University  of  California 

FROM    THK    LIBRARY    OF 

DR.     FRANCIS     L  I  E  H  E  R ,  ' 
Professor  of  History  and  Law  in  Columbia  College,  New  Turk. 


THi:    GIFT   OK 

MICHAEL     REESE 

Of  San  Francisco. 
1  ~  73. 


1 


JOURNAL 


OF  AN 


AFRICAN  CBUISER; 


rOMPRISING    SKETCHES   OF    THE  CANARIES,  THE  CAPE  DE 

VERBS,   LIBERIA,    MADEIRA,   SIERRA    LEONE,   AND 

OTHER  PLACES  OF  INTEREST  ON  THE  WEST 

COAST  OF  AFRICA. 


BY  AN  OFFICER  OF  THE  U.  S.  NAVY. 

EDITED    BY 

NATJI  \.\ir.L  HAWTHORNE. 


NEW- YORK  &  LONDON'. 
WILEY    AND    PUTNAM. 

1845. 


DT4-7/ 
B75 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1845,  by 

WILEY  &  PUTNAM, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern  District  of 

New-York. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 
CHAPTER  I. 

Departure— Mother  Carey's  Chickens — The  Gulf  Stream— Rapid  Pro 
gress — The  French  Admiral's  Cook — Nautical  Musicians — The  sick 
Man — The  Burial  at  Sea — Arrival  at  the  Canaries — Santa  Cruz — 
Love  and  Crime — Island  of  Grand  Canary — Troglodytes  near  Las 
Palmas.  ..  .  .*  .  .  ...  .  .  1 

CHAPTER  II 

Nelson's  Defeat  at  Santa  Cruz— The  Mantilla — Arrival  at  Porto  Grande 
— Poverty  of  the  Inhabitants — Portuguese  Exiles  at  the   Cape  de 
Verds — City  of  Porto  Praya — Author's  Submersion — Green  Turtle         8 
— Rainy  Season — Anchor  at  Cape  Mesurado.  .        .        . 

CHAPTER  III. 

Visit  of  Governor  Roberts,  &c. — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — American 
Missionaries — Prosperity  of  the  Catholic  Mission — King  Freeman, 
and  his  Royal  Robe — Customs  of  the  Kroo-People — Condition  of 
Native  Women 14 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Return  to  Monrovia— Sail  for  Porto  Praya— The  Union  Hotel — Remi 
niscences  of  Famine  at  the  Cape  de  Verds — Frolics  of  Whalemen 
— Visit  to  the  Island  of  Antonio — A  Dance — Fertility  of  the  Island 
— A  Yankee  Clockmaker— A  Mountain  Ride — City  of  Poverson — 
Point  de  Sol — Kindness  of  the  Women— The  handsome  Command 
ant—A  Portuguese  Dinner 20 

CHAPTER  V. 

Arrival  of  the  Macedonian — Return  to  the  Coast  of  Africa — Emigrants 
to  Liberia — Tornadoes — Maryland  in  Liberia— Nature  of  its  Gov 
ernment—Perils  of  the  Bar— Mr.  Russwurm — The  Grebo  Tribe — 
Manner  of  disposing  of  their  Dead. 33 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Settlement  of  Since— Account  of  a  Murder  by  the  Natives — Arrival 
at  Monrovia— Appearance  of  the  Town— Temperance— Law-Suits 
and  Pleadings — Expedition  up  the  St.  Paul's  River — Remarks  on 
the  Cultivation  of  Sugar— Prospects  of  the  Coffee-culture  in  Libe 
ria—Desultory  observations  on  Agriculture.  .  .  39 

CHAPTER  VII. 

High  Character  of  Governor  Roberts— Suspected  Slaver— Dinner  on 
Shore — Facts  and  Remarks  relative  to  the  Slave-Trade — British 
Philanthropy — Original  cost  of  a  Slave — Anchor  at  Sinoe — Peculi 
arities  and  distinctive  Characteristics  of  the  Fishmen  and  Bushmen 
— The  King  of  Appollonia — Religion  and  Morality  among  the  Na 
tives — Influence  of  the  Women.  .  .  .  .  .  .;  .  49 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Palaver  at  Sinoe — Ejectment  of  a  Horde  of  Fishmen — Palaver  at 
Settra  Kroo — Mrs.  Sawyer — Objections  to  the  Marriage  of  Mission 
aries — A  Centipede — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — Rescue  of  the  Sassy- 
wood  drinker — Hostilities  between  the  Natives  and  Colonists.  .  61 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Palaver  with  King  Freeman — Remarks  on  the  Influence  of  Missiona 
ries — Palaver  at  Rock-Boukir — Narrative  of  Captain  Farwell's 
murder — Scene  of  Embarkation  through  the  Surf — Sail  for  Little 
Berebee 71 

CHAPTER  X. 

Palaver  at  Little  Berebee — Death  of  the  Interpreter  and  King  Ben 
Cracko  and  burning  of  the  Town — Battle  with  the  Natives,  and 
Conflagration  of  several  Towns — Turkey  Buzzards — A  Love-Letter 
—Moral  Reflections — Treaty  of  Grand  Berebee — Prince  Jumbo  and 
his  Father— Native  system  of  Expresses— Curiosity  of  the  Natives.  78 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Madeira — Aspect  of  the  Island — Annual  races — "  Kail  Columbia  !" — 
Ladies,  Cavaliers,  and  Peasants — Dissertation  upon  Wines — The 
Clerks  of  Funchal—  Decay  of  the  Wine-Trade — Cultivation  of  Pine- 
Trees — A  Night  in  the  Streets — Beautiful  Church — A  Sunday-even 
ing  Party — Currency  of  Madeira. 87 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Passage  back  to  Liberia— Coffee  Plantations— Dinner  on  shore— Char 
acter  of  Colonel  Hicks— Shells  and  Sentiment— Visit  to  the  Coun- 


CONTENTS.  rii 


cil-chamber — The  New-Georgia  Representative — A  Slave-ship — 
Expedition  up  the  St.  Paul's — Sugar  Manufactory — Maumee's  beau 
tiful  grand-daughter— The  Sleepy  Disease— The  Mangrove-tree.  .  95 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Theatre— Tribute  to  Governor  Buchanan— Arrival  at  Settra  Kroo 
—Jack  Purser — The  Mission  School — Cleanliness  of  the  Natives — 
Uses  of  the  Palm-tree — Native  Money — Mrs.  Sawyer — Influence  of 
her  character  on  the  Natives— Characteristics  of  English  Merchant- 
Captains—Trade  of  England  with  the  African  Coast.  .  .  .103 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

American  Trade— Mode  of  Advertising,  and  of  making  Sales — Stand 
ard  of  Commercial  Integrity — Dealings  with  Slave-Traders — Trade 
with  the  Natives — King's  "  Dash  " — Native  Commission-Merchants 
—The  Gold  Trade— The  Ivory  Trade— The  "  Round  Trade  "—Re 
spectability  of  American  Merchant-Captains—Trade  with  the  Amer 
ican  Squadron.  ,  .  :  .  .  • 110 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Jack  Purser's  wife — Fever  on  board — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — 
Strange  figure  and  equipage  of  a  Missionary — King  George  of  Grand 
Bassam— Intercourse  with  the  Natives— Tahon— Grand  Drevvin— 
St.  Andrew's— Picaninny  Lahoo — Natives  attacked  by  the  French — 
Visit  to  King  Peter— Sketches  of  Scenery  and  People  at  Cape  Lahon.  116 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Visit  from  two  English  Trading-Captains— The  invisible  King  of  Jack- 
a-Jack — Human  sacrifices — French  fortresses  at  Grand  Bassam,  at 
Assinoe,  and  other  points — Objections  to  the  locality  of  Liberia — 
Encroachments  on  the  limits  of  that  Colony — Arrival  in  Axim — 
Sketches  of  that  Settlement— Dixcove— Civilized  Natives. — An  Al 
ligator.  .  .........  126 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Dutch  Settlement  at  El  Mina — Appearance  of  the  Town — Cape  Coast 
Castle — Burial-place  of  L.  E.  L. — An  English  dinner — Festivity  on 
shipboard — British,  Dutch,  and  Danish  Accra — Native  wives  of 
Europeans— A  Royal  Princess— An  Armadillo — Sail  for  St.  Thomas 
—Aspect  of  the  Island.  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .136 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Excursion  to  St.  Anne  de  Chaves— Mode  of  drying  Coffee — Black 
Priests — Madam  Domingo's  Hotel— Catering  for  the  Mess— Man 


CONTENTS. 


swallowed  by  a  Shark— Letters  from  home— Fashionable  equipage 
—Arrival  at  the  Gaboon— King  Glass  and  Louis  Philippe— Mr. 
Griswold— Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wilson— Character  of  the  Gaboon  People 
—Symptoms  of  illness.  .  .  .  .  •  »  •  .145 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Recovery  from  Fever — Projected  Independence  of  Liberia — Remarks 
on  Climate  and  Health — Peril  from  Breakers — African  Arts — De 
parture  for  the  Cape  de  Verds — Man  Overboard.  .  153 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Glimpses  of  the  bottom  of  the  Sea — The  Gar-fish — The  Booby  and 
the  Mullet— Improvement  of  Liberia— Its  prospects— Higher  social 
position  of  its  Inhabitants — Intercourse  between  the  White  and  Col 
ored  Races — A  night  on  shore — Farewell  to  Liberia — Reminiscence 
of  Robinson  Crusoe.  .  . 161 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Sierra  Leone — Sources  of  its  Population — Appearance  of  the  Town  and 
surrounding  Country — Religious  Ceremonies  of  the  Mandingoes — 
Treatment  of  liberated  Slaves — Police  of  Sierra  Leone — Agencies 
for  Emigration  to  the  West  Indies — Colored  Refugees  from  the 
United  States — Unhealthiness  of  Sierra  Leone — Dr.  Fergusson — 
Splendid  Church — Melancholy  Fate  of  a  Queen's  Chaplain — Cur 
rency — Probable  Ruin  of  the  Colony.  .  .  .  168 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Failure  of  the  American  Squadron  to  capture  Slave-Vessels — Causes 
of  that  Failure — High  character  of  the  Commodore  and  Command 
ers — Similar  ill-success  of  the  French  Squadron — Success  of  the 
English,  and  why — Results  effected  bv  the  American  Squadron.  .  1?'. 


PREFACE. 


THE  following  pages  have  afforded  occupation  for  many 
hours,  which  might  else  have  been  wasted  in  idle  amuse 
ments,  or  embittered  by  still  idler  regrets  at  the  destiny 
which  carried  the  writer  to  a  region  so  little  seductive  as 
Africa,  and  kept  him  there  so  long.  He  now  offers  them 
to  the  public,  after  some  labor  bestowed  in  correction  and 
amendment,  but  retaining  their  original  form,  that  of  a  daily 
Journal,  which  better  suited  his  lack  of  literary  practice 
and  constructive  skill,  and  was  in  fitter  keeping  with  the 
humble  pretensions  of  the  work,  than  a  re-arrangement  on 
artistic  principles.  At  various  points  of  the  narrative, 
however,  he  has  introduced  observations  or  disquisitions 
from  two  or  three  common-place  books,  which  he  kept 
simultaneously  with  the  Journal ;  and  thus,  in  a  few  in 
stances,  remarks  are  inserted  as  having  been  made  early  in 
the  cruise,  while,  in  reality,  they  were  perhaps  the  ultimate- 
result  of  his  reflection  and  judgment  upon  the  topics  dis 
cussed. 

If,  in  any  portion  of  the  book,  the  author  may  hope  to 
engage  the  attention  of  the  public,  it  will  probably  be  in 
those  pages  which  treat  of  Liberia.  The  value  of  his  evi 
dence,  as  to  the  condition  and  prospects  of  that  colony, 
must  depend,  not  upon  any  singular  acuteness  of  observa 
tion  or  depth  of  reflection,  but  upon  his  freedom  from  par- 
tizan  bias,  and  his  consequent  ability  to  perceive  a  certain 
degree  of  truth,  and  inclination  to  express  it  frankly.  A 
northern  man,  but  not  unacquainted  with  the  slave  institu- 


VI  PREFACE. 

tions  of  our  own  and  other  countries — neither  an  Aboli 
tionist  nor  a  Colonizationist — without  prejudice,  as  without 
prepossession — he  felt  himself  thus  far  qualified  to  examine 
the  great  enterprise  which  he  beheld  in  progress.  He  en 
joyed,  moreover,  the  advantage  of  comparing  Liberia,  as 
he  now  saw  it,  with  a  personal  observation  of  its  condition 
three  years  before,  and  could  therefore  mark  its  onward  or 
retreating  footsteps,  and  the  better  judge  what  was  perma 
nent,  and  what  merely  temporary  or  accidental.  With 
these  qualifications,  he  may  at  least  hope  to  have  spoken  so 
much  of  truth  as  entirely  to  gratify  neither  the  friends  nor 
enemies  of  this  interesting  colony. 

The  West  Coast  of  Africa  is  a  fresher  field  for  the  scrib 
bling  tourist,  than  most  other  parts  of  the  world.  Few 
visit  it,  unless  driven  by  stern  necessity ;  and  still  fewer  are 
disposed  to  struggle  against  the  enervating  influence  of  the 
climate,  and  keep  up  even  so  much  of  intellectual  activity 
as  may  suffice  to  fill  a  diurnal  page  of  Journal  or  Common 
place  Book.  In  his  descriptions  of  the  settlements  of  the 
various  nations  of  Europe,  along  that  coast,  and  of  the 
native  tribes,  and  their  trade  and  intercourse  with  the 
whites,  the  writer  indulges  the  idea  that  he  may  add  a 
trifle  to  the  general  information  of  the  public.  He  puts 
forth  his  work,  however,  with  no  higher  claims  than  as  a 
collection  of  desultory  sketches,  in  which  he  felt  himself 
nowise  bound  to  tell  all  that  it  might  be  desirable  to  know, 
but  only  to  be  accurate  in  what  he  does  tell.  On  such 
terms,  there  is  perhaps  no  very  reprehensible  audacity  in 
undertaking  the  history  of  a  voyage  ;  and  he  smiles  to  find 
himself,  so  simply  and  with  so  little  labor,  acquiring  a  title 
to  be  enrolled  among  the  authors  of  books  ! 

APRIL  5,  1845. 


JOURNAL 


OF  AN 


AFRICAN   CRUISER. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure — Mother  Carey's  Chickens — The  Gulf  stream — Rapid  Pro 
gress — The  French  Admiral's  Cook — Nautical  Musicians — The  Sick 
Man — The  Burial  at  Sea — Arrival  at  the  Canaries — Santa  Cruz — Love 
and  Crime — Island  of  Grand  Canary — Troglodytes  near  Las  Palmas. 

June  5, 1843. — TOWED  by  the  steamer  Hercules,  we  go  down 
the  harbor  of  New  York,  at  7  o'clock  A.  M.  It  is  the  fourth  time 
the  ship  has  moved,  since  she  was  launched  from  the  Navy  Yard 
at  Portsmouth.  Her  first  experience  of  the  ocean  was  a  rough 
one  ;  she  was  caught  in  a  wintry  gale  from  the  north-east,  dis 
masted,  and  towed  back  into  Portsmouth  harbor,  within  three 
days  after  her  departure.  The  second  move  brought  us  to  New 
York  ;  the  third,  from  the  Navy  Yard  into  the  North  river  ;  and 
the  fourth  will  probably  bring  us  to  an  anchorage  off  Sandy 
Hook.  After  a  hard  winter  of  four  months,  in  New  Hampshire, 
we  go  to  broil  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  with  ice  enough  in  our 
blood  to  keep  us  comfortably  cool  for  six  months  at  least. 

At  10  A.  M.  the  steamer  cast  off,  and  we  anchored  inside  of 
Sandy  Hook ;  at  12  Meridian,  hoisted  the  broad  pennant  of 
Commodore  Perry,  and  saluted  it  with  thirteen  guns.  At  3 
P.  M.  the  ship  gets  under  way,  and  with  a  good  breeze,  stands 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  i 


out  to  sea.  Our  parting  letters  are  confided  to  the  Pilot.  That 
weather-beaten  veteran  gives  you  a  cordial  shake  with  his  broad, 
hard  hand,  wishes  you  a  prosperous  cruise,  and  goes  over  the 
side.  His  life  is  full  of  greetings  and  farewells ;  the  grasp  of 
his  hand  assures  the  returning  mariner  that  his  weary  voyage 
is  over;  and  when  the  swift  pilot  boat  hauls  her  wind,  and 
leaves  you  to  go  on  your  course  alone,  you  feel  that  the  last 
connecting  link  with  home  is  broken.  On  our  ship's  deck,  there 
were  perhaps  some  heart-aches,  but  no  whimpering.  Few  strain 
their  eyes  to  catch  parting  glimpses  of  the  receding  highlands ; 
it  is  only  the  green  ones  who  do  that.  The  Old  Salt  seeks  more 
substantial  solace  in  his  dinner.  It  is  matter  of  speculation, 
moreover,  whether  much  of  the  misery  of  parting  does  not,  with 
those  unaccustomed  to  the  sea,  originate  in  the  disturbed  state  of 
their  stomachs. 

7. — We  are  in  the  Gulf-stream.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  is  ten  degrees  above  that  of  the  air.  Though  the 
ship  is  deep,  being  filled  with  stores,  and  therefore  sailing 
heavily,  we  are  yet  taken  along  eleven  knots  by  the  wind, 
and  two  or  three  more  by  the  current.  Swiftly  as  we  fly, 
however,  we  are  not  quite  alone  upon  the  waters.  Mother 
Carey's  chickens  follow  us  continually,  dipping  into  the  white 
foam  of  our  track,  to  seize  the  food  which  our  keel  turns  up 
for  them  out  of  the  ocean  depths.  Mysterious  is  the  way  of 
this  little  wanderer  over  the  sea.  It  is  never  seen  on  land  ;  and 
naturalists  have  yet  to  discover  where  it  reposes,  and  where  it 
hatches  its  young ;  unless  we  adopt  the  idea  of  the  poets,  that  it 
builds  its  nest  upon  the  turbulent  bosom  of  the  deep.  It  is  a 
sort  of  nautical  sister  of  the  fabled  bird  of  Paradise,  which  was 
footless,  and  never  alighted  out  of  the  air.  Hundreds  of  miles 
from  shore,  in  sunshine  and  in  tempest,  you  may  see  the  Stormy 
Petrel.  Among  the  unsolvable  riddles  which  nature  propounds 
to  mankind,  we  may  reckon  the  question,  Who  is  Mother  Carey, 
and  where  does  she  rear  her  chickens  ? 

9. — We  are  out  of  the  Gulf-stream,  and  the  ship  is  now 
rolling  somewhat  less  tumultuously  than  heretofore.  For  four 
days,  we  have  been  blest  with  almost  too  fair  a  wind.  A  strong 
breeze,  right  aft,  has  been  taking  us  more  than  two  hundred 


CHAP,  i.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER 


and  forty  miles  a  day  on  our  course.  But  the  incessant  and  un 
easy  motion  of  the  ship  deprives  us  of  any  steady  comfort.  In 
spite  of  all  precautions,  tables,  chairs,  and  books,  have  tumbled 
about  in  utter  confusion,  and  the  monotony  is  enlivened  by  the 
breaking  of  bottles  and  crash  of  crockery.  As  some  consola 
tion,  our  Log  Book  shows  that  we  have  made  more  than  half 
of  a  thousand  miles,  within  the  last  forty-eight  hours.  Land 
travelling,  with  all  the  advantages  of  railroads,  can  hardly  com 
pete  with  the  continual  diligence  of  a  ship  before  a  prosperous 
breeze. 

11. — Spoke  an  American  brig  from  Liverpool,  bound  for  New 
York.  Though  the  boat  was  called  away,  and  our  letters  were 
ready,  it  was  all  at  once  determined  not  to  board  her;  and,  af 
ter  asking  the  captain  to  report  us,  we  stood  on  our  course  again. 
The  newspapers  will  tell  our  friends  something  of  our  wherea 
bouts  ;  or,  at  least,  that  on  a  certain  day,  we  were  encountered 
at  a  certain  point  upon  the  sea. 

13. — Wind  still  fair,  and  weather  always  fine.  We  have 
not  tacked  ship  once  since  leaving  Sandy  Hook,  and  are  almost 
ready  to  quarrel  with  the  continual  fair  wind.  There  is  nothing 
else  to  find  fault  with,  except  the  performances  of  our  French 
cook  in  the  wardroom,  who  came  on  board  just  before  we  left 
New  York,  and  made  us  believe  that  we  had  obtained  a  trea 
sure.  He  told  us  that  he  had  cooked  for  a  French  Admiral. 
We  swore  him  to  secrecy  on  that  point,  lest  the  Commodore 
should  be  disposed  to  engage  the  services  of  so  distinguished  an 
artist  for  his  own  table.  But  our  self-congratulations  were  not 

O 

of  long  continuance.  The  sugared  omelet  passed  with  slight  re 
mark.  The  beefsteak  smothered  in  onions  was  merely  prohibit 
ed  in  future.  But  when,  on  the  second  day,  the  potatoes  were 
served  with  mashed  lemon-peel,  the  general  discontent  burst 
forth ;  and  we  scolded  till  we  laughed  again  at  the  dilemma  in 
which  we  found  ourselves.  Next  to  being  without  food,  is  the 
calamity  of  being  subjected,  in  the  middle  of  the  Atlantic,  to 
the  diabolical  arts  of  the  French  Admiral's  cook.  At  sea,  the 
arrangements  of  the  table  are  of  far  more  importance  than  on 
shore.  There  are  so  few  incidents,  that  one's  dinner  becomes. 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP. 


what  Dr.  Johnson  affirmed  it  always  to  be,  the  affair  of  which  a 
man  thinks  oftenest  in  the  course  of  the  day. 

16. — All  day,  the  wind  has  been  ahead,  and  very  light.  This 
evening,  a  dead  calm  is  upon  the  sea ;  but  the  sky  is  cloudless, 
and  the  air  pure  and  soft.  All  the  well  are  enjoying  the  fine 
weather.  The  commodore  and  captain  walk  the  poop-deck; 
the  other  officers,  except  the  lieutenant  and  young  gentlemen  of 
the  watch,  are  smoking  on  the  forecastle,  or  promenading  the 
quarter-deck.  A  dozen  steady  old  salts  are  rolling  along  the 
gangways;  and  the  men  are  clustered  in  knots  between  the 
guns,  talking,  laughing,  or  listening  to  the  yarns  of  their  com 
rades — an  amusement  to  which  sailors  are  as  much  addicted  as 
the  Sultan  in  the  Arabian  Nights.  But  music  is  the  order  of 
the  evening.  Though  a  band  is  not  allowed  to  a  ship  of  our 
class,  there  are  always  good  musicians  to  be  found  among  the 
reckless  and  jolly  fellows  composing  a  man-of-war's  crew.  A  big 
landsman  from  Utica,  and  a  dare-devil  topman  from  Cape  Cod, 
are  the  leading  vocalists ;  Symmes,  the  ship's  cook,  plays  an 
excellent  violin ;  and  the  commodore's  steward  is  not  to  be  sur 
passed  upon  the  tambourine.  A  little  black  fellow,  whose  sob 
riquet  is  Othello,  manages  the  castanets,,  and  there  is  a  tolera 
ble  flute  played  by  one  of  the  afterguard.  The  concerts  usually 
commence  with  sentimental  songs,  such  as  "Home,  sweet  Home," 
and  the  Canadian  Boat  Song  :  but  the  comic  always  carries  off 
the  palm;  "Jim  along  Josey,"  "Lucy  Long,"  "Old  Dan 
Tucker,"  and  a  hundred  others  of  the  same  character,  are  lis 
tened  to  delightedly  by  the  crowd  of  men  and  boys  collected 
round  the  fore-hatch,  and  always  ready  to  join  in  the  cho 
ruses.  Thus  a  sound  of  mirth  floats  far  and  wide  over  the 
twilight  sea,  and  would  seem  to  indicate  that  all  goes  well 
among  us. 

But  the  delicious  atmosphere,  and  the  amusements  of  the  ship, 
bring  not  joy  to  all  on  board.  There  are  sick  men  swinging 
uneasily  in  their  hammocks ;  and  one  poor  fellow,  whose  fever 
threatens  to  terminate  fatally,  tosses  painfully  in  his  cot.  His 
messmates  gently  bathe  his  hot  brow,  and,  watching  every  move 
ment,  nurse  him  as  tenderly  as  a  woman.  Strange,  that  the 
rude  heart  of  a  sailor  should  be  found  to  possess  such  tenderness 


CHAP,  i.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


as  we  seldom  ask  or  find,  in  those  of  our  own  sex,  on  land ! 
There,  we  leave  the  gentler  humanities  of  life  to  woman  ;  here, 
we  are  compelled  to  imitate  her  characteristics,  as  well  as  our 
sterner  nature  will  permit. 

22. — The  sick  man  died  last  night,  and  was  buried  to-day. 
His  history  was  revealed  to  no  one.  Where  was  his  home,  or 
whether  he  has  left  friends  to  mourn  his  death,  are  alike  un 
known.  Dying,  he  kept  his  own  counsel,  and  was  content  to 
vanish  out  of  life,  even  as  a  speck  of  foam  melts  back  into 
the  ocean.  At  11  A.  M.,  for  the  first  time,  in  a  cruise  likely  to 
be  fatal  to  many  on  board,  the  boatswain  piped  "all  hands  to 
bury  the  dead!"  The  sailor's  corpse,  covered  with  the  union 
of  his  country's  flag,  was  placed  in  the  gangway.  Two  hun 
dred  and  fifty  officers  and  men  stood  around,  uncovered,  and 
reverently  listened  to  the  beautiful  and  solemn  burial  service,  as 
it  was  read  by  one  of  the  officers.  The  body  was  committed  to 
the  deep,  while  the  ship  dashed  onward,  and  had  left  the  grave 
far  behind,  even  before  the  last  words  of  the  service  were  ut 
tered.  The  boatswain  "  piped  down,"  and  all  returned  to  their 
duties  sadly,  and  with  thoughtful  countenances. 

23. — At  4  A.  M.,  the  island  of  Palma  and  the  Peak  of  Tene- 
riffe  are  in  full  sight,  though  the  lofty  summit  of  the  mountain 
is  one  hundred  miles  distant. 

24. — At  5  A.  M.,  anchored  at  Santa  Cruz,  capital  of  the 
island  of  TenerifFe.  The  health-officer  informed  us  that  we 
must  ride  out  a  quarantine  of  eight  days.  A  fine  precaution, 
considering  that  we  are  direct  from  New  York !  After  break 
fast,  I  went  to  the  mole,  to  see  the  Consular  Agent,  on  duty. 
While  waiting  in  our  boat,  we  were  stared  at  by  thirty  or  forty 
loafers  (a  Yankee  phrase,  but  strictly  applicable  to  these  foreign 
vagabonds),  of  the  most  wretched  kind.  Some  were  dressed  in 
coarse  shirts  and  trowsers,  and  some  had  only  one  of  these  habili 
ments.  None  interested  me,  except  a  dirty,  swarthy  boy,  with 
most  brilliant  black  eyes,  who  lay  flat  on  his  stomach,  and 
gazed  at  us  in  silence.  His  elf-like  glance  sparkles  brightly  in 
my  memory. 

One  of  the  seamen  in  our  boat  spoke  to  the  persons  on  shore 
in  Spanish.  I  inquired  whether  that  were  his  mother-tongue, 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  r. 


and  learned  that  he  was  a  native  of  Mahon.  On  questioning 
him  further,  I  ascertained  that  he  was  concerned  in  a  tragedy 
of  which  I  had  often  heard,  while  on  the  Mediterranean  station, 
two  or  three  years  ago.  A  beautiful  girl  of  sixteen,  of  highly 
respectable  family,  fell  in  love  with  a  young  man,  her  inferior 
in  social  rank,  though  of  reputable  standing.  The  affair  was 
kept  secret  between  them.  At  length,  the  lover  became  jealous, 
and,  one  evening,  called  his  mistress  out  of  her  father's  house, 
and  stabbed  her  five  or  six  times.  She  died  instantly,  and  her 
murderer  fled.  It  was  believed  in  Mahon  that  he  was  drowned 
by  falling  overboard  from  the  vessel  in  which  he  escaped. 
Nevertheless,  that  murderer  was  the  man  with  whom  I  was 
speaking  in  the  boat,  now  bearing  another  name,  and  a  common 
sailor  of  our  ship.  He  told  me  his  real  name ;  and  I  heard, 
afterwards,  that,  when  drunk,  he  had  confessed  the  murder  to 
one  of  his  messmates. 

This  incident  illustrates  what  I  have  often  thought,  that  the 
private  history  of  a  man-of-war's  crew,  if  truly  told,  Would  be 
full  of  high  romance,  varied  with  stirring  incident,  and  too  often 
darkened  with  deep  and  deadly  crime.  Many  go  to  sea  with 
the  old  Robinson  Crusoe  spirit,  seeking  adventure  for  its  own 
sake  ;  many,  to  escape  the  punishment  of  guilt,  which  has  made 
them  outlaws  of  the  land  ;  some,  to  drown  the  memory  of 
slighted  love  ;  while  others  flee  from  the  wreck  of  their  broken 
fortunes  ashore,  to  hazard  another  shipwreck  on  the  deep.  The 
jacket  of  the  common  sailor  often  covers  a  figure  that  has 
walked  Broadway  in  a  fashionable  coat.  An  officer  sometimes 
sees  his  old  school-fellow  and  playmate  taken  to  the  gangway 
and  flogged.  Many  a  blackguard  on  board  has  been  bred  in 
luxury ;  and  many  a  good  seaman  has  been  a  slaver  and  a 
pirate.  It  is  well  for  the  ship's  company,  that  the  sins  of  indi 
viduals  do  not,  as  in  the  days 'of  Jonas,  stir  up  tempests  that 
threaten  the  destruction  of  the  whole. 

The  island  of  Grand  Canary  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 
of  the  group  at  which  we  have  now  arrived.  The  population 
of  its  capital,  the  city  of  Las  Palmas,  is  variously  estimated  at 
from  nine  thousand  inhabitants,  to  twice  that  number.  The 
streets,  however,  have  none  of  the  bustle  and  animation  that 


CHAP,  i.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


would  enliven  an  American  town,  of  similar  size.  Around  the 
city  there  is  an  aspect  of  great  fertility  ;  fields  of  corn  and 
grain,  palm-trees,  and  vineyards,  occupy  the  valleys  among  tli<' 
hills,  and  extrud  along  the  shores,  twining  a  glad  green  wreath 
about  the  circuit  of  the  island.  The  vines  of  Canary  produce 
a  wine  which,  two  or  three  centuries  ago,  was  held  in  higher 
estimation  than  at  present,  and  is  supposed  by  some  to  have  been 
the  veritable  "sack"  that  so  continually  moistened  the  throat  of 
FalstafF.  The  very  name  of  Canary  is  a  cheerful  one,  asso 
ciated  as  it  is  witli^the  idea  of  bounteous  vineyards,  and  of  those 
little  golden  birds  that  make  music  all  over  the  world. 

The  high  hills  that  surround  the  city  of  Las  Palrnas  are  com 
posed  of  soft  stone,  the  yielding  quality  of  which  has  caused 
these  cliffs  to  be  converted  to  a  very  singular  purpose.  The 
poorer  people,  who  can  find  no  shelter  above  ground,  burrow  into 
the  sides  of  the  hill,  and  thus  form  caves  for  permanent  habita 
tion,  where  they  dwell  like  swallows  in  a  sand-bank.  Judging 
from  the  number  of  these  excavations,  the  mouths  of  which 
appear  on  the  hill-sides,  there  cannot  be  less  than  a  thousand 
persons  living  in  the  manner  here  described.  Not  only  the 
destitute  inhabitants  of  Grand  Canary,  but  vagabonds  from 
Teneriffe  and  the  other  islands,  creep  thus  into  the  heart  of  the 
rock ;  and  children  play  about  the  entrances  of  the  caverns  as 
merrily  as  at  a  cottage-door  :  while,  in  the  gloom  of  the  interior, 
you  catch  a  glimpse  of  household  furniture,  and  women  engaged 
in  domestic  avocations.  It  is  like  discovering  a  world  within 
the  world. 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  11 


CHAPTER  II. 

Nelson's  defeat  at  Santa  Cruz — The  Mantilla — Arrival  at  Porto  Grande — 
Poverty  of  the  inhabitants — Portuguese  Exiles  at  the  Cape  de  Verds — 
City  of  Porto  Prayo — Author's  submersion — Green  Turtle — Rainy  Season 
— Anchor  at  Cape  Mesurado. 

July  1. — ASHORE  at  Santa  Cruz.  The  population  of  the  city 
is  reckoned  at  six  or  eight  thousand.  The  streets  are  clean,  and 
the  houses  built  in  the  Spanish  fashion.  Camels  are  frequent  in 
the  streets. 

The  landing  at  the  Mole  is  generally  bad,  as  Nelson  found  to 
his  cost.  It  is  easy  to  perceive  that,  even  in  ordinary  times,  the 
landing  of  a  large  party,  though  unopposed,  must  be  a  work  of 
considerable  difficulty.  How  much  more  arduous,  then,  was  the 
enterprise  of  the  great  Naval  Plero,  who  made  his  attack  in 
darkness,  and  in  the  face  of  a  well-manned  battery,  which  swept 
away  all  who  gained  foot-hold  on  the  shore  !  The  latter  obstacle 
might  have  been  overcome  by  English  valor,  under  Nelson's 
guidance  ;  but  night,  and  the  heavy  surf,  were  the  enemies  that 
gave  him  his  first  and  only  defeat.  The  little  fort,  under  whose 
guns  he  was  carried  by  his  step-son,  after  the  loss  of  his  arm, 
derived  its  chief  interest,  in  my  eyes,  from  that  circumstance. 
The  glory  of  the  great  Admiral  sheds  a  lustre  even  upon  the  spot 
where  success  deserted  him.  In  the  Cathedral  of  Santa  Cruz 
are  to  be  seen  two  English  flags,  which  were  taken  on  that  oc 
casion,  and  are  still  pointed  out  with  pride  by  the  inhabitants. 
I  saw  them  five  years  ago,  when  they  hung  from  the  walls,  tat 
tered  and  covered  with  dust ;  they  are  now  enclosed  in  glass 
cases,  to  which  the  stranger's  attention  is  eagerly  directed  by  the 
boys  who  swarm  around  him.  The  defeat  of  Nelson  took  place 
on  the  anniversary  of  the  patron-saint  of  Santa  Cruz  ;  a  coin- 
cidence  which  has  added  not  a  little  to  the  saint's  reputation.  It 
was  by  no  means  his  first  warlike  exploit ;  for  he  is  said  to  have 


CHAP,  ii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


come  to  the  assistance  of  the  inhabitants,  and  routed  the  Moors, 
when  pressing  the  city  hard,  in  the  olden  time. 

We  wandered  about  the  city  until  evening,  and  then  walked 
in  the  Plaza.  Here  the  ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  city  pro 
menade  for  an  hour  or  two,  occasionally  seating  themselves  on 
the  stone-benches  which  skirt  the  square.  Like  other  Spanish 
ladies,  the  lovely  brunettes  of  Santa  Cruz  generally  wear  the 
mantilla,  so  much  more  becoming  than  the  bonnet.  There  are 
just  enough  of  bonnets  worn  by  foreigners,  and  travelled  Spanish 
dames,  to  show  what  deformities  they  are,  when  contrasted  with 
the  graceful  veil.  This  head-dress  could  only  be  used  in  a  cli 
mate  like  that  of  TenerifFe,  where  there  are  no  extremes  of  heat 
or  cold.  It  is  a  proverb  that  there  is  no  winter  and  no  summer 
here.  So  equable  and  moderate  is  the  temperature,  that,  we  were 
assured,  a  person  might,  without  inconvenience,  wear  either  thick 
or  thin  clothing,  all  the  year  round.  With  such  a  climate,  and 
with  a  fertile  soil,  it  would  seem  that  this  must  be  almost  a  Para- 
disc.  There  is  a  great  obstruction,  however,  to  the  welfare  of 
the  inhabitants,  in  the  want  of  water.  It  rains  so  seldom  that  the 
ground  is  almost  burnt  up,  and  many  cattle  actually  perish  from 
thirst.  It  is  said  that  no  less  than  thirty  thousand  persons  have 
emigrated  from  the  island,  within  three  years. 

The  productions  of  TenerifFe,  for  export,  are  wine  and  barilla. 
Of  the  first,  the  greater  part  is  sent  to  England,  Russia  and  the 
United  States.  About  thirty  thousand  pipes  are  made  annually, 
of  which  two  thirds  are  exported.  Little  or  no  wine  is  produced 
on  the  southern  slope  of  the  island.  The  hills  around  Santa 
Cruz  are  little  more  than  rugged  peaks  of  naked  rock.  The 
scenery  is  wild  and  bold,  but  sterile  ;  and  scattered  around  are 
stupendous  hills  of  lava,  the  products  of  former  volcanic  eruptions, 
but  which  have,  for  ages,  been  cold  and  wave-waited. 

14. — Arrived  at  Porto  Grande,  in  the  island  of  St.  Vincent's, 
one  of  the  Cape  de  Verds.  The  harbor  is  completely  land- 
locked  by  the  island  of  St.  Antonio,  which  stretches  across  its 
mouth.  Still,  there  is,  at  times,  a  considerable  swell.  The 
appearance  of  the  land  is  barren,  desolate,  and  unpromising  in 
the  highest  degree  ;  and  the  town  is  in  keeping  with  the  scenery. 
Eighty  or  ninety  miserable  hovels,  constructed  of  small,  loose 


10  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  n. 

stones,  in  the  manner  of  our  stone-fences,  stand  in  rows,  with 
some  pretence  of  regularity.  Besides  the  Governor  and  his  aid, 
there  are  here  five  white  men,  or  rather  Portuguese  (for  their  claim 
to  white  blood  is  not  apparent  in  their  complexions),  viz.  the  Col 
lector,  the  American  Consular  Agent,  a  shop-keeper,  whose  goods 
are  all  contained  in  a  couple  of  trunks,  and  two  private  soldiers. 
We  called  to  see  the  Governor,  and  were  politely  received  ;  he 
offered  seats,  and  did  the  honors  of  the  place  with  dignity  and 
affability.  His  pay  is  one  dollar  per  diem.  He  has  five  soldiers 
under  his  command,  two  of  them  Portuguese,  and  three  native 
negroes,  one  of  whom  has  a  crooked  leg. 

The  people  here  are  wretchedly  poor,  subsisting  chiefly  by 
fishing,  and  by  their  precarious  gains  from  ships  which  anchor  in 
the  port.  The  Collector  informed  me  that  there  had  been  sixty 
whale-ships  in  the  harbor,  within  the  past  year.  The  profits 
accruing  from  thence,  however,  are  very  inadequate  to  the  comfort 
able  support  of  the  inhabitants.  The  adults  are  mostly  covered 
with  rags,  while  many  of  the  children  are  entirely  naked ;  the 
cats  and  dogs  (whose  condition  may  be  taken  as  no  bad  test  of 
the  degree  of  bodily  comfort  in  the  community)  are  lean  and 
skeleton-like.  As  to  religion,  I  saw  nothing  to  remind  me  of  it, 
except  the  ruins  of  an  old  church.  Tnere  has  been  no  priest 
since  the  death  of  one  who  was  drowned,  a  few  years  ago,  near 
Bird  Island,  a  large  rock,  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor.  At  the 
time  of  this  fatal  mishap,  the  reverend  father  was  on  a  drunken 
frolic,  in  company  with  some  colored  women. 

The  Cape  de  Verd  Islands  derive  their  name  from  the  nearest 
point  of  the  mainland  of  Africa ;  they  are  under  the  dominion 
of  Portugal,  and,  notwithstanding  their  poverty,  furnish  a  con 
siderable  revenue  to  that  country,  over  and  above  the  expenses 
of  the  Colonial  Government.  This  revenue  comes  chiefly  from 
the  duties  levied  upon  all  imported  articles,  and  from  the  orchilla 
trade,  which  is  monopolized  by  the  Government  at  home,  and 
produces  50,000  dollars  per  annum.  Another  source  of  profit  is 
found  in  the  tithes  for  the  support  of  the  Church,  which,,  in  some, 
if  not  all  the  islands,  have  been  seized  by  the  Government  (under 
a  pledge  for  the  maintenance  of  the  clergy),  and  are  farmed  out 
annually.  These  islands  supply  the  Portuguese  with  a  place  of 


CHAP,  ii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  11 

honorable  exile  for  oilier  is  who  may  he  suspected  of  h<  •• 
politics,  and  hostility  to  existing  institutions.  They  are  advanced 
a  step  in  rank,  to  repay  them  (and  a  poor  requital  it  is)  for  the 
change  from  the  delicious  climate  of  Portugal,  and  the  gaieties 
of  Lisbon,  to  the  dreary  solitude,  the  arid  soil,  and  burning  and 
fever-laden  air  of  the  Cape  de  Verds.  It  is  a  melancholy  thought, 
that  many  an  active  intellect — many  a  generous  and  aspiring 
spirit — may  have  been  doomed  to  linger  and  perish  here,  chained, 
as  it  were,  to  the  rocks,  like  Prometheus,  merely  for  having 
dreamed  of  kindling  the  fire  of  liberty  in  their  native  land. 

•J'J. — We  have  spent  some  days  at  Porto  Praya,  the  capital  of 
St.  Jago,  the  largest  of  the  Cape  de  Verd  islands  ;  whence  we 
sail  to-day.  A  large  part  of  the  population  is  composed  of  ne 
groes  and  mulattocs,  whose  appearance  indicates  that  they  are 
intemperate,  dissolute,  and  vile.  The  Portuguese  residing  here 
are  generally  but  little  better  ;  as  may  be  supposed  from  the 
fact,  that  most  of  those  who  were  not  banished  from  Portugal, 
for  political  or  other  offences,  came  originally  to  engage  in  the 
slave-trade. 

Going  ashore  to-day,  we  beached  the  boat,  and  a  large  negro, 
with  a  ragged  red  shirt,  waded  out  and  took  me  on  his  shoulders. 
There  is  no  position  so  absurd,  nor  in  which  a  man  feels  himself 
so  utterly  helpless,  as  when  thus  dependant  on  the  strength  and 
sure-footedness  of  a  fellow-biped.  As  we  left  the  boat,  a  heavy 
"  roller"  came  in.  The  negro  lost  his  footing,  and  I  my  bal 
ance,  and  down  we  plunged  into  the  surf.  My  sable  friend 
seemed  to  consider  it  a  point  of  duty  to  hold  stoutly  by  my  legs, 
the  inevitable  tendency  of  which  manoeuvre  was  to  keep  my 
head  under  water.  Having  no  taste  for  a  watery  death,  under 
these  peculiar  circumstances,  I  freed  myself  by  a  vigorous  kick, 
sprang  to  my  feet,  and  seizing  the  negro  by  the  "  ambrosial 
curls,"  pushed  his  head  in  turn  under  the  surf.  But  seeing  the 
midshipmen  and  boat's  crew  laughing,  noiselessly  but  heartily, 
at  my  expense,  the  ludicrousness  of  the  whole  affair  struck  me 
so  forcibly  that  I  joined  in  their  mirth,  and  waded  ashore  as  fast 
as  possible.  An  abolitionist,  perhaps,  might  draw  a  moral  from 
the  story,  and  say  that  all,  who  ride  on  the  shoulders  of  the  Afri 
can  race,  deserve  nothing  better  than  a  similar  overthrow. 


12  JOURNAL  OF  AN       •  [CHAP.  n. 

Sailed  from  Porto  Praya.  The  bay  of  this  port  is  a  good 
one,  except  in  south-east  gales,  when  the  anchorage  is  danger 
ous.  The  town,  called  Villa  de  Praya,  contains  about  two 
thousand  inhabitants  of  every  shade,  the  dark  greatly  predomi 
nating.  Many  vessels  from  Europe  and  the  United  States,  bound 
to  India,  Brazil,  or  Africa,  find  this  a  convenient  place  to  pro 
cure  water  and  fresh  provisions,  and  bring,  in  return,  much 
money  into  the  city.  There  are  three  hundred  troops  here, 
nearly  all  black,  and  commanded  by  forty  Portuguese  officers. 
The  men  are  under  severe  discipline,  are  tolerably  well  dressed, 
and  make  a  soldierly  appearance.  It  is  said  that  a  St.  Jago 
soldier  formerly  wore  only  a  cocked  hat,  being  otherwise  in  a 
state  of  nature  ;  but  I  cannot  pretend  to  have  seen  any  instance 
of  this  extreme  scantiness  of  equipment. 

23. — Saw  a  large  green  turtle  asleep  on  the  surface  of  the 
water.  One  of  our  boats  went  alongside  of  him,  and  two  men 
attempted  to  turn  him  over  with  boat-hooks.  He  struggled  suc 
cessfully,  however,  to  keep  himself  "  right  side  up,"  and,  in  a 
few  moments,  plunged  beneath  the  surface.  Once  upon  his 
back,  he  would  have  been  powerless  and  a  prisoner,  and  we 
might  have  hoped  for  the  advantage  of  his  presence  at  our  mess- 
table. 

24. — At  noon,  the  first  rain  came.  It  continued  heavy  and 
unremitting  for  twenty-four  hours,  after  which  there  was  a 
glimpse  of  the  blue  sky.  Two  startling  thunder-claps  burst  over 
the  ship,  at  about  9  o'clock,  A.  M.  Last  night,  at  10,  a  heavy 
plunge  carried  away  both  our  chain  bobstays  at  once,  and  all 
hands  were  turned  up  in  the  rain,  to  secure  the  bowsprit. 

The  sanitary  regulations  of  the  squadron,  induced  by  the  com 
mencement  of  the  rainy  season,  cause  considerable  mirth  and 
some  growling.  One  rule  is,  that  every  man  shall  protect  him 
self  with  flannel  next  his  person,  and  at  night  shall  also  wear  a 
cloth-jacket  and  trowsers.  Stoves  are  placed  on  the  berth-deck, 
to  dry  the  atmosphere  below.  It  is  a  curious  fact,  that,  in  March 
last,  at  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  with  the  thermometer  at  zero,  we 
were  deprived  of  stoves  the  moment  the  powder  came  on  board ; 
while  now  in  the  month  of  July,  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  swelter- 


CHAP,  xi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  13 

ing  at  eighty  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  the  fires  are  lighted  through- 
out  the  ship. 

27. — Continual  rain  for  the  last  three  days.  All  miserable, 
but  getting  used  to  it. 

29. — A  clear  day,  and  comfortably  cool.     Wind  fair. 

30. — Made  land,  and  saw  an  English  brig  of  war.  Com 
mander  Oakes,  of  the  Ferret,  came  on  board. 

31. — Made  Cape  Mount. 

August  1. — At  12,  meridian,  anchored  at  Cape  Mesurado,  off 
the  town  of  Monrovia.  We  find  at  anchor  here  the  U.  S.  brig 
Porpoise,  and  a  French  barque,  as  well  as  a  small  schooner, 
bearing  the  Liberian  flag.  This  consists  of  stripes  and  a  cross, 
and  may  be  regarded  as  emblematical  of  the  American  origin 
of  the  colony,  and  of  the  Christian  philanthropy  to  which  it  owes 
its  existence.  Thirty  or  forty  Kroomen  came  alongside.  Three 
officers  of  the  Porpoise  visited  us.  All  are  anxious  to  get  back 
to  the  United  States.  They  coincide,  however,  in  saying  that, 
with  simple  precautions,  the  health  of  this  station  is  as  good  as 
that  of  any  other.  They  have  had  only  a  single  case  of  fever 
on  board ;  and,  in  that  instance,  the  patient  was  a  man  who  ran 
away,  and  spent  a  night  ashore. 

My  old  acquaintance,  Captain  Cooper,  came  on  board,  and  is 
to  be  employed  as  pilot. 


14  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  in. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Visit  of  Governor  Roberts,  &c. — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — American 
Missionaries — Prosperity  of  the  Catholic  Mission — King  Freeman,  and 
his  royal  robe — Customs  of  the  Kroo-people — Condition  of  native  women. 

August  2. — WE  were  visited  by  Governor  Roberts,  Doctor 
Day,  and  General  Lewis,  the  latter  being  colonial  secretary, 
and  military  chief  of  the  settlement.  They  looked  well,  and 
welcomed  me  back  to  Liberia  with  the  cordiality  of  old  friend- 
ship.  The  Governor  was  received  by  the  commodore,  captain, 
and  officers,  and  saluted  with  eleven  guns.  He  and  his  suite 
dined  in  the  cabin,  and  some  of  the  officers  of  the  Porpoise  in 
the  ward-room.  In  the  evening,  we  brought  out  all  our  forces 
for  the  amusement  of  our  distinguished  guests.  First,  the  negro 
band  sang  "Old  Dan  Tucker,"  "Jim  along  Josey,"  and  other 
ditties  of  the  same  class,  accompanied  by  violin  and  tambourine. 
Then  Othello  played  monkey,  and  gave  a  series  of  recitations. 
The  French  cook  sang  with  great  spirit  and  skill.  The  enter 
tainments  of  the  evening,  as  the  theatrical  bills  expressed  it, 
concluded  with  Ma  Normandie  and  other  beautiful  songs  and 
airs  well  executed  by  the  French  cook,  accompanied  by  Symmes 
on  the  violin,  and  a  landsman  on  the  flute. 

5. — Sailed  for  Cape  Palmas,  in  company  with  the  Porpoise. 

9. — Anchored  at  Cape  Palmas.  We  were  boarded  by  Kroo- 
men,  in  eight  or  ten  canoes.  While  the  thermometer  stood  at 
75  or  80  degrees,  these  naked  boatmen  were  shivering,  and 
seemed  absolutely  to  suffer  with  cold  ;  and  such  is  the  effect  of 
the  climate  upon  our  own  physical  systems,  that  we  find  woollen 
garments  comfortable  at  the  same  temperature. 

Visited  and  lunched  with  Governor  Rasswurm.  Called  on 
Mr.  James,  a  colored  missionary,  now  occupying  the  house  of 
Mr.  Wilson,  who  has  lately  removed  to  Gaboon  river.  Mr. 
James  presented  us  with  some  ebony,  and  a  few  Grebo  books. 


CHAP,  in.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  15 

He  informed  us  that  the  fever  had  visited  him  more  or  less 
severely,  as  often  as  once  in  four  weeks  during  seven  years. 
This  may  truly  be  called  a  feverish  life  !  He  is  about  to  remove 
to  (Jaboon. 

The  Catholic  Mission  seems  to  have  driven  the  Presbyterian 
from  the  ground.  We  called  on  Mr.  Kelly,  a  Catholic  priest 
from  Baltimore,  and  the  only  white  man  of  the  Mission  at  pre 
sent  in  Africa.  Preparations,  however,  have  already  been  made 
for  twenty  more,  principally  French,  whose  arrival  is  expected 
within  a  year,  and  who  will  establish  themselves  at  different 
points  along  the  coast.  Mr.  Kelly  is  now  finishing  a  very  com- 
modious  house,  on  a  scale  of  some  magnitude,  with  piazzas  around 
the  whole.  There  is  evidently  no  lack  of  money.  The  funds 
for  the  support  of  the  Catholic  mission  are  derived  principally 
through  Lyons,  in  France;  and  the  enterprise  is  said  to  be  under 
the  patronage  of  the  king.  The  abundant  pecuniary  means 
which  the  priests  have  at  command,  and  the  imposing  and  attrac 
tive  ceremonies  of  their  mode  of  worship — so  well  fitted  to  pro 
duce  an  effect  on  uncultivated  natures,  where  appeals  either  to 
the  intellect  or  the  heart  would  be  thrown  away — are  among 
the  chief  causes  of  their  success.  It  is  said,  too,  and  perhaps 
with  truth,  that  as  many  converts  are  made,  among  the  natives, 
by  presents,  as  by  persuasion.  But  no  small  degree  of  the  pros 
perity  of  the  mission  must  be  attributed  to  the  superior  shrewd- 
ness  and  ability  of  the  persons  engaged  in  it — to  their  skilful 
adaptation  of  their  precepts  and  modes  of  instruction  to  the  peo 
ple  with  whom  they  have  to  deal,  and  to  their  employment  of 
the  maxims  of  worldly  policy  in  aid  of  their  religious  views. 
These  qualities  and  rules  of  conduct  have  characterized  the 
Catholic  missionaries  in  all  ages,  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and 
in  their  dealings  with  every  variety  of  the  human  race  ;  and 
their  success  has  everywhere  been  commensurate  with  the 
superiority,  in  a  merely  temporal  point  of  view,  of  the  system  on 
which  they  acted. 

Before  returning  on  board,  we  called  on  King  Freeman,  who 
received  us,  seated  on  a  chair  which  was  placed  in  front  of  his 
house.  His  majesty's  royal  robe  was  no  other  than  an  old  uni 
form  frock,  which  I  had  given  him  three  years  ago.  We  ac- 


16  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  in. 

cepted  the  chairs  which  he  offered  us,  and  held  a  palaver,  while 
some  twenty  of  his  subjects  stood  respectfully  around.  He  re 
membered  my  former  visit  to  the  colony,  and  appeared  very 
glad  to  see  me  again.  His  town  was  nearly  deserted,  the  peo 
ple  having  gone  out  to  gather  rice.  About  the  royal  residence, 
and  in  the  vicinity,  I  saw  thirty  or  forty  cattle,  most  of  them 
young,  and  all  remarkably  small.  It  is  said,  and  I  believe  it  to 
be  a  fact,  that  cattle,  and  even  fowls,  when  brought  from  the 
interior,  take  the  coast-fever,  and  often  perish  with  it.  Certain 
it  is  that  they  do  not  flourish. 

11. — King  Freeman  came  on  board,  dressed  in  his  uniform 
frock,  with  two  epaulettes,  a  redcap,  and  checked  trowsers.  He 
received  some  powder  and  bread  from  the  Commodore,  and  some 
trifles  from  the  ward-room. 

12. — Joe  Davis  brought  his  son  on  board  to  "  learn  sense." 
In  pursuit  of  this  laudable  object,  the  young  man  is  to  make  a 
cruise  with  us.  The  father  particularly  requested  that  his  son 
might  be  flogged,  saying,  "  Spose  you  lick  him,  you  gib  him 
sense !"  On  such  a  system,  a  man-of-war  is  certainly  no  bad 
school  of  improvement. 

13. — A  delightful  day,  clear  sky,  and  cool  breeze.  We  sailed 
from  Cape  Palmas  yesterday,  steering  up  the  coast. 

I  have  been  conversing  with  young  Ben  Johnson,  one  of  our 
Kroomen,  on  the  conjugal  and  other  customs  of  his  countrymen. 
These  constitute  quite  a  curious  object  of  research.  The  Kroo 
men  are  indispensable  in  carrying  on  the  commerce  and  mari 
time  business  of  the  African  coast.  When  a  Kroo-boat  comes 
alongside,  you  may  buy  the  canoe,  hire  the  men  at  a  moment's 
warning,  and  retain  them  in  your  service  for  months.  They 
expend  no  time  nor  trouble  in  providing  their  equipment,  since 
it  consists  merely  of  a  straw  hat  and  a  piece  of  white  or  colored 
cotton  girded  about  their  loins.  In  their  canoes,  they  deposit 
these  girdles  in  the  crowns  of  their  hats  ;  nor  is  it  unusual, 
when  a  shower  threatens  them  on  shore,  to  see  them  place  this 
sole  garment  in  the  same  convenient  receptacle,  and  then  make 
for  shelter.  When  rowing  a  boat,  or  paddling  a  canoe,  it  is 
their  custom  to  sing ;  and,  as  the  music  goes  on,  they  seem  to 
become  invigorated,  applying  their  strength  cheerfully,  and  with 


CHAP,  in.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  17 

limbs  as  unwearied  us  their  voices.  One  of  their  number  leads 
in  recitative,  and  the  whole  company  respond  in  the  chorus.  Tin: 
subject  of  the  song  is  a  recital  of  the  exploits  of  the  men,  their 
employments,  their  intended  movements,  the  news  of  the  coast, 
and  the  character  of  their  employers.  It  is  usual,  in  these  ex 
temporary  strains,  for  the  Kroomen  attached  to  a  man-of-war  to 
taunt,  with  good-humored  satire,  their  friends  who  are  more 
laboriously  employed  in  merchant  vessels,  and  not  so  well  fed 
and  paid. 

Their  object  in  leaving  home,  and  entering  into  the  service  of 
navigators,  is  generally  to  obtain  the  means  of  purchasing 
wives,  the  number  of  whom  constitutes  a  man's  importance.  The 
sons  of  "  gentlemen"  (for  there  is  such  a  distinction  of  rank 
among  them)  never  labor  at  home,  but  do  not  hesitate  to  go 
away,  for  a  year  or  two,  and  earn  something  to  take  to  their  fam 
ilies.  On  the  return  of  these  wanderers — not  like  the  prodigal 
son,  but  bringing  wealth  to  their  kindred — great  rejoicings  are 
instituted.  A  bullock  is  killed  by  the  head  of  the  family,  guns 
are  fired,  and  two  or  three  days  are  spent  in  the  performance 
of  various  plays  and  dances.  The  "  boy"  gives  all  his  earnings 
to  his  father,  and  places  himself  again  under  the  parental  au 
thority.  The  Krooman  of  maturer  age,  on  his  return  from  an 
expedition  of  this  kind,  buys  a  wife,  or  perhaps  more  than  one, 
and  distributes  the  rest  of  his  accumulated  gains  among  his  rela 
tives.  In  a  week,  he  has  nothing  left  but  his  wives  and  his 
house. 

Age  is  more  respected  by  the  Africans  than  by  any  other  peo 
ple.  Even  if  the  son  be  forty  years  old,  he  seldom  seeks  to 
emancipate  himself  from  the  paternal  government.  If  a  young 
man  falls  in  love,  he,  in  the  first  place,  consults  his  father.  The 
latter  makes  propositions  to  the  damsel's  father,  who,  if  his  daugh 
ter  agree  to  the  match,  announces  the  terms  of  purchase.  The 
price  varies  in  different  places,  and  is  also  influenced  by  other 
circumstances,  such  as  the  respectability  and  power  of  the  fam 
ily,  and  the  beauty  and  behavior  of  the  girl.  The  arrangements 
here  described  are  often  made  when  the  girl  is  only  five  or  six 
years  of  age,  in  which  case  she  remains  with  her  friends  until 
womanhood,  and  then  goes  to  the  house  of  her  bridegroom. 
3 


18  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  in. 


Meantime,  her  family  receive  the  stipulated  price,  and  are  re 
sponsible  for  her  good  behavior.  Should  she  prove  faithless,  and 
run  away,  her  purchase-money  must  be  refunded  by  her  friends, 
who,  in  their  turn,  have  a  claim  upon  the  family  of  him  who  se 
duces  or  harbors  her.  If  prompt  satisfaction  be  not  made  (which, 
however,  is  generally  the  case),  there  will  be  a  "  big  palaver," 
and  a  much  heavier  expense  for  damages  and  costs.  If,  after 
the  commencement  of  married  life,  the  husband  is  displeased 
with  his  wife's  conduct,  he  complains  to  her  father,  who  either 
takes  her  back,  and  repays  the  dowry,  or  more  frequently  ad 
vises  that  she  be  flogged.  In  the  latter  alternative,  she  is  tied, 
starved,  and  severely  beaten  ;  a  mode  of  conjugal  discipline 
which  generally  produces  the  desired  effect. 

Should  the  wife  be  suspected  of  infidelity,  the  husband  may 
charge  her  with  it.  and  demand  that  she  drink  the  poisonous  de 
coction  of  sassy- wood,  which  is  used  as  the  test  of  guilt  or  inno 
cence,  in  all  cases  that  are  considered  too  uncertain  for  human 
judgment.  If  her  stomach  free  itself  from  the  fatal  draught  by 
vomiting,  she  is  declared  innocent,  and  is  taken  back  by  her 
family  without  repayment  of  the  dower.  On  the  other  hand,  if 
the  poison  begin  to  take  effect,  she  is  pronounced  guilty  ;  an 
emetic  is  administered  in  the  shape  of  common  soap ;  and  her 
husband  may,  at  his  option,  either  send  her  home,  or  cut  off  her 
nose  and  ears. 

There  is  one  sad  discrepancy  in  the  moral  system  of  these  peo 
ple,  as  regards  the  virtue  of  the  women.  No  disgrace  is  imputed 
to  the  wife  who  admits  the  immoral  advances  of  a  white  man, 
provided  it  be  done  with  the  knowledge  and  consent  of  her  hus 
band.  The  latter,  in  whose  eyes  the  white  man  is  one  of  a  dis 
tinct  and  superior  order  of  beings,  usually  considers  himself 
honored  by  an  affair  of  this  nature,  and  makes  it  likewise  a  mat 
ter  of  profit.  AH  proposals,  in  view  of  such  a  connection,  must 
pass  through  the  husband  ;  nor,  it  is  affirmed,  is  there  any  haz 
ard  of  wounding  his  delicacy,  or  awakening  his  resentment, 
whatever  be  his  rank  and  respectability.  The  violated  wife  re 
turns  to  the  domestic  roof  with  undiminished  honor,  and  confines 
herself  as  rigidly  within  the  limits  of  her  nuptial  vow,  as  if  this 
singular  suspension  of  it  had  never  taken  place. 


CHAP.  HI.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  19 

In  spite  of  the  degradation  indicated  by  the  above  customs,  the 
Kroo-women  are  rather  superior  to  other  native  females,  and 
seem  to  occupy  a  higher  social  position.  The  wife  first  married 
holds  the  purse,  directs  the  household  affairs,  and  rules  the  other 
women,  who  labor  diligently  for  the  benefit  of  their  common 
husband  and  master.  Their  toil  constitutes  his  wealth.  It  is 
usual  for  a  man  to  live  two,  three,  or  four  days,  with  each  of  his 
wives  in  tnrn.  As  old  age  advances,  he  loses  the  control  of  his 
female  household,  most  of  the  members  of  which  run  away,  un 
less  he  is  wise  enough  to  dispose  of  them  (as  usage  permits)  to 
his  more  youthful  relatives.  As  a  Krooman  of  sixty  or  seventy 
often  has  wives  in  their  teens,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that 
they  should  occasionally  show  a  disposition  to  rove. 


20  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  IT. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Return  to  Monrovia — Sail  for  Porto  Praya — The  Union  Hotel — Reminis 
cences  of  famine  at  the  Cape  de  Verds — Frolics  of  Whalemen — Visit  to 
the  island  of  St.  Antonio — A  dance — Fertility  of  the  island — A  Yankee 
clock-maker— A  mountain  ride — City  of  Poverson — Point  de  Sol — Kind 
ness  of  the  women — The  handsome  commandant — A  Portuguese  dinner. 

August  14. — PASSED  near  Since,  a  colonial  settlement,  but  did 
not  show  our  colors.  An  English  merchant  brig,  was  at  anchor. 
Our  pilot  observed,  that  this  settlement  was  not  in  a  flourishing 
condition,  because  it  received  no  great  "resistance"  from  the 
Colonization  Society.  Of  course,  he  meant  to  say,  "  assistance  /" 
but  there  was  an  unintentional  philosophy  in  the  remark.  Many 
plants  thrive  best  in  adversity. 

Anchored  at  the  river  Sesters,  and  sent  a  boat  ashore.  Two 
canoes  paddled  alongside,  and  their  head-men  came  on  board. 
One  was  a  beautifully  formed  man,  and  walked  the  deck  with  a 
picturesque  dignity  of  aspect  and  motion.  He  had  more  the 
movement  of  an  Indian,  than  any  negro  I  ever  saw.  Two  men 
were  left  in  each  boat,  to  keep  her  alongside,  and  wait  the  move 
ments  of  their  master.  They  kneel  in  the  boat,  and  sit  on  their 
heels.  When  a  biscuit  is  thrown  to  them,  they  put  it  on  their 
thighs,  and  thence  eat  it  at  their  leisure. 

16. — Ashore  at  Monrovia.  The  buildings  look  dilapidated, 
and  the  wooden  walls  are  in  a  state  of  decay.  Houses  of  stone 
are  coming  into  vogue.  There  is  a  large  stone  court-house,  in 
tended  likewise  for  a  Legislative  Hall.  What  most  interested 
me,  was  an  African  pony,  a  beautiful  animal,  snow  white,  with 
a  head  as  black  as  ebony.  I  also  saw  five  men  chained  together, 
by  the  neck  ;  three  colonists  and  two  natives,  with  an  overseer 
superintending  them.  They  had  been  splitting  stone  for  Gov 
ernment. 

A  gun  from  the  ship  gave  the  signal  for  our  return.  Going 
on  board,  we  got  under  way,  and  sailed  for  Porto  Praya. 


CHAP,  iv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  -Jl 

20. — For  four  days,  we  have  had  much  rain  ;  and  I  have  sel 
dom  visited  the  deck,  except  when  duty  called  me.  Fortunately, 
Governor  Roberts  had  lent  me  the  report  of  the  Committee  of 
Parliament,  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa,  the  perusal  of  which 
has  afforded  me  both  pleasant  and  profitable  occupation.  It  is 
an  excellent  work,  full  of  facts,  from  men  who  have  spent  years 
on  the  coast. 

21. — Wind  still  favorable.  The  day  is  sunny,  and  all  are  on 
deck  to  enjoy  the  air.  Damp  clothes  hang  in  the  rigging  to-day, 
and  mouldy  boots  and  shoes  fill  the  boats. 

24. — We  find  ourselves  again  off  the  harbor  of  Porto  Praya. 
I  landed  in  quest  of  news,  and  heard  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Legare, 
and  the  loss  of  the  store-ship,  at  this  port.  All  hands  were  saved, 
but  with  the  sacrifice  of  several  thousand  dollars'  worth  of  prop 
erty,  besides  the  vessel. 

On  approaching  the  shore,  three  flags  arc  observed  to  be  flying 
in  the  town.  One  is  the  consular  flag  of  our  own  nation ;  another 
is  the  banner  of  Portugal  ;  and  the  third,  being  blue,  white,  and 
blue,  is  apt  to  puzzle  a  stranger,  until  he  reads  UNION  HOTEL, 
in  letters  a  foot  long.  When  last  at  Porto  Praya,  a  few  friends 
and  myself  took  some  slight  refreshment  at  the  hotel,  and  were 
charged  so  exorbitantly,  that  we  forswore  all  visits  to  the  house 
in  future.  To-day,  the  keeper  stopt  me  in  the  street,  and  beg 
ged  the  favor  of  our  patronage.  On  my  representing  the  enor 
mity  of  his  former  conduct,  he  declared  that  it  was  all  a  mistake; 
that  he  was  the  master  of  the  hotel,  and  was  unfortunately  absent 
at  the  time.  I  was  pleased  with  this  effrontery,  having  paid  the 
exorbitant  charge  into  his  own  hands,  not  a  month  before.  It  is 
delightful,  in  these  remote,  desolate,  and  semi-barbarous  regions, 
to  meet  with  characteristics  that  remind  us  of  a  more  polished 
and  civilized  land. 

The  streets  are  hot  and  deserted,  and  the  town  more  than 
ordinarily  dull,  as  most  of  the  inhabitants  are  out  planting.  The 
court  has  gone  to  Buonavista,  on  account  of  the  unhealthiness 
of  Porta  Praya,  at  this  season  of  the  year.  A  few  dozen  scrubby 
trees  have  been  planted  in  the  large  square,  but,  though  protected 
by  palings  and  barrels,  have  not  reached  the  height  of  two 


22  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 

feet.  In  the  centre  stands  a  marble  monument,  possibly  intended 
for  a  fountain,  but  wholly  destitute  of  water. 

25. — The  boat  went  ashore  again,  and  brought  off  the  consul, 
and  some  stores.  We  then  made  sail,  passing  to  the  windward 
of  all  the  islands,  and  reached  our  former  anchorage  at  Porto 
Grande. 

28. — There  are  one  barque  and  three  brigs,  all  American 
whalers,  in  the  harbor  of  Porto  Grande.  They  have  been  out  from 
three  to  six  months,  and  are  here  for  water,  bad  though  it  be, 
and  fresh  provisions.  Their  inducements  to  visit  this  port,  are  the 
goodness  of  the  harbor,  and  the  smallness  of  the  port  charges. 
No  consular  fee  has  been  paid  until  now,  when,  an  agent  being 
appointed,  each  vessel  pays  him  a  perquisite  of  four  dollars. 

This  group  of  islands  is  chiefly  interesting  to  Americans,  as 
being  the  resort  of  our  whale-ships,  to  refit  and  obtain  supplies, 
and  of  other  vessels  trading  to  the  coast  of  Africa.  Little  was 
generally  known  of  them,  however,  in  America,  until  1832,  when 
a  long-continued  drought  parched  up  the  fields,  destroyed  the 
crops,  and  reduced  the  whole  population  to  the  verge  of  death, 
by  famine.  Not  less  than  ten  thousand  did  actually  perish  of 
hunger ;  and  the  remainder  were  saved  only  by  the  timely, 
prompt  and  bountiful  supplies,  sent  out  from  every  part  of  the 
United  States.  I  well  remember  the  thrill  of  compassion  that 
pervaded  the  community  at  home,  on  hearing  that  multitudes 
were  starving  in  the  Cape  de  Verd  islands.  Without  pausing  to 
inquire  who  they  were,  or  whether  entitled  to  our  assistance,  by 
any  other  than  the  all-powerful  claim  of  wretchedness,  the  Amer 
icans  sent  vessel  after  vessel,  laden  with  food,  which  was  gra 
tuitously  distributed  to  the  poor.  The  supplies  were  liberal  and 
unremitted,  until  the  rains  returned,  and  gave  the  usual  crops  to 
the  cultivators. 

Twelve  years  have  passed  since  that  dismal  famine ;  but  the 
memory  of  the  aid  extended  by  Americans  has  not  yet  faded, 
nor  seems  likely  to  fade,  from  the  minds  of  those  who  were  suc 
cored  in  their  need.  I  have  heard  men,  who  were  then  saved 
from  starvation,  speak  strongly  and  feelingly  on  the  subject,  with 
quivering  lip  and  faltering  voice.  Women,  likewise,  with  stream 
ing  eyes,  to  this  day,  invoke  blessings  on  the  foreign  land  that 


CHAP,  iv.]  AFRICAN  CRUIS1.K  23 

fed  their  children,  when  there  was  no  other  earthly  help.  Eng 
land,  though  nearer,  and  in  more  intimate  connection  with  these 
islands,  sent  not  a  mouthful  of  food  ;  and  Portugal,  the  mother 
country,  shipped  only  one  or  two  small  cargoes  to  he  sold  ;  while 
America  fed  the  starving  thousands,  gratuitously,  for  months.  I  )ur 
consul  at  Porto  Praya,  Mr.  (lardrier,  after  making  a  strong  and 
successful  appeal  to  the  sympathies  of  his  own  countrymen,  distri 
buted  his  own  stores  to  the  inhabitants,  until  lie  was  \\  ell-nigh  beg 
gared.  He  enjoys  the  only  reward  he  sought,  in  the  approval  of 
his  conscience,  us  well  as  the  gratitude  of  the  community  ;  and 
America,  too,  may  claim  more  true  glory  from  this  instance  of 
general  benevolence,  pervading  the  country  from  one  end  to  the 
other,  than  from  any  victory  in  our  annals. 

29. — Ashore  again.  An  ox  for  our  ship  was  driven  in  from 
the  mountains  by  three  or  four  horsemen  and  as  many  dogs,  who 
chased  him  till  he  took  refuge  in  the  water.  A  boat  now  put  off, 
and  soon  overtaking  the  tired  animal,  he  was  tied  securely. 
When  towed  ashore,  one  rope  was  fastened  round  his  horns, 
and  another  to  his  fore-foot,  each  held  by  a  negro,  while  a  third 
took  a  strong  gripe  of  his  tail.  In  this  manner,  they  led 
and  drove  him  along,  the  fellow  behind  occasionally  biting  the 
beast's  tail,  to  quicken  his  motions  ;  until  at  length  the  poor 
creature  was  made  fast  to  an  anchor  on  the  beach,  there  to  await 
the  butcher. 

There  is  here  a  miserable  church,  but  no  priest.  Passing  the 
edifice  to-day,  I  saw  seven  or  eight  women  at  their  devotions. 
Instead  of  kneeling,  they  were  seated,  with  their  chins  resting 
on  their  knees,  on  the  shady  side  of  the  church. 

30. — The  crews  of  the  whale-ships,  when  ashore,  occasion 
ally  give  no  little  trouble  to  the  colonial  police.  This  evening. 
one  of  their  sailors  came  up  to  us,  quite  intoxicated,  and  bleeding 
from  a  hurt  in  his  head.  He  was  bent  upon  vengeance  for  his 
wound,  but  puzzled  how  to  get  it ;  inasmuch  as  a  female  hand 
had  done  the  mischief,  by  cutting  his  head  open  with  a  bottle. 
His  chivalry  would  not  allow  him  to  strike  a  woman  ;  nor  could 
he  find  any  man  who  would  acknowledge  himself  her  relative. 
In  this  dilemma,  he  was  raving  through  the  little  village,  accom 
panied  by  several  of  his  brother  whale-men,  mostly  drunk,  and 


24  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 


ready  for  a  row.  The  Portuguese  officer  on  duty  called  out  the 
guard,  consisting  of  two  negroes  with  fixed  bayonets,  and  caused 
them  to  march  back  and  forth  in  the  street.  Fifty  paces  in  the 
village  would  bring  them  to  the  country  ;  when  the  detachment 
came  to  the  right  about,  and  retraced  its  steps.  These  two 
negroes  formed  precisely  two-fifths  of  the  regular  military  force 
at  Porto  Grande  ;  but,  besides  this  formidable  host,  there  are 
some  thirty  officers  and  soldiers  of  the  National  Guard,  compris 
ing  all  the  negro  population  able  to  bear  clubs. 

The  women  here  have  a  peculiar  mode  of  carrying  children, 
when  two  or  three  years  old.  The  child  sits  astride  of  the  mother's 
left  hip,  clinging  with  hands  and  feet,  and  partially  supported  by 
her  left  arm.  The  little  personage  being  in  a  state  of  total  nudity, 
and  of  course  very  slippery,  this  is  doubtless  the  most  convenient 
method  that  could  be  adopted. 

The  gait  of  the  women  is  remarkably  free  and  unembarrassed. 
With  no  constraint  of  stays  or  corsets,  and  often  innocent  of  any 
covering,  the  shoulders  have  full  play,  and  the  arms  swing  more 
than  I  have  ever  seen  those  of  men,  in  our  own  country.  Their 
robes  are  neither  too  abundant,  nor  too  tight,  to  prevent  th6 
exhibition  of  a  very  martial  stride.  The  scanty  clothing  worn 
here  is  owing  partly,  but  not  entirely,  to  the  warmth  of  the  cli 
mate.  Another  cogent  reason  is  the  poverty  of  the  inhabitants ; 
so,  at  least,  I  infer  from  the  continual  petitions  for  clothes,  and 
from  remarks  like  the  following,  made  to  me  by  a  mulatto  wo 
man  : — "  You  very  good  man,  you  got  plenty  clothes,  plenty 
shirt." 

September  3. — The  Cornelia,  of  New  Bedford,  came  in  and 
anchored.  She  has  been  out  fifteen  months,  and  has  only  400 
barrels  of  oil. 

4. — Left  the  ship  in  the  launch  on  an  expedition  to  the  neigh 
boring  island  of  St.  Antonio  ;  being  despatched  by  the  Commodore 
to  procure  information  as  to  the  facilities  for  anchoring  ships, 
and  obtaining  water  and  refreshments.  Our  boat  was  sloop- 
rigged,  and  carried  three  officers,  a  passenger,  and  ten  men.  At 
11  A.  M.  we  "sheeted  home/'  and  stood  out  of  the  harbor  with  a 
fair  breeze,  and  all  canvass  spread :  but,  within  an  hour,  the 
wind  freshened  to  a  gale,  and  compelled  us  to  take  in  every- 


CHAP,  iv.]  AFRICAN  CltriSER.  25 


thing  but  a  close  reefed  mainsail.  The  sea  being  rough,  and 
the  weather  squally,  our  boat  took  in  more  water  than  was 
either  agreeable  or  safe,  until  we  somewhat  improved  matters  by 
constructing  a  temporary  forecastle  of  tarpaulins.  Finding  it 
impossible,  however,  to  contend  against  wind  and  current,  we 
bore  up  for  an  anchorage  called  Santa  Crus.  This  was  for 
merly  a  notorious  haunt  for  pirates  ;  but  no  vestigf  of  a  set 
tlement  remains,  save  the  ruins  of  an  old  stone  house,  which 
may  probably  have  been  the  theatre  of  wild  and  bloody  incidents, 
in  by-gone  years.  The  serrated  hills  are  grey  and  barren,  and 
the  surrounding  country  shows  no  verdure.  Anchoring  here. 
we  waited  several  hours  for  the  wind  to  moderate,  and  tried  to 
get  such  sleep  as  might  perchance  be  caught  in  an  unsteady 
boat. 

By  great  diligence  in  working  against  wind  and  current,  we 
succeeded  in  reaching  Genella  at  9  o'clock  in  the  evening  of  the 
second  day.  Our  mulatto  pilot,  JManuel  Quatrine,  whistled 
shrilly  through  his  fingers  ;  and,  after  a  brief  delay,  the  response 
of  a  similar  whistle  reached  our  ears  from  shore.  A  conversation 
was  sustained  for  some  moments,  by  means  of  shouts  to-and-fro 
in  Portuguese ;  a  man  then  swam  off  to  reconnoitre  ;  and,  on 
his  return,  the  people  launched  a  canoe  and  carried  us  ashore, 
weary  enough  of  thirty-six  hours'  confinement  in  an  open  boat. 
We  took  up  our  quarters  in  the  house  of  a  decent  negro,  who 
seemed  to  be  the  head  man  of  the  village,  and,  after  eating  such 
a  supper  as  the  place  could  supply,  sallied  out  to  give  the  women 
an  opportunity  of  preparing  our  beds. 

Meanwhile,  the  pilot  had  not  been  idle.  Though  a  married 
man,  and  the  father  of  six  children,  he  was  a  gay  Lothario,  and 
a  great  favorite  with  the  sex  ;  he  could  sing,  dance,  and  touch 
the  guitar  with  infinite  spirit,  and  tolerable  skill.  Being  well 
known  in  the  village,  it  is  not  surprising  that  the  arrival  of  so 
accomplished  a  personage  should  have  disturbed  the  slumbers  of 
the  inhabitants.  At  ten  o'clock,  a  dance  was  arranged  before 
the  door  of  one  of  the  huts.  The  dark-skinned  maidens,  requir 
ing  but  little  time  to  put  on  their  ball-costume,  came  dropping 
in,  until,  before  midnight,  there  wore  thirty  or  forty  dancers  on 
foot.  The  figures  were  compounded  of  the  contra-dance  and 


26  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 

reel,  with  some  remarkable  touches  of  the  Mandingo  balance 
The  music  proceeded  from  one  or  two  guitars,  which,  however, 
were  drowned  a  great  part  of  the  time,  by  the  singing  of  the  girls 
and  the  clapping  of  each  individual  pair  of  hands  in  the  whole 
party.  A  calabash  of  sour  wine,  munificently  bestowed  by  a 
spectator,  increased  the  fun,  and  it  continued  to  wax  higher  and 
more  furious,  as  the  night  wore  away.  Our  little  pilot  was, 
throughout,  the  leader  of  the  frolic,  and  acquitted  himself  admi 
rably.  His  nether  garments  having  received  serious  detriment 
in  the  voyage,  he  borrowed  a  large  heavy  pea-jacket,  to  conceal 
the  rents,  and  in  this  garb  danced  for  hours  with  the  best,  in  a 
sultry  night.  Long  before  the  festivity  was  over,  my  companions 
and  myself  stretched  ourselves  on  a  wide  bag  of  straw,  and  fell 
asleep,  lulled  by  the  screaming  of  the  dancers. 

The  next  morning  we  were  early  on  foot,  and  looked  around 
us  with  no  small  interest.  The  village  is  situated  at  the  point 
where  a  valley  opens  upon  the  shore.  The  sides  of  this  vale  are 
steep,  and,  in  many  places,  high,  perpendicular,  and  rocky. 
Every  foot  of  earth  is  cultivated ;  and  where  the  natural  incli 
nation  of  the  hill  is  too  great  to  admit  of  tillage,  stone-walls 
are  built  to  sustain  terraces,  which  rise  one  over  another  like 
giant  steps  to  the  mountain-tops.  It  was  the  beginning  of  har 
vest,  and  the  little  valley  presented  an  appearance  of  great 
fertility.  Corn,  bananas,  figs,  guavas,  grapes,  oranges,  sugar 
cane,  cocoa-nuts,  and  many  other  fruits  and  vegetables,  are 
raised  in  abundance.  The  annual  vintage  in  this  and  a  neigh 
boring  valley,  appertaining  to  the  same  parish,  amounts  to  about 
seventy-five  pipes  of  wine.  It  is  sour  and  unpalatable,  not  un 
like  hard-cider  and  water.  When  a  cultivator  first  tries  his 
wine,  it  is  a  custom  of  the  island  for  him  to  send  notice  to  all 
his  acquaintances,  who  invariably  come  in  great  force,  each 
bringing  a  piece  of  salt-fish  to  keep  his  thirst  alive.  Not  unfre- 
quently,  the  whole  produce  of  the  season  is  exhausted  by  a  single 
carouse. 

The  people  are  all  negroes  and  mulattoes.  Male  and  female, 
they  are  very  expert  swimmers,  and  are  often  in  the  habit  of 
swimming  out  to  sea,  with  a  basket  or  notched  stick  to  hold  their 
fish  j  and  thus  they  angle  for  hours,  resting  motionless  on  the 


CHAP,  iv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  27 


waves,  unless  attacked  by  a  shark.  In  this  latter  predicament, 
they  turn  upon  their  backs,  and  kick  and  splash  until  tin-  s>  a- 
monstcr  be  frightened  away.  They  appear  to  be  a  genial  and 
pleasant-tempered  race.  As  we  walked  through  the  village, 
they  saluted  us  with  "  Blessed  be  the  name  of  the  Lord !" 
Whether  this  expression  (a  customary  courtesy  of  the  islanders) 
were  mere  breath,  or  proceeded  out  of  the  depths  of  the  heart, 
is  not  for  us  to  judge ;  but,  at  all  events,  heard  in  so  wild  and 
romantic  a  place,  it  made  a  forcible  impression  on  my  mind. 
When  we  were  ready  to  depart,  all  the  villagers  came  to  the 
beach,  with  whatever  commodities  they  were  disposed  to  offer  for 
sale  ;  a  man  carrying  a  squealing  pig  upon  his  shoulders ; 
women  with  fruits  and  fowls ;  girls  witli  heavy  bunches  of 
bananas  or  bundles  of  cassada  on  their  heads ;  and  boys,  with 
perhaps  a  single  egg.  Each  had  something,  and  all  lingered  on 
the  shore  until  our  boat  was  fairly  off. 

Five  or  six  miles  further,  we  landed  at  Paolo,  where  reside 
several  families  who  regard  themselves  as  the  aristocracy  of  St. 
Antonio,  on  the  score  of  being  connected  with  Seflor  Martinez, 
the  great  man  of  these  islands.  Their  houses  are  neatly  built, 
and  the  fields  and  gardens  well  cultivated.  They  received  us 
hospitably,  principally  because  one  of  our  party  was  a  connec 
tion  of  the  family.  I  ^'as  delighted  witli  an  exhibition  of  feel 
ing  on  the  part  of  an  old  negro  servant-woman.  She  came  into 
the  parlor,  sat  down  at  the  feet  of  our  companion,  embraced  his 
knees,  and  looked  up  in  his  face  with  a  countenance  full  of  joy, 
mingled  with  respect  and  confidence.  We  saw  but  two  ladies 
at  this  settlement.  One  was  a  matron  with  nine  children  ;  the 
other  a  dark  brunette,  very  graceful  and  pleasing,  with  the 
blackest  eyes  and  whitest  teeth  in  the  world.  She  wore  a  shawl 
over  the  right  shoulder  and  under  the  left  arm,  arranged  in  a 
truly  fascinating  manner. 

The  poorer  classes  in  the  vicinity  are  nearly  all  colored,  and 
mostly  free.  They  work  for  eight  or  ten  cents  a  day,  living 
principally  on  fruit  and  vegetables,  and  are  generally  indepen 
dent,  because  their  few  wants  are  limited  to  the  supply.  The 
richest  persons  live  principally  within  themselves,  and  derive 
their  meats,  vegetables,  fruits,  wine,  brandy,  sugar,  coffee,  oil, 


28  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 


and  most  other  necessaries  and  luxuries,  from  their  own  planta 
tions.  One  piece  of  furniture;  however,  to  be  seen  in  several  of 
the  houses,  was  evidently  not  the  manufacture  of  the  island,  but 
an  export  of  Yankee-land.  It  was  the  wooden  clock,  in  its 
shining  mahogany  case,  adorned  with  bright  red  and  yellow 
pictures  of  Saints  and  the  Virgin,  to  suit  the  taste  of  good 
Catholics.  It  might  have  been  fancied  that  the  renowned  Sam 
Slick,  having  glutted  all  other  markets  with  his  wares,  had  made 
a  voyage  to  St.  Antonio.  Nor  did  they  lack  a  proper  artist  to 
keep  the  machine  in  order.  We  met  here  a  person  whom  we  at 
first  mistook  for  a  native,  so  identical  were  his  manners  and 
appearance  with  those  of  the  inhabitants;  until,  in  conversation, 
we  found  him  to  be  a  Yankee,  who  had  run  away  from  a  whale- 
ship,  and  established  himself  as  a  clock  and  watch-maker. 

After  a  good  night's  rest,  another  officer  and  myself  left 
Paolo,  early,  for  a  mountain  ride.  The  little  pilot  led  the  way 
on  a  donkey ;  my  friend  followed  on  a  mule,  and  I  brought  up 
the  rear  on  horseback.  We  began  to  ascend,  winding  along  the 
rocky  path,  one  by  one,  there  being  no  room  to  ride  two  abreast. 
The  road  had  been  cut  with  much  labor,  and,  in  some  places, 
was  hollowed  out  of  the  side  of  the  cliff,  thus  forming  a  gallery 
of  barely  such  height  and  width  as  to  admit  the  passage  of  a 
single  horseman,  and  with  a  low  wall  of  loose  stones  between 
the  path  and  the  precipice.  At  other  points,  causeways  of  small 
stones  and  earth  had  been  built  up,  perhaps  twenty  feet  high, 
along  the  top  of  which  ran  the  path.  On  looking  at  these  places 
from  some  projecting  point,  it  made  us  shudder  to  think  that  we 
had  just  passed,  where  the  loosening  of  a  single  one  of  those 
small  stones  might  have  carried  us  down  hundreds  of  feet,  to 
certain  destruction,  The  whole  of  the  way  was  rude  and  bar 
ren.  Here  and  there  a  few  shrubs  grew  in  the  crevices  of  the 
rocks,  or  wild  flowers,  of  an  aspect  strange  to  our  eyes,  wasted 
their  beauty  in  solitude ;  and  the  small  orchilla  weed  spread 
itself  moss-like  over  the  face  of  the  cliff.  At  one  remarkable 
point,  the  path  ran  along  the  side  of  the  precipice,  about  midway 
of  its  height.  Above,  the  rock  rose  frowningly,  at  least  five 
hundred  feet  over  our  heads.  Below,  it  fell  perpendicularly 
down  to  the  beach.  The  roar  of  the  sea  did  not  reach  us,  at  our 


CHA.P.  iv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISKR  29 

diy./y  height,  and  the  heavy  surf- waves,  in  which  no  boat  could 
live,  seemed  to  kiss  the  shore  as  gently  as  the  ripple  of  a  summer- 
lake.  This  was  the  most  elevated  point  of  the  road,  which 
thence  began  to  descend ;  but  the  downward  track  was  as  steep 
and  far  more  dangerous.  At  times,  the  animals  actually  slid 
clown  upon  their  haunches.  In  other  places,  they  stept  from 
stone  to  stone,  down  steep  descents,  where  the  riders  were 
obliged  to  lie  backwards  flat  upon  the  cruppers. 

Over  all  these  difficulties,  our  guide  urged  his  donkey  gaily 
and  unconcernedly.  As  for  myself,  though  I  have  seen  plenty 
of  rough  riding,  and  am  as  ready  as  most  men  to  follow,  if  not 
to  lead,  I  thought  it  no  shame  to  dismount  more  than  once.  The 
rolling  of  a  stone,  or  the  parting  of  stirrup,  girth,  or  crupper, 
would  have  involved  the  safety  of  one's  neck.  Nor  did  the  very 
common  sight  of  wooden  crosses  along  the  path,  indicating  sud 
den  death  by  accident  or  crime,  tend  to  lessen  the  sense  of  inse 
curity.  The  frequent  casualties  among  these  precipitous  paths, 
together  with  the  healthfulness  of  the  climate,  have  made  it  a 
proverb,  that  it  is  a  natural  death,  at  St.  Antonio,  to  be  dashed 
to  pieces  on  the  rocks.  But  such  was  not  our  fate.  We  at 
length  readied  the  sea-shore,  and  rode  for  a  mile  along  the 
beach  to  the  city  of  Poverson,  before  entering  which  metropolis, 
it  was  necessary  to  cross  a  space  of  level,  sandy  ground,  about 
two  hundred  yards  in  extent.  Here  the  little  pilot  suddenly 
stuck  his  heels  into  the  sides  of  his  donkey,  and  dashed  onward 
at  a  killing  pace;  while  mule  and  horse  followed  hard  upon  his 
track,  to  the  great  admiration  of  ragamuffins,  who  had  assem 
bled  to  witness  the  entree  of  the  distinguished  party. 

Poverson  is  the  capital  of  the  island,  and  contains  about  two 
thousand  inhabitants,  who,  with  few  exceptions,  are  people  of 
color.  The  streets  are  crooked  and  narrow,  and  the  houses 
mean.  We  called  upon  the  military  and  civil  Governors,  and, 
after  accepting  an  invitation  to  dine  with  the  former,  left  the 
place  for  a  further  expedition.  Passing  over  a  shallow  river,  in 
which  a  number  of  women  and  girls  were  washing  clothes,  we 
ascended  a  hill  so  steep  as  to  oblige  us  to  dismount,  and  from  the 
summit  of  which  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  rich  valley  beneath. 
It  is  by  far  the  most  extensive  tract  of  cultivated  land  that  we 


30  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 

have  seen  in  the  island,  and  is  improved  to  its  utmost  capacity. 
We  thence  rode  three  miles  over  a  path  of  the  same  description 
as  before,  and  arrived  at  the  village  and  port  of  Point-de-Sol. 
The  land  about  this  little  town  is  utterly  barren,  and  the  inha 
bitants  are  dependent  on  Poverson  for  food,  with  the  exception  of 
fish.  A  custom-house,  a  single  store,  a  church,  and  some 
twenty  houses  of  fishermen,  comprise  all  the  notable  character 
istics  of  the  principal  seaport  of  the  island. 

It  was  a  part  of  our  duty  to  make  an  examination  of  the  har 
bor,  for  which  purpose  we  needed  a  boat.  Two  were  hauled 
up  on  the  beach ;  but  the  smallest  would  have  required  the 
power  of  a  dozen  men  to  launch  her  ; — whereas,  the  fishermen 
being  absent  in  their  vocation,  our  party  of  three,  and  a  big  boy 
at  the  store,  comprised  our  whole  available  masculine  strength. 
The  aid  of  woman,  however,  is  seldom  sought  in  vain ;  nor  did 
it  fail  us  now.  Old  and  young,  matron  and  maid,  they  all  sal 
lied  forth  to  lend  a  hand,  and,  with  such  laughing  and  scream 
ing  as  is  apt  to  attend  feminine  efforts,  enabled  us  to  launch  the 
boat.  In  spite  of  their  patois  of  bad  Portuguese,  we  contrived 
to  establish  a  mutual  understanding.  A  fine,  tall  girl,  with  a 
complexion  of  deep  olive,  clear,  large  eyes,  and  teeth  beautifully 
white  and  even,  stood  by  my  side ;  and,  like  the  Ancient  Mari 
ner  and  his  sister's  son,  we  pulled  together.  She  was  strong, 
and,  as  Byron  says,  "  lovely  in  her  strength."  This  difficulty 
surmounted,  we  rowed  round  the  harbor,  made  our  examination, 
and  returned  to  the  beach,  where  we  again  received  the  volun 
tary  assistance  of  the  women,  in  dragging  the  boat  beyond  the 
reach  of  the  waves.  We  now  adjourned  to  the  store,  in  order  to 
requite  their  kindness  by  a  pecuniary  offering.  Each  of  our  fair 
friends  received  two  large  copper  coins,  together  equal  to  nine 
cents,  and  were  perfectly  satisfied,  as  well  they  might  be — for  it 
was  the  price  of  a  day's  work.  Two  or  three  yidividuals, 
moreover,  "  turned  double  corners,"  and  were  paid  twice ;  and 
It  is  my  private  belief  that  the  tall  beauty  received  her  two  cop 
pers  three  limes  over. 

After  a  lunch  of  fried  plantains  and  eggs,  we  rode  back  to 
Poverson.  On  the  way,  we  met  several  persons  of  both  sexes 
with  burdens  on  their  heads,  and  noticed  that  our  guide  fre- 


CHAP  iv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  31 


quently  accosted  therewith  a  request  for  a  pinch  of  snuff.  With 
few  exceptions,  a  horn  or  piece  of  bono  was  produced,  con 
taining  a  fine  yellow  snuff  of  home-manufacture,  which,  instead 
of  being  taken  between  the  thumb  and  finger,  was  poured  into 
the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  thence  conveyed  to  the  nose.  Arriv 
ing  at  the  city,  we  proceeded  at  once  to  the  house  of  the  Com 
mandant,  and  in  a  little  time  were  seated  at  dinner. 

Our  host  was  fitted  by  nature  to  adorn  a  far  more  brilliant 
position  than  that  which  he  occupied,  as  the  petty  commander 
of  a  few  colored  soldiers,  in  a  little  island  of  the  torrid  zone. 
He  was  slightly  made,  but  perfectly  proportioned,  with  a  face 
of  rare  beauty,  and  an  expression  at  once  noble  and  pleasing. 
His  eyes  were  large,  and  full  of  a  dark  light ;  his  black  hair 
and  moustache  were  trimmed  with  a  care  that  showed  him  not 
insensible  of  his  personal  advantages ;  as  did  likewise  his 
braided  jacket,  fitting  so  closely  as  to  set  off  his  fine  figure  to 
the  best  effect.  His  manners  were  in  a  high  degree  polished  and 
graceful.  One  of  the  guests,  whom  he  had  invited  to  meet  us, 
understood  English ;  and  the  conversation  was  sustained  in  that 
language,  and  in  Spanish.  The  dinner  was  cooked  and  served 
in  the  Portuguese  style;  it  went  off  very  pleasantly,  and  was 
quite  as  good  as  could  be  expected  at  the  house  of  a  bachelor, 
in  a  place  so  seldom  visited  by  strangers.  Each  of  the  Por 
tuguese  gentlemen  gave  a  sentiment,  prefaced  by  a  short  com 
plimentary  speech ;  and  our  party,  of  course,  reciprocated  in 
little  speeches  of  the  same  nature.  The  Commandant  did  not 
fail  to  express  the  gratitude  due  from  the  people  of  the  Cape  de 
Verd  islands  to  America,  for  assistance  in  the  hour  of  need. 
Time  did  not  permit  us  to  remain  long  at  table,  and  we  took 
leave,  highly  delighted  with  our  entertainment. 

Mounting  again,  we  rode  out  of  town  more  quietly  than  we 
had  entered  it.  A  sergeant  was  drilling  some  twenty  negro 
soldiers  in  marching  and  wheeling.  His  orders  were  given  in  a 
quick,  loud  tone,  and  enforced  by  the  occasional  application  of 
smart  blows  of  a  rattan  to  the  shoulders  of  his  men.  Suspect 
ing  that  the  blows  fell  thicker  because  uc  \\vro  witnesses  of  his 
discipline,  it  seemed  a  point  of  humanity  to  hasten  forward  ; 
especially  as  the  approach  of  night  threatened  to  make  our 


32  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  iv. 

journey  still  more  perilous  than  before.  After  riding  about 
three  miles,  we  met  two  well-dressed  mulatto  women  on  donkeys, 
accompanied  by  their  cavaliers.  Of  course,  we  allowed  the 
ladies  to  pass  between  us  and  the  rock ;  a  matter  of  no  slight 
courtesy  in  such  a  position,  where  there  was  a  very  uncomfort 
able  hazard  of  being  jostled  headlong  down  the  precipice.  We 
escaped,  however,  and  spurring  onward  through  the  gloom  of 
night,  passed  unconsciously  over  several  rough  spots  where  we 
had  dismounted  in  the  morning.  The  last  mile  of  our  mountain- 
ride  was  lighted  by  the  moon ;  and,  as  we  descended  the  last 
hill,  the  guide  gave  a  shrill  whistle,  to  which  the  boat's  crew 
responded  with  three  cheers  for  our  return. 

A  good  night's  rest  relieved  us  of  our  fatigue.  The  following 
morning,  with  a  fair  breeze  and  a  six  hours'  sail,  we  reached 
our  floating-home,  and  have  ever  since  entertained  the  mess- 
table  with  the  "  yarn  "  of  our  adventures ;  until  now  the  subject 
is  beginning  to  be  worn  thread-bare.  But,  as  the  interior  of  the 
island  of  St.  Antonio  is  one  of  the  few  regions  of  the  earth  as 
yet  uncelebrated  by  voyagers  and  tourists,  I  cannot  find  in  my 
heart  to  spare  the  reader  a  single  sentence  of  the  foregoing 
narrative. 


CHAP,  v.]  AFRICAN 


CHAPTER  V. 

Arrival  of  the  Macedonian — Return  to  the  Coast  of  Africa — Emigrants  to 
Liberia — Tornadoes — Maryland  in  Liberia — Nature  of  its  (Jnvi  rmnent — 
Perils  of  the  Bar — Mr.  Russwurm — The  Grebo  Tribe — Manner  of  dis 
posing  of  their  Dead. 

September  9. — WEIGHED  anchor,  and  stood  out  to  sea.  At 
8  o'clock  A.  M.,  made  the  frigate  Macedonian.  She  saluted 
the  broad  pennant,  and  both  ships  bore  up  for  Porto  Grande, 
where  wo  anchored,  and  read  the  news  from  home. 

11. — The  Commodore  left  the  ship,  and  hoisted  his  broad  pen 
nant  on  board  the  Macedonian. 

16. — Sailed  at  6  o'clock  P.  M.,  for  Porto  Praya. 

17. — Anchored  at  Porto  Praya,  where  we  find  the  Decatur, 
which  arrived  yesterday,  after  a  passage  of  forty-five  days  from 
Norfolk. 

22. — Sailed  in  the  evening  for  the  coast. 

October  7.— Off  Cape  Mount. 

8. — Ashore  at  Monrovia.  It  being  Sunday,  we  attended  the 
Methodist  Church.  Mr.  Teage,  editor  of  the  Liberia  Herald, 
preached  an  appropriate  and  well-written  discourse,  on  occasion 
of  admitting  three  men  and  a  woman  to  church-membership. 
One  of  the  males  was  a  white,  who  had  married  a  colored  wo 
man  in  America,  and  came  out  to  the  colony  with  Mr.  McDo- 
nough's  people,  some  time  ago.  His  wife  being  dead,  he  has 
married  another  woman  of  color,  and  is  determined  to  live  and 
die  here. 

10. — Dined  with  the  Governor.  Visited  the  house  of  a  poor 
colonist,  a  woman  with  two  children  and  no  husband.  She 
endeavors  to  support  her  family  by  washing.  Two  or  three 
other  women  of  the  neighborhood  dropped  in.  It  is  said  that  the 
proportion  of  female  emigrants  to  males  is  as  three  and  a  half 
to  one.  Unless  it  be  expected  that  these  women  are  to  work  in 
the  fields,  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  how  they  are  to  earn  a  sub- 


34  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  v. 

sistence.  A  little  chance  washing  and  sewing,  not  enough  to 
employ  one  in  ten,  is  all  they  have  to  depend  upon.  The  con 
sequence  is,  that  every  person,  of  even  moderate  means  of 
living,  has  two  or  three  women  to  feed  and  clothe.  They  do 
not  need  tfieir  services,  but  cannot  let  them  starve.  This  is  one 
of  the  drawbacks  upon  Colonization. 

Even  the  able-bodied  men  are  generally  unfit  for  promoting 
the  prosperity  of  the  colony.  A  very  large  proportion  of  them 
are  slaves,  just  liberated.  Accustomed  to  be  ruled  and  taken 
care  of  by  others,  they  are  no  better  than  mere  children,  as  respects 
the  conduct  and  economy  of  life.  In  America,  their  clothes, 
food,  medicines,  and  all  other  necessaries,  have  been  furnished 
without  a  thought  on  their  own  part ;  and  when  sent  to  Liberia, 
with  high  notions  of  freedom  and  exemption  from  labor  (ideas 
which  with  many  are  synonymous),  they  prove  totally  inadequate 
to  sustain  themselves.  I  perceive,  in  Colonization  reports,  that 
the  owners  of  slaves  frequently  offer  to  liberate  them,  on  condi 
tion  of  their  being  sent  to  Liberia ;  and  that  the  Society  has 
contracted  debts,  and  embarrassed  itself  in  various  ways,  rather 
than  let  such  offers  pass.  In  my  opinion,  many  of  the  slaves, 
thus  offered,  are  of  little  value  to  the  donors,  and  of  even  less  to 
the  cause  of  Colonization.  Better  to  discriminate  carefully  in 
the  selection  of  emigrants,  than  to  send  out  such  numbers  of  the 
least  eligible  class,  to  become  burdens  upon  the  industrious  and 
intelligent,  who  might  otherwise  enjoy  comfort  and  independence. 
Many  a  colonist,  at  this  moment,  sacrifices  his  interest  to  his 
humanity,  and  feels  himself  kept  back  in  life  by  the  urgent 
claims  of  compassion. 

The  Society  allows  to  new  emigrants  provisions  for  six  months. 
After  that  period,  if  unable  to  take  care  of  themselves,  they  must 
either  starve,  or  be  supported  by  the  charitable.  Fifty  youtog  or 
middle-aged  men,  who  had  been  accustomed  to  self-guidance  in 
America,  would  do  more  to  promote  the  prosperity  of  the  colony, 
than  five  hundred  such  emigrants  as  are  usually  sent  out.  The 
thievish  propensity  of  many  of  the  poor  and  indolent  colonists  is 
much  complained  of  by  the  industrious.  On  this  account,  more 
than  any  other,  it  is  difficult  to  raise  stock.  The  vice  has  been 
acquired  in  America,  and  is  not  forgotten  in  Africa. 


CHAP,  v.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  35 

13. — A  rainy  morning.  Last  night  we  wore  all  roused  from 
sleep  by  the  sea  coming  into  the  starboard  air-ports.  We  of  the 
larboard  side  laughed  at  the  misfortune  of  our  comrades,  and 
closed  our  own  ports,  without  taking  the  precaution  to  screw 
them  in.  Half  an  hour  afterwards,  a  very  heavy  swell  assailed 
us  on  the  larboard,  beat  in  all  the  loose  ports,  and  deluged  the 
rooms.  I  found  myself  suddenly  awakened  and  cooled  by  a 
cataract  of  water  pouring  over  me.  Out  jumped  the  larboard 
sleepers,  in  dripping  night-gear,  and  shouted  lustily  for  lights, 
buckets,  and  swabs ;  while  the  starboard  gentlemen  laughed 
long  and  loud,  in  their  turn. 

14. — Sailed  for  the  leeward. 

17. — Beautiful  weather.  This  afternoon  all  hands  were  called 
to  shorten  sail,  in  those  earnest,  startling  tones,  which  are 
prompted  by  the  sense  of  danger  alone.  Every  man  sprang  to 
his  station  with  the  instinctive  readiness  of  disciplined  seamen. 
The  idlers  were  all  on  deck,  and  looked  about  for  the  cause. 
Had  a  man  fallen  overboard  ?  No  !  Nor  was  there  any  par 
ticular  appearance  of  a  squall.  But  the  earnest  gaze  of  the 
commander  and  a  passenger,  towards  the  shore,  drew  all  eyes 
in  the  same  direction  ;  and,  behold  !  a  smoke  was  seen  rising 
from  the  land,  which  had  been  mistaken  for  the  cloud  that  pre 
cedes  the  tornado.  It  is  necessary  to  prepare  for  many  blows 
that  do  not  come.  In  the  tornado-seasons  (which  may  be  esti 
mated  at  four  or  five  weeks,  about  the  months  of  March  and 
November),  there  are  frequent  appearances  of  squalls,  some 
times  as  often  as  twice  or  thrice  in  twenty-four  hours.  The 
horizon  grows  black,  with  very  much  the  aspect  of  a  thunder- 
shower  in  America.  Generally,  the  violence  of  the  wind  does 
not  equal  the  apprehensions  always  entertained.  We  could 
have  carried  royals  through  nineteen  out  of  twenty  of  the  tor 
nadoes  that  assailed  our  ship  ;  but  the  twentieth  might  have 
taken  the  sticks  out  of  us.  The  harmless,  as  well  as  the  heavy 
tornadoes,  have  the  same  black  and  threatening  aspect.  They 
usually  blow  from  the  land,  although  once,  while  at  anchor,  we 
experienced  one  from  seaward. 

19. — Anchored  at  Cape  Palmas.  This  colony  is  independent 
of  Liberia  proper,  and  is  under  the  jurisdiction  and  patronage 


36  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  v. 

of  the  Maryland  State  Colonization  Society.  Its  title  is  Mary- 
land  in  Liberia.  The  local  government  is  composed  of  an 
agent  and  an  assistant  agent,  both  to  be  appointed  by  the  Society 
at  home,  for  two  years ;  a  secretary,  to  be  appointed  by  the  agent 
annually ;  and  a  vice-agent,  two  counsellors,  a  register,  a 
sheriff,  a  treasurer,  and  a  committee  on  new  emigrants,  to  be 
chosen  by  the  people.  Several  minor  officers  are  appointed  by 
the  agent,  who  is  entrusted  with  great  powers.  The  judiciary 
consists  of  the  agent,  and  a  competent  number  of  justices  of  the 
peace,  who  are  appointed  by  him,  and  two  of  whom,  together 
with  the  agent,  constitute  the  Supreme  Court.  A  single  justice 
has  jurisdiction  in  small  criminal  cases,  and  in  all  civil  cases 
where  the  claim  does  not  exceed  twenty  dollars. 

Male  colored  people,  at  twenty  years  of  age,  are  entitled  to 
vote,  if  they  hold  land  in  their  own  right,  or  pay  a  tax  of  one 
dollar.  Every  emigrant  must  sign  a  pledge  to  support  the  con 
stitution,  and  to  refrain  from  the  use  of  ardent  spirits',  except  in 
case  of  sickness.  By  a  provision  of  the  constitution,  emigration 
is  never  to  be  prohibited. 

Our  boat  attempted  to  land  at  some  rocks,  just  outside-of  the 
port,  in  order  to  avoid  crossing  the  bar  ;  but  as  the  tide  was  low, 
and  the  surf  troublesome,  we  found  it  impracticable.  I  hate  a 
bar;  there  is  no  fair  play  about  it.  The  long  rollers  come  in 
from  the  sea,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  shallowness  of  the  wa 
ter,  seem  to  pile  themselves  up  so  as  inevitably  to  overwhelm 
you,  unless  you  have  skilful  rowers,  a  good  helmsman,  and  a 
lively  boat.  At  one  moment,  your  keel,  perhaps,  touches  the 
sand ;  the  next,  you  are  lifted  upon  a  wave  and  borne  swiftly 
along  for  many  yards,  while  the  men  lie  on  their  oars,  or  only 
pull  an  occasional  stroke,  to  keep  the  boat's  head  right.  Now 
they  give  way  with  a  will,  to  escape  a  white-crested  wave  that 
comes  trembling  and  roaring  after  them  ;  and  now  again  they 
cease  rowing,  or  back  water,  awaiting  a  favorable  moment  to 
cross.  Should  you  get  into  a  trough  of  the  sea,  you  stand  a 
very  pretty  chance  to  be  swamped,  and  have  your  boat  rolled 
over  and  over  upon  its  crew  ;  while,  perchance,  a  hungry  shark 
may  help  himself  to  a  leg  or  arm. 

Pulling  across  this  ugly  barrier,  we  landed  at  the  only  wharf 


CHAP,  v.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  37 


of  which  the  colony  can  boast.  There  is  here  a  stone  warp- 
house,  but  of  no  great  si/.e.  In  front  of  it  lay  a  large  log,  some 
thirty  feet  long,  on  which  twelve  or  fourtoen  full  grown  natives 
were  roosting,  precisely  like  turkeys  on  a  pole.  They  are  ac 
customed  to  sit  for  hours  together  in  this  position,  resting  upon 
their  heels.  A  girl  presented  us  with  a  note,  informing  all  whom 

it  might  concern,  that  Mrs. would  do  our  washing  ;  but,  as 

the  ship's  stay  was  to  be  short,  we  turned  our  attention  to — the 
cattle,  of  which  a  score  or  two  were  feeding  in  the  vicinity. 
They  are  small,  but,  having  been  acclimated,  are  sleek  and 
well-conditioned.  As  I  have  before  observed,  it  is  a  well-es 
tablished  fact,  that  all  four-footed  emigrants  are  not  less  subject 
to  the  coast. fever  than  bipeds.  Horses,  cattle,  and  even  fowls, 
whether  imported  or  brought  from  the  interior  to  the  coast,  speed 
ily  sicken,  and  often  die. 

I  dined  with  Mr.  Russwurm,  the  colonial  agent,  a  man  of  dis 
tinguished  ability  and  of  collegiate  education.  He  gave  me 
some  monkey-skins  and  other  curiosities,  and  favored  me  with 
much  information  respecting  the  establishment.  The  n.run 
temperature  of  the  place  is  eighty  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  which 
is  something  less  than  that  of  Monrovia,  on  account  of  its  being 
more  open  to  the  sea.  The  colony  comprises  six  hundred  and 
fifty  inhabitants,  all  of  whom  dwell  within  four  miles  of  the 
Cape.  Besides  the  settlement  of  Harper,  situated  on  the  Cape 
it^i-lf.  there  is  that  of  Mount  Tubman  (named  in  honor  of  Mr. 
T.  of  Georgia),  which  lies  beyond  Mount  Vaughan,  and  three 
and  a  half  miles  from  Cape  Palmas.  There  is  no  road  to  the 
interior  of  the  country,  except  a  native  path.  The  agent,  with 
a  party  of  twenty,  recently  penetrated  about  seventy  miles  into 
the  Bush,  passing  through  two  tribes,  and  coming  to  a  third,  of 
large  numbers  and  strength.  The  king  of  the  latter  tribe  has 
a  larjre  town,  where  many  manufactures  are  carried  on,  such 
as  iron  implements  and  wooden  furniture  of  various  kinds.  He 
refused  Mr.  Russwurm  an  escort,  alleging  that  there  was  war, 
but  sent  his  son  to  the  coast,  to  see  the  black-ichitc  people  and 
their  improvements. 

A  large  native  tribe,  the  Grebo,  dwells  at  Cape  Palmas  in 
the  midst  of  the  colonists.  Their  conical  huts,  to  the  number  of 


38  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  v. 

some  hundreds,  present  the  most  interesting  part  of  the  scene. 
Opposite  the  town,  upon  an  uninhabited  island  at  no  great  dis 
tance,  the  dead  are  exposed,  clad  in  their  best  apparel,  and 
furnished  with  food,  cloth,  crockery,  and  other  articles.  A  ca 
noe  is  placed  over  the  body.  This  island  of  the  dead  is  called 
by  a  name,  which,  in  the  plainest  of  English,  signifies  "  Go-to- 
Hell ;"  a  circumstance  that  seems  to  imply  very  gloomy  antici 
pations  as  to  the  fate  of  their  deceased  brethren,  on  the  part  of 
these  poor  Grebos.  As  a  badge  of  mourning,  they  wear  cloth 
of  dark  blue,  instead  of  gayer  colors.  Dark  blue  is  universally, 
along  the  coast,  the  hue  indicative  of  mourning. 

The  Fishmen,  at  Cape  Palmas,  as  well  as  at  most  other 
places  on  the  coast,  refuse  to  sell  fish  to  be  eaten  on  board  of 
vessels,  believing  that  the  remains  of  the  dead  fish  will  frighten 
away  the  living  ones. 

21. — Sailed  at  5  o'clock  A.  M.,  with  a  good  wind,  and  anchor 
ed  at  Sinoe  at  6  P.  M. 


CHAP,  vi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  39 


.         CHAPTER  VI. 

Settlement  of  Since — Account  of  a  murder  by  the  natives — Arrival  at  Mon 
rovia — Appearance  of  the  town — Temperance — Law-suits  and  Pleadings 
— Kxprdition  up  the  St.  Paul's  river — Remarks  on  the  cultivation  of  su 
gar — Prospects  of  the  cofl'ee-culture  in  Liberia — Desultory  observations 
on  agriculture. 

October  22. — AT  Since.  Mr.  Morris,  the  principal  man  of  the 
settlement,  came  on  board,  in  order  to  take  passage  with  us  to 
Monrovia.  He  informs  us  that  there  are  but  seventy-two  colo 
nists  here  at  present,  but  that  nearly  a  hundred  are  daily  «  x- 
pected.  Such  an  accession  of  .strength  is  much  needed;  for  the 
natives  in  the  vicinity  are  powerful,  and  not  very  friendly,  and 
the  colony  is  too  weak  to  chastise  them.  Our  appearance  has 
caused  them  some  alarm.  This  is  the  place  where  the  mate  of 
an  American  vessel  was  harpooned,  some  months  since,  by  the 
Fishmen.  We  shall  hold  a  palaver  about  it,  when  the  Com 
modore  joins  us. 

We  left  Sinoe  at  7  o'clock,  P.  M. 

23.  Mr.  Morris  has  been  narrating  the  circumstances  of  the 
murder  of  the  American  mate,  at  Sinoe,  in  reference  to  which 
we  are  to  "set  a  palaver."  "Palaver,"  by-the-by,  is  probably 
a  corruption  of  the  Portuguese  word,  "  Palabra."  As  used  by 
the  natives,  it  has  many  significations,  among  which  is  that  of 
an  open  quarrel.  To  "  set  a  palaver,"  is  to  bring  it  to  a  final 
issue,  cither  by  talking  or  fighting. 

The  story  of  the  murder  is  as  follows.  A  Fishman  agreed 
to  go  down  the  coast  with  Captain  Burke,  who  paid  him  his 
wages  in  advance  ;  on  receiving  which,  the  fellow  jumped  over 
board,  and  escaped.  The  captain  then  refused  to  pay  the  sums 
due  to  two  members  of  the  same  tribe,  unless  the  first  should 
refund  the  money.  Finding  the  threat  insufficient,  he  endeav 
ored  to  entice  these  two  natives  on  board  his  vessel,  by  promises 


40  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vi. 


of  payment,  but  ineffectually.  Meanwhile,  the  mate  going 
ashore  with  a  colonist,  his  boat  was  detained  by  the  natives, 
during  the  night,  but  given  up  the  next  morning,  at  the  interces 
sion  of  the  inhabitants.  The  mate  returned  on  board,  in  a  vio 
lent  rage,  and  sent  a  sailor  to  catch  a  Fishman,  on  whom  to 
take  vengeance.  But  the  man  caught  a  Tartar,  and  was  him 
self  taken  ashore  as  prisoner.  The  mate  and  cook  then  went 
out  in  a  boat,  and  were  attacked  by  a  war-canoe,  the  men  in 
which  harpooned  the  cook,  and  stripping  the  mate  naked,  threw 
him  overboard.  They  beat  the  poor  fellow  off,  as  he  attempted 
to  seize  hold  of  the  canoe,  and,  after  torturing  him  for  some 
time,  at  length  harpooned  him  in  the  back.  Captain  Burke, 
having  but  one  man  and  two  passengers  left,  made  sail,  and  got 
away  as  fast  as  possible. 

23. — -Arrived  at  Monrovia,  where  we  find  the  Porpoise,  with 
six  native  prisoners  on  board,  who  were  taken  at  Bercbee,  as 
being  concerned  in  the  murder  of  Captain  Farwell  and  his 
crew,  two  years  ago.  To  accomplish  their  capture,  the  Porpoise 
was  disguised  as  a  barque,  with  only  four  or  five  men  visible  on 
deck,  and  these  in  Scotch  caps  and  red  shirts,  so  as  to  resemble 
the  crew  of  a  merchant- vessel.  The  first  canoe  approached,  and 
Prince  Jumbo  stepped  boldly  up  the  brig's  side,  but  started  back 
into  his  boat,  the  moment  that  he  saw  the  guns  and  martial 
equipment  on  deck.  The  Kroomen  of  the  Porpoise,  however, 
jumped  into  the  water  and  upset  the  canoe,  making  prisoners  of 
the  four  natives  whom  it  contained.  Six  or  eight  miles  further 
along  the  coast,  the  brig  being  under  sail,  another  canoe  came 
off  with  two  natives,  who  were  likewise  secured.  The  Kroomen 
begged  to  be  allowed  to  kill  the  prisoners,  as  they  were  of  a 
hostile  tribe. 

28. — Leaving  the  ship  in  one  of  our  boats,  pulled  by  Kroomen, 
we  crossed  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mesurado,  and  in  ten 
minutes  afterwards,  were  alongside  of  the  colonial  wharf.  Half- 
a-dozen  young  natives  and  colonists  issued  from  a  small  house 
to  watch  our  landing  ;  but  their  curiosity  was  less  intrusive  and 
annoying,  than  would  have  been  that  of  the  same  number  of  New- 
York  boys,  at  the  landing  of  a  foreign  man-of-war's  boat.  On 
our  part,  we  looked  around  us  with  the  interest  which  even  com- 


CHAP,  vi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  41 


mon-place  objects  possess  for  those,  whose  daily  spectacle  is 
nothing  more  varied  than  the  sea  and  sky.  Kven  the  most  or 
dinary  shore-scenery  becomes  captivating,  after  a  week  or  two 
on  shipboard.  Two  colonists  were  sawing  plank  in  the  shade 
of  the  large  stone  store-house  of  the  colony.  Ascending  the  hill, 
we  passed  the  printing-office  of  the  Liberia  Herald,  where  two 
workmen  were  printing  the  colonial  laws.  The  publication  of 
the  newspaper  had  been  suspended  for  nearly  three  months,  to 
enable  them  to  accomplish  work  of  more  pressing  importance. 
Proceeding  onward,  we  came  to  the  Governor's  house,  and  were 
received  with  that  gentleman's  usual  courtesy.  The  house  is 
well  furnished,  and  arranged  for  a  hot  climate ;  it  is  situated 
near  the  highest  point  of  the  principal  street,  and  commands 
from  its  piazza  a  view  of  most  of  the  edifices  in  Monrovia  town. 

The  fort  is  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  village,  one  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea  ;  it  is  of  stone,  triangular  in  shape,  and  has 
a  good  deal  the  appearance  of  an  American  pound  for  cattle,  but 
is  substantial,  and  adequate  for  its  intended  purposes.  From 
this  point,  the  street  descends  in  both  directions.  About  fifty 
houses  are  in  view.  First,  the  Government  House,  opposite  to 
which  stand  the  neat  dwellings  of  Judge  Benedict  and  Doctor 
Day.  Further  on,  you  perceive  the  largest  house  in  the  village, 
erected  by  Rev.  Mr.  Williams,  of  the  Methodist  mission.  On 
the  right  is  a  one-story  brick  house,  and  two  or  three  wooden 
ones.  A  large  stone  edifice,  intended  for  a  Court-House  and 
Legislative  Hall,  has  recently  been  completed.  The  street 
itself  is  wide  enough  for  a  spacious  pasture,  and  affords  abun 
dance  of  luxuriant  grass,  through  which  run  two  or  three  well- 
trodden  foot-paths.  Apart  from  the  village,  on  the  Cape,  we 
discerned  the  light-house,  the  base  of  which  is  about  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea. 

We  dined  to-day  at  the  New  Hotel.  The  dinner  was  ill- 
cooked  (an  unpardonable  fault  at  Monrovia,  where  good  cooks, 
formerly  in  the  service  of  our  southern  planters,  might  be  sup 
posed  to  abound),  and  not  served  up  in  proper  style.  But  there 
was  abundance  to  eat  and  drink.  Though  the  keeper  of  the 
house  is  a  clergyman  and  a  temperance-man,  ale,  porter,  wine, 
and  cherry-brandy,  are  to  be  had  at  fair  prices.  Three  years 


42  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vi. 

ago,  a  tavern  was  kept  here  in  Monrovia  by  a  Mr.  Cooper, 
whose  handbill  set  forth,  that  "  nothing  was  more  repugnant  to 
his  feelings  than  to  sell  ardent  spirits" — but  added — "if  gentle 
men  will  have  them,  the  following  is  the  price."  Of  course, 
after  such  a  salvo,  Mr.  Cooper  pocketed  the  profits  of  his  liquor- 
trade  with  a  quiet  conscience.  He  used  to  tell  me  that  a  little 
brandy  was  good  for  the  "  suggestion  ;"  but  I  fear  that  he  made, 
in  his  own  person,  too  large  a  demand  upon  its  suggestive  pro 
perties  ;  for  his  house  is  now  untenanted  and  ruinous,  and  he 
himself  has  carried  his  tender  conscience  to  another  settlement. 

30. — Went  ashore  in  the  second  cutter.  The  Kroomen  man 
aged  her  so  bunglingly,  that,  on  striking  the  beach,  she  swung 
broadside  to  the  sea.  In  this  position,  a  wave  rolled  into  her, 
half-filled  the  boat,  and  drenched  us  from  head  to  foot.  Appre 
hending  that  she  would  roll  over  upon  us,  and  break  our  limbs 
or  backs,  we  jumped  into  the  water,  and  waded  ashore. 

While  in  the  village,  I  visited  the  Court  House,  to  hear  the  trial 
of  a  cause  involving  an  amount  of  eight  hundred  dollars.  Gov 
ernor  Roberts  acted  as  judge,  and  displayed  a  great  deal  of 
dignity  in  presiding,  and  much  wisdom  and  good  sense  in  his  deci 
sion.  This  is  the  highest  court  of  the  Colony.  There  are  no  regu 
larly  educated  lawyers  in  Liberia,  devoting  themselves  exclu 
sively  to  the  profession  ;  but  the  pleading  seems  to  be  done 
principally  by  the  medical  faculty.  Two  Doctors  were  of 
counsel  in  the  case  alluded  to,  and  talked  of  Coke,  Blackstone, 
and  Kent,  as  learnedly  as  if  it  had  been  the  business  of  their  lives 
to  unravel  legal  mysteries.  The  pleadings  were  simple,  and  the 
arguments  brief,  for  the  judge  kept  them  strictly  to  the  point. 
An  action  for  slander  was  afterwards  tried,  in  which  the  damages 
were  laid  at  one  hundred  dollars.  One  of  the  medico-juris 
consults  opened  the  cause  with  an  appeal  to  the  feelings,  and 
wrought  his  own  sensibilities  to  such  a  pitch  as  to  declare,  that, 
though  his  client  asked  only  for  one  hundred  dollars,  he  consid 
ered  the  jury  bound  in  conscience  to  give  him  two.  The  Doctor 
afterwards  told  me  that  he  had  walked  eighty  miles  to  act  as 
counsel  in  this  court.  A  tailor  argued  stoutly  for  the  defendant, 
but  with  little  success  ;  his  client  was  fined  twenty  dollars. 

On  our  return,  a  companion  and  myself  took  passage  for  the 


CHAP,  vi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  43 

ship  in  a  native  canoe.  These  little  vessels  are  scooped  out  of 
a  log,  and  are  of  even  less  size  and  capacity  than  tlio  birch- 
canoes  of  our  Indians,  and  so  light  that  two  men,  using  each  a 
single  hand,  may  easily  carry  them  from  place  to  place.  Our 
weight  caused  the  frail  bark  to  sit  so  deep  in  the  water,  that, 
before  reaching  the  ship,  we  underwent  another  drenching. 
Three  changes  of  linen  in  one  day  are  altogether  too  expensive 
and  troublesome. 

November  1. — Went  up  the  St.  Paul's  river  on  a  pleasure 
excursion,  with  the  Governor,  and  several  men  of  lesser  note.  We 
touched  at  the  public  farm,  and  found  only  a  single  man  in 
charge.  The  sugar-cane  was  small  in  size,  was  ill-weeded,  and, 
to  my  eye,  did  not  appear  flourishing.  The  land  is  apparently 
good  and  suitable,  but  labor  is  deficient,  and  my  impressions  were 
not  favorable  in  regard  to  the  manner  of  cultivation.  The  mill 
was  exposed  to  the  atmosphere,  and  the  kettles  were  full  of  foul 
water.  We  landed  likewise  at  New  Georgia,  a  settlement  of 
recaptured  Africans.  There  was  here  a  pretty  good  appearance, 
both  of  people  and  farms.  We  called  also  at  Caldwell,  a  rich 
tract  of  level  land,  of  which  a  space  of  about  two  miles  is  cultivated 
by  comfortable  and  happy-looking  colonists.  A  very  pleasant 
dinner  was  furnished  by  the  Governor  at  what  was  once  a  great 
slave  station,  and  the  proprietor  of  which  is  still  hostile  to  the  colo 
nists,  and  to  both  English  and  Americans,  for  breaking  up  the 
trade.  We  saw  several  alligators.  One  of  them,  about  three  feet 
in  length,  lay  on  a  log,  with  his  mouth  wide  open,  catching  flies. 

From  the  whole  course  of  my  observation,  I  cannot  but  feel 
satisfied  that  the  colonists  are  better  off  here  than  in  America. 
They  are  more  independent,  as  healthy,  and  much  happier. 
Agriculture  will  doubtless  be  their  chief  employment,  but,  for 
years  to  come,  the  cultivation  of  sugar  cane  cannot  be  carried  to 
any  considerable  extent.  There  are  many  calls  upon  the  resources 
of  the  Colonization  Society  and  the  inhabitants,  more  pressing, 
and  which  promise  a  readier  and  greater  return.  A  large 
capital  should  be  invested  in  the  business,  in  order  to  render  it 
profitable.  The  want  of  a  steam- mill,  to  grind  the  cane,  has 
been  severely  felt.  Ignorance  of  the  most  appropriate  soil,  and 
of  the  most  productive  kind  of  cane,  and  the  best  methods  of 


44  JOURNAL  OF  AN  {CHAP.  vi. 

planting  and  grinding  it,  have  likewise  contributed  to  retard  the 
cultivation  of  sugar.  But  the  grand  difficulty  is  the  want  of  a 
ready  capital,  and  the  high  price  of  labor.  The  present  wages 
of  labor  are  from  sixty  to  seventy-five  cents  per  day.  The 
natives  refuse  to  work  among  the  canes,  on  account  of  the  prickly 
nature  of  the  leaves,  and  the  irritating  property  of  a  gum  that 
exudes  from  them.  Yet  it  may  be  doubted  whether  the  colony 
will  ever  make  sugar  to  any  important  extent,  unless  some 
method  be  found  to  apply  native  labor  to  that  purpose.  Private 
enterprise  is  no  more  successful  than  the  public  efforts.  A 
plantation  has  been  commenced  at  Millsburg,  and  prosecuted 
with  great  diligence,  but  with  no  auspicious  results.  Sugar  has 
been  made,  indeed,  but  at  a  cost  of  three  times  as  much,  per 
pound,  as  would  have  purchased  it. 

Hitherto,  the  plantations  of  Coffee  trees  have  not  succeeded 
well.  Coffee,  it  is  true,  is  sometimes  exported  from  Liberia;  and 
doubtless  the  friends  of  Colonization  drink  it  with  great  gusto, 
as  an  earnest  of  the  progress  of  their  philanthropic  work.  The 
cup,  however,  will  be  less  grateful  to  their  taste,  when  they  learn 
that  nearly  all  this  coffee  is  procured  at  the  islands  of  St.  Thomas 
and  St.  Prince's,  in  the  Bight  of  Benin,  and  entered  as  the 
produce  of  Liberia,  ad  captandum.  The  same  game  has  been 
played  in  England,  by  entering  their  coffee  as  from  Sierra  Leone 
or  Gambia,  to  entitle  it  to  the  benefit  of  the  lower  duties  on  co 
lonial  produce.  But  the  English  custom-house  officers  are  now 
aware  of  the  deception,  and  the  business  is  abandoned. 

The  mode  of  forming  a  coffee- plantation  is  simply  to  go  into 
the  woods  (where  the  tree  abounds),  select  the  wild  coffee  tree, 
and  transport  it  into  the  prepared  field.  The  indigenous  coffee- 
tree  of  Liberia  produces  fruit  of  a  superior  quality,  larger  and 
finer  flavored,  than  that  of  the  West  Indies.  But  the  cultivation, 
I  think,  is  conducted  upon  wrong  principles.  Instead  of  having 
large  plantations,  with  no  other  vegetables  on  the  land,  let  every 
man  intermingle  a  few  coffee  trees  with  the  corn,  cassada,  and 
other  vegetables  in  his  garden  or  fields.  These  few  trees, 
having  the  benefit  of  the  hoeing  and  manuring  bestowed  on  the 
other  crops,  will  produce  much  more  abundantly  and  with  less 


CUM     vi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  45 

trouble,  than  by  separate  culture.  In  fact,  after  setting  out  the 
trees,  tbere  will  be  no  trouble,  except  that  of  gathering  and  pre 
paring  the  berries  for  market.  In  this  burning  climate,  the 
shade  afforded  by  the  tree  will  be  beneficial  to  most  vegetables. 

The  want  of  success,  hitherto,  in  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  has 
been  attributed  by  some  to  the  custom  of  transplanting  the  trees 
from  the  forest,  instead  of  raising  them  from  seed.  The  colonial 
Secretary  is  now  making  trial  of  the  latter  method.  He  has 
several  thousand  young  trees  in  his  nursery,  and  will  soon  be  able 
to  test  the  comparative  efficiency  of  the  different  systems.  Not 
improbably,  the  cultivation  of  seedlings  may  be  found  preferable 
to  that  of  transplanted  trees  ;  but,  in  my  opinion,  the  great  ob 
stacle  to  success  has  been  the  deficiency  of  care  and  proper  ma 
nuring.  In  order  to  bear  well,  trees  require  to  have  the  ground 
enriched,  and  kept  free  from  weeds.  Failing  this,  the  plant  often 
dies,  and  never  flourishes  so  well  as  in  its  native  woods.  The 
inhabitants  of  Liberia  have  not  the  means  of  bestowing  the  re 
quisite  care  upon  the  cultivation  of  coffee,  on  an  extended  scale  ; 
and  I  say  boldly,  that  large  plantations,  in  that  region,  cannot 
compete  with  those  of  Brazil  and  the  West  Indies,  where  the 
plantations  are  well-stocked,  and  cultivated  by  slave-labor.  Free 
labor  in  Africa  will  not  soon  be  so  cheap  as  that  of  slaves  in 
other  countries.  Even  in  Cuba,  the  planters  can  barely  feed 
themselves  and  their  slaves,  by  the  culture  of  coffee.  How, 
then,  can  it  be  made  profitable  in  Liberia,  where  labor  commands 
so  high  a  price,  and  is  often  impossible  to  be  procured  ? 

As  incidental,  however,  to  other  branches  of  agriculture,  coffee 
may  be  advantageously  raised.  The  best  trees  are  those  seen 
in  gardens,  where,  from  ten  or  twelve,  more  berries  are  gathered 
than  from  hundreds  in  a  plantation.  A  single  tree,  in  the  gar 
den  of  Colonel  Hicks,  is  said  to  have  produced  sixteen  pounds  at 
a  gathering ;  and  I  have  seen  several  very  fine  trees  in  similar 
situations.  Fifty  or  a  hundred  trees,  well  selected,  and  pro 
perly  distributed  through  the  fields,  would  yield  several  hundred 
pounds  of  coffee,  which,  being  gathered  and  dried  by  the  women 
and  children,  would  be  gratuitous  as  regards  the  cost  of  labor. 
Thus,  the  coffee  culture,  in  Liberia,  must  be  considered  far 
more  eligible  than  that  of  sugar ;  inasmuch  as  the  latter  requires 


46  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vi. 

a  large  capital  and  extensive  operations,  while  the  former  suc 
ceeds  best  on  a  very  moderate  scale. 

Judge  Benedict  has  probably  bestowed  more  attention  on  this 
business,  than  any  other  person  in  Liberia.  He  is  a  man  of 
excellent  sense  and  information,  and  has  the  means  to  carry  out 
his  views,  as  well  as  the  patriotism  to  exert  himself  for  the  ad 
vantage  of  the  commonwealth.  With  these  qualifications,  he 
has  employed  five  or  six  years  in  the  experiment  of  raising 
coffee,  and  thus  far,  with  little  success,  although  his  plantation 
comprises  some  thousands  of  growing  trees.  In  the  spring  of 
1841.  he  made  presents,  to  myself  and  other  officers,  of  genuine 
Liberian  coffee,  in  small  native  bags,  containing  two  or  three 
pounds  each.  The  Judge  is  still  giving  away  little  bags  of  the 
same  kind  ;  but  I  do  not  yet  learn  that  his  crop  is  more  than 
sufficient  for  his  own  use,  and  for  distribution  as  specimens  ; 
certainly,  it  is  not  so  abundant  as  to  render  the  sale  of  it  an 
object.  As  for  the  plantation  itself,  I  must  confess  that  it  ap 
peared  to  me  more  flourishing  three  years  ago,  than  at  present. 
Most  of  the  trees,  on  the  spot  originally  planted,  are  dead,  and 
the  rest  in  a  sickly  condition  ;  while  the  most  thriving  trees  are 
to  be  seen  on  the  lower  and  damper  land  adjacent,  which,  at 
my  former  visit,  was  covered  with  a  dense  forest.  Beyond  a 
doubt,  the  coffee  tree  is  as  well  adapted  to  this  soil  and  climate 
as  to  those  of  Cuba,  and  produces  a  larger  and  better  flavored 
berry ;  but  I  repeat  my  opinion,  that  the  Liberian,  hiring 
laborers  at  sixty  cents  a  day,  cannot  compete  with  the  West 
Indian,  who  has  his  hundreds  of  slaves  already  paid  for,  and  his 
trees  growing  in  well-weeded  land.  The  mere  feeding,  I  might 
almost  say,  of  a  dozen  laborers  in  Liberia,  will  cost  more  than 
all  the  coffee  they  raise  would  re-imburse,  at  the  Cuba  prices. 

The  cultivation  of  rice  is  universal  in  Africa.  The  natives 
never  neglect  it,  for  fear  of  famine.  For  an  upland  crop,  the 
rice-lands  are  turned  over  and  planted  in  March  and  April.  In 
September  and  October,  the  rice  is  reaped,  beaten  out,  and 
cleaned  for  market  or  storing.  The  lowland  crop,  on  the  con 
trary,  is  planted  in  September,  October,  and  November,  in 
marshy  lands,  and  harvested  in  March  and  April.  Lands  will 
not  produce  two  successive  crops  without  manuring  and  plough- 


CHAP,  vi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  47 


ing.  About  two  bushels  of  seed  are  sown  to  the  acre;  and  the 
crop,  on  the  acre  of  upland,  is  about  thirty  Imshels,  and  from 
forty  to  forty-five  bushels  on  the  lowlands.  The  rice  is  trans 
ported  to  market  on  the  backs  of  natives,  packed  in  bundles  of 
about  three  feet  long  and  nine  inches  in  diameter.  The  wrap 
pers  are  made  of  large  leaves,  bound  together  by  cords  of  bark. 
The  load  is  sustained  by  shoulder-straps,  and  by  a  band,  passing 
round  the  forehead  of  the  bearer. 

Cassada  is  a  kind  of  yam,  and  sends  up  a  tall  stalk,  with  light 
green  leaves.  It  has  a  long  root,  looking  like  a  piece  of  wood 
with  the  brown  bark  on  ;  the  interior  is  white  and  mealy,  rather 
insipid,  but  nutritious,  and  invaluable  as  an  article  of  food.  It 
is  raised  from  the  seed,  root,  or  stem  ;  the  latter  being  considered 
preferable.  Its  yield  is  very  great.  In  six  months,  it  is  fit  to 
dig,  and  may  be  preserved  fifteen  or  eighteen  months  in  the 
ground,  but  ceases  to  be  eatable  in  three  or  four  days  after  being 
dug.  Tapioca  is  manufactured  from  this  root. 

Indian  corn  is  planted  in  May  and  harvested  in  September ; 
or,  if  planted  in  July,  it  ripens  in  November  and  December. 
Sweet  potatoes  constitute  one  of  the  main  reliances  of  the  colo 
nists  ;  they  are  raised  from  seeds,  roots  or  vines,  but  most  suc 
cessfully  from  the  latter.  The  season  of  planting  is  in  May,  or 
June,  and  the  crop  ripens  four  months  later.  Plantains  and 
bananas  are  a  valuable  product ;  they  are  propagated  from 
suckers,  which  yield  a  first  crop  in  about  a  year.  The  top  is 
cut  down,  and  new  stalks  spring  from  the  root.  Ground  nuts 
are  the  same  article  peddled  by  the  old  women  at  our  street- 
corners,  under  the  name  of  pea-nuts ;  so  called  from  the  close 
resemblance  of  the  bush  to  the  tops  of  the  sweet  pea.  This  nut 
is  used  in  England  for  making  oil.  The  Cocoa  is  a  bulbous 
root  of  the  size  of  a  tea-cup,  and  has  some  similarity  to  the 
artichoke.  Pine-apples,  small,  but  finely  flavored,  grow  wild  in 
the  woods,  and  are  abundant  in  their  season. 

In  concluding  these  very  imperfect  and  miscellaneous  obser 
vations  on  the  agriculture  and  products  of  Liberia,  it  may  be 
remarked  that  the  farmer's  life  and  modes  of  labor  are  different 
from  those  of  the  same  class,  in  other  countries  ;  inasmuch  as 
there  is  here  no  spring,  autumn,  or  winter.  The  year  is  a  per- 


48  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vi. 

petual  summer ;  therein,  if  in  nothing  else,  resembling  the 
climate  of  the  original  Paradise,  to  which  men  of  all  colors  look 
back  as  the  birth-place  of  their  species.  The  culture  of  the  soil 
appears  to  be  emphatically  the  proper  occupation  of  the  Liberi- 
ans.  Many  persons  have  anticipated  making  money  more 
easily  by  trade ;  but,  being  unaccustomed  to  commercial  pur 
suits,  and  possessing  but  little  capital,  by  far  the  greater  number 
soon  find  themselves  bankrupt,  and  burthened  with  debt.  With 
these  evidences  of  the  inequality,  on  their  part,  of  competition 
with  vessels  trading  on  the  coast,  and  with  the  established  traders 
of  the  colony,  the  inhabitants  are  now  turning  their  attention 
more  exclusively  to  agriculture. 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN   CIiriSER.  49 


CHAPTER  VII. 

High  Character  of  Governor  Roberts — Suspected  Slaver — Dinner  on  shore — 
Facts  and  remarks  relative  to  the  slave  trade — British  philanthropy — 
Original  cost  of  a  slave — Anchor  at  Sinoe — Peculiarities  and  distinctive 
characteristics  of  the  Fishmen  and  Bushmen — The  King  of  Appollonia — 
Religion  and  morality  among  the  natives — Influence  of  the  women. 

November  3. — ASHORE,  botanizing.  In  this  region,  where  all 
the  plants  are  strange,  and  many  of  them  beautiful,  it  is  easy 
work  to  form  a  collection.  With  a  Kroo-boy  to  carry  my  book, 
I  cut  leaves  and  flowers  as  they  came  to  hand. 

4. — Governor  Roberts,  General  Lewis,  and  Doctor  Day,  dined 
with  us  in  the  ward-room.  The  Governor  is  certainly  no  ordi 
nary  person.  In  every  situation,  as  judge,  ruler,  and  private 
gentleman,  he  sustains  himself  creditably,  and  is  always  unex 
ceptionable.  His  deportment  is  dignified,  quiet,  and  sensible. 
He  has  been  tried  in  war  as  well  as  in  peace,  has  seen  a  good 
share  of  righting,  and  has  invariably  been  cool,  brave,  and  suc 
cessful,  lie  is  a  native  of  Virginia,  and  came  from  thence  in 
1828.  The  friends  of  Colonization  can  hardly  adduce  a  stronger 
argument  in  favor  of  their  enterprise,  than  that  it  has  redeemed 
sucli  a  man  as  Governor  Roberts  from  servitude,  and  afforded 
him  the  opportunity  (which  was  all  he  needed)  of  displaying  his 
high  natural  gifts,  and  applying  them  to  the  benefit  of  his  race. 

To-night  we  had  a  Kroo-dance  on  the  forecastle.  It  was  an 
uncouth  and  peculiar  spectacle,  characterized  by  sinninir, 
stamping,  and  clapping  of  hands,  with  a  great  display  of  agility. 
National  dances  might  be  taken  as  no  bad  standard  of  the  com 
parative  civilisation  of  different  countries.  A  gracefully  quiet 
dance  is  the  latest  flower  of  high  refinement. 

5. — Two  vessels  descried  standing  in  ;  and  bets  were  five  to 
one  that  they  were  the  Macedonian  and  Decatur.  It  proved 
otherwise  ;  they  were  a  British  gun-brig  and  French  merchant- 
schooner. 

5 


50  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  vn 


8. — It  has  been  raining  for  three  days,  almost  incessantly.  No 
Macedonian  yet. 

10. — Dined  on  shore.  Our  captain  and  five  officers,  the  mas 
ter  and  surgeon  of  an  English  merchantman,  and  the  captain  of 
the  French  schooner,  were  of  the  party.  It  was  a  pleasant  din 
ner.  The  conversation  turned  principally  upon  the  trade  and 
customs  of  the  coast.  The  slave-trade  was  freely  discussed  ; 
and  the  subject  had  a  peculiar  interest,  under  the  circumstances, 
because  this  identical  Frenchman,  at  table  with  us,  is  suspected 
to  have  some  connection  with  it.  It  is  merely  a  surmise.  The 
French  captain  speaks  a  little  English  ;  but,  after  dinner,  as  a 
matter  of  courtesy,  we  all  adopted  his  native  language.  Our 
friend  Colonel  Hicks,  as  usual,  did  most  of  the  talking  ;  he  is  as 
shrewd,  agreeable,  and  instructive  a  companion,  as  may  often  be 
met  with  in  any  society. 

The  dinner-conversation,  above  alluded  to,  suggests  some  re 
marks  in  reference  to  the  slave-trade.  There  is  great  discre 
pancy  in  the  various  estimates  as  to  the  number  of  slaves  annu 
ally  exported  from  Africa.  Some  authorities  rate  it  as  high  as 
half  a  million.  Captain  Bosanquet,  R.  N.,  estimates  that  fifteen 
thousand  are  annually  sent  to  the  West  Indies,  and  a  greater 
number  to  Arabia,  all  of  which  are  from  Portuguese  settlements. 
He  affirms  that  the  trade  has  increased  very  much  between  the 
years  1832  and  1839,  and  particularly  in  the  latter  part  of  that 
period  ;  an  effect  naturally  consequent  upon  the  great  number 
of  captures  made  by  the  English  cruisers.  A  trader,  for  in 
stance,  contracting  to  introduce  a  given  number  of  slaves  into 
Cuba,  must  purchase  more  on  the  coast  to  make  up  for  those 
lost  by  capture.  Captain  Brodhead,  another  British  officer,  says 
that  the  number  of  slaves  carried  off  is  grossly  exaggerated,  and 
that  the  English  papers  told  of  thousands  being  shipped  from  a 
port,  where  he  lay  at  anchor  during  the  period  indicated,  and  for 
fifty  days  before  and  afterwards  ;  in  all  which  time,,  not  a  slave 
vessel  came  in  sight.  Doctor  Madden  states,  that,  during  his 
residence  in  Cuba,  the  number  of  slaves  annually  imported  was 
twenty-five  thousand.  Sir  Thomas  Fowell  Buxton  calls  it  one 
hundred  and  fifteen  thousand  !  Her  Majesty's  Commissioners 
say  that  the  number  is  as  well  known  as  any  other  statistical 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  51 

point,  and  that  it  does  not  exceed  fifteen  thousand.  The  slave- 
trade  rose  to  a  great  height  in  1836,  owing  principally  to  the 
high  price  of  colonial  produce.  I  was  in  Cuba  in  that  year,  and 
witnessed  the  great  activity  that  prevailed  in  buying  negroes, 
and  forming  plantations,  especially  those  of  sugar.  The  prices 
have  since  fallen,  and  the  slave-trade  decreased,  on  the  plain 
principle  of  political  economy,  that  the  demand  regulates  the 
supply. 

The  English  cruisers  are  doubtless  very  active  in  the  pursuit 
of  vessels  engaged  in  this  traffic.  The  approbation  of  govern- 
mont  and  the  public  (to  say  nothing  of  £5  head-money  for  every 
slave  recaptured,  and  the  increased  chance  of  promotion  to  va 
cancies  caused  by  death)  is  a  strong  inducement  to  vigilance. 
But,  however  benevolent  may  be  the  motives  that  influence  the 
action  of  Great  Britain,  in  reference  to  the  slave-trade,  there  is 
the  grossest  cruelty  and  injustice  in  carrying  out  her  views. 
Attempts  are  now  being  made  to  transport  the  rescued  slaves  in 
great  numbers  to  the  British  West  India  islands,  at  the  expense 
of  government.  It  is  boldly  recommended,  by  men  of  high 
standing  in  England,  to  carry  them  all  thither  at  once.  The 
effect  of  such  a  measure,  gloss  it  over  as  you  may,  would  be  to 
increase  the  black  labor  of  the  British  islands,  by  just  so  much 
as  is  deducted  from  the  number  of  slaves,  intended  for  the  Span 
ish  or  Brazilian  possessions.  "  The  sure  cure  for  the  slave- 
trade,"  says  Mr.  Laird,  "  is  in  our  own  hands.  It  lies  in  pro 
ducing  cheaper  commodities  by  free  labor,  in  our  own  colonies." 
And,  to  accomplish  this  desirable  end,  England  will  seize  upon 
the  liberated  Africans  and  land  them  in  her  West  India  islands, 
with  the  alternative  of  adding  their  toil  to  the  amount  of  her 
colonial  labor,  or  of  perishing  by  starvation.  How  much  hotter 
will  their  condition  be,  as  apprentices  in  Trinidad  or  Jamaica, 
than  as  slaves  in  Cuba  ?  Infinitely  more  wretched  !  English 
philanthropy  cuts  a  very  suspicious  figure,  when,  not  content 
with  neglecting  the  welfare  of  those  whom  she  undertakes  to  pro 
tect,  she  thus  attempts  to  made  them  subservient  to  national 
aggrandizement.  The  fate  of  the  rescued  slaves  is  scarcely  bet 
ter  than  that  of  the  crews  of  the  captured  slave-vessels.  The 


52  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vii. 

latter  are  landed  on  the  nearest  point  of  the  African  coast,  where 
death  by  starvation  or  fever  almost  certainly  awaits  them. 

I  am  desirous  to  put  the  best  construction  possible  on  the  conduct 
as  well  of  nations  as  of  individuals,  and  never  to  entertain  that  cold 
scepticism  which  explains  away  all  generosity  and  philanthropy 
on  motives  of  selfish  policy.  But  it  is  difficult  to  give  unlimited 
faith  to  the  ardent  and  disinterested  desire  professed  by  England, 
to  put  a  period  to  the  slave-trade-  If  sincere,  why  does  she  not, 
as  she  readily  might,  induce  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Brazil,  to  de 
clare  the  traffic  piratical?  And  again,  why  is  not  her  own 
strength  so  directed  as  to  give  the  trade  a  death-blow  at  once  ? 
There  are  but  two  places  between  Sierra  Leone  and  Accra,  a 
distance  of  one  thousand  miles,  whence  slaves  are  exported.  One 
is  Gallinas;  the  other  New  Sesters.  The  English  keep  a 
cruiser  off  each  of  these  rivers.  Slavers  run  in,  take  their  car 
goes  of  human  flesh  and  blood,  and  push  off.  If  the  cruiser  can 
capture  the  vessels,  the  captors  receive  £5  per  head  for  the 
slaves  on  board,  and  the  government  has  more  "  emigrants  "  for 
its  West  India  possessions.  Now,  were  the  cruisers  to  anchor  at 
the  mouths  of  these  two  rivers,  the  slavers  would  be  prevented 
from  putting  to  sea  with  their  cargoes,  and  the  trade  at  those 
places  be  inevitably  stopped.  But,  in  this  case,  where  would  be 
the  head-money  and  the  emigrants  ? 

It  has  been  asserted  that  the  colonists  of  Liberia  favor  the 
slave-trade.  This  is  not  true.  The  only  places  where  the  traffic 
is  carried  on,  north  of  the  line,  are  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
most  powerful  English  settlements  on  the  whole  coast ;  while 
even  British  authority  does  not  pretend  that  the  vicinity  of  the 
American  colonies  is  polluted  by  it.  Individuals  among  the  colo 
nists,  unprincipled  men,  may,  in  a  very  few  instances,  from  love 
of  gain,  have  given  assistance  to  slavers,  by  supplying  goods  or 
provisions  at  high  prices.  But  this  must  have  been  done  secretly, 
or  the  law  would  have  taken  hold  of  them.  Slavers,  no  doubt, 
have  often  watered  at  Monrovia,  but  never  when  their  character 
was  known.  On  the  other  hand,  the  slave  stations  at  St.  Paul's 
river,  at  Bassa,  and  at  Junk,  have  undeniably  been  broken  up 
by  the  presence  of  the  colonists.  Even  if  destitute  of  sympathy 
for  fellow-men  of  their  own  race  and  hue,  and  regardless  of 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN  CRriSKR.  :,3 


their  deep  stake  in  the  preservation  of  their  character,  the  evi 
dent  fact  is,  that  so  If- interest  would  prompt  tho  inhabitants  of 
Liberia  to  oppose  the  slave-trade  in  their  vicinity.  Wherever 
the  slaver  comes,  he  purchases  large  quantities  of  rice  at  extrav 
agant  rates,  thus  curtailing  the  supply  to  the  colonist,  and  en- 
hancing  the  price.  Moreover,  the  natives,  always  preferring  the 
excitement  of  war  to  the  labors  of  peace,  neglect  the  culture  of 
the  earth,  and  have  no  camwood  nor  palm-oil  to  offer  to  the 
honest  trader,  who  consequently  finds  neither  buyers  nor  sellers 
among  them. 

The  truth  is,  the  slave-traders  can  dispense  with  assistance 
from  the  Liberian  colonists.  They  procure  goods,  and  every, 
thing  necessary  to  their  trade,  at  Sierra  Leone,  or  from  any  Eng 
lish  or  American  vessel  on  the  coast.  If  the  merchantmen 
find  a  good  market  for  their  cargoes,  they  arc  satisfied,  whatever 
be  the  character  of  their  customers.  This  is  well  understood 
and  openly  avowed  hero.  The  English  have  no  right  to  taunt 
the  Americans,  nor  to  claim  higher  integrity  on  their  own  part. 
They  lend  precisely  the  same  indirect  aid  to  the  traffic  that  the 
Americans  do,  and  furnish  everything  except  vessels,  which  like 
wise  they  would  supply,  if  they  could  build  them.  It  is  the  pol 
icy  of  the  English  ship-masters  on  the  coast  to  represent  the 
Americans  as  engaged  in  the  slave-trade  ;  for  if,  by  such  accu 
sations,  they  can  induce  British  or  American  men-of-war  to  de 
tain  and  examine  the  fair  trader,  they  thus  rid  themselves  of 
troublesome  rivals. 

The  natives  are  generally  favorable  to  the  slave-trade.  It 
brings  them  many  comforts  and  luxuries,  which  the  legitimate 
trade  does  not  supply.  Their  argument  is,  that  "  if  a  man  goes 
into  the  Bush  and  buys  camwood,  he  must  pay  another  to  bring 
it  to  the  beach.  But  if  he  buy  a  slave,  this  latter  commodity 
will  net  only  walk,  but  bring  a  load  of  camwood  on  his  hack."' 
All  slaves  exported  are  Bushmen,  many  of  whom  are  brought 
from  two  or  three  hundred  miles  in  the  interior.  The  Fishmen 
and  Kroomen  are  the  agents  between  the  slave-traders  and  the 
interior  tribes.  They  will  not  permit  the  latter  to  become  ac 
quainted  with  the  white  men,  lest  their  own  agency  and  its  profits 
should  cease.  A  slave,  once  sold,  seldom  returns  to  his  home. 


51  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  vn 

If  transported  to  a  foreign  country,  his  case  is  of  course  hopeless  ; 
and  even  if  recaptured  on  the  coast,  his  return  is  almost  impos 
sible.  His  home,  probably,  is  far  distant  from  the  sea.  It  can 
only  be  reached  by  traversing  the  territories  of  four  or  five 
nations,  any  one  of  whom  would  seize  the  hapless  stranger,  and 
either  consign  him  to  slavery  among  themselves,  or  send  him 
again  to  a  market  on  the  coast.  Hence,  those  recaptured  by 
the  English  cruisers  are  either  settled  at  Sierra  Leone,  or 
transported  to  some  other  of  the  colonies  of  Great  Britain. 

The  price  paid  to  the  native  agents,  for  a  full  grown  male 
slave,  is  about  one  musket,  twelve  pieces  of  romauls,  one  cut 
lass,  a  demijohn  of  rurn,  a  bar  of  iron,  a  keg  of  powder,  and 
ten  bars  of  leaf-tobacco,  the  whole  amounting  to  the  value  of 
from  thirty  to  thirty-five  dollars.  A  female  is  sold  for  about  a 
quarter  less  ;  and  boys  of  twelve  or  thirteen  command  only  a 
musket  and  two  pieces  of  romauls.  Slave-vessels  go  from  Ha 
vana  with  nothing  but  dollars  and  doubloons.  Other  vessels  go 
out  with  the  above  species  of  goods,  and  all  others  requisite  for 
the  trade.  The  slaver  buys  the  goods  on  the  coast,  pays  for 
them  with  specie,  and  lands  them  in  payment  for  the  slaves, 
money  being  but  little  used  in  traffic  with  the  natives. 

13. — The  Decatur  arrived  this  evening,  after  a  passage  of 
thirty  days  from  Porto  Praya.  She  left  the  Macedonian  on 
the  way,  the  winds  being  light,  the  current  adverse,  and  the 
frigate  sailing  very  badly. 

17. — The  Macedonian  arrived. 

Coming  off  from  town,  to-day,  I  took  a  canoe  with  a  couple  of 
Kroomen,  who  paddled  down  the  river,  till  we  arrived  at  a  nar 
row  part  of  the  promontory.  On  touching  the  shallows,  one  of 
the  Kroomen  took  me  on  his  back  to  the  dry  land.  The  two 
then  picked  up  the  canoe,  carried  her  across  the  cape,  perhaps  a 
hundred  yards,  and  launched  her,  with  myself  on  board,  through 
the  heavy  surf. 

21. — Sailed  at  daylight  for  Since,  leaving  the  Macedonian 
and  Decatur,  an  American  ship  and  barque,  an  English  brig, 
and  two  Hamburg  vessels,  at  anchor. 

25. — Anchored  at  Sinoe  at  noon. 

26. — Ashore.     Visited  Fishtown,  a  well-built  native  village, 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  55 

containing  probably  four  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  within  about 
two  hundred  yards  of  the  colonial  dwellings.  The  people  are 
said  to  have  committed  many  depredations  upon  the  colonists  ; 
and  there  is  an  evident  intention  of  drivin"  them  off.  This  is 

O 

the  tribe  with  which  we  are  to  hold  a  palaver. 

There  are  two  grand  divisions  of  native  Africans  on  the  West 
ern  Coast,  the  Fishmen  and  the  Bushmen  ;  the  latter  being  in 
habitants  of  the  interior  ;  and  the  former  comprising  all  the 
tribes  along  the  sea-shore,  who  gain  a  subsistence  by  fishing, 
trading  between  the  Bushmen  and  foreign  vessels,  and  laboring 
on  shipboard.  The  Kroomen,  so  often  mentioned,  are  in  some 
respects  a  distinct  and  separate  people  ;  although  a  large  pro 
portion,  probably  nine-tenths  of  those  bearing  that  name,  are 
identical  with  the  Fishmen.  The  latter  are  generally  treacher 
ous  and  deceitful  ;  the  Kroomen  are  much  more  honest,  but  still 
are  not  to  be  trusted  without  reserve  and  discrimination. 

The  government  of  these  people,  and  of  tin;  natives  generally, 
is  nominally  monarchical,  but  democratic  in  substance.  The 
regal  office  appeals  to  be  hereditary  in  a  family,  but  not  to  de 
scend  according  to  our  ideas  of  lineal  succession.  The  power 
of  the  king  is  greatly  circumscribed  by  the  privilege,  which 
every  individual  in  the  tribe  possesses,  of  calling  a  palaver.  If 
a  man  deems  himself  injured,  he  demands  a  full  discussion  of 
his  rights  or  wrongs,  in  presence  of  the  rulers  and  the  tribe. 
The  head-men  sit  in  judgment,  and  substantial  justice  is  gene 
rally  done.  There  are  persons,  celebrated  for  their  power  and 
copiousness  of  talking,  who  appear  as  counsel  in  behalf  of  the 
respective  parties.  The  more  distinguished  of  these  advocates 
are  sometimes  sent  for,  from  a  distance  of  two  or  three  hundred 
miles,  to  speak  at  a  palaver  ;  and,  in  such  cases,  they  leave  all 
other  employment,  and  hurry  to  the  scene  of  action. 

It  would  appear  that,  on  other  parts  of  the  coast,  or  farther 
in  the  interior,  the  native  kings  possess  more  power  and  assume 
greater  state,  than  those  who  have  come  under  my  notice.  The 
King  of  Appollonia,  adjoining  Axim  Territory,  is  said  to  be  very 
rich  and  powerful.  If  the  report  of  his  nearest  civilized  neigh 
bor,  the  Governor  of  Axim,  is  to  be  credited,  this  potentate's 
house  is  furnished  most  sumptuously  in  the  European  style. 


56  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vn. 

Gold  cups,  pitchers,  and  plates,  are  used  at  his  table,  with  fur. 
niture  of  corresponding  magnificence  in  all  the  departments  of 
his  household.  He  possesses  vast  treasures  in  bullion  and  gold 
dust.  The  Governor  of  Dixcove  informed  me,  that,  about  four 
years  ago,  he  accompanied  an  English  expedition  against  Appol- 
lonia,  which  is  still  claimed  by  England,  although  their  fort 
there  has  been  abandoned.  On  their  approach,  the  King  fled, 
and  left  them  masters  of  the  place.  Some  of  the  English  soldiers 
opened  the  sepulchre  of  the  King  last  deceased,  and  took  away 
an  unknown  amount  of  gold.  Afterwards,  by  order  of  the 
Governor,  the  remainder  was  taken  from  the  grave,  amounting 
to  several  hundred  dollars.  Together  with  the  treasure,  nume 
rous  articles  had  been  buried,  such  as  a  knife,  plate,  and  cup, 
swords,  guns,  cloth,  goods  of  various  kinds,  and,  in  short,  every 
thing  that  the  dead  King  had  required  while  alive.  There  were 
also  four  skeletons,  two  of  each  sex,  buried  beneath  the  royal 
coffin.  It  is  said  that  sixty  victims  were  sacrificed  on  occasion 
of  the  funeral,  of  whom  only  the  most  distinguished  were 
allowed,  even  in  death,  to  approach  their  master  so  nearly,  and 
act  as  his  immediate  attendants  in  the  world  of  spirits.  The 
splendor  of  an  African  funeral,  on  the  Gold  Coast,  is  unparal 
leled.  It  is  customary  for  persons  of  wealth  to  smear  the 
corpses  of  their  friends  with  oil,  and  then  to  powder  them  with 
gold-dust  from  head  to  foot,  so  as  to  produce  the  appearance  of 
bronzed  or  golden  statues. 

The  present  King  of  Appollonia  deposited  six  hundred  ounces 
of  gold  (about  ten  thousand  dollars)  with  the  Governor  of  Cape 
Coast  Castle,  as  security  for  his  good  behavior.  His  cellar  is 
well  supplied  with  rare  wines,  which  he  offers  liberally  to 
strangers  who  land  at  his  residence.  All  these  circumstances, 
and  this  barbaric  magnificence,  indicate  a  far  different  condition 
from  that  of  the  native  Kings  in  the  vicinity  of  Liberia,  who  live 
simply,  like  their  subjects,  on  vegetables  and  fish,  and  one  of 
whom  was  proud  to  array  himself  in  a  cast-off  garment  of  my 
own.  Their  wealth  consists  not  in  gold,  plate,  or  bullion,  but 
in  crockery  and  earthenware.  Not  only  the  Kings,  but  all  the 
rich  natives,  accumulate  articles  of  this  kind,  until  their  dwell 
ings  resemble  warehouses  of  crockery.  Perhaps  fifty  white 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN  CRrisr.K.  :>7 

wash-bowls,  with  as  many  pitchers,  mugs,  and  plates,  may  be 
seen  around  the  room  ;  and  when  tln^r  utensils  become  so  nume 
rous  as  to  excite  the  envy  of  tho  trihr,  th"  owners  arc  said  to 
bury  them  in  the  earth.  In  the  house  of  King  Glass  (so  named, 
I  presume,  from  the  transparency  of  his  character),  I  noticed  the 
first  indications  of  a  taste  for  the  Fine  Arts.  Seventy  coarse 
colored  engravings,  glazed  and  framed,  were  susp^ndi-d  on  the 
wall ;  and,  what  was  most  curious,  nearly  all  of  them  were 
copies  of  the  same  print,  a  portrait  of  King  William  the  Fourth. 

It  is  to  be  desired  that  some  missionary  should  give  an 
account  of  the  degree  and  kind  of  natural  religion  among  the 
native  tribes.  Their  belief  in  the  efficacy  of  sassy-wood  to  dis 
cover  guilt  or  innocence,  indicates  a  faith  in  an  invisible  Equity. 
Some  of  them,  however,  select  the  most  ridiculous  of  animals, 
the  monkey,  as  their  visible  symbol  of  the  Deity  ;  or,  as  appears 
more  probable,  they  stand  in  spiritual  awe  of  him,  from  an  idea 
that  the  souls  of  the  dead  are  again  embodied  in  this  shape.  Un 
der  this  impression,  they  pay  a  kind  of  worship  to  the  monkey,  and 
never  kill  him  near  a  burial-place ;  and  though,  in  other  situa 
tions,  they  kill  and  eat  him,  they  endeavor  to  propitiate  his 
favor  by  respectful  language,  and  the  use  of  charms.  Other 
natives,  in  the  neighborhood  of  Gaboon,  worship  the  shark,  and 
throw  slaves  to  him  to  be  devoured. 

On  the  whole,  their  morality  is  superior  to  their  religion — at 
least,  as  between  members  of  the  same  tribe — although  they 
scarcely  seem  to  acknowledge  moral  obligations  in  respect  to 
strangers.  Their  landmarks,  for  instance,  are  held  sacred 
among  the  individuals  of  a  tribe.  A  father  takes  his  son,  and 
points  out  the  "stake  and  stones  "  which  mark  the  boundary 
between  him  and  his  neighbor.  There  needs  no  other  rrgistry. 
Land  passes  from  sire  to  son,  and  is  sold  and  bought  with  as 
undisputed  and  secure  a  title  as  all  our  deeds  and  formalities 
can  establish.  But,  between  different  tribes,  wars  frequently 
arise  on  disputed  boundary  questions,  and  in  con*, --jiicnce  of 
encroachments  made  by  either  party.  "  Land-palavers  "  and 
"  Women-palavers  "  are  the  great  causes  of  war.  Veracity 
seems  to  be  the  virtue  most  indiscriminately  practised,  »- 
towards  the  stranger  as  the  brother.  The  natives  are  cautious 


58  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vn. 

as  to  the  accuracy  of  the  stones  which  they  promulgate,  and 
seldom  make  a  stronger  asseveration  than  "  I  tink  he  be  true !" 
Yet  their  consciences  do  not  shrink  from  the  use  of  falsehood 
and  artifice,  where  these  appear  expedient. 

The  natives  are  not  insensible  to  the  advantages  of  education. 
They  are  fond  of  having  their  children  in  the  families  of  colo 
nists,  where  they  learn  English,  and  the  manners  of  civilized 
life,  and  get  plenty  to  eat.  Probably  the  parents  hope,  in  this 
way,  to  endow  their  offspring  with  some  of  the  advantages  which 
they  suppose  the  white  man  to  possess  over  the  colored  race. 
So  sensible  are  they  of  their  own  inferiority,  that  if  a  person 
looks  sternly  in  the  face  of  a  native,  when  about  to  be  attacked 
by  him,  and  calls  out  to  him  loudly,  the  chances  are  ten  to  one 
that  the  native  runs  away.  This  effect  is  analogous  to  that 
which  the  eye  of  man  is  said  to  exert  on  the  fiercest  of  savage 
beasts.  The  same  involuntary  and  sad  acknowledgment  of  a 
lower  order  of  being  appears  in  their  whole  intercourse  with  the 
whites.  Yet  such  self-abasement  is  scarcely  just ;  for  the  slave- 
traders,  who  constitute  the  specimens  of  civilized  man  with  whom 
the  natives  have  hitherto  been  most  familiar,  are  by  no  means 
on  a  par  with  themselves,  in  a  moral  point  of  view.  It  is  a  pity 
to  see  such  awful  homage  rendered  to  the  mere  intellect,  apart 
from  truth  and  goodness. 

It  is  a  redeeming  trait  of  the  native  character,  so  far  as  it 
goes,  that  women  are  not  wholly  without  influence  in  the  public 
councils.  If.  when  a  tribe  is  debating  the  expediency  of  going 
to  war,  the  women  come  beneath  the  council-tree,  and  represent 
the  evils  that  will  result,  their  opinion  will  have  great  weight, 
and  may  probably  turn  the  scale  in  favor  of  peace.  On  the 
other  hand,  if  the  women  express  a  wish  that  they  were  men,  in 
order  that  they  might  go  to  war,  the  warriors  declare  for  it  at 
once.  It  is  to  be  feared,  that  there  is  an  innate  fierceness  even 
in  the  gentler  sex,  which  makes  them  as  likely  to  give  their 
voices  for  war  as  for  peace.  It  is  a  feminine  office  and  privi 
lege,  on  the  African  coast,  to  torture  prisoners  taken  in  war,  by 
sticking  thorns  in  their  flesh,  and  in  various  other  modes,  before 
they  are  put  to  death.  The  unfortunate  Captain  Far  well  under 
went  three  hours  of  torture,  at  the  hands  of  the  women  and 


CHAP,  vii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  59 


children.     So,  likewise,  did  the  mate  of  Captain  Burke's  v 
at  Sinoe. 

The  natives  are  very  cruel  in  their  fights,  and  spare  neither 
age  nor  sex;  they  kill  the  women  and  female  children,  lest 
they  should  be  the  mothers  of  future  warriors,  and  the  boys, 
lest  they  should  fight  hereafter.  If  they  take  prisoners,  it  id 
either  to  torture  them  to  death,  or  to  sell  them  as  slaves.  The 
Fishmen  have  often  evinced  courage  and  obstinacy  in  war,  as 
was  the  case  in  their  assaults  upon  the  Liberian  settlers,  in  the 
heroic  age  of  the  colony,  when  Ashman  and  his  associates  dis 
played  such  warlike  ability  in  defeating  them.  The  Bushmen 
are  as  cruel  as  the  former,  but  appear  to  be  more  cowardly.  I 
have  heard  the  Rev.  Mr.  Brown,  himself  an  actor  in  the  scene, 
relate  the  story  of  the  fight  at  Ileddington,  in  which  three  colo 
nists,  assisted  by  two  women,  were  attacked  at  daybreak  by  five 
hundred  natives,  many  of  whom  were  armed  with  muskets. 
Zion  Harris  and  Mr.  Demery  were  the  marksmen,  while 
the  clergyman  assumed  the  duty  of  loading  the  guns.  The 
natives  rushed  onward  in  so  dense  a  crowd,  that  almost  every 
bullet  and  buckshot  of  the  defenders  hit  its  man.  The  besieged 
had  but  six  muskets,  one  hundred  cartridges,  and  a  few  charges 
of  powder.  Their  external  fortifications  consisted  only  of  a 
slight  picket-fence,  which  might  have  been  thrown  down  in  an 
instant.  But,  fortunately,  when  there  were  but  three  charges 
of  powder  left  in  the  house,  a  shot  killed  Gotorap,  the  chief  of 
the  assailants,  at  whose  fall  the  whole  army  fled  in  dismay. 
One  of  the  trophies  of  their  defeat  was  the  kettle  which  they 
had  brought  for  the  purpose  of  cooking  the  missionaries,  and 
holding  a  cannibal  feast.  The  battle-field  is  poetically  termed 
the  bed  of  honor :  but  the  bravest  man  might  be  excused  for 
shrinking  from  a  burial  in  his  enemy's  stomach  !  Poetry  can 
make  nothing  of  such  a  fate. 

Rude  and  wretched  as  is  the  condition  of  the  natives,  it  has 
been  affirmed  that  many  of  the  Liberian  colonists  have  mingled 
with  them,  and  preferred  their  savage  mode  of  life  to  the  habits 
of  civilisation.  Only  one  instance  of  the  kind  has  come  to  my 
personal  knowledge.  We  had  on  board,  for  two  or  three  months, 
a  party  of  Kroomen,  among  whom  was  one,  dressed  like  the 


60  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vn. 

rest,  but  speaking  better  English.  Being  questioned,  he  said 
that  he  had  learned  English  on  board  of  merchant-vessels,  where 
he  had  been  employed  for  several  years.  We  took  this  young 
man  into  the  ward-room,  where  he  worked  for  three  months,  asso 
ciating  chiefly  with  the  Kroomen  on  deck,  speaking  their  language, 
and  perfectly  resembling  them  in  his  appearance  and  general 
habits.  About  the  time  of  discharging  him,  we  discovered  that 
he  was  a  native  of  North  Carolina,  had  resided  many  years  in 
Liberia,  but,  being  idle  and  vicious,  had  finally  given  up  the 
civilized  for  the  savage  state.  His  real  name  was  Elijah  Park  ; 
his  assumed  one,  William  Henry. 


CHAP,  viii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER  61 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Palaver  at  Sinoc — Ejectment  of  a  Horde  of  Fishmen — Palaver  at  Settra 
Kroo — Mrs.  Sawyer — Objections  to  the  Marriage  of  Missionaries — A 
Centipede — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — Rescue  of  the  Sassy  Wood-Drinker 
Hostilities  between  the  Natives  and  Colonists. 

November  27. — At  Sinoe.  The  settlement  here  is  in  a  poor 
condition.  The  inhabitants  are  apparently  more  ignorant  and 
lazy  than  the  colonists  on  any  other  part  of  the  coast.  Yet  they 
have  a  beautiful  and  fertile  situation. 

28. — The  Macedonian  and  Decatur  arrived.  Governor  Rob 
erts,  and  other  persons  of  authority  and  distinction  among  the 
coloni-  passengers,  in  order  to  be  present  at  the  intended 

ivor. 

29. — At  9  A.  M.,  thirteen  boats  left  the  different  ships,  armed, 
and  having  about  seventy-five  marines  on  board,  besides  the 
sailors.  Entering  the  river,  with  flags  flying  and  muskets 
glittering,  the  boats  lay  on  their  oars  until  all  were  in  a  line, 
and  then  pulled  at  once  for  the  beach,  as  if  about  to  charge  a 
hostile  battery.  The  manoeuvre  was  handsomely  executed,  and 
seemed  to  give  great  satisfaction  to  some  thirty  colonists  and  fifty 
naked  natives,  who  were  assembled  on  the  beach.  The  officers 
ami  marines  were  landed,  and  formed  in  line,  under  the  direc 
tion  of  Lieutenant  Rich.  The  music  then  struck  up,  while  the 
Commodore  and  Governor  Roberts  slept  ashore,  and  the  whole 
detachment  marched  to  the  palaver-house,  which,  on  this  occa 
sion,  was  the  Methodist  Church. 

The  Commodore  seated  himself  behind  a  small  table,  which 
was  covered  with  a  napkin.  The  officers,  with  Governor 
Roberts  and  Doctor  Day,  occupied  seats  on  his  right,  and  the 
native  chiefs,  as  they  dropped  in,  found  places  on  the  left.  If 
the  latter  fell  short  of  us  in  outward  pomp  and  martial  array, 


62  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  vm 

they  had  certainly  the  advantage  of  rank,  there  being  about 
twenty  kings  and  headmen  of  the  tribes  among  them.  Gover 
nor  Roberts  opened  the  palaver  in  the  Commodore's  name, 
informing  the  assembled  chiefs,  that  he  had  come  to  talk  to  them 
about  the  slaughter  of  the  mate  and  cook,  belonging  to  Captain 
Burke's  vessel.  Jim  Davis,  who  conducted  the  palaver  on  the 
part  of  the  natives,  professed  to  know  nothing  of  the  matter,  the 
chiefs  present  being  Bushmen,  whereas  the  party  concerned 
were  Fishmen.  After  a  little  exhibition  of  diplomacy,  Davis 
retired,  and  Prince  Tom  came  forward  and  submitted  to  an  ex 
amination.  His  father  is  king  of  the  tribe  of  Fishmen,  impli 
cated  in  the  killing  of  the  two  men.  The  prince  denied  any 
personal  knowledge  on  the  subject,  but  observed  that  the  deed 
had  been  done  in  war,  and  that  the  tribe  were  not  responsible. 
When  asked  where  Nippoo  was  (a  chief  known  to  have  taken 
a  leading  part  in  the  affray),  he  at  first  professed  ignorance,  but, 
on  being  hard  pressed,  offered  to  go  and  seek  him.  He  was 
informed,  however,  that  he  could  not  be  permitted  to  retire,  but 
must  produce  Nippoo  on  the  spot,  or  be  taken  to  America. 

The  council  went  on.  The  depositions  of  three  colonists  were 
taken,  and  the  facts  in  the  case  brought  out.  They  were  sub 
stantially  in  accordance  with  the  narrative  already  given  in  this 
Journal ;  and,  upon  full  investigation,  Captain  Burke  was  decid 
ed  to  have  been  the  aggressor.  The  proceedings  of  the  Fish- 
men  had  been  fierce  and  savage,  but  were  redeemed  by  a 
quality  of  wild  justice,  and  exhibited  them  altogether  in  a  better 
light  than  the  white  men. 

This  affair  being  adjusted,  the  business  of  the  palaver  might 
be  considered  at  an  end,  so  far  as  the  American  squadron  had 
any  immediate  connection  with  it.  But  there  were  points  of 
importance  to  be  settled,  between  the  natives  and  the  colonists. 
It  was  the  interest  of  the  latter,  that  the  Fishmen,  residing  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  settlement,  should  be  ejected  from  their  land, 
which  would  certainly  be  a  very  desirable  acquisition  to  the 
emigrants.  It  seems,  that  the  land  originally  belonged  to  the 
Sinoe  tribe,  whose  head-quarters  are  four  miles  inland.  Seve 
ral  years  ago,  long  before  the  arrival  of  the  emigrants,  this 
tribe  gave  permission  to  a  horde  of  Fishmen  to  occupy  the  site, 


CHAP,  viii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  63 

but  apparently  without  relinquishing  their  own  property  in  the 
soil.  Feeble  at  first,  the  tenants  wore  a  friendly  demeanor  to 
wards  their  landlords,  and  made  themselves  useful,  until,  gra 
dually  acquiring  strength,  they  became  insolent,  and  assmm •<! 
an  attitude  of  independence.  Setting  the  interior  tribe,  of  whom 
they  held  the  land,  at  defiance,  these  Fishmcn  put  an  interdict 
upon  their  trading  with  foreigners,  except  through  their  own 
agency.  Eight  or  ten  years  ago,  however,  the  inland  natives 
sold  the  land  to  the  Colonization  Society,  subject  to  the  incum- 
brance  of  the  Fishmen's  occupancy,  during  good  behavior;  a 
condition  which  the  colonists  likewise  pledged  themselves  to  the 
Fishmen  to  observe,  unless  the  conduct  of  the  latter  should  nul 
lify  it. 

For  the  last  two  or  three  years,  the  settlement  at  Sinoe,  being 
neglected  by  the  Mississippi  Society,  under  whose  patronage  it 
was  established,  has  dwindled  and  grown  weaker  in  numbers 
and  spirit.  The  Fishmen,  with  their  characteristic  audacity, 
have  assumed  a  bolder  aspect,  and,  besides  committing  many 
depredations  on  the  property  of  the  colonists,  have  murdered 
two  or  three  of  their  number.  The  murderers,  it  is  true,  were 
delivered  up  by  the  tribe,  and  punished  at  the  discretion  of  the 
Monrovian  authorities  ;  but  the  colonists  at  Sinoe  felt  themselves 
too  feeble  to  redress  their  lighter  wrongs,  and  therefore  refrain 
ed  from  demanding  satisfaction.  About  a  month  since,  an  addi 
tion  of  sixty  new  emigrants  was  made  to  the  seventy,  already 
established  there.  Considering  themselves  now  adequate  to  act 
on  the  offensive,  they  determined  to  drive  off  the  Fishmen.  In 
this  purpose  they  were  confirmed  by  the  Monrovian  government; 
and  it  was  a  part  of  the  governor's  business,  at  the  palaver,  to 
provide  for  its  execution. 

Governor  Roberts  exhibited  much  sagacity  and  diplomatic 
shrewdness  in  accomplishing  his  object.  It  was  obviously  im 
portant  to  obtain  the  assistance  of  the  Bushmen,  in  expelling 
and  keeping  away  the  Fishmen.  They,  however,  were  unwil 
ling  to  take  part  in  the  matter,  alleging  their  fears  as  an  rx«-u>f  : 
although  it  might  probably  bo  a  str  nger  reason,  that  they  could 
trade  more  advantageously  with  merchant-vessels,  through  the 
medium  of  the  Fishmen,  than  by  the  agency  of  the  colonists. 


64  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vm. 

But  the  interposition  of  the  American  Commodore,  and  the  af 
fair  of  the  murder,  afforded  the  Governor  the  advantage  of  mix- 
ing  up  that  question  with  the  colonial  one  j  so  as  to  give  the  na 
tives  the  impression  that  everything  was  done  at  the  instance 
and  under  the  authority  of  our  armed  force.  This  vantage- 
ground  he  skilfully  made  use  of,  yet  not  without  its  being  per 
ceived,  by  the  native  politicians,  that  the  question  of  expelling 
the  Fishmen  was  essentially  distinct  from  that  of  the  murder  of 
Captain  Burke's  seamen.  Davis  the  interpreter,  and  one  of  the 
headmen  of  the  Sinoe  tribe,  inquired  why  the  Commodore  did  not 
first  talk  his  palaver,  and  then  the  Governor  in  turn  talk  his.  It 
did  not  suit  his  excellency's  views  to  answer ;  and  the  question 
was  evaded.  By  this  ingenious  policy,  the  Bushmen  were  in 
duced  to  promise  their  aid  in  ridding  the  settlement  of  its  trou 
blesome  neighbors ;  while  the  Fishmen,  overawed  by  the  pre 
sence  of  a  force  friendly  to  the  colonists,  submitted  to  their  ex 
pulsion  with  a  quietude  that  could  not,  under  other  circum 
stances,  have  been  expected.  Doubtless,  they  had  forfeited 
their  claim  to  the  land  by  non-observance  of  the  conditions  on 
which  they  held  it ;  yet,  in  some  points,  the  affair  had  remarka 
bly  the  aspect  of  a  forcible  acquisition  of  territory  by  the  colo 
nists. 

No  time  was  lost  in  carrying  the  decree  of  the  palaver  into 
execution.  Apprehending  hostilities  from  the  squadron,  the 
Fishmen  had  already  removed  most  of  their  property,  as  well  as 
their  women  and  children,  and  had  evacuated  the  town.  Go. 
vernor  Roberts,  Mr.  Brown,  Doctor  Day,  late  government  agent, 
together  with  a  few  colonists,  repaired  to  the  place  and  directed 
its  demolition.  This  was  partially  effected  by  the  natives,  of 
whom  some  hundreds  from  the  interior  were  present.  They  cut 
down  and  unroofed  many  of  the  dwellings ;  and  the  Governor 
left  directions  to  burn  every  house,  if  the  Fishmen  should  at 
tempt  to  re-occupy  the  town.  This  wild  horde,  therefore,  may  be 
considered  as  permanently  ejected  from  the  ground  which  they 
held  on  so  singular  a  tenure  ;  and  thus  terminated  an  affair 
which  throws  a  strong  light  on  many  of  the  characteristics  of 
the  natives,  and  likewise  on  the  relations  between  them  and  the 
emigrants. 


CHAP,  vni.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  .,:, 


December  3. — We  sailed,  at  two  o'clock  A.  M.,  for  Scttra 
Kroo,  fifteen  miles  down  the  coast.  Anchored  at  eleven  A.  M. 
A  boat  being  sent  ashore,  brought  news  of  the  death  of  .Mr. 
Sawyer,  the  missionary.  He  left  a  wife,  now  the  only  white 
person  at  the  place. 

4. — The  boats  landed  at  Settra  Kroo,  to  settle  a  palaver.  The 
matter  in  question  was  the  violence  offered  by  the  natives  to 
Captain  Brown,  master  of  an  American  vessel,  in  striking  and 
attempting  to  kill  him.  They  admitted  the  fact,  begged  pardon, 
and  agreed  to  pay  ten  bullocks,  four  sheep,  and  some  fowls,  or 
the  value  thereof,  to  Captain  Brown,  and  further  to  permit  him 
to  trade  without  payment  of  the  usual  "dash."  This  town  is 
said  to  be  very  superior  to  any  other  native  settlement  on  the 
coast;  and  the  people  are  the  best  informed,  most  intelligent, 
and  the  finest  in  personal  appearance,  that  we  have  met  with. 

Dined  on  shore.  Mrs.  Sawyer  presided  at  the  table,  although 
her  husband  was  buried  only  yesterday.  It  is  impossible  not  to 
look  with  admiration  at  this  lady,  whose  husband  and  only 
child  have  fallen  victims  to  the  climate,  yet  who  believes  it  her 
duty  to  remain  alone,  upon  a  barbarous  coast,  in  a  position  which 
perhaps  no  other  woman  ever  voluntarily  occupied.  She  is 
faithful  to  her  trust,  as  the  companion  of  him  who  fell  at  his 
post,  and  is  doubtless  happy  in  obedience  to  the  unworldly  mo- 
tives  that  guide  her  determination.  Yet  I  cannot  reconcile  my 
self  to  the  idea  of  a  woman  sharing  the  martyrdom,  which 
seems  a  proper,  and  not  an  undesirable  fate  (so  it  come  in  the 
line  of  his  duty)  for  a  man.  I  doubt  the  expediency  of  sending 
missionary  ladies  to  perish  here.  Indeed,  it  may  well  be  ques 
tioned  whether  a  missionary  ought,  in  any  country,  to  be  a  mar 
ried  man.  The  care  of  a  family  must  distract  his  attention  and 
weaken  his  efficiency  ;  and  herein,  it  may  be,  consists  one  great 
advantage  which  the  Catholic  missionary  possesses  over  the  Pro 
testant.  He  can  penetrate  into  the  interior  ;  he  can  sleep  in  the 
hut,  and  eat  the  simple  food  of  a  native.  But,  if  there  be  a 
wife  and  children,  they  must  have  houses  and  a  thousand  other 
comforts,  which  are  not  only  expensive  and  difficult  to  obtain, 
but  are  clogs  to  keep  the  missionary  down  to  one  spot.  I  know 
how  much  the  toil  and  suffering  of  man  is  alleviated,  in  these 
6 


66  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vin. 

far-off  regions,  by  the  tenderness  of  woman.  But  the  mission 
ary  is,  by  his  profession,  a  devoted  man ;  he  seeks,  in  this  life, 
not  his  own  happiness,  but  the  eternal  good  of  others.  Compare 
him  with  the  members  of  my  own  profession.  We  are  sustain 
ed  by  no  such  lofty  faith  as  must  be  supposed  to  animate  him, 
yet  we  find  it  possible  to  spend  years  upon  the  barren  deep,  ex 
posed  to  every  variety  of  climate,  and  seeking  peril  wherever  it 
may  be  found — and  all  without  the  aid  of  woman's  ministrations. 
Can  a  man,  vowed  to  the  service  of  a  Divine  Master,  think  it 
much  to  practise  similar  self-denial  ? 

5. — This  morning,  while  performing  my  ablutions  with  a 
large  sponge,  a  centipede,  four  and  a  half  inches  long,  crawled 
out  of  one  of  the  orifices,  and  ran  over  my  hand.  The  venom 
ous  reptile  was  killed,  without  any  harm  being  done.  It  had 
probably  been  hidden  in  one  of  a  number  of  large  land-shells, 
which  I  brought  on  board  a  day  or  two  ago.  His  touch  upon 
my  hand  was  the  most  disagreeable  sensation  that  I  have  yet 
experienced  in  Africa. 

For  a  month  past  it  has  rained  almost  every  night,  but  only 
three  or  four  times  during  the  day.  The  tornadoes  have  not 
troubled  us,  and  the  regular  land  and  sea-breezes  prevail. 

6. — At  4  P.  M.,  anchored  off  Cape  Palmas.  The  Decatur 
had  hardly  clewed  up  her  top-sails,  when  she  was  directed  by 
signal  to  make  sail  again.  Shortly  afterwards,  a  boat  from  the 
frigate  brought  us  intelligence  that  there  is  trouble  here  between 
the  natives  and  the  colonists.  The  boats  are  ordered  to  be  in 
readiness  to  go  ashore  to-morrow,  in  order  to  settle  a  palaver. 
The  Decatur  has  gone  to  Caraway  to  protect  the  missionaries 
there.  Thus  we  are  in  a  fair  way  to  have  plenty  of  work, 
palavering  with  the  natives  and  protecting  the  colonists.  Not 
improbably,  the  latter  have  felt  encouraged,  by  the  presence  of 
our  squadron,  to  assume  a  higher  tone  towards  the  natives  than 
heretofore.  But  we  shall  see. 

8. — We  landed,  this  morning,  with  nine  armed  boats,  to  ex 
amine  into  the  difficulties  above  alluded  to.  The  first  duty  that 
it  fell  to  our  lot  to  perform,  was  one  of  humanity.  We  had 
scarcely  reached  Governor  Russwurm's  house,  when,  observing 
a  crowd  of  people  about  a  mile  off,  on  the  beach,  we  learned 


CHAP,  viii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  67 

that  a  man  was  undergoing  the  ordeal  of  drinking  sassy- wood. 
The  Commodore,  with  most  of  the  officers,  hastened  immediately 
to  the  rescue.  On  approaching  the  spot,  we  saw  a  woman  with 
an  infant  on  her  back,  walking  to  and  fro,  wailing  bitterly,  and 
throwing  up  her  arms  in  agony.  Further  on,  we  met  four  chil 
dren,  from  eight  to  twelve  years  of  age,  crying  loudly  as  they 
came  towards  us,  and  apparently  imploring  us  to  save  their 
father.  Beyond  them,  and  as  near  the  crowd  as  she  dared  go, 
stood  a  young  woman,  supporting  herself  on  a  staff,  with  the 
tears  streaming  down  her  cheeks,  while  she  gazed  earnestly  at 
the  spot  where  her  husband  was  suffering.  Although  she  took 
no  notice  of  us,  her  low  moans  were  more  impressive  than  the 
vociferous  agony  of  the  former  woman  ;  and  we  could  not  but 
suppose  that  the  man  was  peculiarly  amiable  in  the  domestic 
relations,  since  his  impending  fate  awakened  more  grief  in  the 
hearts  of  two  wives,  than,  in  civilized  life,  we  generally  see 
exhibited  by  one.  Meeting  a  colonist,  with  intelligence  that  the 
victim  was  nearly  dead,  we  quickened  our  pace  to  a  fast  run. 

Before  we  could  reach  the  spot,  however,  the  man  had  been 
put  into  a  canoe,  and  paddled  out  into  a  lagoon  by  one  of  the 
party,  while  the  remainder  moved  on  to  meet  us.  The  Com 
modore  ordered  two  of  the  leaders  to  be  seized  and  kept  prison 
ers,  until  the  drinker  of  sassy- wood  should  be  given  up.  This 
had  the  desired  effect ;  and,  in  half  an  hour,  there  came  to  the 
Government  House  a  hard-featured  man  of  about  fifty,  escorted 
by  a  crowd,  no  small  portion  of  which  was  composed  of  his  own 
multifarious  wives  and  children,  all  displaying  symptoms  of 
high  satisfaction.  He  looked  much  exhausted,  but  was  taken 
into  the  house  and  treated  medically,  with  the  desired  success. 
When  sufficiently  recovered  he  will  be  sent  to  a  neighboring 
town,  where  he  must  remain,  until  permitted  by  the  customs  of 
his  people  to  return.  He  had  been  subjected  to  the  ordeal,  in 
order  to  test  the  truth  or  falsehood  of  an  accusation  brought 
against  him,  of  having  caused  the  death  of  a  man  of  conse 
quence,  by  incantations  and  necromantic  arts.  In  such  cases,  a 
strong  decoction  of  the  sassy-wood  bark  is  the  universally  ac 
knowledged  medium  of  coming  at  the  truth.  The  natives 


68  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vni. 

believe  that  the  tree  has  a  supernatural  quality,  potent  in  de 
stroying  witches  and  driving  out  evil  spirits ;  nor,  although  few 
escape,  do  the  accused  persons  often  object  to  quaffing  the  deadly 
draught.  If  it  fail  to  operate  fatally,  it  is  generally  by  the 
connivance  of  those  who  administer  it,  in  concocting  the  potion 
of  such  strength  that  the  stomach  shall  reject  it.  Should  the 
suspected  wizard  escape  the  operation  of  the  sassy-wood,  it  is 
customary  to  kill  him  by  beating  on  the  head  with  clubs  and 
stones ;  his  property  is  forfeited ;  and  the  party  accusing  him 
feast  on  the  cattle  of  their  victim.  The  man  whom  we  rescued 
had  taken  a  gallon  of  the  decoction  the  previous  evening, 
and  about  the  same  quantity  just  before  we  interrupted  the 
ordeal.  His  wealth  had  probably  excited  the  envy  of  his  ac 
cusers. 

We  had  just  returned  to  the  Government  House,  and  were 
about  to  seat  ourselves  at  the  dinner-table,  when  an  alarm-gun 
was  heard  from  Mount  Tubman.  A  messenger  soon  arrived  to 
say  that  the  natives  were  attempting  to  force  their  way  through 
the  settlement,  to  the  Cape.  The  marines,  together  with  all  the 
officers  who  could  be  spared,  were  instantly  on  the  march.  The 
Commodore  and  Governor  Russwurm  led  the  force,  on  horse 
back  ;  the  flag-lieutenant  and  myself  being  the  only  other  offi 
cers  fortunate  enough  to  procure  animals.  Mine  was  the 
queerest  charger  on  which  a  knight  ever  rode  to  battle  ;  a  little 
donkey,  scarcely  high  enough  to  keep  my  feet  from  the  ground  ; 
so  lazy  that  I  could  only  force  him  into  a  trot  by  the  continual 
prick  of  my  sword ;  and  so  vicious  that  he  threw  me  twice,  in 
requital  of  my  treatment.  The  rest  of  the  detachment  footed  it 
four  miles,  on  a  sandy  road,  and  under  the  scorching  sun.  On 
the  way  we  overtook  several  armed  colonists,  hurrying  to  the 
point  of  danger.  Passing  the  foot  of  Mount  Vaughan,  we 
reached  Mount  Tubman,  and,  ascending  a  steep,  conical  hill, 
found  ourselves  on  a  level  space  of  a  hundred  yards  in  diameter, 
with  a  strong  picket-fence  surrounding  it,  and  a  solitary  house 
in  the  centre.  Fifteen  or  sixteen  armed  men  were  on  the  watch, 
as  conscious  of  the  neighborhood  of  an  enemy ;  the  piazza  was 
crowded  with  women  and  children;  and  from  the  interior  of 


CHAP,  viii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  69 

the  house  came  the  merry  voices  of  above  a  score  of  little  boys 
and  girls,  ignorant  of  danger,  and  enjoying  a  high  frolic.  Apart, 
by  the  wall,  sat  a  blind  man,  grasping  his  staff  with  a  tremu 
lous  hand  ;  and  near  him  lay  a  sick  woman,  who  had  been 
brought  in  from  a  neighboring  farm-house.  All  these  indivi 
duals,  old  and  young,  had  been  driven  hither  for  refuge  by  the 
alarm  of  war. 

Not  far  off,  we  beheld  tokens  that  an  attack  had  been  made, 
and  sternly  resisted  by  the  little  garrison  of  the  stockade.  On 
the  side  opposite  the  Cape,  a  steep  path  rose  towards  the  gate. 
Some  twenty  yards  down  this  passage  lay  a  native,  dead,  with 
an  ugly  hole  in  his  scull ;  and,  in  a  narrow  path  to  the  right, 
was  stretched  another,  who  had  met  his  death  from  a  bullet- 
wound  in  the  centre  of  his  forehead.  The  ball  had  cut  the 
ligature  which  bound  his  "  greegree  "  of  shells  around  his  head, 
and  the  faithless  charm  lay  on  the  ground  beside  him.  Already, 
the  flies  were  beginning  to  cluster  about  the  dead  man's  mouth. 
The  attacking  party,  to  which  these  slain  individuals  belonged, 
were  of  the  Barroky  tribe.  It  is  supposed  that,  knowing  King 
Freeman  to  be  at  variance  with  the  colonists,  and  hearing  the 
salute  in  honor  of  the  Commodore's  landing,  they  mistook  it  for 
the  commencement  of  hostilities,  and  came  in  to  support  the 
native  party  and  gather  spoil. 

As  their  repulse  had  evidently  been  decisive,  we  looked 
around  us  to  enjoy  the  extensive  and  diversified  view  from  the 
summit  of  the  hill.  Casting  our  eyes  along  the  road  which  we 
had  just  passed,  the  principal  settlement  was  visible,  consisting 
of  two  separate  villages,  intermingled  with  large  native  towns, 
the  dwellings  in  which  greatly  outnumbered  those  of  the  colo 
nists.  On  one  side  of  the  rude  promontory  ran  a  small  river ; 
on  the  other,  the  sea  rolled  its  unquiet  waves.  At  a  short  dis 
tance  from  the  shore  was  seen  the  rocky  islet,  bearing  the  name 
of  Go-to-Hell,  where  the  natives  bury  their  dead.  Northward, 
were  the  farms  of  those  whom  the  recent  hostile  incursion  had 
driven  to  this  place  of  refuge.  In  various  directions,  several 
spurs  of  hills  were  visible,  on  one  of  which,  glittering  among 
the  trees,  appeared  the  white  edifices  of  the  Mount  Vaughan 
Episcopal  Mission. 


70  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  vm. 

On  our  return,  some  of  the  party  halted  at  the  Mission  esta 
blishment  ;  but  I  urged  my  little  donkey  onward,  and,  though 
this  warlike  episode  had  cost  me  a  dinner,  made  my  re-appear 
ance  at  the  Governor's  table  in  time  for  the  dessert. 


CHAP,  ix.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  71 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Palaver  with  King  Freeman — Remarks  on  the  Influence  of  Missionaries — 
Palaver  at  Rock  Boukir — Narrative  of  Captain  Fanvell's  Murder — Scene 
of  Embarkation  through  the  Surf — Sail  for  Little  Berebee. 

December  9. — AT  Cape  Palmas.  We  again  landed,  as  on 
the  preceding  day,  and  met  the  redoubtable  King  Freeman,  and 
twenty-three  other  kings  and  headmen  from  the  tribes  in  the 
vicinity.  The  palaver,  like  that  at  Sinoe,  was  held  in  the 
Methodist  Church  ;  the  Commodore,  the  Governor,  and  several 
officers  and  colonists,  appearing  on  one  side,  and  the  natives  on 
the  other.  There  were  several  striking  countenances  among 
the  four-and-twenty  negro  potentates,  and  some,  even,  that  bore 
the  marks  of  native  greatness ;  as  might  well  be  the  case,  in  a 
system  of  society  where  rank  and  authority  are,  in  a  great 
measure,  the  result  of  individual  talent  and  force  of  character. 
One  head  man  was  very  like  Henry  Clay,  both  in  face  and 
figure.  It  is  remarkable,  too,  that  one  of  the  chiefs  at  Sinoe  not 
only  had  a  strong  personal  resemblance  to  the  same  distinguished 
statesman — being,  as  it  were,  his  image  in  ebony,  or  bronze — 
but,  while  not  speaking,  moved  constantly  about  the  palaver- 
house,  as  is  Mr.  Clay's  habit  in  the  senate-chamber.  The 
interpreter,  on  the  present  occasion,  Yellow  Will  by  name,  was 
dressed  in  a  crimson  mantle  of  silk  damask,  poncho-shaped,  and 
trimmed  with  broad  gold  lace. 

The  palaver  being  opened,  the  colonists  complained  that  the 
chiefs  had  raised  to  double  what  it  had  been,  or  ought  to  be,  the 
prices  of  rice  and  other  products,  for  which  the  settlements  were 
dependent  upon  the  natives  ;  also,  that  they  would  permit  no  mer 
chant  vessels  to  communicate  with  the  colonial  town.  On  repre 
sentation  of  these  grievances,  the  Kings  agreed  to  rescind  the 
obnoxious  regulations.  This,  however,  did  not  satisfy  the 
Governor,  who  had  hoped  to  induce  King  Freeman  to  remove 


72  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  ix. 

his  town  to  another  site,  and  allow  the  colonists  more  room. 
As  matters  at  present  stand,  the  King's  capital  city  is  within 
three  hundred  yards  of  Governor  Russwurm's  house,  and 
entirely  disunites  the  colonial  settlements  on  the  Cape.  In  case 
of  war,  the  communication  between  these  two  sections  of  the 
town  of  Harper  would  be  completely  broken  off.  The  Governor, 
therefore,  proposed  that  King  Freeman  should  sell  his  land  on 
the  Cape,  receiving  a  fair  equivalent  from  the  colony,  and  should 
transplant  his  town  across  the  river,  or  elsewhere.  But  the 
King  showed  no  inclination  to  comply ;  nor  did  the  Commodore, 
apparently,  deem  it  his  province  to  support  Governor  Russwurm, 
or  take  any  part  in  the  question.  The  point  was  accordingly 
given  up  ;  the  Governor  merely  requesting  King  Freeman  to 
"  look  his  head,"  that  is,  consider — and  let  him  know  his  deter- 
mination. 

There  was  also  a  complaint  made,  on  the  part  of  the  mission 
aries,  that  the  natives  had  cut  off  their  .supplies,  and  had 
attempted  to  take  away  the  native  children,  who  had  been  given 
them  to  educate.  I  was  subsequently  informed,  however,  by 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Hazlehurst,  that  the  missionaries  had  no  difficulty 
with  the  natives,  and  did  not  wish  their  affairs  to  be  identified 
with  those  of  the  colonists.  The  above  representation,  there 
fore,  appears  to  have  been  unauthorized  by  the  mission  establish 
ment.  And  here,  without  presuming  to  offer  an  opinion  as 
respects  their  conduct  at  this  particular  juncture,  I  must  be 
allowed  to  say,  that  the  missionaries  at  Liberia  have  shown 
themselves  systematically  disposed  to  claim  a  position  entirely 
independent  of  the  colonies.  They  are  supported  by  wealthy 
and  powerful  societies  at  home ;  they  have  been  accustomed  to 
look  upon  their  own  race  as  superior  to  the  colored  people ;  they 
are  individually  conscious,  no  doubt,  in  many  cases,  of  an  intel 
lectual  standing  above  that  of  the  persons  prominent  among  the 
emigrants ;  and  they  are  not  always  careful  to  conceal  their 
sense  of  such  general  or  particular  superiority.  It  is  certain, 
too,  that  the  native  Africans  regard  the  whites  with  much 
greater  respect  than  those  of  their  own  color.  Hence,  it  is 
almost  impossible  but  that  jealousy  of  missionary  influence 
should  exist  in  the  minds  of  the  colonial  authorities.  The  latter 


CHAP  ix.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  73 

perceive,  in  the  midst  of  their  commonwealth,  an  alien  power, 
exercised  by  persons  not  entitled  to  the  privileges  of  citizenship, 
and  to  whom  it  was  never  intended  to  allow  voice  or  action  in 
public  affairs.  By  such  a  state  of  things,  the  progress  of 
Christianity  and  civilisation  must  be  rather  retarded  than  ad 
vanced. 

There  is  reason,  therefore,  to  doubt  whether  the  labors  of 
white  missionaries,  in  the  territory  over  which  the  colonists 
exercise  jurisdiction,  is,  upon  the  whole,  beneficial.  If  removed 
beyond  those  limits,  and  insulated  among  the  natives,  they  may 
accomplish  infinite  good  ;  but  not  while  assuming  an  anoma 
lous  position  of  independence,  and  thwarting  the  great  experi 
ment  which  the  founders  of  Liberia  had  in  view.  One  grand 
object  of  these  colonies  is,  to  test  the  disputed  and  doubtful 
point,  whether  the  colored  race  be  capable  of  sustaining  them 
selves  without  the  aid  or  presence  of  the  whites.  In  order  to  a 
fair  trial  of  the  question,  it  seems  essential  that  none  but  colored 
missionaries  should  be  sent  hither.  The  difficulties  between  the 
Government  and  the  Methodist  Episcopal  mission  confirm  these 
views.  At  a  former  period,  that  mission  possessed  power  almost 
sufficient  to  subvert  the  Colonial  rule. 

Let  it  not  be  supposed,  that  these  remarks  are  offered  in  any 
spirit  of  hostility  to  missionaries.  My  intercourse  with  them  in 
different  parts  of  the  world,  has  been  of  the  most  friendly 
nature.  I  owe  much  to  their  kindness,  and  can  bear  cheerful 
testimony  to  the  laborious,  self-devoting  spirit  in  which  they  do 
their  duty.  At  Athens,  I  have  seen  them  toiling  unremittingly, 
for  years,  to  educate  the  ignorant  and  degraded  descendants  of 
the  ancient  Greeks,  and  was  proud  that  my  own  country — in  a 
hemisphere  of  which  Plato  never  dreamed — should  have  sent 
back  to  Greece  a  holier  wisdom  than  he  diffused  from  thence. 
In  the  unhealthy  isle  of  Cyprus,  I  have  beheld  them  perishing 
without  a  murmur,  and  their  places  filled  with  new  votaries, 
stepping  over  the  graves  of  the  departed,  and  not  less  ready  to 
spend  and  be  spent  in  the  cause  of  their  Divine  Master.  I  have 
witnessed  the  flight  of  whole  families  from  the  mountains  of 
Lebanon,  where  they  had  lingered  until  its  cedars  were  pros 
trate  beneath  the  storm  of  war,  and  only  then  came  to  shelter 


74  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  ix. 

themselves  under  the  flag  of  their  country.  Everywhere,  the 
spirit  of  the  American  Missionaries  has  been  honorable  to  their 
native  land  ;  nor,  whatever  be  their  human  imperfections,  is  it 
too  much  to  term  them  holy  in  their  lives,  and  often  martyrs  in 
their  deaths.  And  none  more  so  than  the  very  men  of  whom  I 
now  speak,  in  these  sickly  regions  of  Africa,  where  I  behold 
them  sinking,  more  or  less  gradually,  but  with  certainty,  and 
destitute  of  almost  every  earthly  comfort,  into  their  graves.  I 
criticise  portions  of  their  conduct,  but  reverence  their  purity  of 
motive  ;  and  only  regret,  that,  while  divesting  themselves  of  so 
much  that  is  worldly,  they  do  not  retain  either  more  wisdom  of 
this  world,  or  less  aptness  to  apply  a  disturbing  influence  to 
worldly  affairs. 

But  it  is  time  to  return  from  this  digression.  Matters  being 
now  in  a  good  train  at  Cape  Palmas,  we  go  to  use  our  pacific 
influence  elsewhere. 

10. — We  sailed  at  daylight,  and  anchored  this  evening  at 
Rock  Boukir. 

11. — In  the  morning,  twelve  armed  boats  were  sent  ashore 
from  the  three  ships.  We  landed  on  an  open  beach,  all  in 
safety,  but  more  or  less  drenched  by  the  dangerous  surf.  One 
or  two  boats  took  in  heavy  seas,  broached  to,  and  rolled  over 
and  over  in  the  gigantic  surf- wave.  On  landing,  we  found  a  body 
of  armed  natives,  perhaps  fifty  in  number,  drawn  up  in  a  line. 
Their  weapons  were  muskets,  iron  war-spears,  long  fish-spears 
of  wood,  and  broad  knives.  They  made  no  demonstrations  of 
opposing  us,  but  stood  stoutly  in  their  ranks,  showing  more  in 
dependence  of  bearing  and  less  fear,  than  any  natives  whom  we 
have  met  with.  They  were  evidently  under  military  rule,  and, 
as  well  as  the  remainder  of  the  tribe,  evinced  a  degree  of  bold- 
ness,  amounting  almost  to  insolence,  which,  it  must  be  owned, 
would  have  made  our  party  the  more  ready  for  a  tustle,  on  any 
reasonable  pretext. 

The  town  of  Rock  Boukir  is  enclosed  by  palisades,  about 
eight  feet  high,  with  small  gates  on  every  side.  It  was  not  the 
purpose  of  the  natives  to  admit  us  within  their  walls ;  but  a  rain 
made  it  desirable  that  the  palaver  should  be  held  in  a  sheltered 
place,  instead  of  on  the  beach,  as  had  been  originally  intended. 


CHAP.  IT.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  75 

We  therefore  marched  in,  took  possession  of  the  place,  and 
stationed  sentinels  at  every  gate.  The  town  was  entirely  de 
serted  ;  for  the  warriors  had  gone  forth  to  fight,  if  a  fight  there 
was  to  be  ;  and  the  women  and  children  were  sent  for  security 
into  the  "  bush."  In  the  central  square  stood  the  Palaver 
House,  beneath  the  shadow  of  a  magnificent  wide-spreading 
tree,  which  had  perhaps  mingled  the  murmur  of  its  leaves  with 
the  eloquence  of  the  native  orators,  for  at  least  a  century.  Here 
we  posted  ourselves,  and  awaited  the  King  of  Rock  Boukir. 

The  messengers  announced,  that  he  wished  to  bring  his  armed 
men  within  the  walls,  and  occupy  one  side  of  the  town,  while 
our  party  held  the  other.  As  this  proposition  was  not  imme 
diately  acceded  to,  and  as  the  King  would  not  recede,  it  seemed 
doubtful  whether  there  would  be  any  palaver,  after  all.  At  length, 
however,  the  Commodore  ordered  the  removal  of  our  sentinels 
from  the  gates,  on  one  side  of  the  town,  and  consented  that  the 
native  warriors  should  come  in.  A  further  delay  was  account 
ed  for,  on  the  plea  that  the  King  was  putting  on  his  robes  of  state. 
Finally,  he  enterfd  the  Palaver  House  and  seated  himself;  an 
old  man  of  sinister  aspect,  meanly  dressed,  and  having  for  his 
only  weapon  a  short  sword,  with  a  curved  blade,  six  inches 
wide.  Governor  Roberts  now  opened  the  palaver,  by  informing 
the  king  that  his  tribe  were  suspected  of  having  participated  in  the 
plunder  of  the  Mary  Carver,  and  the  murder  of  her  captain  and 
crew.  I  subjoin  a  brief  narrative  of  this  affair. 

Two  years  since,  the  schooner  Mary  Carver,  of  Salem,  com 
manded  by  Captain  Farwell  of  Vassal  bo ro',  was  anchored  at 
Half  Berebee,  for  the  purpose  of  trading  with  the  natives.  Her 
cargo  was  valued  at  twelve  thousand  dollars.  Captain  Farwell 
felt  great  confidence  in  the  people  of  Half  Berebee,  although 
warned  not  to  trust  them  too  far,  as  they  had  the  character  of 
being  fierce  and  treacherous.  One  day,  being  alone  on  shore, 
the  natives  knocked  him  down,  bound  him,  and  delivered  him  to 
the  women  and  children,  to  be  tortured  by  sticking  thorns  into 
his  flesh.  After  three  hours  of  this  horrible  agony,  the  men  des 
patched  him.  As  soon  as  the  captain  was  secured,  a  large 
party  was  sent  on  board  the  vessel,  to  surprise  and  murder  the 
mate  and  crew.  In  this  they  were  perfectly  successful ;  not  a 


76  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  ix. 

soul  on  board  escaped.  They  then  took  part  of  the  goods  out, 
and  ran  the  schooner  ashore,  where  she  was  effectually  plun 
dered.  Within  a  space  of  twelve  miles  along  the  beach,  there 
are  five  or  six  families  of  Fishmen,  ruled  by  different  members 
of  the  Cracko  family,  of  which  Ben  Cracko  of  Half  Berebee  is 
the  head.  All  these  towns  were  implicated  in  the  plot,  and  re 
ceived  a  share  of  the  plunder.  A  Portuguese  schooner  had  been 
taken,  and  her  crew  murdered,  at  the  same  place,  a  year  before. 
The  business  had  turned  out  so  profitably,  that  other  tribes  on 
the  coast  began  to  envy  the  good  fortune  of  the  Crackos,  and 
declared  that  they  likewise  were  going  to  "  catch"  a  vessel. 

The  object  of  our  present  palaver  was  to  inquire  into  the 
alleged  agency  of  the  tribe  at  Rock  Boukir  in  the  above  trans 
action.  The  King,  speaking  in  his  own  language,  strenuously 
denied  the  charge ;  at  the  same  time  touching  his  ears  and 
drawing  his  tongue  over  his  short  curved  broad-sword.  By 
these  symbols  and  hieroglyphics,  I  supposed  him  to  mean,  that 
he  had  merely  heard  of  the  affair,  and  that  his  sword  was  inno 
cent  of  the  blood  imputed  to  him.  It  seems,  however,  that  it  is 
the  native  form  of  taking  an  oath,  equivalent  to  our  kissing  the 
book.  The  King  agreed  to  go  to  Berebee,  and  assist  in  the 
grand  palaver  to  be  held  there ;  complying  with  a  proposal  of 
the  Commodore,  to  take  passage  thither  in  the  Macedonian. 
Matters  being  so  far  settled,  the  council  was  broken  up,  and  the 
party  re-embarked. 

Several  of  the  boats  having  been  anchored  outside  of  the  surf, 
the  officers  and  men  were  carried  off  to  them  in  the  native 
canoes.  The  scene  on  the  beach  was  quite  animated.  Hun 
dreds  of  natives,  having  laid  aside  their  weapons,  crowded 
around  to  watch  the  proceedings.  The  women  and  children 
came  from  the  woods  in  swarms,  all  talking,  screaming,  laugh 
ing,  and  running  hither  and  thither.  The  canoes  were  con 
stantly  passing  from  the  shore  to  the  boats,  carrying  two  per 
sons  at  a  time.  Our  men,  being  unaccustomed  to  such  rough 
water  and  unsteady  conveyances,  often  capsized  the  canoes 
and  were  tumbled  ashore  by  the  surf,  perhaps  with  the  loss  of 
hats,  jackets,  or  weapons.  Here  was  visible  the  head  of  a 
marine,  swimming  to  one  of  the  boats,  with  his  musket  in  his 


CHAP.  «.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  77 

hand.  Another,  unable  to  swim,  was  upheld  by  a  Krooman. 
Here  and  there,  an  impatient  individual  plunged  into  the  surf 
and  struck  out  for  his  boat,  rather  than  await  the  tedious  pro- 
cess  of  embarkation.  All  reached  the  vessels  in  safety,  but  few 
with  dry  jackets.  His  majesty  of  Rock  Boukir,  too,  went  on 
board  the  frigate,  according  to  agreement,  and  probably,  by  thia 
mark  of  confidence,  saved  his  capital  from  the  flames.  If  all 
stories  be  true,  he  little  deserves  our  clemency ;  and  it  is  even 
said,  that  the  different  tribes  held  a  grand  palaver  at  this  place, 
for  the  division  of  the  spoil  of  the  Mary  Carver. 

We  set  sail  immediately. 

12.— Anchored  at  half  past  five  P.  M.,  off  Little  Berebee. 


78  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Palaver  at  Little  Berebee — Death  of  the  Interpreter  and  King  Ben  Cracko, 
and  burning  of  the  Town — Battle  with  the  Natives,  and  Conflagration  of 
several  Towns — Turkey  Buzzards — A  Love-Letter — Moral  Reflections — 
Treaty  of  Grand  Berebee — Prince  Jumbo  and  his  Father— Native  system 
of  Expresses — Curiosity  of  the  Natives. 

December  13. — AT  nine  A.  M.,  the  boats  of  the  squadron  re 
paired  to  the  flag-ship,  where  they  were  formed  in  line,  and  then 
pulled  towards  the  shore  abreast.  The  landing-place  is  tolera 
bly  good,  but  contracted.  Four  or  five  boats  might  easily  ap 
proach  it  together  ;  but  when  most  of  the  thirteen  attempted  it  at 
once,  so  narrow  was  the  space,  that  one  or  two  of  them  filled. 
They  were  hauled  up,  however,  and  secured.  Our  force,  on 
being  disembarked,  was  stationed  in  line,  opposite  the  town  of 
Little  Berebee,  and  the  wood  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Many 
of  the  officers  went  up  to  the  Palaver  House,  a  temporary  shed 
erected  for  the  occasion,  about  fifty  yards  from  the  town-gate. 
King  Ben  Cracko  now  making  his  appearance,  with  five  or  six 
headmen  or  kings  of  the  neighboring  tribes,  the  palaver  began. 

The  interpreter,  on  this  occasion,  was  well  known  to  have 
been,  in  his  own  person,  a  leading  character  in  the  act  of  piracy 
and  murder,  which  it  was  the  object  of  the  palaver  to  investigate. 
He  had  therefore  a  difficult  part  to  act ;  one  that  required  great 
nerve,  and  such  a  talent  of  throwing  a  fair  semblance  over  foul 
facts,  as  few  men,  civilized  or  savage,  are  likely  to  possess. 
With  the  consciousness  of  guilt  upon  him,  causing  him  to  startle 
at  the  first  aspect  of  peril,  it  is  singular  that  the  man  should  have 
had  the  temerity  to  trust  himself  in  so  trying  a  position.  His 
version  of  the  Mary  Carver  affair  was  a  very  wretched  piece  of 
fiction.  He  declared  that  Captain  Farwell  had  killed  two  na 
tives,  and  that  old  King  Cracko,  since  deceased,  had  punished 
the  captain  by  death,  in  the  exercise  of  his  legitimate  authority. 


CHAP,  x.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  79 

He  denied  that  the  tribe  had  participated  in  Captain  Farwell's 
murder,  or  in  those  of  the  mate  and  crew,  or  in  the  robbery  of 
the  vessel ;  affirming  that  the  schooner  had  gone  ashore,  and  that 
everything  was  lost.  All  this  was  a  tissue  of  falsehood  ;  it  being 
notorious  that  a  large  quantity  of  goods  from  the  wreck,  and  por 
tions  of  the  vessel  itself,  were  distributed  among  the  towns  along 
the  coast.  It  was  well  known,  moreover,  that  these  people  had 
boasted  of  having  "  caught"  (to  use  their  own  phrase),  an  Amer 
ican  vessel,  and  that  the  neighboring  tribes  had  threatened  to  fol 
low  Ben  Cracko's  example. 

Governor  Roberts,  who  conducted  the  examination  on  our  part, 
expressed  to  the  man  his  utter  disbelief  of  the  above  statements. 
The  Commodore,  likewise,  stept  hastily  towards  him,  sternly 
warning  him  to  utter  no  more  falsehoods.  The  interpreter,  per 
ceiving  that  the  impression  was  against  him,  and  probably  ex 
pecting  to  be  instantly  made  prisoner,  or  put  to  death,  now  lost 
the  audacity  that  had  hitherto  sustained  him.  At  this  moment, 
it  is  said,  a  gun  was  fired  at  our  party,  from  the  town  ;  and, 
simultaneously  with  the  report,  the  interpreter  sprang  away  like 
a  deer.  There  was  a  cry  to  stop  him — two  or  three  musket- 
bullets  whistled  after  the  fugitive  as  he  ran — but  he  had  nearly 
reached  the  town-gate,  when  his  limbs,  while  strained  to  their 
utmost  energy,  suddenly  failed  beneath  him.  A  rifle-shot 
had  struck  him  in  the  vertebrae  of  the  neck,  causing  instantane 
ous  death.  Meanwhile,  King  Ben  Cracko  had  made  a  bolt  to 
escape,  but  was  seized  by  his  long  calico  robe  ;  which,  however, 
gave  way,  leaving  him  literally  naked  in  the  rnidst  of  his  ene 
mies.  A  shot  brought  him  to  the  ground ;  but  he  sprang  to  his 
feet,  still  struggling  to  escape.  He  next  received  two  bayonet 
wounds,  but  fought  like  a  wild  beast,  until  two  or  three  men  flung 
themselves  upon  him,  and  held  him  down  by  main  force.  Find 
ing  himself  overpowered,  he  pretended  to  be  dead,  but  was  secure 
ly  bound,  and  taken  to  the  beach.  A  lion  of  the  African  deserts 
could  not  have  shown  a  fiercer  energy  than  this  savage  King ; 
and  those  who  gazed  at  him,  as  he  lay  motionless  on  the  sand, 
confessed  that  they  had  never  seen  a  frame  of  such  masculine 
vigor  as  was  here  displayed.  1 1  is  wounds  proved  mortal. 

The  melee  had  been  as  sudden  as  the  explosion  of  gunpowder ; 


80  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  x. 

it  was  wholly  unexpected,  but  perhaps  not  to  be  wondered  at, 
where  two  parties,  with  weapons  in  their  hands,  had  met  to  dis 
cuss  a  question  of  robbery  and  murder.  When  the  firing  com 
menced,  about  two  hundred  natives  were  on  the  spot,  or  in  the 
vicinity ;  they  were  now  flying  in  all  directions,  some  along  the 
beach,  a  few  into  the  sea  itself,  but  by  far  the  greatest  number 
to  the  woods.  Many  shots  were  fired,  notwithstanding  the  Com 
modore's  orders  to  refrain.  We  were  now  directed  to  break  down 
the  palisades,  arid  set  fire  to  the  town.  A  breach  of  twenty  or 
thirty  feet  was  soon  made  in  the  wall,  by  severing  the  withes  that 
bound  together  the  upright  planks.  Before  this  could  be  effected, 
another  party  crept  through  the  small  holes,  serving  the  purpose 
of  gates,  and  penetrated  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  where,  assem 
bling  around  the  great  council-tree,  they  gave  three  cheers.  The 
houses  were  then  set  on  fire,  and,  within  fifteen  minutes,  present 
ed  one  mass  of  conflagration.  The  palisades  likewise  caught 
the  flames,  and  were  consumed,  leaving  an  open  space  of  blacken 
ed  and  smoking  ruins,  where,  half  an  hour  before,  the  sun  had 
shone  upon  a  town. 

The  natives  did  not  remain  idle  spectators  of  the  destruction 
of  their  houses.  Advancing  to  the  edge  of  the  woods,  they  dis 
charged  their  muskets  at  us,  loaded  not  with  Christian  bullets, 
but  with  copper-slugs,  probably  manufactured  out  of  the  spikes 
of  the  Mary  Carver.  A  marine  was  struck  in  the  side  by  one  of 
these  missiles,  which  tumbled  him  over,  but  without  inflicting  a 
serious  wound.  A  party  from  our  ship  penetrated  the  woods 
behind  the  town,  where  one  of  them  fired  at  an  object  which  he 
perceived  moving  in  the  underbrush.  Going  up  to  the  spot,  it 
proved  to  be  a  very  aged  man,  apparently  on  the  verge  of  a  cen 
tury,  much  emaciated,  and  too  feeble  to  crawl  further  in  com 
pany  with  his  flying  towns-people.  He  was  unharmed  by  the 
shot,  but  evidently  expected  instant  death,  and  held  up  his  hand 
in  supplication.  Our  party  placed  the  poor  old  patriarch  in  a 
more  sheltered  spot,  and  left  him  there,  after  supplying  him 
with  food  ;  an  act  of  humanity  which  must  have  seemed  to  him 
very  singular,  if  not  absurd,  in  contrast  with  the  mischief  which 
we  had  wrought  upon  his  home  and  people.  Meantime,  the 
ships  were  disposed  to  have  a  share  in  the  fight,  and  opened  a 


CHAP,  x.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  81 

cannonade  upon  the  woods,  shattering  the  great  branches  of  the 
trees,  and  adding  to  the  terror,  if  not  to  the  loss,  of  tin-  enemy. 
Little  Berebee  being  now  a  heap  of  ashes.  NSC  re-rmluirked. 
taking  with  us  an  American  flag,  probably  that  of  the  Mary 
Carver,  which  had  been  found  in  the  town.  We  also  made 
prizes  of  several  canoes,  one  of  which  was  built  for  war,  and  ca 
pable  of  carrying  forty  men.  The  wounded  King  Cracko, 
likewise,  was  taken  on  board  the  frigate,  where,  next  morning, 
he  breathed  his  last ;  thus  expiating  the  outrage  in  which,  two 
years  before,  he  had  been  a  principal  actor.  We  afterwards 
understood  that  the  natives  suffered  a  loss  of  eight  killed  ami  two 
wounded. 

15. — The  season  for  palavers  and  diplomacy  being  now  over, 
we  landed  at  seven  o'clock  this  morning,  ten  or  twelve  miles 
below  Berebee,  in  order  to  measure  out  a  further  retribution  to 
the  natives.  On  approaching  the  beach,  we  were  fired  upon 
from  the  bushes,  but  without  damage,  although  the  enemy  were 
sheltered  within  twenty  yards  of  the  water's  edge.  The  boat's 
crew  first  ashore,  together  with  two  or  three  marines,  charged 
into  the  shrubbery  and  drove  off  tho  assailants.  All  being  dis 
embarked,  the  detachment  was  formed  in  line,  and  marched  to 
the  nearest  town,  which  was  immediately  attacked.  Like  the 
other  native  towns,  it  was  protected  by  a  wall  of  high  palisades, 
planted  firmly  in  the  soil,  and  bound  together  by  thongs  of  bam 
boo.  Cutting  a  passage  through  these,  we  entered  the  place, 
which  contained  perhaps  a  hundred  houses,  neatly  built  of  wicker- 
work,  and  having  their  high  conical  roofs  thatched  with  palmetto- 
leaves.  Such  edifices  were  in  the  highest  degree  combustible, 
and  being  set  on  fire,  it  was  worth  while  for  a  lover  of  the  pic 
turesque  to  watch  the  flames,  as  they  ran  up  the  conical  roofs, 
and  meeting  at  the  apex,  whirled  themselves  fiercely  into  the 
darkened  air. 

While  this  was  going  on,  the  war-bells,  drums,  and  war-horns 
of  the  natives  were  continually  sounding;  and  flocks  of  vultures 
(perhaps  a  more  accurate  ornithologist  might  call  them  turkey- 
buzzards)  appeared  in  the  sky,  wheeling  slowly  and  heavily 
over  our  heads.  These  ravenous  birds  seemed  to  have  a  pre 
sentiment  that  there  were  deeds  of  valor  to  be  done  ;  nor  was  it 
7 


82  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  x. 

quite  a  comfortable  idea,  that  some  of  them,  ere  nightfall,  might 
gratify  their  appetite  at  one's  own  personal  expense.  To  confess 
the  truth,  however,  they  were  probably  attracted  by  the  scent  of 
some  slaughtered  bullocks ;  it  being  indifferent  to  a  turkey- 
buzzard  whether  he  prey  on  a  cow  or  a  Christian.  After  des 
troying  the  first  town,  we  marched  about  a  mile  and  a  half  up 
the  beach,  to  attack  a  second.  On  our  advance,  the  marine 
drummer  and  fifer  were  ordered  from  the  front  of  the  column  to 
the  rear,  as  being  a  position  of  less  danger.  They  of  course 
obeyed ;  but  the  little  drummer  deeming  it  a  reflection  upon  his 
courage,  burst  into  tears,  and  actually  blubbered  aloud  as  he 
beat  the  pas  de  charge.  It  was  a  strange  operation  of  manly 
spirit  in  a  boyish  stage  of  development. 

As  we  approached  the  second  town,  our  boat-keepers,  who 
watched  the  scene,  distinctly  saw  a  party  of  thirty  or  forty 
natives  lying  behind  a  palisade,  with  their  guns  pointed  at  our 
advanced  guard.  Unconscious  that  the  enemy  were  so  near,  we 
halted  for  an  instant,  about  forty  yards  from  the  town,  and  then 
advanced  at  a  run.  This  so  disconcerted  the  defenders  that 
they  fled,  after  firing  only  a  few  shots,  none  of  which  took  effect. 
In  fact,  the  natives  proved  themselves  but  miserable  marksmen. 
They  can  seldom  hit  an  object  in  motion,  although,  if  a  man 
stand  still,  they  sometimes  manage  to  put  a  copper-slug  into  his 
body,  by  taking  aim  a  long  time.  After  firing,  the  savage  runs 
a  long  distance  before  he  ventures  to  load.  Had  their  skill  or 
their  hardihood  been  greater,  we  must  have  suffered  severely  ; 
for  the  woods  extended  nearly  to  the  water's  edge,  and  exposed 
us,  during  the  whole  day,  to  the  fire  of  a  sheltered  and  invisible 
enemy. 

After  the  storm  and  conflagration  of  the  second  town,  we  took 
a  brief  rest,  and  then  proceeded  to  capture  and  burn  another, 
situated  about  a  mile  to  the  northward.  This  accomplished,  we 
judged  it  to  be  dinner-time.  Indeed,  we  had  done  work 
enough  to  ensure  an  appetite ;  and  history  does  not  make  men- 
tion,  so  far  as  I  am  aware,  of  such  destruction  of  cities  so  expe- 
ditiously  effected.  Having  emptied  our  baskets,  we  advanced 
about  three  miles  along  the  beach — still  with  the  slugs  of  the 
enemy  whistling  in  our  ears — and  gave  to  the  devouring  element 


CHAP,  x.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  83 


another  town.  Man  is  perhaps  never  happier  than  when  his 
native  destructiveness  can  be  freely  exercised,  and  with  the  bene 
volent  complacency  of  performing  a  good  action,  instead  of  the 
remorse  of  perpetrating  a  bad  one.  It  unites  the  charms  of  sin 
and  virtue.  Thus,  in  all  probability,  few  of  us  had  ever  spent  a 
day  of  higher  enjoyment  than  this,  when  we  roamed  about,  with 
a  musket  in  one  hand  and  a  torch  in  the  other,  devastating  what 
had  hitherto  been  the  homes  of  a  people. 

One  of  the  sweetest  spots  that  I  have  seen  in  Africa,  was  a 
little  hamlet  of  three  houses,  standing  apart  from  the  four  large 
towns  above-mentioned,  and  surrounded  by  an  impervious  hedge 
of  thorn-bushes,  with  two  palisaded  entrances.  Forcing  our 
way  through  one  of  these  narrow  portals,  we  beheld  a  grassy 
area  of  about  fifty  yards  across,  overshadowed  by  a  tree  of  very 
dense  foliage,  which  had  its  massive  roots  in  the  centre,  and 
spread  its  great  protecting  branches  over  the  whole  enclosure. 
The  three  dwellings  were  of  the  same  sort  of  basket-work  as 
those  already  described,  but  particularly  neat,  and  giving  a  picas. 
ant  impression  of  the  domestic  life  of  their  inhabitants.  This  small, 
secluded  hamlet  had  probably  been  the  residence  of  one  family, 
a  patriarch,  perhaps,  with  his  descendants  to  the  third  or  fourth 
generation — who,  beneath  that  shadowy  tree,  must  have  enjoyed 
all  the  happiness  of  which  uncultivated  man  is  susceptible.  Nor 
would  it  be  too  great  a  stretch  of  liberality,  to  suppose  that  the 
green  hedge  of  impervious  thorns  had  kept  out  the  vices  of  their 
race,  and  that  the  little  area  within  was  a  sphere  where  all  the 
virtues  of  the  native  African  had  been  put  in  daily  practice. 
These  three  dwellings,  and  the  verdant  wall  around  them,  and 
the  great  tree  that  brooded  over  the  whole,  might  unquestionably 
have  been  spared,  with  safety  to  our  consciences.  But  when 
man  takes  upon  himself  the  office  of  an  avenger  by  the  sword, 
he  is  not  to  be  perplexed  with  such  little  scrupulosities,  as 
whether  one  individual  or  family  be  less  guilty  than  the  rest. 
Providence,  it  is  to  be  presumed,  will  find  some  method  of  setting 
such  matters  right.  In  fine,  when  the  negro  patriarch's  strong 
sable  sons  supported  their  decrepit  sire  homeward,  with  their 
wives,  "black,  but  comely,"  bearing  the  glistening,  satin-skinned 
babies  on  their  backs,  and  their  other  little  ebony  responsibilities 


84  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  *, 

trudging  in  the  rear,  there  must  have  been  a  dismal  wail ;  for 
there  was  the  ancestral  tree,  its  foliage  shrivelled  with  fire, 
stretching  out  its  desolate  arms  over  the  ashes  of  the  three 
wicker  dwellings. 

The  business  of  the  day  was  over.  Besides  short  excursions, 
and  charges  into  the  bush,  the  men  had  marched  and  counter 
marched  at  least  twelve  miles  upon  the  beach,  with  the  surf 
sometimes  rolling  far  beyond  our  track.  Some  hundreds  of  slugs 
had  been  fired  at  us ;  and,  on  our  part,  we  had  blazed  away  at 
every  native  who  had  ventured  to  show  his  face ;  but  the  amount 
of  casualties,  after  such  a  day  of  battle,  reminds  one  of  the 
bloodless  victories  and  defeats  of  an  Italian  army,  during  the 
middle  ages.  In  a  word,  we  had  but  two  men  wounded  ;  and 
whether  any  of  the  enemy  were  killed  or  no,  it  is  impossible  to 
say.  At  all  events,  we  slew  a  number  of  neat  cattle,  eight  or 
nine  of  which  were  sent  on  board  the  ships,  where  they  answered 
a  much  better  purpose  than  as  many  human  carcasses.  The 
other  spoil  consisted  of  several  canoes,  together  with  numerous 
household  utensils — which  we  shall  bring  home  as  trophies  and 
curiosities.  There  was  also  a  chain  cable,  and  many  other 
articles  belonging  to  the  Mary  Carver,  and  a  pocket-book, 
containing  a  letter  addressed  to  Captain  Robert  McFarland.  The 
purport  of  the  epistle  is  not  a  matter  of  public  interest ;  but  it 
was  written  in  a  lady's  delicate  hand,  and  was  probably  warm 
with  affection ;  and  little  did  the  fair  writer  dream  that  her 
missive  would  find  its  way  into  an  African  hut,  where  it  was 
probably  regarded  as  a  piece  of  witchcraft. 

Thus  ended  the  warfare  of  Little  Berebee.  The  degree  of 
retribution  meted  out  had  by  no  means  exceeded  what  the  original 
outrage  demanded ;  and  the  mode  of  it  was  sanctioned  by  the 
customs  of  the  African  people.  According  to  their  unwritten 
laws,  if  individuals  of  a  tribe  commit  a  crime  against  another 
tribe  or  nation,  the  criminal  must  either  be  delivered  up,  or 
punished  at  home,  or  the  tribe  itself  becomes  responsible  for 
their  guilt.  An  example  was  of  peremptory  necessity;  and  the 
American  vessels  trading  on  the  coast  will  long  experience  a 
good  effect  from  this  day's  battle  and  destruction.  The  story 
will  be  remembered  in  the  black  man's  traditions,  and  will  have 


CHAP,  x.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


its  due  weigm  in  many  a  palaver.  Nevertheless,  though  the 
burning  of  villages  be  a  very  pretty  pastime,  yet  it  leaves  us  in 
a  moralizing  mood,  as  most  pleasures  are  apt  to  do ;  and  one 
would  fain  hope  that  civilized  man,  in  his  controversies  with  the 
barbarian,  will  at  length  cease  to  descend  to  the  barbarian  level, 
and  may  adopt  some  other  method  of  proving  his  superiority, 
than  by  his  greater  power  to  inflict  suffering.  For  myself 
personally,  the  "good  old  way"  suits  me  tolerably  enough; 
but  I  am  disinterestedly  anxious  that  posterity  should  find 
a  better. 

16. — We  sailed  at  day-light  for  Grand  Berebee.  bearing  the 
point  on  which  it  is  situated,  the  ships  hoisted  white  flags  at  the 
fore,  in  token  of  amity.  A  message  was  sent  on  shore  to  the 
King,  who  came  off  in  a  large  canoe,  and  set  his  hand  to  a  treaty, 
promising  to  keep  good  faith  with  American  vessels.  He  like 
wise  made  himself  responsible  for  the  good  conduct  of  the  other 
tribes  in  the  vicinity. 

On  board  the  Macedonian,  there  were  five  prisoners,  who  had 
been  taken  two  months  ago,  by  the  brig  Porpoise.  One  was  the 
eldest  son  of  this  King,  and  the  others  belonged  to  his  tribe.  The 
meeting  between  the  King  and  prince  was  very  affecting,  and 
fully  proved  that  nature  has  not  left  these  wild  people  destitute 
of  warmth  and  tenderness  of  heart.  They  threw  themselves 
into  each  other's  arms,  wept,  laughed,  and  danced  for  joy.  To 
the  King,  his  son  was  like  one  risen  from  the  dead ;  he  had  given 
him  up  for  lost,  supposing  that  the  young  man  had  been  executed. 
The  prisoners  were  each  presented  with  a  new  frock  and 
trowsers,  besides  tobacco,  handkerchiefs,  and  other  suitable  gifts. 
The  prince  received  a  lieutenant's  old  uniform  coat ;  and  when 
they  got  into  their  canoe,  it  was  amusing  to  see  how  awkwardly 
he  paddled^  in  this  outlandish  trim.  He  made  two  or  three 
attempts  to  get  the  coat  off,  but  without  success.  One  of  his 
companions  then  offered  his  assistance  ;  but  as  he  took  the 
prince  by  the  collar,  instead  of  the  sleeve,  it  was  found  imprac 
ticable  to  rid  him  of  the  garment.  The  more  he  pulled,  the 
less  it  would  come  off;  and  the  last  we  saw  of  Prince  Jumbo, 
he  was  holding  up  his  skirts  in  one  hand,  and  paddling  with  the 
other.  There  will  be  grand  rejoicings  to-night,  on  the  return  of 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  x. 


the  prisoners.  All  will  be  dancing  and  jollity ;  plays  will  be 
performed  ;  the  villages  will  re-echo  with  the  report  of  fire-arms 
and  the  clamor  of  drums ;  and  the  whole  population  will  hold  a 
feast  of  bullocks. 

20. — Anchored  at  Cape  Palmas.  The  natives  here  were 
alarmed  at  the  return  of  the  three  ships ;  and  many  of  them 
carried  away  their  moveables  into  the  woods.  News  of  the 
destruction  of  the  towns  below  had  reached  them  several  days 
since.  They  have  a  simple,  but  very  effective  system  of  ex 
presses.  When  information  of  great  interest  is  to  be  conveyed 
from  tribe  to  tribe,  one  of  their  swiftest  runners  is  despatched, 
who  makes  what  speed  he  can,  and,  when  tired,  entrusts  his 
message  to  another.  Thus  it  is  speeded  on,  without  a  moment's 
delay.  Should  the  runner  encounter  a  river  in  his  course,  he 
shouts  his  news  across ;  it  is  caught  up  on  the  other  side,  and 
immediately  sent  forward.  In  this  manner,  intelligence  finds  its 
way  along  the  coast  with  marvellous  celerity. 

23. — We  sailed  two  days  ago.  Yesterday,  there  came  off 
from  the  shore,  some  six  or  eight  miles,  a  couple  of  canoes, 
paddled  by  six  men  each,  who  exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost 
to  overtake  us.  They  had  nothing  to  sell  ;  and  their  only 
object  seemed  to  be,  to  obtain  the  particulars  of  the  fight  and 
conflagration  at  Little  Berebee,  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below. 

25. — Anchored  at  Monrovia,  and  landed  Governor  Roberts, 
who,  with  Dr.  Johnson,  had  been  a  passenger  from  Cape  Palmas. 

28. — Sailed  for  Porto  Praya,  with  the  intention  of  visiting 
Madeira,  before  returning  to  the  coast. 


CHAP,  xi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  87 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Madeira — Aspect  of  the  Island — Annual  races — "  Hail  Columbia !" — Ladies, 
Cavaliers,  and  Peasants — Dissertation  upon  Wines — The  Clerks  of  Funchal 
— Decay  of  the  Wine-Trade — Cultivation  of  Pine-Trees — A  Night  in  the 
Streets — Beautiful  Church — A  Sunday-evening  Party — Currency  of  Ma 
deira. 

January  19,  1844. — WE  made  Madeira  yesterday,  but,  the 
weather  being  thick  and  squally,  stood  ofF  and  on  until  to-day. 

20.  Our  ship  rides  gently  at  her  anchor.  The  Loo  rock 
rises  fifty  feet  perpendicular  from  the  water,  at  so  short  a  dis 
tance,  that  we  can  hear  the  drum  beat  tattoo  in  the  small,  inac 
cessible  castle,  on  its  summit.  This  rock  is  the  outpost  of  the 
city  of  Funchal.  The  city  stretches  along  the  narrow  strip  of 
level  ground,  near  the  shore,  with  vine-clad  hills  rising  steeply 
behind.  On  the  slopes  of  these  eminences  are  many  large 
houses,  surrounded  with  splendid  gardens,  and  occupied  by 
wealthy  inhabitants,  chiefly  Englishmen,  who  have  retired  upon 
their  fortunes,  or  are  still  engaged  in  business.  On  a  height  to 
the  left,  stands  a  castle  of  considerable  size,  in  good  repair. 
High  up  among  the  hills,  in  bold  relief,  is  seen  the  church  of 
Our  Lady  of  the  Mount,  with  its  white  walls  and  two  towers. 
The  hills  are  rugged,  steep,  and  furrowed  with  deep  ravines, 
along  which,  after  the  heavy  rains  of  winter,  the  mountain  tor 
rents  dash  headlong  to  the  sea. 

My  remarks  on  Madeira  will  be  thrown  together  without  the 
regularity  of  a  daily  journal  ;  for  our  visit  to  the  island  proves 
.so  delightful,  that  it  seems  better  worth  the  while  to  enjoy,  than 
to  describe  it. 

The  annual  races  are  well  attended.  During  their  contin 
uance,  throngs  of  passengers,  on  foot,  on  horseback,  and  in  pa- 
lanquins,  are  continually  proceeding  to  the  course,  a  little  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half  from  town.  The  road  thither  constantly 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xi. 


ascends,  until  you  find  yourself  several  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea,  with  an  extensive  prospect  beneath  and  around.  A  tolera 
ble  space  for  the  track  is  here  afforded  by  an  oblong  plain,  seven- 
eighths  of  a  mile  in  length.  Near  the  judges'  stand  was  a  large 
collection  of  persons  of  all  classes,  ladies,  dandies,  peasants,  and 
jockeys.  Here,  too,  were  booths  for  the  sale  of  eatables  and 
drinkables,  and  a  band  of  music  to  enliven  the  scene. 

These  musicians  saw  fit  to  honor  us  in  a  very  particular  man 
ner.  They  had  all  agreed  to  ship  on  board  our  vessel ;  and, 
with  a  view  to  please  their  new  masters,  when  three  or  four  of 
our  officers  rode  into  the  course,  they  played  "  Hail  Columbia." 
We  took  off  our  caps  in  acknowledgment,  and  thought  it  all 
very  fine.  Directly  afterwards,  two  other  officers  rode  in,  and 
were  likewise  saluted  with  "  Hail  Columbia !"  Anon,  two  or 
three  of  us  dismounted  and  strolled  about  among  the  people, 
thinking  nothing  of  the  band,  until  we  were  reminded  of  their 
proximity  by  the  old  tune  again.  In  short,  every  motion  on  our 
part,  however  innocent  and  unpretending,  caused  the  hills  of 
Madeira  to  resound  with  the  echoes  of  our  national  air.  Find 
ing  that  our  position  assumed  a  cast  of  the  ridiculous,  we  gave 
the  leader  to  understand,  that,  if  the  tune  were  played  again, 
the  band's  first  experience  of  maritime  life  should  be  a  flogging 
at  the  gangway.  The  hint  was  sufficient ;  not  only  did  we  hear 
no  more  of  "Hail  Columbia,"  but  none  of  the  musicians  ever 
came  near  the  ship. 

With  few  exceptions  the  running  was  wretched.  One  or  two 
of  the  match-races  (which  were  ten  in  number,  all  single  heats, 
of  a  mile  each)  were  well  contested.  The  first  was  run  by  two 
ponies ;  a  fat  black  one  with  a  chubby  boy  on  his  back,  and  a 
red,  which,  as  well  as  his  rider,  was  in  better  racing  condition. 
The  black  was  beaten  out  of  sight.  The  second  race  was  by 
two  other  ponies,  one  of  which  took  the  lead,  and  evidently  had 
the  heels  of  his  antagonist.  Suddenly,  however,  he  bolted,  and 
leaped  the  wall,  leaving  the  track  to  be  trotted  over  by  the 
slower  colt.  Two  grey  horses  succeeded,  and  made  pretty  run 
ning  ;  but  their  riders,  instead  of  attending  to  business,  joined 
hands,  and  rode  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  this  amiable  attitude. 
Rather  than  antagonists,  one  would  have  taken  them  for  twin- 


CHAP,  xi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  89 

brethren,  like  two  other  famous  horsemen,  Castor  and  Pollux. 
To  the  ladies  this  mode  of«racing  appeared  delightful ;  but  the 
remarks  of  our  party,  consisting  of  several  English  and  Ameri 
can  officers  and  gentlemen,  were  anything  but  complimentary. 
The  last  quarter  of  this  heat  was  well  run,  one  of  the  horses 
winning  apparently  by  a  neck.  The  judge,  however,  a  Portu 
guese,  decided  that  it  was  a  dead  heat. 

At  one  extremity  of  the  course,  the  hill  rises  abruptly  ;  and 
here  were  hundreds  of  persons  of  both  sexes,  in  an  excellent 
position  to  see  the  running,  and  to  impart  a  pretty  effect  to  the 
scene.  A  large  number  of  peasantry  were  present,  dressed  in 
their  peculiar  costume,  and  taking  great  interest  in  the  whole 
matter.  Both  men  and  women  wear  a  little  blue  cap  lined  with 
scarlet,  so  small  that  one  wonders  how  it  sticks  on  the  head. 
In  shape  it  is  like  an  inverted  funnel,  running  up  to  a  sharp 
point.  The  women  have  short,  full  dresses,  with  capes  of  a  dark 
blue,  trimmed  with  a  lighter  blue,  or  of  scarlet  with  blue  trim 
ming.  These  colors  form  a  sectional  distinction ;  the  girls  of 
the  north  side  of  the  island  wearing  the  scarlet  capes,  and  those 
of  the  south  side,  the  blue.  In  the  intervals  of  the  races,  ladies 
and  gentlemen  cantered  round  the  course,  and  some  of  them 
raced  with  their  friends.  Three  Scottish  ladies,  with  more 
youth  than  beauty,  and  dressed  in  their  plaids,  made  themselves 
conspicuous  by  their  bold  riding,  and  quite  carried  off  the  palrn 
of  horsemanship  from  their  cavaliers. 

A  sketch  of  Madeira  would  be  incomplete  indeed,  without 
some  mention  of  its  wines.  Three  years  ago,  when  it  was  more 
a  matter  of  personal  interest,  I  visited  this  island,  and  gained 
considerable  information  on  the  subject.  Madeira  then  produced 
about  thirty  thousand  pipes  annually,  one  third  of  which  was 
consumed  on  the  island,  one-third  distilled  into  brandy,  and  the 
remainder  exported.  About  one-third  of  the  exportation  went 
to  the  United  States,  and  the  balance  to  other  parts  of  the  world. 
The  best  wines  are  principally  sent  to  our  own  country — that  is 
to  say,  the  best  exported — for  very  little  of  the  first-rate  wine 
goes  out  of  the  island.  The  process  of  adulteration  is  as  tho 
roughly  understood  and  practised  here,  as  anywhere  else.  The 
wine  sent  to  the  United  States  is  a  kind  that  has  been  heated,  to 


JO  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xi. 

give  it  an  artificial  age.  The  mode  of  operation  is  simply  to 
pour  the  wine  into  large  vats,  and  swbrnit  it  for  several  days  to 
a  heat  of  about  110°.  After  this  ordeal,  the  wine  is  not  much 
improved  by  keeping. 

There  are  other  modes  of  adulteration,  into  the  mysteries  ot 
which  I  was  not  admitted.  One  fact,  communicated  to  me  by 
an  eminent  wine-merchant,  may  shake  the  faith  of  our  connois 
seurs  as  to  the  genuineness  of  their  favorite  beverage.  It  is, 
that,  from  a  single  pipe  of  "  mother  wine,"  ten  pipes  are  manu 
factured  by  the  help  of  inferior  wine.  This  "  mother  wine  "  is 
that  which  has  been  selected  for  its  excellence,  and  is  seldom 
exported  pure.  The  wines,  when  fresh  from  the  vintage,  are 
as  various  in  their  flavor  as  our  cider.  It  is  by  taste  and  smell 
that  the  various  kinds  are  selected,  after  which  the  poorer  wines 
are  distilled  into  brandy,  and  the  better  are  put  in  cases,  and 
placed  in  store  to  ripen.  The  liquor  is  from  time  to  time  racked 
off,  and  otherwise  managed  until  ready  for  exportation.  It  is 
invariably  "  treated  "  with  brandy.  French  brandy  was  formerly 
used,  which  being  now  prohibited,  that  of  the  island  is  substi 
tuted,  although  of  an  inferior  quality. 

Besides  the  "  Madeira  wine,"  so  famous  among  convivialists. 
there  are  others  of  higher  price  and  superior  estimation.  There 
is  the  "  Sercial,"  distinguished  by  a  kind  of  Poppy  taste.  There 
is  the  Malmsey,  or  "Ladies'  wine,"  and  the  "Vina  Tinta,"  or 
Madeira  Claret,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  The  latter  is  made 
of  the  black  grapes,  in  a  peculiar  manner.  After  being  pressed, 
the  skins  of  the  grapes  are  placed  in  a  vat,  where  the  juice  is 
poured  upon  them  and  suffered  to  stand  several  days,  until  it 
has  taken  the  hue  required.  The  taste  of  this  wine  is  between 
those  of  Port  and  Claret.  There  is  a  remarkable  difference  in 
the  quality  of  the  vintages  of  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the 
island ;  the  former  not  being  a  third  part  so  valuable  as  the  lat 
ter.  The  poorer  classes  drink  an  inferior  and  acid  wine. 

The  vineyards  are  generally  owned  by  rich  proprietors,  by 
whom  they  are  farmed  out  to  the  laborer,  who  pays  half  the 
produce  when  the  wine  has  been  pressed ;  the  government  first 
taking  its  tenth.  The  grape-vines  run  along  frame-work,  raised 
four  or  five  feet  from  the  ground,  so  as  to  allow  the  cultivatoi 


CHAP,  xi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  91 

room  to  weed  the  stalks  beneath.  The  finest  grapes  are  those 
which  grow  upon  the  sunny  side  of  a  wall.  At  the  season  of 
vintage,  the  grapes  are  placed  in  a  kind  of  canoe,  where  they 
are  first  crushed  by  men's  feet  (all  wines,  even  the  richest  and 
purest,  having  this  original  tincture  of  the  human  foot),  and  then 
pressed  by  a  beam. 

Perhaps  the  very  finest  wines  in  the  world  are  to  be  found 
collected  at  the  suppers  given  by  the  clerks,  in  the  large  mer 
cantile  houses  of  Madeira.  By  an  established  custom,  when  one 
of  their  corps  is  about  to  leave  the  island,  he  gives  an  entertain 
ment,  to  which  every  guest  contributes  a  bottle  or  two  of  wine. 
It  is  a  point  of  honor  to  produce  the  best ;  and  as  the  clerks  know, 
quite  as  well  as  their  principals,  where  the  best  is  Jo  be  found,  and 
as  the  honor  of  their  respective  houses  is  to  be  sustained,  it  may 
well  be  imagined  that  all  the  bon-vivants  on  earth,  were  they  to 
meet  at  one  table,  could  hardly  produce  such  a  variety  of  fine  old 
Madeira,  as  the  clerks  of  Funchal  then  sip  and  descant  upon.  In 
no  place  do  mercantile  clerks  hold  so  respectable  a  position  in  so 
ciety  as  here  ;  owing  to  the  tacit  understanding  between  their 
principals  and  themselves,  that,  at  some  future  day,  they  are  to 
be  admitted  as  partners  in  the  houses.  This  is  so  general  a 
rule,  that  the  clerk  'seems  to  hold  a  social  position  scarcely  in 
ferior  to  that  of  the  head  of  the  establishment.  They  prove 
their  claim  to  this  high  consideration,  by  the  zeal  with  which 
they  improve  their  minds  and  cultivate  their  manners,  in  order 
to  fill  creditably  the  places  to  which  they  confidently  aspire. 

At  my  second  visit  to  Madeira,  I  find  the  wine  trade  at  a  very 
low  ebb.  The  demand  from  Airlerica,  owing  to  temperance,  the 
tariff,  and  partly  to  an  increased  taste  for  Spanish,  French,  and 
German  wines,  is  extremely  small.  Not  a  cargo  has  been  ship 
ped  thither  for  three  years.  The  construction  given  to  the  ta 
riff,  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  will  infuse  new  life  into 
the  trade. 

The  hills  around  the  city  of  Funchal  are  covered  with  vine 
yards,  as  far  up  as  the  grape  will  grow  ;  then  come  the  fields  of 
vegetables  ;  and  the  plantations  of  pine  for  the  supply  of  the 
city.  The  island  took  its  name  from  the  great  quantity  of  wood 
which  overshadowed  it,  at  its  first  discovery.  This  being  long 


92  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xi. 

ago  exhausted,  considerable  attention  is  paid  to  the  cultivation 
of  the  pine-tree,  which  produces  the  most  profitable  kind  of 
wood.  In  twelve  or  thirteen  years,  it  is  fit  for  the  market,  and 
commands  a  handsome  price.  Far  up  the  mountains,  we  saw 
one  plantation,  in  which  fifty  or  sixty  acres  had  been  covered 
with  pines,  within  a  few  years ;  some  of  the  infant  trees  being 
only  an  inch  high.  Thus  in  the  course  of  a  morning's  ride,  we 
ascend  from  the  region  of  the  laughing  and  luxuriant  vine,  into 
that  of  the  stately  and  sombre  pine ;  it  is  like  being  transported 
by  enchantment  from  the  genial  clime  of  Madeira  into  the  rug 
ged  severity  of  a  New  England  forest. 

In  going  up  the  mountain,  the  traveller  encounters  many 
peasants,  both  men  and  women,  with  bundles  of  weeds  for  horses, 
and  sticks  for  fire- wood,  which  are  carried  upon  the  head.  Thus 
laden,  they  walk  several  miles,  and  perhaps  sell  their  burthens 
for  ten  or  twelve  cents  apiece.  Articles  cannot  easily  be  con 
veyed  in  any  other  manner,  down  the  steep  declivities  of  the 
hills.  In  the  city,  burthens  are  drawn  by  oxen,  on  little  drags, 
which  glide  easily  over  the  smooth,  round  pavements.  The 
driver  carries  in  his  hand  a  long  mop  without  a  handle,  or  what 
a  sailor  would  term  a  "  wet  swab."  If  any  difficulty  occur  in 
drawing  the  load,  this  moist  mop  is  thrown  before  the  drag, 
which  readily  glides  over  it. 

The  beggars  of  Funchal  are  numerous  and  importunate,  and 
many  of  them  wretched  enough,  as,  in  one  instance,  I  had  oc 
casion  to  witness.  With  a  friend,  I  had  quitted  a  ball  at  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  porter  of  our  hotel,  not  expecting 
us  at  so  late  an  hour,  had  retired ;  and,  as  all  the  family  slept 
in  the  back  part  of  the  house,  we  were  unable  to  awaken  them 
by  our  long  and  furious  knocking.  Several  Englishmen  occu 
pied  the  front  apartments,  but  scorned  to  give  themselves  any 
trouble  about  the  matter,  except  to  breathe  a  slumberous  exe 
cration  against  the  disturbers  of  their  sleep.  On  the  other 
hand,  our  anathemas  were  louder,  and  quite  as  bitter  upon  these 
inhospitable  inmates.  Finally,  after  half  an  hour's  vigorous 
but  ineffectual  assault  upon  the  portal,  we  retreated  in  despair, 
and  betook  ourselves  to  walk  the  streets.  The  night  was  beau 
tifully  clear,  but  too  cool  for  the  enervated  frame  of  an  African 


CHAP,  xi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  93 

voyager.  We  were  tired  with  dancing,  and  occasionally  sa* 
down  ;  but  the  door-steps  were  all  of  stone,  and,  though  we  but 
toned  our  coats  closely,  it  was  impossible  to  remain  long  inac 
tive. 

Near  morning,  we  approached  the  door  of  the  Cathedral,  and 
were  about  to  seat  ourselves,  when  we  perceived  a  person 
crouching  on  the  spot,  and  apparently  asleep.  The  slumber  was 
not  sound  ;  for  when  we  spoke,  a  young  girl,  a  mere  rose-bud 
of  a  woman,  about  fourteen  years  of  age,  arose  and  answered. 
She  was  very  thinly  clad  ;  and,  with  her  whole  frame  shivering, 
the  poor  thing  assumed  an  airy  and  mirthful  deportment,  to  at 
tract  us.  It  was  grievous  to  imagine  how  many  nights  like  this 
the  unhappy  girl  was  doomed  to  pass,  and  that  all  her  nights 
were  such,  unless  when  vice  and  degradation  procured  her  a 
temporary  shelter.  Ever  since  that  hour,  when  I  picture  the 
pleasant  island  of  Madeira,  with  its  sunshine,  and  its  vineyards, 
and  its  jovial  inhabitants,  the  shadow  of  this  miserable  child 
glides  through  the  RIM-MI'. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  houses  of  worship  I  have  ever  seen, 
is  the  English  church,  just  outside  of  the  city  of  Funchal.  The 
edifice  has  no  steeple  or  bells,  these  being  prohibited  by  the 
treaty  between  Portugal  and  Great  Britain,  which  permits  the 
English  protestants  to  erect  churches.  You  approach  it  through 
neat  gravel  walks,  lined  with  the  most  brilliant  flowers,  and 
these  in  such  magnificent  profusion,  that  the  building  may  be 
said  to  stand  in  the  midst  of  a  great  flower-garden.  The  aspect 
is  certainly  more  agreeable,  if  not  more  appropriate,  than  that 
of  the  tombstones  and  little  hillocks  which  usually  surround  the 
sacred  edifice  ;  it  is  one  method  of  rendering  the  way  to  Heaven 
a  path  of  flowers.  On  entering  the  church,  we  perceive  a  cir 
cular  apartment,  lighted  by  a  dome  of  stained  glass.  The  fin 
ish  of  the  interior  is  perfectly  neat,  but  simple.  The  organ  is 
fine-toned,  and  was  skilfully  played.  Pleasant  it  was  to  see 
again  a  church  full  of  well-dressed  English — those  Saxon  faces, 
nearest  of  kin  to  our  own — and  to  hear  once  more  the  familiar 
service,  after  being  so  long  shut  out  from  consecrated  walls ! 

Sunday  is  not  observed  with  much  strictness,  in  Madeira. 
On  the  evening  of  that  day,  I  called  at  a  friend's  house,  where 


94  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  XL 

thirty  or  forty  persons,  all  Portuguese,  were  collected,  without 
invitation.  Music,  dancing,  and  cards,  were  introduced  for  the 
entertainment  of  the  guests.  The  elder  portion  sat  down  to 
whist ;  and,  in  a  corner  of  the  large  dancing  room,  one  of  the 
gentlemen  established  a  faro-bank,  which  attracted  most  of  the 
company  to  look  on,  or  bet.  So  much  more  powerful  were  the 
cards  than  the  ladies,  that  it  was  found  difficult  to  enlist  gentle 
men  for  a  single  cotillion.  After  a  while,  dancing  was  aban 
doned,  and  cards  ruled  supreme.  The  married  ladies  made 
bets  as  freely  as  the  gentlemen ;  and  several  younger  ones, 
though  more  reserved,  yet  found  courage  to  put  down  their 
small  stakes.  I  observed  one  sweet  girl  of  sixteen,  standing  over 
the  table,  and  watching  the  game  with  intense  interest.  Me- 
thought  the  game  within  her  bosom  was  for  a  more  serious  stake 
than  that  upon  the  table,  and  better  worth  the  observer's  notice. 
Who  should  win  it  ? — her  guardian  angel  ?  or  the  gambling 
fiend  ?  Alas,  the  latter !  She  bashfully  drew  a  little  purse  from 
her  bosom,  and  put  her  stake  down  with  the  rest. 

The  currency  of  Madeira  is  principally  composed  of  the  old- 
fashioned  twenty  cent  pieces,,  called  cruzados,  which  pass  at  the 
rate  of  five  for  a  dollar.  Payments  of  thousands  of  dollars  are 
made  in  this  coin,  which,  not  being  profitable  to  remit,  circulates 
from  hand  to  hand. 


CHAP,  xn  ]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  95 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Passage  back  to  Liberia — Coffee  Plantations — Dinner  on  Shore — Character 
of  Col.  Hicks — Shells  and  Sentiment — Visit  to  the  Council  Chamber — the 
New  Georgia  Representative — a  Slave-Ship — Expedition  up  the  St.  Paul's 
— Sugar  Manufactory — Maumee's  beautiful  Grand-Daughter — the  Sleepy 
Disease — the  Mangrove-Tree. 

February  29. — WE  are  on  our  return  to  Liberia.  The  ship  is 
destined  to  cruise  along  the  whole  coast,  from  Cape  Mesurado  to 
the  river  Gaboon,  touching  at  all  important  and  interesting 
points.  It  will  present  the  best  opportunity  yet  enjoyed,  to 
observe  whatever  things  worthy  of  notice  the  country  can  pre 
sent.  Hourly,  as  we  approach  the  coast,  we  perceive  the  differ 
ence  in  temperature.  It  is  a  grateful  change,  that  of  winter  to 
summer.  Last  night  was  as  mild  as  a  summer  evening  at  home. 
I  remained  on  the  forecastle  till  midnight,  enjoying  the  moonlight, 
the  soft  air,  and  the  cheerful  song  of  a  cricket,  which  had  been, 
in  some  manner,  brought  on  board  at  Porto  Praya,  a  week  ago. 
He  seems  to  be  the  merriest  of  the  crew,  and  now  nightly  pipes 
to  the  forecastle  men. 

Our  ship  slides  along  almost  imperceptibly,  yet  gets  over  the 
sea  wonderfully  well.  She  is  a  noble  ship,  stiff,  fast,  and  dry. 
Her  motion  is  very  easy,  and  her  performance,  whether  in  strong 
or  light  breezes,  is  always  excellent.  Her  grating-deck  has 
been  taken  off,  as  it  made  her  a  little  top-heavy  and  uneasy,  and 
detracted  from  her  speed  ;  and  she  is  infinitely  better  for  the 
change. 

March  2. — Anchored  at  Monrovia,  in  less  than  eight  days 
from  Porto  Praya,  although  the  winds  were  light,  most  of  the 
time.  Several  of  our  Kroomen,  who  left  us,  two  months  ago, 
completely  dressed  in  sailor-rig,  came  on  board  with  only  a  hat 
and  a  handkerchief,  and  forthwith  proceeded  to  haul  upon  the 
ropes,  as  before. 

6 — I  have  been  walking  through  Judge  Benedict's  coffee- 


JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  rn. 


plantation,  from  the  condition  of  which  I  find  little  encourage 
ment  to  persons  disposed  to  engage  in  the  business.  The  trees 
are  certainly  not  so  thrifty,  and  are  apparently  less  in  number 
than  they  were  three  years  ago.  There  is  little  or  no  weeding 
done  ;  consequently,  the  plantation  is  overgrown  with  grass  and 
bushes,  and  looks  as  if  the  forest  might,  at  no  distant  day,  re 
claim  its  children.  All  the  trees  have  been  transplanted  from 
the  neighboring  woods,  and,  it  is  said,  do  not  flourish  so  well  as 
those  raised  from  seed,  in  nurseries.  General  Lewis  has  seve 
ral  thousand  coffee-plants  growing  from  the  seed,  and,  in  two  or 
three  years,  will  have  tested  the  comparative  advantages  of  this 
plan. 

I  dined  ashore  to-day.  At  the  table  were  a  Dutchman,  a 
Dane,  four  American  officers,  and  Colonel  Hicks.  All,  except 
myself,  were  good  talkers,  and  composed  a  delightful  dinner 
party.  Colonel  Hicks,  of  whom  I  have  before  spoken  in  this 
Journal,  is  one  of  the  most  shrewd,  active  and  agreeable  men  in 
the  colony.  Once  a  slave  in  Kentucky,  and  afterwards  in  New- 
Orleans,  he  is  now  a  commission-merchant  in  Monrovia,  doing  a 
business  worth  four  or  five  thousand  dollars  per  annum.  Writing 
an  elegant  hand,  he  uses  this  accomplishment  to  the  best  advan 
tage  by  inditing  letters,  on  all  occasions,  to  those  who  can  give 
him  business.  If  a  French  vessel  shows  her  flag  in  the  harbor, 
the  Colonel's  Krooman  takes  a  letter  to  the  master,  written  in 
his  native  language.  If  an  American  man-of-war,  he  writes  in 
English,  offering  his  services,  and  naming  some  person  as  his 
intimate  friend,  who  will  probably  be  known  on  board.  Then 
he  is  so  hospitable,  and  his  house  always  so  neat,  and  his  table 
so  good — his  lady,  moreover,  is  such  a  friendly,  pleasant-tem 
pered  person,  and  so  good-looking,  into  the  bargain — that  it  is 
really  a  fortunate  day  for  the  stranger  in  Liberia,  when  he 
makes  the  acquaintance  of  Colonel  and  Mrs.  Hicks.  Every 
day,  after  the  business  of  the  morning  is  concluded,  the  Colonel 
dresses  for  dinner,  which  appears  upon  the  table  at  three  o'clock. 
He  presides  with  genuine  elegance  and  taste ;  his  stories  are 
good,  and  his  quotations  amusing.  To  be  sure,  he  occasionally 
commits  little  mistakes,  such,  for  instance,  as  speaking  of  America 
as  his  Alma  Mater ;  but,  on  the  whole,  even  without  any  allow- 


CHAP,  xri.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  97 

ance  for  a  defective  education,  he  appears  wonderfully  well. 
One  circumstance  is  too  indicative  of  strong  scn-r,  a^  well  as 
good  taste,  not  to  be  mentioned  ; — he  is  not  ashamed  of  his 
color,  but  speaks  of  it  without  constraint,  and  without  effort. 
Most  colored  men  avoid  alluding  to  their  hue,  thus  betraying  a 
morbid  sensibility  upon  the  point,  as  if  it  were  a  disgraceful  and 
afflicting  dispensation.  Altogether  the  Colonel  and  his  lady 
make  many  friends,  and  are  as  apparently  happy,  and  as  truly 
respectable  as  any  couple  here  or  elsewhere. 

Coming  to  the  beach,  we  found  no  boat;  and  nearly  half  an 
hour  passed  before  one  arrived  to  take  us  on  board.  In  the  in 
terim,  I  strolled  along  the  shore,  picking  up  the  small  shells, 
which  the  waves  had  thrown  in  abundance  upon  the  sand.  In 
the  eye  of  a  conchologist,  they  would  have  been  of  little  value, 
as  all  of  them  were  common,  and  none  possessed  more  than  a 
single  valve.  But  the  purple  blush  of  the  interior  pleased  me ; 
and  what  is  more,  I  was  gathering  these  trifles  for  a  lady  whom 
I  have  never  seen,  yet  whom  I  trust  that  I  may  venture  to  count 
among  my  friends.  I  know  that  she  will  be  pleased  with  the 
poor  offering  and  its  giver ;  for  each  of  these  shells  is  linked 
with  a  thought  that  flew  over  the  sea — from  the  sunset  shore  of 
Africa  to  a  fireside  in  New  England — and  returned  thence  to  the 
wanderer,  bringing  grateful  fancies,  reminiscences,  and  hopes. 
It  was  a  smiling  half-hour. 

9. — Ashore,  and  in  the  council-chamber.  It  is  a  spacious 
apartment  on  the  second  floor  of  the  stone  building  recent h 
erected  for  the  purposes  of  a  Legislative  Hall  and  Court-House. 
The  Governor  presided,  sitting  in  a  high  backed  rocking-chair ; 
which,  by  the  by,  the  natives  call  a  "  Missionary  Horse." 
The  colonial  Secretary  acted  as  chief-clerk,  and  Doctor  Prout, 
in  gold-bowed  spectacles,  as  his  assistant.  An  ungainly  lad, 
with  big  feet  and  striped  hose,  seemed  to  engross  in  his  own  per 
son  the  offices  of  door-keeper,  sergeant-at-arms,  and  page. 
The  council  proper  consisted  of  ten  members,  who  sat  at  sepa 
rate  desks,  arranged  semi-circularly  in  front  of  the  Governor. 
The  spectators  occupied  rude  benches  in  the  rear  of  the  mem 
bers. 

The  question  before  the  council  related  to  the  building  of  a 
8 


98  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xn. 


market-house  in  Monrovia,  at  the  expense  of  the  commonwealth, 
as  proposed  in  one  of  the  sections  of  a  bill  to  form  a  city  govern 
ment.  This  being  a  matter  of  some  interest,  each  member  ex 
pressed  his  views,  but  with  such  brevity  that  the  whole  debate 
occupied  scarcely  forty  minutes,  although  several  individuals 
spoke  twice.  This  conciseness  was  less  a  virtue  of  choice  than 
necessity,  being  attributable  chiefly  to  the  fact,  that  the  presiding 
officer  set  his  face  against  all  vagaries  of  eloquence,  and  kept 
the  speakers  strictly  to  the  point.  If  one  wandered  in  the  least, 
he  was  instantly  called  to  order,  and  compelled  to  take  his  seat, 
upon  the  slightest  deviation  from  the  rules  of  the  house.  One  of 
the  members  was  a  wilder  specimen  of  humanity  than  even  our 
legislative  bodies  at  home  have  ever  presented  to  an  admiring 
world.  He  was  a  re-captured  African,,  representing  New 
Georgia,  an  uncouth  figure  of  a  man,  who -spoke  very  broken 
English,  with  great  earnestness,  and  much  to  the  amusement  of 
his  brother  counsellors  and  the  audience  generally.  I  regret  my 
inability  to  preserve  either  the  matter  or  the  manner  of  so  ori 
ginal  an  orator. 

Here,  as  in  the  various  other  situations  in  which  I  have  seen 
him  placed,  Governor  Roberts  acquitted  himself  as  a  dignified, 
manly,  and  sensible  person.  Deriving  his  appointment  from 
the  Society  at  home,  he  can  act  with  more  independence,  in  an 
official  capacity,  than  if  indebted  to  the  voices  of  the  members 
for  his  position. 

15. — At  sea  again,  on  our  way  to  Gallenas. 

17. — Fell  in  with  the  English  brig-of-war  Ferret.  Our  cap 
tain  went  on  board,  and  was  told  that  she  had  been  engaged  with 
a  large  slaver,  four  days  ago.  Previous  to  the  action,  the  slave- 
ship  went  to  Gallenas,  where  the  Ferret's  pinnace  was  at  an 
chor.  She  ran  alongside  of  the  boat,  with  three  guns  out  on  a 
side,  and  her  waist  full  of  musketeers — a  superiority  of  force  in 
view  of  which  the  pinnace  did  not  venture  to  attack  her ;  and 
the  ship  took  in  nine  hundred  or  a  thousand  slaves,  and  went  off 
unmolested.  At  sea,  she  encountered  the  Ferret,  and  was  fired 
into  repeatedly  by  that  vessel,  during  the  night,  but  succeeded 
in  making  her  escape.  The  slaver  was  under  Portuguese 
colors,  and  is  said  to  have  been  formerly  the  American  ship 


CHAP,  in.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


Crawford,   now  owned   by   Spaniards,  and   bearing  a  Spanish 
name. 

18. — Again  came  to  an  anchor  at  Monrovia. 

19. — Just  returned  from  an  excursion  up  the  St.  Paul's  river. 
Three  officers,  in  company  with  Dr.  Lugenbeel,  left  Monrovia 
seasonably  in  the  forenoon,  in  one  of  our  boats,  rowed — and 
well  rowed  too— by  five  Kroomen.  Near  the  village,  we  passed 
from  the  Mesurado  river  through  Stockton's  creek,  seven  or 
eight  miles,  to  the  St.  Paul's.  Our  first  landing  was  at  the 
public  farm,  where  the  manufacture  of  sugar  was  going  on. 
Twelve  Kroomen  (whose  power,  in  this  country,  is  applied  to  as 
great  a  variety  of  purposes  as  those  of  steam  and  water  in  our 
own)  were  turning  the  mill  by  two  long  levers,  walking  round  and 
round  in  one  interminable  circle,  like  the  horse  in  an  old-fashioned 
bark-mill.  Three  or  four  boys  fed  the  mill  with  cane,  which  about 
a  score  of  colonists  were  employed  in  cutting  and  bringing  in  by 
small  armsfull,  from  a  field  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  The 
overseer,  Mr.  Moore,  and  a  few  other  persons,  were  occupied  in 
boiling  the  cane-juice.  Mr.  Moore  informed  me  that  sixteen 
Kroomen  were  employed  on  the  premises,  at  three  dollars  per 
month,  and  twenty-five  colonists  at  sixty-two  and  a  half  cents  a 
day,  besides  their  food.  This  year,  they  make  about  thirty  bar 
rels  of  sugar  (which  will  cost  at  least  twenty-five  cents  per 
pound),  and  two  pipes  of  molasses.  The  cane,  now  in  process  of 
manufacture,  is  very  small  and  unprofitable,  all  of  the  larger 
kind  having  been  already  ground.  The  sugar-house  is  a  wretch 
ed  building,  with  a  thatched  roof,  and  the  sides  roughly  boarded 
like  a  cow-shed.  There  were  four  boilers  in  full  bubble,  and 
ten  thousand  bees  in  full  buzz  about  the  establishment ;  the  in 
sects  bidding  fair  to  hoard  up  more  profit  than  the  sugar-manu 
facturers. 

Mr.  Moore  had  accompanied  the  Niger  expedition  in  the  ca 
pacity  of  farmer,  and  resided  nine  or  ten  months  on  the  model 
farm,  without  undergoing  the  prevalent  sickness.  While  almost 
every  white  man  perished,  the  colored  colonists  all  surviv 
ed.  A  large  amount  of  property  was  left  in  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Moore,  and  he  returned  with  the  expedition  to  England.  As 


100  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xn. 

superintendent  of  the  public  farm,  he  now  receives  from  the  Co 
lonization  Society  a  salary  of  three  hundred  dollars. 

Leaving  the  farm,  we  soon  entered  the  St.  Paul's,  a  noble 
river,  which  comes  rolling  onward  from  the  yet  unexplored  inte 
rior  of  the  country.  Following  its  course  a  mile  or  more  towards 
the  sea,  we  arrived  at  Maumee's  Town,  a  village  of  thirty  or 
forty  huts,  where  a  considerable  slave-trade  Was  carried  onr  until 
broken  up  by  the  colonists  under  Governor  Ashman.  Old  Mau- 
mee  still  resides  here,  and  cherishes  a  bitter  hatred  against  the 
Liberians,  and  all  Americans  and  Englishmen,  as  having  caused 
the  ruin  of  her  profitable  commerce.  The  old  hag  was  not  now 
at  home,  having  obeyed  the  custom  of  the  country  by  retiring  to 
a  more  secluded  spot,  for  the  purpose  of  nursing  a  sick  grand 
daughter.  The  persons  who  remained  were  quite  uninteresting. 
The  only  noticeable  group  was  composed  of  two  women,  one 
lying  flat  on  her  face,  with  her  head  in  the  other's  lap.  Her 
hair  being  combed  out  as  straight  as  the  tenacity  of  its  curls 
would  allow,  her  friend  was  arranging  it  in  that  fine  braid  with 
which  it  is  customary  to  cover  the  head. 

Having  procured  a  guide,  we  crossed  the  river,  and,  at  the 
mouth  of  Logan's  creek,  exchanged  our  boat  for  a  large  canoe, 
in  which  we  followed  the  windings  of  the  deep  and  narrow  inlet 
for  nearly  two  miles.  This  brought  us  to  a  village  of  six  huts. 
Without  ceremony,  we  entered  the  dwelling  of  the  old  Queen 
(who  was  busied  about  her  household  affairs),  and  looked  around 
for  her  grand-daughter,  to  see  whom  was  the  principal  object  of 
our  excursion.  On  my  former  visit  to  Maumee's  town,  four  or 
five  months  ago,  this  girl  excited  a  great  deal  of  admiration  by  her 
beauty  and  charming  simplicity.  She  was  then  thirteen  or  four 
teen  years  of  age,  a  bright  mulatto,  with  large  and  soft  black- 
eyes,  and  the  most  brilliantly  white  teeth  in  the  world.  Her 
figure,  though  small,  is  perfectly  symmetrical.  She  is  the  dar 
ling  of  the  old  Queen,  whose  affections  exhaust  themselves  upon 
her  with  all  the  passionate  fire  of  her  temperament — and  the 
more  unreservedly,  because  the  girl's  own  mother  is  dead. 

We  entered  the  hut,  as  I  have  said,  without  ceremony,  and 
looked  about  us  for  the  beautiful  grand-daughter.  But,  on  be 
holding  the  object  of  our  search,  a  kind  of  remorse  or  dread 


CHAP,  xii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  101 

came  over  us,  such  as  often  affects  those  who  intrude  upon  the 
awfulncss  of  slumber.  The  girl  lay  asleep  in  the  adjoining 
apartment  on  a  mat  that  was  spread  over  the  hard  ground,  and 
with  no  pillow  beneath  her  cheek.  One  arm  was  by  her  side — 
the  other  above  her  head — and  she  slept  so  quietly,  and  drew 
such  imperceptible  breath,  that  I  scarcely  thought  her  alive. 
With  some  little  difficulty  she  was  roused,  and  awoke  with  a 
frightened  cry — a  strange  and  broken  murmur — as  if  she  were 
looking  dimly  out  of  her  sleep,  and  knew  not  whether  our  figures 
were  real,  or  only  the  phantasies  of  a  dream.  Her  eyes  were 
wild  and  glassy,  and  she  seemed  to  be  in  pain.  While  awake, 
there  was  a  nervous  twitching  about  her  mouth  and  in  her  fin 
gers  ;  but,  being  again  extended  on  the  mat,  and  left  to  herself, 
these  symptoms  of  disquietude  passed  away  ;  and  she  almost 
immediately  sank  again  into  the  deep  and  heavy  sleep,  in  which 
we  found  her.  As  her  eyes  gradually  closed  their  lids,  the  sun- 
beams,  struggling  through  the  small  crevices  between  the  reeds 
of  the  hut,  glimmered  down  about  her  head.  Perhaps  it  was  only 
the  nervous  motion  of  her  fingers  ;  but  it  seemed  as  if  she  were 
trying  to  catch  the  golden  rays  of  the  sun  and  make  playthings 
of  them — or  else  to  draw  them  into  her  soul,  and  illuminate  the 
slumber  that  looked  so  misty  and  dark  to  us. 

This  poor,  doomed  girl  had  been  suffering — no,  not  suffering, 
for,  except  when  forcibly  aroused,  there  appears  to  be  no  uneasi 
ness — but  she  had  been  lingering  two  months  in  a  disease  pe 
culiar  to  Africa.  It  is  called  the  "  sleepy  disease,"  and  is 
considered  incurable.  The  persons  attacked  by  it  are  those  who 
take  little  exercise,  and  live  principally  on  vegetables,  particular 
ly  cassady  and  rice.  Some  ascribe  it  altogether  to  the  cassady, 
which  is  supposed  to  be  strongly  narcotic.  Not  improbably,  the 
climate  has  much  influence,  the  disease  being  most  prevalent  in 
low  and  marshy  situations.  Irresistible  drowsiness  continually 
weighs  down  the  patient,  who  can  be  kept  awake  only  for  the  few 
moments  needful  to  take  a  little  food.  When  this  lethargy  has 
lasted  three  or  four  months,  death  comes — with  a  tread  that  the 
patient  cannot  hear,  and  makes  the  slumber  but  a  little  more  sound. 
I  found  the  aspect  of  Maumee's  beautiful  grand-daughter 
inconceivably  affecting.  It  was  strange  to  behold  her  so  quietly 


102  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xn. 

involved  in  sleep — from  which  it  might  be  supposed  she  would 
awake  so  full  of  youthful  life — and  yet  to  know  that  this  was  no 
refreshing  slumber,  but  a  spell  in  which  she  was  fading  away 
from  the  eyes  that  loved  her.  Whatever  might  chance,  be  it 
grief  or  joy,  the  effect  would  be  the  same.  Whoever  should 
shake  her  by  the  arm — whether  the  accents  of  a  friend  fell 
feebly  on  her  ear,  or  those  of  strangers,  like  ourselves,  the  only 
response  would  be  that  troubled  cry,  as  of  a  spirit  that  hovered 
on  the  confines  of  both  worlds,  and  could  have  sympathy  with 
neither.  And  yet,  withal,  it  seemed  so  easy  to  cry  to  her — 
"  Awake  !  Enjoy  your  life  !  Cast  off  this  noon-tide  slumber!" 
But  only  the  peal  of  the  last  trumpet  will  summon  her  out  of 
that  mysterious  sleep. 

On  our  return,  we  passed  under  the  branches  of  the  mangrove 
tree,  and  pulled  some  of  the  long  fruit  or  seed.  This  singular 
seed  is  about  fifteen  or  sixteen  inches  long,  and  in  its  greatest 
diameter  not  more  than  an  inch.  It  is  round,  heavy,  and  pointed 
at  both  ends.  When  ripe,  it  detaches  itself  from  a  sort  of  acorn, 
to  which  the  smaller  end  has  been  firmly  joined,  and  falls  with 
sufficient  force  to  implant  itself  deeply  in  the  mud.  After  a 
few  days,  it  begins  to  shoot,  and  soon  becomes  a  tall  mangrove. 
This  tree  has  many  strings  to  its  bow  ;  for,  while  the  seed  is 
growing,  as  here  described,  the  branches  send  down  slender  and 
cord-like  shoots,  perhaps  thirty  feet  long,  and  less  than  an  inch 
in  thickness.  These  strike  into  the  mud,  and  aid  in  giving 
sustenance  to  the  tree.  Thus  the  Mangrove  presents  the  appear 
ance  of  a  large  tree,  supported  by  hundreds  of  lesser  trunks, 
standing  so  thickly  together  as  to  be  impassable  for  even  small 
animals.  Therein  it  differs  from  the  tree  described  by  Milton, 
to  which  it  otherwise  seems  to  bear  an  analogy  : — 

"  In  the  ground 

The  bended  twigs  take  root,  and  daughters  grow 
About  the  mother-tree,  a  pillar'd  shade, 
High  overarched,  and  echoing  walks  between !" 

Returning  to  the  ship,  we  found  it  lighted  up,  and  the  Theatre 
about  to  open.  The  scenery  has  been  much  improved,  since  the 
last  performance,  and  the  actors  are  more  perfect  in  their  parts. 


CHAP.  Tin.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  103 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Theatre — Tribute  to  Governor  Buchanan — Arrival  at  Settra  Kroo — Jack 
Purser — The  Mission-School — Cleanliness  of  the  Natives — Uses  of  the 
Palm-Tree — Native  Money — Mrs.  Sawyer — Influence  of  her  Character  on 
the  Natives— Characteristics  of  English  Merchant-Captains — Trade  of 
England  with  the  African  Coast. 

March  21. — THE  scenery  of  the  theatre  having  been  damaged 
by  the  rain,  the  other  night,  it  is  spread  out  to  dry,  and  will  be 
re-painted.  Much  interest  is  felt  in  the  Drama,  and  the  exer 
tions  of  the  performers  are  rewarded  with  full  houses  nightly. 
Some  of  the  actors  have  evidently  trodden  other  boards  than 
these.  Among  two  hundred  men,  many  of  whom  have  led  wild 
and  dissipated  lives  on  shore,  it  is  easy  to  suppose  that  enough 
are  familiar  with  the  theatre  in  front  of  the  curtain,  and  a  few 
behind  it.  Thus  a  tolerable  company  has  been  collected,  need 
ing  only  a  few  female  recruits  to  render  it  perfect.  The  dresses 
and  scenery  were  procured  by  general  subscription,  and  are 
showy  as  well  as  appropriate  ;  and  many  a  manager  might  deem 
himself  fortunate  to  engage  the  whole  corps,  with  wardrobe  and 
decorations  included,  for  a  summer  campaign.  On  board  ship, 
our  buskined  heroes  are  of  more  importance  than  Booth,  Forrest, 
or  Macready  ashore,  as  affording  amusement  to  a  set  of  fellows 
who  would  have  precious  little  of  it,  without  this  resource. 

22. — At  3  P.  M.  up  anchor  for  the  leeward,  and  stand  off 
with  a  good  breeze. 

23. — We  have  passed  Bassa  Cove,  merely  sending  in  some 
letters  by  a  Kroo-canoe,  which  boarded  us.  A  considerable  set 
tlement  of  colonists  is  established  here.  Many  of  their  houses 
are  visible  along  the  shore,  while  two  smaller  villages,  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  are  concealed  by  the  woods.  The  bar  at 
this  place  has  a  bad  reputation  ;  several  boats  having  been 
swamped  in  passing  it.  In  1836,  ten  persons,  including  a  mid- 


104  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xin. 

shipman  and  purser's  clerk,  were  drowned  here,  by  the  capsizing 
of  a  boat  belonging  to  the  frigate  Potomac. 

At  Bassa  Cove,  in  1842,  died  Thomas  Buchanan,  Governor  of 
Liberia ;  a  man  who  has  identified  his  name  with  the  existence 
of  the  colony,  by  his  successful  exertions  to  promote  its  strength 
and  respectability.  No  other  person  had  done  so  much  to  im 
press  the  natives  with  awe  and  respect  for  the  colonists,  and  to 
give  Liberia  an  independent  position  in  the  eyes  of  foreigners. 
A  year  before  his  death,  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  be  a  shipmate 
of  this  great  and  excellent  man  ;  for  great  and  excellent  I  do 
not  hesitate  to  call  him,  although  the  remoteness  of  his  sphere  of 
action  has  left  his  name  comparatively  obscure.  Like  all  who 
came  in  contact  with  him,  I  was  deeply  impressed  with  his  pure, 
high,  determined,  and  chivalric  character.  In  a  grove,  near  the 
village,  he  selected  a  spot  for  his  burial ;  and  there  rest  the  re 
mains  of  a  finished  gentleman,  an  accomplished  scholar,  a  fear 
less  soldier,  a  wise  legislator,  an  ardent  philanthropist,  and  a 
sincere  Christian.  So  long  as  Liberia  shall  have  a  history, 
Governor  Buchanan  will  be  remembered  in  it.  Honor  to  his 
ashes ! 

24. — Sunday.  No  service  to-day,  in  consequence  of  a  heavy 
rain,  which  commenced  at  nine  in  the  morning,  and  continued 
till  one  in  the  afternoon.  In  the  evening,  four  or  five  miles  from 
land,  we  were  boarded  by  the  mate  of  an  English  brig,  at  an 
chor  off  Grand  Botton.  He  seemed  a  well-disposed,  off-hand 
man,  telling  us,  among  other  things,  that  he  had  run  away  from 
the  U.  S.  schooner  Enterprise,  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  four  years 
ago.  This  was  rather  a  hazardous  communication  to  make,  on 
the  deck  of  a  national  vessel  ;  and  it  so  happened  that  one  of 
our  lieutenants  was  in  the  Enterprise,  at  the  time  referred  to, 
and  remembered  the  circumstance  and  the  man.  However,  as 
he  had  put  confidence  in  us,  we  did  not  molest  him. 

25. — Anchored  at  Settra  Kroo. 

26. — Ashore,  and  dined  upon  roasted  oysters,  in  a  native  hut. 
A  large,  shrewd  Kroornan,  Jack  Purser  by  name,  seems  to  be 
the  most  important  private  individual  here.  He  is  the  great 
tradesman  of  the  place,  and  very  accommodating  in  his  mode  of 
transacting  business.  We  saw  a  specimen  of  his  dealings  with 


CHAP,  xiii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  In.. 

the  natives.  Being  told  that  we  wanted  wood,  he  x-nt  intelli 
gence  through  the  town;  and,  directly,  many  won  ion  and  girls 
flocked  to  his  house,  each  with  a  hundle  of  wood  upon  her  head, 
which  she  deposited  near  the  door.  After  twenty  or  thirty  loads 
had  been  brought,  Jack  Purser  came  forth  with  a  bundle  of  to 
bacco  under  his  arm,  and  threw  the  price  of  each  load  upon  the 
wood,  one,  two,  or  three  leaves  of  tobacco,  according  to  its  size. 
There  was  no  haggling,  as  is  invariably  the  case  when  a  whit 
man  is  the  customer,  but  all  assented  to  the  decision  of  the  trade- 
man.  Jack  Purser  is  a  man  of  fortune,  if  the  number  of  his 
wives,  twenty-nine,  be  a  criterion. 

I  saw  a  native  doctor  making  his  "  greegree,"  or  charm,  for 
rain.  There  were  two  large  mortars,  with  leaves,  bark,  and 
roots,  in  each,  and  a  long  vine  extending  from  one  to  the  other. 
Into  these  mortars  he  poured  water,  until  it  ran  over. 

27. — Dined  on  shore,  at  Mrs.  Sawyer's.  The  repast  consist 
ed  of  bits  of  mutton  in  palm-butter,  mutton  roasted,  rice,  palm- 
cabbage,  chicken,  and  papaw,  with  coffee,  but  no  wine.  There 
are  thirty  children  in  the  Mission-school,  mostly  boys,  who  slio\\ 
considerable  aptitude  for  learning.  It  is  an  obstacle  in  the  way 
of  educating  girls,  that  many  of  them  are  betrothed  before  en 
tering  school,  and,  just  when  their  progress  begins  to  be  satis 
factory,  their  husbands  claim  them  and  take  them  away.  Mr. 
Wilson  adopted  the  plan  of  taking  the  pair  of  betrothed  ones ; 
and,  after  pursuing  their  studies  in  unison  (doubtless  including 
the  conjugation  of  the  verb,  to  love),  they  left  the  school  to 
gether. 

One  of  the  scholars,  a  little  fellow  called  Robert  Soutter,  took 
a  strange  fancy  to  me,  and  followed  everywhere  at  my  heels, 
expressing  a  strong  wish  to  accompany  me  to  Big  America. 
When  we  returned  to  the  ship,  he  actually  jumped  into  the 
boat,  without  saying  a  word,  and  came  off,  ready  for  the  voyage. 
To  be  sure,  there  were  few  preparations  requisite  to  rig  him 
out.  A  handkerchief  about  his  loins  comprised  all  the  earthly 
goods  of  Robert  Soutter. 

The  houses  at  Seltra  Kroo  are  often  two  stories  high,  with 
piazzas  round  the  whole.  The  entrance  to  the  upper  story  is 
by  a  laddor  from  without.  Like  other  native  houses,  they  are 


106  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xin. 

built  with  bamboo,  and  thatched.  There  being  a  war  with  other 
portions  of  the  Kroo-people,  the  Beachmen  have  been  obliged  to 
plant  cassada  in  the  town  itself,  instead  of  the  neighboring 
fields.  Hence  high  fences  are  necessary  to  keep  out  the  cattle  ; 
and  these,  being  irregular,  make  it  a  kind  of  labyrinth  for  a 
stranger.  The  place  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast  for  water 
ing  ships,  in  the  dry  season.  A  large  stream  of  sweet  and  clear 
water  runs  through  a  grove  of  palm-trees,  to  the  sea.  Hither 
come  all  the  women  of  the  village,  in  the  old  scriptural  fashion, 
with  the  water-jar,  holding  three  or  four  gallons,  on  the  head. 
The  consumption  of  water  by  the  natives  is  very  great.  Whether 
it  be  part  of  their  religious  ritual,  I  know  not — although  clean 
liness  is  in  itself  a  religion — but  the  whole  population  wash 
themselves  from  head  to  foot,  at  least  twice  a  day,  in  fresh  water, 
when  to  be  procured.  These  naked  people,  however,  are  as 
much  averse  as  ourselves  to  being  wet  by  the  rain ;  and  every 
man  of  consequence  has  his  umbrella,  to  protect  him  both  from 
sun  and  shower. 

Palm-trees  are  more  abundant  here,  than  in  any  place  which 
I  have  visited  on  the  coast.  No  tree,  as  has  been  said  a  thou 
sand  times,  is  so  useful  as  the  palm.  It  gives  a  good  shade,  and 
is  pleasing  as  an  ornamental  tree.  The  palm-nut  is  very  pala 
table  and  nutritious  for  food,  and  likewise  affords  oil,  the  kernel 
as  well  as  the  pulpy  substance  being  available  for  that  purpose. 
Palm-wine  is  the  sap  of  the  tree  ;  and  its  top  furnishes  a  most  de 
licious  dish,  called  palm-cabbage.  The  trunk  supplies  fire-wood, 
and  timber  for  building  fences.  From  the  fibres  of  the  wood  is 
manufactured  a  strong  cordage,  and  a  kind  of  native  cloth  ;  and 
the  leaves,  besides  being  used  for  thatching  houses,  are  converted 
into  hats.  If  nature  had  given  the  inhabitants  of  Africa  nothing 
else,  this  one  gift  of  the  palm-tree  would  have  included  food, 
drink,  clothing,  and  habitation,  and  the  gratuitous  boon  of 
beauty,  into  the  bargain. 

I  have  procured  some  of  the  country-money.  It  is  more 
curious  than  convenient.  The  "  Manilly,"  worth  a  dollar  and 
a  half,  would  be  a  fearful  currency  to  make  large  payments 
in,  being  composed  of  old  brass-kettles,  melted  up,  and  cast 
in  a  sand-mould.  The  weight  is  from  two  to  four  pounds ; 


CHAP,  xiii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  107 

so  that  the  circulation  of  this  country  may  be  said  to  rest 
upon  a  pretty  solid  metallic  basis.  The  "  Buyapart,"  valued 
at  twenty-five  cents,  is  a  piece  of  cloth  four  inches  square,  co 
vered  thickly  over  with  the  small  shells  called  cowries,  s.  \\.  d 
on.  The  other  currency  consists  principally  in  such  goods  as 
have  an  established  value.  Brass  kettles,  cotton  handkerchiefs, 
tobacco,  guns,  and  kegs  of  powder,  are  legal  tender.* 

29. — Mrs.  Sawyer  was  on  board  yesterday.  It  is  not  without 
regret  that  we  part  with  this  interesting,  energetic,  and  truly 
Christian  woman.  She  is  the  only  white  person  here,  and 
lives  alone  among  a  tribe  of  savages,  as  safe,  and  per 
haps  more  so,  than  in  a  civilized  city.  The  occasional  visits 
of  vessels  of  war  prevent  any  evil-minded  person  from  mo 
lesting  her  ;  but  she  has  little  need  of  guardianship  of  this 
nature  ;  for  her  own  kind  acts,  and  purity  of  character,  will 
always  ensure  her  the  respect  of  the  natives.  Mrs.  S.  told 
us,  that,  before  her  husband  died,  the  war-king  of  the  Settra 
Kroos  had  quarrelled  with  him,  and  was  his  enemy  at  the  time 
of  his  death.  Not  long  afterwards,  this  war-king  camu  to  Mrs. 
Sawyer,  and  assured  her  of  his  protection  and  assistance  to  the 
utmost  of  his  power,  which  is  very  great,  as  he  commands  all 
the  fighting-men  of  the  tribe.  I  know  not  that  the  power  of  fe 
minine  excellence  has  ever  been  more  strikingly  acknowledged, 
than  by  this  act  of  an  incensed  and  barbarous  warrior.  Some 
what  of  her  influence,  as  well  as  that  of  the  missionaries  gene 
rally,  is  probably  owing  to  her  color.  Many  of  the  natives  look 
with  contempt  on  the  colonists,  and  do  not  hesitate  to  tell  them 
that  they  are  merely  liberated  slaves.  On  the  other  hand,  tho 
colonists  will  never  recognize  the  natives  otherwise  than  as 
heathen.  Amalgamation  is  scarcely  more  difficult  bt  tu.  en  th-- 
white  and  colored  races  in  America,  than  it  is  in  Africa,  between 
the  "  black-white"  colonist  and  the  unadulterated  native. 

On  our  arrival  here,  we  found  an  English  brig,  whose  com 
mander  has  been  once  on  board  of  us.  He  has  a  large  assort- 
ment  of  trade-goods  of  all  sorts,  and  his  vessel  is  fitted  up  with 
a  view  to  comfort  in  living,  as  well  as  the  convenience  of  trade. 

*  Specimens  of  the  native  money  have  been  presented  by  the  author  to  the 
National  Institute  at  Washington. 


108  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xin. 

A  native  colored  woman  has  her  residence  on  board,  as  his 
washerwoman  and  stewardess,  and  likewise,  if  the  captain  be 
not  belied,  in  a  more  intimate  relation.  To-day,  also,  came  in 
another  English  brig,  the  master  of  which  has  a  female  com 
panion,  filling  the  same  variety  of  offices  as  the  former.  Many 
of  the  English  trading  vessels  retain  such  persons  on  board, 
during  the  whole  time  they  are  on  the  coast.  The  masters,  so 
far  as  we  have  had  opportunity  to  observe,  have  generally  been 
hard-drinking  unscrupulous  men.  Few  of  them  hesitate  to 
avow  their  readiness  to  furnish  slavers  with  goods,  equally  with 
any  other  purchasers,  if  they  can  make  their  profit,  and  get  their 
pay.  There  is  great  jealousy  among  the  traders,  and  much  un 
derhand  work  to  get  the  business  from  each  other.  They  have 
native  trade-men  in  their  interest,  all  along  the  coast,  watching 
their  rivals,  and  preparing  to  take  any  advantage  that  may  offer. 
Profound  secresy  is  observed  as  to  their  movements  and  inten 
tions.  The  crews  of  some  vessels  are  seldom  allowed  to  visit 
the  shore,  lest  they  should  give  information  about  the  affairs  o-f 
the  master. 

Not  a  few  of  the  reports  about  American  slavers  spring  from 
this  jealousy  of  trade.  The  masters  of  English  merchant-ves 
sels,  jealous  of  the  Americans,  and  desirous  to  engross  the  trade 
to  themselves,  report  them  to  the  British  cruisers  as  suspicious 
vessels.  The  cruiser,  if  he  give  too  ready  credence  to  the  cal 
umny,  will  probably  overhaul  the  American,  and  perhaps  break 
up  his  voyage  ;  he  being,  nevertheless,  as  honest  as  any  trader 
on  the  coast.  But  the  ends  of  the  Englishman  are  answered  ; 
he  sells  his  cargo,  and  cares  little  about  the  diplomatic  corres 
pondence  that  may  ensue,  and  the  possible  embroilment  of  the 
two  nations. 

English  vessels  far  outnumber  all  others  on  the  coast.  Dr. 
Madden,  the  commissioner  to  examine  the  condition  of  the  British 
colonial  settlements,  reports  the  total  imports  into  England  from 
the  West  Coast  of  Africa,  in  1836,  at  £800,000.  In  1840,  the 
exports  of  British  products  to  Africa  amounted  to  £492,128,  in 
the  transportation  of  which,  72,000  tons  of  shipping  were  em 
ployed.  The  government  and  people  of  England  are  giving 
great  attention  to  this  coast,  as  an  important  theatre  of  trade. 


CHAP,  xiii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  100 

A  committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  in  1842,  made  extcnsiv. 
and  minute  inquiries  into  the  subject,  and  published  a  great  mass 
of  interesting  information.  They  recommended,  that  the  Crown 
should  resume  the  jurisdiction  of  several  forts,  on  the  Gold  Coast, 
which  have  been  given  up  to  a  committee  of  merchants ;  and 
that  there  be  new  settlements  established,  and  block-houses 
erected  at  various  points. 

The  English  have  lost  the  gum-trade,  by  the  French  subsi 
dizing  the  King  of  the  Trazars,  who  holds  the  key  to  the  gum- 
country  ;  and  the  mahogany-trade  has  been  destroyed  by  that 
of  Honduras,  the  wood  from  which  is  of  a  better  quality.  The 
experiment  on  the  part  of  the  English,  of  carrying  African  rice 
to  compete  with  that  of  America,  has  likewise  failed. 

The  subject  of  American  Trade  with  the  west  of  Africa  is  so 
important,  that  it  may  be  well  to  devote  a  separate  chapter  to 
some  account  of  its  nature,  and  the  methods  of  carrying  it  on. 


110  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  xiv 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

American  Trade — Mode  of  Advertising,  and  of  making  Sales — Standard  of 
Commercial  Integrity — Dealings  with  Slave-Traders — Trade  with  the  Na 
tives — King's  "  Dash" — Native  Commission-Merchants — The  Gold  Trade 
— The  Ivory  Trade — The  "  Round  Trade  " — Respectability  of  American 
Merchant-Captains — Trade  with  the  American  Squadron. 

MORE  vessels  come  to  the  coast  of  Africa  from  Salem  than  from 
any  other  port  in  the  United  States  ;  although  New  York,  Bos- 
ton,  and  Providence,  all  have  their  regular  traders.  Some  of 
these  trade  chiefly  to  Gambia  or  Sierra  Leone  ;  others  to  Galli- 
nas,  Monrovia  and  down  the  coast,  touching  at  different  points. 
Others,  again,  go  to  the  Gaboon  river,  and  the  islands  of  Princes 
and  St.  Thomas  ;  and  some  stretch  still  farther  south,  to  Ben- 
guela,  and  beyond.  Most  American  vessels  bring  provisions, 
such  as  flour,  ship-bread,  beef,  pork,  and  hams,  which  are  bought 
chiefly  by  the  European  or  American  colonists.  The  natives, 
however,  are  yearly  acquiring  a  taste  for  them.  The  market 
being  often  overstocked,  this  part  of  the  trade  is  precarious. 
Other  exports  are  furniture,  boots  and  shoes,  wooden  clocks, 
and  all  articles  of  American  manufacture,  or  such  as  are  used 
among  civilized  men.  All  the  vessels  bring  New  England  rum, 
leaf-tobacco,  powder,  guns,  large  brass  pans,  and  cotton  cloth. 
On  these  points,  a  great  deal  of  correct  information  has  been 
given  by  Dr.  Hall,  and  may  be  found  in  some  of  the  numbers 
of  the  African  Repository. 

The  mode  of  trading  has  some  peculiarities.  On  arriving  at 
a  civilized  settlement,  the  captain  sends  his  "list"  ashore  to 
some  resident  merchant.  This  list  contains  a  schedule  of  his 
cargo,  with  the  prices  of  each  article  annexed,  and  the  kind  of 
pay  required.  Some  take  only  cash.  Most  vessels,  however, 
take  the  productions  of  the  country  at  a  stipulated  price  ;  for 
instance,  camwood  at,  say,  sixty  dollars  per  ton,  palm-oil,  at 
twenty-five  to  thirty-three  cents  per  gallon,  ivory,  ground  or  pea- 


CHAP,  xiv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  Ill 

nuts,  gold  dust,  and  gum.  At  the  Cape  do  \Yr.l  islands,  salt, 
goat-skins,  and  hides,  arc  the  chief  commodities  received  in  ex 
change  ;  at  Gambia,  hides ;  at  Monrovia,  Cape  Palmas,  and 
other  settlements  in  Liberia,  camwood  and  palm-oil  are  the  great 
staples.  There  is  likewise  some  ivory,  but  not  in  large  quantity. 
On  the  Gold  Coast,  the  trade  is  in  gold-dust  and  palm-oil  ;  at 
ill-*  (laboon,  in  ivory  and  gold-dust, — and  at  Bcnguela,  in  gum. 

The  "list"  being  put  up  conspicuously  in  the  merchant's 
store  (such  being  the  method  of  advertising  in  Liberia,  where 
the  newspapers  are  not  made  use  of,  for  this  purpose),  the  traders, 
purchasers,  and  idlers,  come  to  see  what  is  for  sale.  The  store 
becomes,  for  the  time  being,  the  public  Exchange  of  the  settle 
ment,  where  people  assemble,  not  merely  with  commercial  views, 
but  to  hear  the  intelligence  from  abroad,  and  to  diffuse  it  thence 
throughout  the  country.  In  due  time,  the  captain  comes  on  shore 
with  his  samples,  and  individual  purchasers  bargain  for  what 
they  want.  The  captain  receives  payment,  whether  in  cash  or 
commodities,  and  weighs  the  camwood,  or  measures  the  palm- 
oil,  at  the  merchant's  store.  If  credit  be  given,  the  merchant 
is  responsible,  and  receives  a  perquisite  of  five  per  cent  on  all 
sales.  The  captain  takes  up  his  residence  on  shore,  and  sends 
for  goods  from  his  vessel,  as  they  are  wanted  ;  while  the  mate 
and  crew  remain  on  board,  to  despatch  and  receive  the  cargo. 
Every  vessel  has  in  its  employ  several  Kroomen,  by  whom  all 
the  boat-service  is  performed. 

When  the  demand  for  goods  appears  to  have  ceased,  the  cap 
tain  either  takes  his  unsold  cargo  away,  or  leaves  a  portion  to  be 
disposed  of  in  his  absence,  and  sets  sail  for  another  settlement. 
Here  the  same  process  is  gone  through  with,  and  so  on,  until  tin- 
cargo  is  sold.  The  captain  then  turns  back,  touching  at  thr 
ee  veral  places  where  he  has  left  goods,  to  receive  the  proceeds, 
and  thence  home  to  America,  for  a  new  cargo.  Regular  traders 
have  numerous  orders  to  fill  up,  from  persons  resident  on  the 
coast ;  taking  care,  of  course,  to  allow  themselves  a  good  profit 
for  their  trouble  and  freight.  The  trade  with  the  colonists  is 
easy  and  sufficiently  plain  ;  the  only  difficulty  being  the  some 
what  essential  one  of  obtaining  payment.  Colonial  traders,  in 
abundance,  arc  eager  to  buy  on  credit ;  but,  possessing  little  or 


112  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xiv. 

no  capital,  they  often  fail  to  satisfy  their  obligations  at  the  period 
assigned — if,  indeed,  they  ever  pay  at  all.  Commercial  integ 
rity  is  not  here  of  so  high  an  order  as  in  older  countries,  where 
the  great  body  of  merchants  have  established  a  standard  of  rec 
titude,  which  individuals  must  not  venture  to  transgress. 

Another  large  branch  of  business  is  at  places  where  the  slave- 
trade  is  carried  on ;  as  at  Gallinas  and  Wydah.  Here,  pro 
visions,  guns,  powder,  cotton  cloths,  and  other  goods,  suitable  for 
the  purchase  or  subsistence  of  slaves,  are  sold  at  good  prices  for 
cash,  or  bills  of  exchange.  The  bills  of  Pedro  Blanco,  the 
notorious  slave-dealer  at  Gallinas,  on  an  eminent  Spanish  house 
in  New  York,  and  another  in  London,  are  taken  as  readily  as 
cash.  A  large  number  of  the  vessels  engaged  in  the  African 
trade,  whether  English  or  American,  do  a  considerable  part  of 
their  business  either  with  the  slavers,  or  with  natives  settled  at 
the  slave-marts,  and  who,  from  their  connection  with  the  trade, 
have  plenty  of  money.  Some  of  the  large  English  houses  give 
orders  to  their  captains  and  supercargoes  not  to  traffic  with  men 
reputed  to  be  slave-dealers ;  but,  if  a  purchaser  come  with 
money  in  his  hand,  and  offer  liberal  prices,  it  requires  a  tenderer 
conscience  and  sterner  integrity  than  are  usually  met  with,  on 
the  coast  of  Africa,  to  resist  the  temptation.  The  merchant  at 
home,  possibly,  is  supposed  to  know  nothing  of  all  this.  It  is 
quite  an  interesting  moral  question,  however,  how  far  either  Old 
or  New  England  can  be  pronounced  free  from  the  guilt  and 
odium  of  the  slave-trade,  while,  with  so  little  indirectness,  they 
both  share  its  profits  and  contribute  essential  aid  to  its  prosecu 
tion. 

The  method  of  trade  with  the  natives  is  more  tedious  than  that 
with  the  colonists,  and  differs  entirely  in  its  character.  On 
anchoring  at  a  trade-place,  it  is  necessary,  first  of  all,  to  pay  the 
King  his  "  dash,"  or  present,  varying  in  value  from  twenty  dol 
lars  to  seven  or  eight  hundred.  Such  sums  as  the  latter  are 
paid  only  by  ships  of  eight  hundred  or  a  thousand  tons,  and  in 
the  great  rivers,  as  Bonny  or  Calebar.  The  "  dash  "  may  be 
considered  as  equivalent  to  the  duties  levied  on  foreign  imports, 
in  civilized  countries;  and  doubtless,  as  in  those  cases,  the 


CHAP,  xiv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  113 

trader  remunerates   himself   by   an   enhanced   price   upon  his 
merchandize. 

The  King  being  "dashed  "  to  his  satisfaction,  trade  commen- 
Thc  canoes  bring  off  the  articles  which  the  natives  have 
for  sale ;  and  the  goods  of  the  vessel  are  exhibited  in  return. 
At  first,  it  is  a  slow  process  ;  either  party  offering  little  for  the 
commodity  of  the  other,  and  asking  much  for  his  own.  But,  in 
a  few  days,  prices  becoming  established  on  both  sides,  business 
^rov.s  brisk,  and  flags  only  when  one  party  has  little  more  to 
exchange.  Native  agents  are  employed  by  the  stranger ;  some 
bring  Kroomen  attached  to  the  vessel,  and  others  trade-men, 
inhabiting  the  native  towns.  These  men,  in  addition  to  their 
small  regular  pay,  continually  receive  presents,  which  are  neces 
sary  in  order  to  excite  their  activity  and  zeal. 

There  is  still  another  mode  of  trading,  resorted  to  by  many 
masters  of  vessels.  They  entrust  quantities  of  goods — varying 
in  value  from  a  trifling  sum  up  to  a  thousand  dollars,  or  even 
more  —to  native  trade-men.  With  these,  or  part  of  them,  the 
trade-man  goes  into  the  interior,  makes  trade  with  the  Bushmen, 
and  brings  the  proceeds  to  his  employer.  These  native  agents 
are  sometimes  trusted  with  large  amounts,  for  several  months 
together,  and  not  unfrequently  give  their  principal  great  trouble 
in  collecting  his  dues.  Their  families,  to  be  sure,  are  held 
responsible,  and  the  King  is  bound  to  enforce  payment.  Never 
theless,  if  so  disposed,  they  can  procrastinate,  and  finally  cheat 
their  creditor  out  of  his  debt ;  especially  as  the  vessel  cannot  re 
main  long  upon  the  coast,  awaiting  the  King's  tardy  methods  of 
compulsion. 

On  the  Gold  Coast,  each  vessel  employs  a  native  who  is  called 
its  "gold-taker,"  and  is  skilful  in  detecting  spurious  metal. 
The  gold-dust  is  brought  for  sale,  wrapped  up  in  numerous 
coverings,  to  avoid  waste.  It  is  tested  by  acids ;  or,  more  com 
monly,  by  rubbing  the  gold  on  the  "  black-stone,"  when  the 
color  of  the  mark,  which  it  leaves  upon  the  stone,  decides  the 
character  of  the  metal.  The  gold,  after  its  weight  has  been 
ascertained,  is  put  by  the  captain  into  little  barrels,  holding  per 
haps  half  a  pint,  and  with  the  top  screwing  tightly  on.  This 
"glittering  dust"  (to  use  the  phrase  which  moralists  are  fond 
9 


114  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xiv. 

of  applying  t©  worldly  pelf),  commands  from  sixteen  to  eighteen 
dollars  per  ounce,  in  England  and  the  United  States.  It  is 
gathered  from  the  sands  which  the  rivers  of  Africa  wash  down 
from  the  golden  mountains ;  and,  when  offered  for  sale,  small 
lumps  of  gold  and  rudely  manufactured  rings  are  sometimes 
found  among  the  dust — ornaments  that  have  perhaps  been  worn 
by  sable  monarchs,  or  their  sultanas,  in  the  interior  of  the 
country. 

In  the  ivory  trade,  small  teeth  (comprising  all  that  weigh  less 
than  twenty  pounds)  are  considered  to  be  worth  but  half  the 
price,  per  pound,  that  is  paid  for  large  teeth.  From  fifty  cents 
to  a  dollar  is  the  ordinary  value  of  a  pound  of  ivory.  Some 
large  teeth  sell  for  a  hundred  dollars,  or  even  a  hundred  and 
fifty.  The  sale  of  such  a  gigantic  tusk,  as  may  well  be  sup 
posed,  is  considered  an  affair  of  almost  national  importance,  and 
the  bargain  can  only  be  adjusted  through  the  medium  of  a  "  big 
palaver."  The  trade  in  ivory  is  now  on  the  decline;  the  de 
mand  in  England  and  France  not  being  so  great  as  formerly, 
and  America  never  having  presented  a  good  market  for  the 
article. 

Palm-oil  is  brought  from  the  interior,  on  the  heads  of  the  na 
tives,  in  calabashes,  containing  two  or  three  gallons  each.  In 
speaking  of  the  interior,  however,  a  comparatively  short  dis 
tance  from  the  coast  is  to  be  understood.  Gold,  where  great 
value  is  concentrated  into  small  bulk,  and  some  ivory,  may 
occasionally  come  from  remote  regions ;  but  the  vast  inland 
tracts  of  the  African  continent  have  little  to  do,  either  directly  or 
indirectly,  with  the  commerce  of  the  civilized  world. 

In  dealing  with  the  natives,  there  was  formerly  a  system 
much  in  vogue,  but  now  going  out  of  use,  called  the  "  round 
trade."  The  method  was,  to  offer  one  of  each  article ;  for  in 
stance,  one  gun,  one  cutlass,  one  flint,  one  brass  kettle,  one 
needle,  and  so  on,  from  the  commodity  of  greatest  value  down 
to  the  least.  In  all  traffic  there  is  a  desire  on  the  part  of  the 
^native  >to  obtain  as  great  a  variety  as  his  means  will  compass. 
If  the  native  commodity  on  sale  be  valuable,  the  captain  offers 
two  or  more  of  his  guns,  cutlasses,  flints,  brass  kettles,  and 
needles  ;  if  it  be  small,  and  of  trifling  value,  he  perhaps  exhibits 


CHAP,  xiv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  115 


only  a  flint  and  a  needle  as  an  equivalent.  The  native  of  course 
tries  to  get  the  most  valuable,  and  the  purchaser  to  pay  the 
least.  If  the  former  demand  a  piece  of  cloth,  and  if  it  be  re 
fused  by  the  captain,  the  native  then  asks  what  he  will  "  room  " 
it  with.  The  captain,  it  may  be,  proposes  to  substitute  a  needle  ; 
and,  after  much  talk,  the  troublesome  bargain  is  thus  brought 
to  a  point.  English  vessels  usually  have  supercargoes ;  the 
Americans  are  seldom  so  provided.  But  the  American  captains, 
on  the  other  hand,  are  respectable,  intelligent,  and  trustworthy 
men,  almost  without  exception.  The  exigencies  of  the  trade 
require  such  men ;  and  any  defect,  either  of  capacity  or  integ 
rity,  would  soon  be  brought  to  light  by  the  onerous  duties  and 
responsibilities  imposed  upon  them.  Great  latitude  must  be 
allowed  them,  or  the  voyage  cannot  be  expected  to  turn  out 
profitably.  They  perform  the  double  duty  of  master  and  super 
cargo,  and  perhaps  with  the  more  success,  as  there  can  be  no 
disunion  or  difference  of  judgment.  These  captains  are  likewise 
often  part  owners  of  vessel  and  cargo. 

Since  the  African  coast  has  been  made  the  cruising  ground 
of  an  American  squadron,  the  merchantmen  have  brought  out 
stores,  with  the  expectation  of  disposing  of  them  to  the  ships  of 
war.  Some  of  these  speculations  have  turned  out  very  profita 
ble  ;  but  now,  when  the  Government  understands  and  has  made 
provisions  for  the  wants  of  the  station,  this  market  is  not  to  be 
relied  upon.  To  the  officers,  indeed,  there  is  a  chance,  though 
by  no  means  a  certainty,  of  selling  mess-stores.  The  prices 
charged  by  merchantmen  correspond  with  the  scarcity  of  the 
article,  and  are  sometimes  enormous.  I  have  known  nine 
dollars  a  barrel  asked  for  Irish,  or  rather  Yankee  potatoes,  and 
have  paid  my  share  for  a  small  quantity,  at  that  rate.  To  those 
who  see  this  vegetable  daily  on  their  tables,  it  may  seem  strange 
that  men  should  value  a  potatoe  five  times  as  highly  as  an 
orange.  After  eating  yams  and  cassada,  however,  for  months 
together,  one  learns  how  to  appreciate  a  mealy  potatoe,  the 
absence  of  which  cannot  be  compensated  by  the  most  delicious 
of  tropical  fruits.  Adam's  fare  in  Paradise  might  have  been 
much  improved,  had  Eve  known  how  to  boil  potatoes;  nor,  per 
haps,  would  the  fatal  apple  have  been  so  tempting. 


116  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xv. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Jack  Purser's  wife — Fever  on  Board — Arrival  at  Cape  Palmas — Strange 
Figure  and  Equipage  of  a  Missionary — King  George  of  Grand  Bassam — 
Intercourse  with  the  Natives — Tahon — Grand  Drewin — St.  Andrew's — 
Picaninny  Lahoo — Natives  attacked  by  the  French — Visit  of  King  Peter 
— Sketches  of  Scenery  and  People  at  Cape  Labon. 

March  30. — GOT  under  way,  at  daylight,  and  stood  down  the 
coast. 

I  recollect  nothing  else,  at  Settra  Kroo,  that  requires  descrip 
tion,  unless  it  be  the  person  and  garb  of  a  native  lady  of  fashion. 
Sitting  with  my  friend  Jack  Purser,  yesterday,  a  young  woman 
came  up,  with  a  pipe  in  her  mouth.  A  cloth  around  her  loins, 
dyed  with  gay  colors,  composed  her  whole  drapery,  leaving  her 
figure  as  fully  exposed  as  the  most  classic  sculptor  could  have 
wished.  It  is  to  be  observed,  however,  that  the  sable  hue  is 
in  itself  a  kind  of  veil,  and  takes  away  from  that  sense  of  nudity 
which  would  so  oppress  the  eye,  were  a  woman  of  our  own  race 
to  present  herself  so  scantily  attired.  The  native  lady  in  ques 
tion  was  tall,  finely  shaped,  and  would  have  been  not  a  little 
attractive,  but  for  the  white  clay  with  which  she  had  seen  fit  to 
smear  her  face  and  bosom.  Around  her  ankles  were  many 
rows  of  blue  beads,  which  also  encircled  her  leg  below  the 
knee,  thus  supplying  the  place  of  garters,  although  stockings 
were  dispensed  with.  Her  smile  was  pleasant,  and  her  disposi 
tion  seemed  agreeable ;  and,  certainly,  if  the  rest  of  Jack 
Purser's  wives  (for  this  was  one  of  the  nine-and-twenty)  be  so 
well-fitted  to  make  him  happy,  the  sum  total  of  his  conjugal 
felicity  must  be  enormous  ! 

31.— Sunday.  An  oppressively  hot  day.  There  are  three 
new  cases  of  fever,  making  fourteen  in  all,  besides  sixteen  or 
seventeen  of  other  complaints.  There  is  some  apprehension  that 
we  are  to  have  general  sickness  on  board. 


CHAP,  xv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER  117 

April  1. — Off  Cape  Palmas.  A  canoe  being  sent  ashore,  re 
turned  with  a  letter  from  the  Rev.  Mr.  Hazlehurst,  stating  that 
two  missionaries  wish  for  a  passage  to  the  Gaboon,  and  mak 
ing  so  strong  an  appeal  that  the  captain's  sympathies  could  not 
resist  it.  *  So  we  run  in  and  anchor. 

2. — Went  ashore  in  the  gig,  and  amused  myself  by  reading 
the  newspapers  at  the  Governor's,  while  the  captain  rode  out  to 
the  mission  establishment,  at  Mount  Vaughan.  During  my  stay, 
one  of  the  new  missionaries,  a  native  of  Kentucky,  came  in  from 
Mount  Vaughan,  and  rode  up  to  the  Government  House,  in 
country  style.  He  was  in  a  little  wagon,  drawn  by  eight  natives, 
and  sat  bolt  upright,  with  an  umbrella  over  his  head.  The 
maligners  of  the  priesthood,  in  all  ages  and  countries,  have  ac 
cused  them  of  wishing  to  ride  on  the  necks  of  the  people ;  but  I 
never  before  saw  so  nearly  literal  an  exemplification  of  the 
fact.  In  its  metaphorical  sense,  indeed,  I  should  be  very  far 
from  casting  such  an  imputation  upon  the  zealous  and  single- 
minded  missionary  before  me.  He  is  a  man  of  eminent  figure, 
at  least  six  feet  and  three  inches  high,  with  a  tremendous  nose, 
vast  in  its  longitude  and  depth,  but  wonderfully  thin  across  the 
edge.  It  was  curious  to  meet,  in  Africa,  a  person  so  strongly 
imbued  with  the  peculiarities  of  his  section  of  our  native  land  ; 
for  his  manner  had  the  real  Western  swing,  and  his  dialect  was 
more  marked  than  is  usual  among  educated  men.  With  a 
native  audience,  however,  this  is  a  matter  of  no  moment. 

We  were  told  that  the  Roman  Catholics  are  about  to  leave 
Cape  Palmas,  and  establish  branches  of  their  mission  at  the 
different  French  stations  on  the  coast,  under  the  patronage  of 
Louis  Philippe.  The  Presbyterians  have  all  gone  to  the  Gaboon 
river.  The  Episcopal  Mission  pines  at  Cape  Palmas,  and  will 
probably  be  removed.  The  discord  between  its  members  and 
the  Colonial  Government  continues  with  unabated  bitterness. 
Mr.  Hazlehurst  regrets  that  the  missionaries  were  identified  with 
the  colonists,  in  our  great  palaver  with  the  four-and-twenty 
kings  and  headmen,  at  Cape  Palmas.  He  believes,  that,  in  case 
of  any  outbreak  of  the  natives,  the  missionaries  on  the  out 
stations  would  fall  the  first  victims.  His  sentiments,  it  must  be 
admitted,  are  such  as  it  behoves  a  minister  of  religion  to  enter- 


118  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xv. 

tain,  in  so  far  as  he  would  repudiate  military  force  as  an  agent 
for  sustaining  the  cause  of  missions. 

We  sailed  at  noon  for  the  leeward  without  the  missionaries, 
who  declined  taking  passage,  as  it  is  doubtful  whether  the 
ship  will  proceed  beyond  Cape  Coast  Castle.  We  have  now 
fifteen  cases  of  fever,  most  of  them  mild  in  character.  The 
prospect  of  sickness  will  cut  short  our  leeward  cruise. 

4. — Off  Tahoo.  The  natives  have  come  on  board,  with  fowlsT 
ivory,  and  monkey. skins,  to  "  make  trade."  Tobacco  is  the 
article  chiefly  sought  for  in  exchange.  A  large  canoe  came  off, 
with  a  small  English  flag  displayed,  and  a  native  in  regimentals 
standing  erect ;  a  most  unusual  and  inconvenient  posture  to  be 
maintained  in  a  canoe.  Mounting  the  ship's  side,  he  proved  to  be 
no  less  a  man  than  King  George  of  Grand  Bassam.  His  majesty 
wore  a  military  frock  trimmed  with  yellow,  two  worsted  epaulettes 
on  his  shoulders,  and  an  English  hussar-cap  on  his  head,  with  the 
motto  FULGOR  ET  HONGS.  A  cloth  around  his  loins  completed 
his  heterogeneous  equipment.  In  the  canoe  was  a  small  bullock, 
tied  by  the  feet,  together  with  several  ducks,  chickens,  kids,  and 
plantains.  The  bullock  and  one  duck  were  presented  to  the 
captain  by  way  of  "dash;"  always  the  most  expensive  mode 
of  procuring  provisions,  for,  unless  you  dash  the  donor  to  at  least 
an  equal  extent,  he  will  certainly  importune  you  for  more. 
King  George  remarked  that  the  other  articles  in  the  canoe  be 
longed  to  the  boys,  and  were  for  sale.  They  refused  to  sell 
them,  however,  until  the  King,  after  eating  and  drinking  his  fill 
in  the  cabin,  went  out,  and  engaged  in  the  traffic  at  once.  The 
liquor  brought  out  his  real  character  ;  and  this  royal  person 
age  scolded  and  haggled  like  a  private  trader,  and  a  sharp  one 
too. 

Having  sold  his  stock,  and  received  much  more  than  its 
value,  his  majesty  thought  it  not  beneath  his  station  to  beg,  and 
thus  obtain  divers  odd  things  for  his  wardrobe  and  larder. 
When  he  could  get  no  more,  he  finally  took  his  leave,  carrying 
off  the  remains  of  the  food  which  had  been  set  before  him, 
without  so  much  as  an  apology. 

We  have  been  running  along  that  portion  of  the  coast,  where, 
three  months  ago,  we  burned  the  native  towns.  No  attempt  has 


CHAP,  xv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  119 

yet  been  made  to  rebuild  them,  for  fear  of  a  second  hostile  visit 
from  the  ships  ;  but  the  natives  have  indirectly  applied  to  tin- 
Commodore  for  permission  to  do  so,  and  it  will  probably  bo 
granted,  on  their  pledging  themselves  to  good  behavior. 

5. — At  anchor  off  Grand  Berebee.  All  day,  the  ship  has 
been  thronged  with  natives.  They  are  civil  at  first,  but  almost 
universally  display  a  bad  trait  of  character,  by  altering  their 
manners  for  the  worse,  in  proportion  to  the  kindness  shown 
them.  As  they  acquire  confidence,  they  become  importunate, 
and  almost  impudent.  Every  canoe  brings  something  to  sell. 
It  is  amusing  to  see  these  people  paddling  alongside  with  two  or 
three  chickens  tied  round  their  necks,  and  hanging  down  their 
backs,  with  an  occasional  flutter  that  shows  them  to  be  yet  alive. 
Some  of  the  kings  hold  umbrellas  over  their  heads ;  rather,  one 
would  suppose,  as  a  mark  of  dignity,  than  from  a  tender  regard 
to  their  complexions.  These  umbrellas  were  afterwards  con 
verted  into  bags,  to  hold  the  bread  whicli  they  received. 

The  weather  has  been  cooler  for  two  days,  and  the  fever- 
patients  are  fast  improving. 

6. — This  morning,  our  visitors  of  yesterday,  and  many  more, 
came  alongside,  but  only  persons  of  distinction  were  admitted  on 
board.  Nevertheless,  they  suffice  to  crowd  the  deck.  A  war- 
canoe,  with  a  king  in  it,  paddled  round  the  ship  twice,  all  the 
men  working  for  dear  life,  by  way,  I  suppose,  of  contrasting 
their  naval  force  with  our  own.  All  our  guests,  of  whatever 
rank,  come  to  trade  or  to  beg ;  and  it  is  curious  to  see  how 
essentially  their  estimation  of  money  differs  from  our  own.  Coin 
is  almost  unknown  in  the  traffic  of  the  coast,  and  it  is  only  those 
who  have  been  at  Sierra  Leone,  or  some  of  the  colonial  settle 
ments,  who  are  aware  of  its  value.  One  "  cut  money,"  or 
quarter  of  a  dollar,  is  the  smallest  coin  of  which  most  of  the 
natives  have  any  idea.  This  is  invariably  the  price  of  a  fowl, 
when  money  is  offered  ;  but  a  head  of  tobacco  or  a  couple  of 
fish-hooks  would  be  preferred.  Empty  bottles  find  a  ready 
market.  Yesterday,  I  "  dashed  "  three  or  four  great  charac 
ters  with  a  bottle  each  ;  all  choosing  ale  or  porter  bottles  in  pre 
ference  to  an  octagonal-sided  one,  used  by  "  J.  Wingrove  and 
Co."  of  London,  in  putting  up  their  "Celebrated  Raspberry 


120  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xv. 

Vinegar."  The  chiefs  must  have  consulted  about  it  afterwards ; 
for,  this  morning,  no  less  than  three  kings  and  a  governor,  beg 
ged,  as  a  great  favor,  that  I  would  give  them  that  particular 
bottle,  and  were  sadly  disappointed,  on  learning  that  it  had  been 
paid  away  for  a  monkey-skin.  No  other  bottle  would  console 
them. 

After  the  traffic  is  over,  the  begging  commences  ;  and  they 
prove  themselves  artful  as  well  as  persevering  mendicants. 
Sometimes  they  make  an  appeal  to  your  social  affections ; 
"  Massa,  I  be  your  friend  !"  The  rascal  has  never  seen  you 
before,  and  would  cut  your  throat  for  a  pound  of  tobacco. 
Another  seeks  to  excite  your  compassion  :  "  My  heart  cry  for  a 
bottle  of  rum  !"  and  no  honest  toper,  who  has  felt  what  that  cry 
is,  can  refuse  his  sympathy,  even  if  he  withhold  the  liquor. 
A  third  applicant  addresses  himself  to  your  noble  thirst  for  fame. 
"  Suppose  you  dash  me,  I  take  your  name  ashore,  and  make 
him  live  there  !"  And  certainly  a  deathless  name,  at  the  price 
of  an  empty  bottle  or  a  head  of  tobacco,  is  a  bargain  that  even 
a  Yankee  would  not  scorn. 

7. — We  passed  Tahoo  in  the  night,  and  are  now  running 
along  a  more  beautiful  country.  The  land  is  high  and  woody, 
unlike  the  flat  and  marshy  tracts  that  skirt  the  shores  to  wind 
ward.  These  are  the  Highlands  of  Drewin.  The  ship  has 
been  full  of  Grand  Drewin  people,  who  come  to  look  about 
them,  to  beg,  and  to  dispose  of  fowls,  ducks,  cocoa-nuts,  and 
small  canoes.  They  are  the  most  noisy  set  of  fellows  on  the 
coast. 

8.  We  left  Grand  Drewin,  and  anchored  at  St.  Andrew's, 
six  miles  distant.  The  inhabitants,  being  at  war  with  those 
of  Grand  Drewin,  do  not  come  off  to  us,  apprehending  that  their 
enemies  are  concealed  behind  the  ship.  These  tribes  have  been 
at  war  more  than  a  year,  and  have  made  two  expeditions, 
resulting  in  the  death  of  two  men  on  one  side  and  three  on  the 
other.  The  army  of  Grand  Drewin,  having  slain  three,  boasts 
much  of  its  superior  valor.  It  must  be  owned,  that  the  absurdity 
of  war,  as  the  ultimate  appeal  of  nations,  becomes  rather 
strikingly  manifest,  by  being  witnessed  on  a  scale  so  ridiculously 
minute. 


CHAP,  xv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  121 


9. — A  message  having  been  sent  in  to  inform  the  King  of  our 
character,  three  or  four  canoes  came  off  to  us.  The  inhabitants 
have  little  to  sell,  compared  with  those  of  Grand  Drewin. 
Indian  corn,  which  does  not  flourish  so  well  to  windward,  has 
been  offered  freely  at  both  places,  in  the  ear. 

I  went  ashore,  in  company  with  four  other  officers.  The 
bar  is  difficult,  and,  in  rough  weather,  must  be  dangerous. 
A  broad  bay  opens  on  your  sight,  as  soon  as  the  narrow  and 
rocky  mouth  of  the  river  is  passed.  Two  large  streams  branch 
off,  and  lose  themselves  among  the  high  trees  upon  their  banks. 
A  number  of  cocoa-nut  trees,  on  the  shore,  made  a  thick  shade 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  soldiers,  who  loitered  about,  or  sat,  or  lay 
at  length  upon  the  ground,  watching  against  the  approach  of  the 
enemy.  Some  held  muskets  in  their  hands  ;  others  had  rested 
their  weapons  against  the  trunks  of  the  trees.  We  were  first 
conducted  to  the  residence  of  King  Qucah,  who  received  us 
cdurteously,  regaled  us  with  palm-wine,  and  inflicted  a  duck 
upon  us  by  way  of  "  dash."  The  wine,  in  a  capacious  gourd, 
was  brought  out,  and  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  large  open 
space,  where  we  sat.  The  King,  his  headman,  and  his  son,  all 
drank  first,  in  order  to  prove  that  the  liquor  was  not  poisonous  ; 
a  ceremony  which  makes  one  strongly  sensible  of  being  among 
people,  who  have  no  very  conscientious  regard  for  human  life. 
The  mug  was  then  refilled,  and  passed  to  us. 

On  the  walls  of  the  house  there  were  fresco-paintings,  evidently 
by  a  native  artist,  rudely  representing  persons  and  birds.  The 
most  prominent  figures  were  the  King,  seated  in  a  chair,  and 
seven  wives  standing  in  a  row  before  him,  most  of  them  with 
pipes  in  their  mouths.  Black,  red,  and  white,  were  apparently 
the  only  colors  that  the  painter's  palette  supplied.  The  ground 
work  was  the  natural  color  of  the  clay,  which  had  been  plastered 
upon  the  wall  of  wicker-work. 

There  seem  to  be  two  crowned  heads  at  this  place,  reminding 
one  of  the  two  classic  Kings  of  Brentford  ;  for,  after  leaving 
King  Queah,  we  were  led  to  the  house  of  another  sovereign, 
styled  King  George.  The  frequent  occurrence  of  this  latter 
name,  indicates  the  familiarity  between  the  natives  and  the 
English.  His  Majesty  received  us  in  state  ;  that  is  to  say,  chairs 


122  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xv. 

were  placed  for  the  visitors,  and  the  King,  with  a  black  hat  OE 
his  head,  looked  dignified.  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  make  a 
favorable  impression  on  his  principal  wife,  by  means  of  an  empty 
bottle  and  a  head  of  tobacco,  which  she  was  pleased  to  accept 
at  my  hands  in  tne  most  gracious  manner.  Though  probably 
fifty  years  of  age,  she  had  beautified  herself,  and  concealed  the 
touch  of  time  by  streaks  of  soot  carefully  laid  on  over  her  face 
and  body. 

The  houses  of  each  family  are  enclosed  within  bamboo  walls, 
sometimes  to  the  number  of  eight  or  ten  huts  in  one  of  these  in 
sulated  hamlets.  They  are  generally  wretched  hovels,  and  of  the 
simplest  construction,  merely  a  thatched  roof,  like  a  permanent 
umbrella,  with  no  lower  walls,  and  no  ends.  Altogether,  the 
dwellings  and  their  inhabitants  looked  miserable  enough.  The 
tribe  has  the  reputation  of  being  treacherous  and  cruel,  and  the 
aspect  of  the  people  is  in  accordance  with  their  character. 

I  purchased  a  man's  cloth,  of  native  manufacture.  It  is  said 
to  be  made  of  the  bark  of  a  tree,  pounded  together  so  as  to  be 
strong  and  durable.  I  also  procured  a  hank  of  fine  white  fibre 
of  the  pine-apple  leaf.  Of  this  material  the  natives  make  strong 
and  beautiful  fishing-lines,  and  other  cords.  Before  being  twist 
ed  it  has  the  appearance  of  hemp. 

11. — We  anchored,  last  evening,  at  Picaninny  Lahoo.  Only 
one  canoe  has  come  off  to  us.  The  natives  are  shy  of  all  strange 
vessels,  in  consequence  of  a  French  man-of-war  having  fired 
upon  one  of  the  neighboring  towns,  a  few  days  since.  It  seems 
that  a  French  merchant-barque  was  wrecked  here,  by  running 
ashore.  The  master  saved  his  gold  and  personal  property,  and 
he  and  the  crew  were  kindly  treated  ;  but  the  vessel  and  cargo 
were  plundered,  in  accordance  with  the  custom  of  the  African 
coast,  as  well  as  of  countries  that  boast  more  of  their  civilisation. 
Nevertheless,  the  captain  of  the  French  man-of-war  demanded 
restitution,  and  kept  up  a  fire  upon  the  town  for  several  succes 
sive  days.  An  English  merchant- vessel,  lying  there  at  the  time, 
protested  against  the  cannonade,  and  threatened  to  report  the 
French  captain  to  Lord  Stanley  ! — on  the  plea  that  his  measures 
of  hostility  prevented  the  natives  from  engaging  in  trade. 

In  fact,  these  masters  of  English  merchant- vessels  would  pro- 


CHAP,  xv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  123 

bably  consider  the  interruption  of  trade  as  the  greatest  of  all 
offences  against  human  rights.  We  boarded  a  brig  of  that 
nation  to-day,  and  found  her  full  of  natives,  with  whom  a  very 
brisk  business  was  going  forward.  Some  brought  palm-oil,  and 
others  gold,  which  they  exchanged  principally  for  guns,  cloth, 
and  powder.  We  here  saw  the  gold  tested  by  the  "  hlackstone  ;" 
a  peculiar  kind  of  mineral,  black,  with  a  slight  tinge  of  blue. 
If,  when  the  gold  is  rubbed  upon  this  stone,  it  leaves  a  reddish 
mark,  it  is  regarded  as  a  satisfactory  proof  of  its  purity  ;  other 
wise,  there  is  more  or  less  alloy.  The  trader  is  obliged  to  de 
pend  upon  the  judgment  and  integrity  of  a  native  in  his  employ, 
who  is  skilful  in  trying  gold.  The  average  profit,  acquired  by 
the  foreign  traders  in  their  dealings  with  the  natives,  is  not  less 
than  a  hundred  per  cent,  on  the  principal  articles,  and  much 
more  on  the  smaller  ones.  No  inconsiderable  portion  of  this, 
however,  is  absorbed  by  the  numerous  "dashes;"  in  the  first 
place,  to  the  king,  then  to  the  head  trade-men,  the  canoe- 
men,  and  all  others  whose  agency  can  anywise  influence  the 
success  of  the  business. 

The  masters  or  supercargoes  of  English  vessels  receive,  be 
sides  their  regular  pay  of  six  pounds  per  month,  a  commission  of 
five  per  cent,  on  all  sales  ;  they  being  responsible  for  any  debts 
which  they  may  allow  the  natives  to  contract. 

12. — Ashore  at  Cape  Lahon,  the  scene  of  the  recent  hostilities 
between  the  French  and  the  natives.  We  landed  in  large  heavy 
canoes,  flat-bottomed  and  square-sided.  The  town  is  built  upon 
a  narrow  point  of  land  between  the  sea  and  a  lake,  just  at  the- 
outlet  of  two  rivers.  On  the  side  next  the  sea,  you  discern  only 
the  bamboo  walls  of  the  town,  and  a  few  cocoa-nut  trees,  scat 
tered  along  the  sandy  beach  ;  but  on  the  lake  side,  there  is  one  of 
the  loveliest  views  imaginable.  The  quiet  lake  and  its  wooded 
islands  ;  the  thousand  of  green  cocoa-nut  trees,  laden  with  fruit, 
and  shadowing  all  the  shore  ;  the  rivers,  broad  and  dark,  stretch 
ing  away  on  either  hand,  until  lost  among  the  depths  of  the 
forest,  which  doubtless  extends  into  the  mysterious  heart  of 
Africa  ;  the  canoes,  returning  along  these  majestic  streams  with 
people  who  had  fled  ;  the  hundreds  of  natives  who  reclined  in  the 
shade,  or  clustered  around  a  fountain  in  the  sand,  or  busied 


124  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xv. 

themselves  with  the  canoes ; — all  contributed  to  form  a  picture 
which  was  very  pleasant  to  our  eyes,  long  wearied  as  we  were 
with  the  sight  of  ocean  and  sky,  and  the  dreary  skirts  of  the 
sea-shore.  It  was  an  hour  of  true  repose,  while  we  lay  in  the 
shadow  of  the  trees,  and  drank  the  cool  milk  of  cocoa-nuts, 
which  the  native  boys  plucked  and  opened  for  us. 

I  should  have  narrated,  in  the  first  place,  our  visit  to  King 
Peter,  who  rules  over  this  beautiful  spot.  He  held  his  court 
under  an  awning  of  palm-leaves,  in  an  area  of  more  than  a 
hundred  feet  square,  around  the  sides  of  which  were  the  little 
dwellings  that,  conjointly,  composed  his  palace.  The  King  re 
ceived  us  with  dignity  and  affability  ;  and  probably  not  less  than 
two  hundred  of  his  subjects  were  collected  in  the  area,  to  witness 
the  interview  ;  for  it  was  to  them  a  matter  of  national  impor 
tance.  They  are  exceedingly  anxious  to  adjust  their  difficulties 
with  the  French,  and  hope  to  interest  us  as  mediators.  By  their 
own  history  of  the  affair,  which  was  laid  before  us  at  great 
length,  they  appear  to  have  been  only  moderately  to  blame,  and 
to  have  suffered  a  great  deal  of  mischief.  King  Quashee  and 
nine  men  were  killed,  and  fifty  or  sixty  houses  burnt,  besides 
other  damage. 

These  people  are  a  fine-looking  race,  well  formed,  and  with  very 
pleasing  countenances.  At  our  first  arrival  the  women  were  all 
at  the  plantations,  in  the  interior,  whither  they  had  fled  when  our 
ship  came  in  sight,  apprehending  her  to  be  French.  Towards 
evening,  they  returned  to  the  village,  and  afforded  us  an  oppor 
tunity  to  see  and  talk  with  them.  They  are  the  handsomest 
African  dames  with  whom  I  have  formed  an  acquaintance,  and 
the  most  affable.  It  grieves  me  to  add,  that,  like  all  their  coun 
trymen  and  countrywomen,  they  are  importunate  beggars,  and 
seem  greatly  to  prefer  the  fiery  liquors  of  the  white  man  to  their 
own  mild  palm-wine  and  cocoa-nut  milk.  One  of  our  party 
offered  rum  to  the  eight  young  wives  of  Tom  Beggree,  our  trade- 
man  ;  and  every  soul  of  them  tossed  off  her  goblet  without  a 
wry  face,  though  it  was  undiluted,  and  thirty-three  per  cent, 
above  proof. 

As  at  other  places,  each  family  resides  in  a  separate  enclosure, 
which  is  larger  or  smaller,  according  to  the  number  of  houses 


CHAP,  xv.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  125 

required.  Domestic  harmony  is  in  some  degree  provided  for,  by 
allotting  a  separate  residence  to  each  wife.  There  is  a  court 
yard  before  most  of  the  enclosures,  after  traversing  which,  you 
enter  a  spacious  square,  and  perceive  neatly  built  houses  on  all 
four  of  its  sides.  They  are  constructed  of  bamboo-cane  placed 
upright,  and  united  by  cross-pieces  of  the  same,  strongly  sewed 
together  with  thongs  of  some  tough  wood.  Some  of  the  floors 
are  not  untastefully  paved  with  small  pebbles,  intermingled  with 
white  shells.  Doors  there  are  none,  the  entrance  being  through 
the  windows,  in  order  to  keep  out  the  pigs  and  sheep,  which 
abound  in  the  enclosures.  The  streets  or  passages  through  the 
town  are  about  five  feet  wide,  and  are  bordered  on  either  side  by 
the  high  bamboo  wall  of  some  private  domain.  The  settlement 
extends  more  than  a  mile  in  length,  and  is  the  largest  and  best- 
built  that  I  have  yet  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  on  the  coast  of 
Africa. 


126  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvi. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Visit  from  two  English  Trading-Captains — The  Invisible  King  of  Jack-a-Jack 
— Human  Sacrifices — French  Fortresses  at  Grand  Bassam,  at  Assinee,  and 
other  points — Objections  to  the  Locality  of  Liberia — Encroachments  on 
the  Limits  of  (hat  Colony — Arrival  at  Axim — Sketches  of  that  Settlement — 
Dix  Cove — Civilized  Natives — An  Alligator. 

April  14. — UNDER  way  from  Cape  Lahon  at  daylight.  All 
the  morning,  there  were  light  breezes  and  warm  air ;  but  a  fine 
sea-breeze  set  in,  in  the  afternoon,  and  brought  us,  at  seven 
o'clock,  to  anchor  at  "Grand  Jack,"  or  " Jack-a-Jack."  The 
distributors  of  names  along  this  coast  deserve  no  credit  for  their 
taste.  The  masters  of  two  English  merchantmen  came  on 
board  and  spent  the  evening.  One  of  them  was  far  gone  with 
a  consumption ;  the  other  was,  in  his  own  phrase,  a  "  jolly 
cock,"  and  seemed  disposed  to  make  himself  amusing ;  in  pur 
suance  of  which  object  he  became  very  drunk,  before  taking  his 
departure.  Englishmen,  in  this  station  of  life,  do  not  occupy  the 
same  social  rank  as  with  us,  and,  consequently,  have  seldom  the 
correct  and  gentlemanly  manners  of  our  own  ship-masters.  The 
master  of  an  English  merchant-vessel  would  hardly  be  consi 
dered  a  fit  guest  for  either  the  cabin  or  ward-room  of  a  British 
man-of-war. 

These  masters  informed  us  that  they  had  paid  three  hundred 
dollars  each,  for  the  king's  "  dash,"  at  this  place  ;  in  addition  to 
which,  every  merchant-captain  must  pay  eight  dollars  on  land 
ing,  and  if  from  Bristol,  twenty-four  dollars.  This  distinction 
is  in  consequence  of  a  Bristol  captain  having  shot  a  native,  some 
years  ago  ;  and  when  the  palaver  was  settled,  the  above  amount 
of  blood-money  was  imposed  upon  all  ship-masters  from  the  same 
place.  Our  two  visitors  have  now  been  here  for  months,  and 
will  remain  for  months  longer,  without  once  setting  foot  on  shore ; 
partly  to  avoid  incurring  the  impost  on  landing,  partly  from 


CHAP,  xvi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISKK.  I'-H 


caution  against  the  natives,  and  partly  to  keep  their 
secret.  The  jealousy  between  the  traders  is  very  great. 
from  Bristol,  Liverpool,  and  London,  all  are  in  active  competi 
tion  with  each  other,  and  with  any  foreigner  who  may  come  in 
their  way  ;  and  their  policy  may  truly  be  described  as  Machia- 
velian,  in  its  mystery,  craft,  and  crookedness.  The  business 
requires  at  least  as  long  an  apprenticeship  as  the  diplomacy  of 
nations,  and  a  new  hand  has  but  little  chance  among  these  sharp 
fellows. 

15. — Some  canoes  from  the  shore  have  been  off  to  us.  We 
learn  from  them,  that  there  is  to  be  a  great  annual  festival  to 
day  ;  on  which  occasion  the  king,  who  has  been  secluded  from 
the  sight  of  his  subjects  for  eight  years,  will  shine  forth  again, 
"  like  a  re-appearing  star."  There  is  something  very  provoca 
tive  to  the  imagination  in  this  circumstance.  What  can  have 
been  the  motive  of  such  a  seclusion  ?  was  it  in  the  personal  cha 
racter  of  the  king,  and  did  he  shut  himself  up  to  meditate  on 
high  matters,  or  to  revel  in  physical  indulgence  ?  or,  possibly,  to 
live  his  own  simple  life,  untrammelled  by  the  irksome  exterior 
of  greatness  ?  or  was  it  merely  a  trick  of  kingcraft,  in  order  to 
deify  himself  in  the  superstition  of  his  people,  by  the  awfulnes* 
of  an  invisible  presence  among  them  ?  Be  the  secret  what  it  may, 
it  would  be  interesting  to  observe  the  face  of  the  royal  hermit, 
at  the  moment  when  the  sunshine  and  the  eyes  of  his  subjects 
first  fall  upon  it  again.  The  inhabitants  from  many  miles  around 
have  come  to  witness  and  participate  in  the  ceremonies.  There 
are  to  be  grand  dances,  and  all  manner  of  festivity  ;  and  one  of 
the  English  captains  informed  us  that  he  had  sold  a  thousand 
gallons  of  rum,  within  a  fortnight,  to  be  quaffed  at  this  celebration. 

There  is  another  circumstance  that  may  give  the  festival  a 
darker  interest.  It  is  customary,  on  such  occasions,  to  sacrifice 
one  or  two  slaves,  who  are  generally  culprits  reserved  for  this 
anniversary.  The  natives  on  board  deny  that  there  will  be  any 
such  sacrifice,  but  admit  that  a  palaver  will  be  held  over  a  slave, 
who  had  attempted  to  escape.  Should  it  be  so,  the  poor  wretch 
will  stand  little  chance  for  mercy  at  the  hands  of  these  barba 
rians,  frenzied  with  rum,  and  naturally  blood-thirsty.  We  are 
all  anxious  to  go  on  shore,  to  see  the  ceremonies,  and  try  to  save 


128  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP    xvi 

.the  destined  victim ;  or,  if  better  may  not  be,  to  witness  the 
thrilling  spectacle  of  a  human  sacrifice,  which,  being  partly  a 
religious  rite,  is  an  affair  of  a  higher  order  than  one  of  our  civil 
ized  executions.  But  our  captain  has  heard  of  an  English  ves 
sel  ashore  and  in  distress,  a  day's  sail  below,  and  is  hastening 
to  their  assistance.  While  taking  our  departure,  therefore,  we 
can  only  turn  our  eyes  towards  the  shore,  where  a  large  town 
is  visible,  clustered  under  the  shelter  of  a  cocoa-nut  grove. 

16. — At  7  A.  M.,  we  are  passing  Grand  Bassam,  seven 
or  eight  miles  from  land.  Our  track  just  touches  the  outer 
edge  of  the  semicircular  line  of  dirty  foam,  indicating  the  dis 
tance  to  which  the  influence  of  the  river  extends.  Within  the 
verge,  the  water  is  discolored  by  recent  contact  with  the  earth ; 
beyond  it,  ripples  the  uncontaminated,  pure,  blue  ocean.  One 
is  the  emblem  of  human  life,  muddied  with  base  influences  ;  the 
other,  of  eternity,  which  is  only  not  transparent  because  of  its 
depth. 

Grand  Bassam  is  one  of  the  many  places  on  the  coast,  where 
the  French  have  recently  established  forts,  and  raised  their  flag. 
Three  large  houses  are  visible.  The  one  in  the  centre  seems 
to  be  the  military  residence  and  stronghold  ;  the  other  two  are 
long  buildings,  one  story  high,  and  are  probably  used  as  store 
houses.  A  picket-fence  surrounds  the  whole.  At  Assinee, 
likewise,  which  is  now  in  sight,  there  is  another  French  fort, 
consisting  of  a  block-house  and  two  store-houses,  encompassed 
by  pickets.  The  French  government  are  also  fortifying  other 
points  along  the  coast,  in  the  most  systematic  manner.  The 
general  plan  is,  a  block-house  in  the  centre,  with  long  structures 
extending  from  each  angle,  two  for  barracks,  and  two  for  trading- 
houses;  the  whole  enclosed  within  a  stockade.  They  are  im 
posing  establishments,  and  constructed  with  an  evident  view  to 
durability.  It  is  said  that  all  but  French  vessels  are  to  be  pro 
hibited  from  trading  within  range  of  their  guns,  and  that  a  man- 
of-war  is  to  be  stationed  at  each  settlement.  The  captain  of  a 
Bremen  brig  informed  me,  that  the  Danes  are  about  to  sell  their 
fort  at  Accra  to  the  French ;  he  gave  as  his  authority  the  single 
Danish  officer  remaining  at  Accra. 

It  is  perhaps  to  be  regretted  that  the  colonies  of  Liberia  were 


CHAP,  xvi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  129 

not  originally  planted  in  the  fertile  territory  along  which  we 
have  recently  sailed,  and  which  other  nations  are  now  pre-occu- 
pying.  Liberia  does  not  appear  to  possess  so  rich  a  soil  as  most 
other  parts  of  the  coast ;  there  is  more  sand,  and  more  marsh, 
above  than  below  Cape  Palmas.  But  the  country  between  Capo 
Palmas  and  Axim  is  inhabited  by  cruel,  warlike,  and  power 
ful  tribes  ;  and  a  colony  would  need  more  strength  than  Liberia 
has  ever  yet  possessed,  to  save  it  from  destruction.  From  Axim 
to  Accra,  there  is  a  chain  of  forts  which  have  been  held  by  dif 
ferent  European  nations,  for  centuries;  nearly  all  the  coast  Is 
claimed  by  these  foreigners ;  while  the  interior  is  occupied  by 
such  powerful  kingdoms  as  those  of  Ashantee  and  Dahomey. 
On  these  accounts,  the  tract  now  called  Liberia  (extending  about 
three  hundred  miles,  from  Cape  Mesurado  to  Cape  Palmas)  was 
the  most  open  for  the  purposes  of  colonization.  Even  within  the 
limits  just  named,  however,  both  France  and  England  have  re 
cently  betrayed  a  purpose  of  effecting  settlements.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  these  nations  will  hereafter  transfer  their  titles  to 
Liberia.  Their  policy  doubtless  is,  to  hold  the  country  for  its 
exclusive  trade,  or  until  they  can  obtain  advantageous  terms  of 
commercial  intercourse  with  the  colonists  and  natives.  The 
attention  of  the  Society  at  home,  as  well  as  of  the  Liberian  gov 
ernment,  is  now  fully  awake  to  the  importance  of  securing  terri 
tory.  They  are  aware,  that,  without  vigorous  and  prompt  mea 
sures  to  extinguish  the  native  title  to  the  country  between  Mon 
rovia  and  Cape  Palmas,  foreign  nations  will  occupy  the  inter 
mediate  positions,  and  cause  much  embarrassment  hereafter. 

17. — At  Assinee.  We  boarded  a  French  brig-of-war,  the 
Eglantine,  last  evening,  and  learned  that  the  vessel,  which  ran 
ashore  here,  had  gone  to  pieces  ;  so  that  all  our  hurry  was  of  no 
avail. 

Sailed  at  9  A.  M .  for  Axim. 

18. — Last  night,  we  had  thunder,  lightning,  wind,  and  rain. 
There  are  showers  and  small  tornadoes,  almost  every  night, 
succeeded  by  clear  and  pleasant  days.  We  are  now  in  sight 
of  Cape-Three-Points,  and  the  fort  at  Axim.  It  is  pleasant,  af 
ter  the  monotonous  aspect  of  the  shore  to  windward,  to  see  a 
coast  with  deep  indentations  and  bold  promontories.  The  fort  at 
10 


130  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvi. 

Axim  has  a  commanding  Dppearance,  and  the  country  in  the 
vicinity  has  a  decidedly  New-England  look. 

19. — Ashore  at  Axim,  where  we  met  with  some  features  of 
novelty.  Tlx?  fort  here  is  really  an  antique  castle,  having  been 
built  by  the  Portuguese  so  long  ago  as  1600,  and  taken  from 
them  by  its  present  possessors,  the  Dutch,  in  1639.  It  is  of 
stone,  built  upon  scientific  principles,  with  embrasures  for  can 
non  and  loop-holes  for  musketry.  The  walls  are  four  feet 
thick,  and  capable  of  sustaining  the  assault  of  ten  thousand 
natives.  The  fortress  is  three  stones  high,  the  basement  story 
bcing  widest,  and  each  of  the  others  diminishing  in  proportion, 
and  surrounded  by  a  terrace.  The  two  lower  departments  are 
intended  for  the  cannon  and  the  mass  of  the  defenders ;  while 
the  Governor  occupies  the  upper  as  his  permanent  residence, 
and  may  there  fortify  himself  impregnably,  even  if  an  enemy 
should  possess  the  fort  below — unless,  indeed,  they  should  blow 
him  into  the  air. 

The  country  claimed  by  the  Dutch,  extends  about  thirty  miles 
along  the  coast,  and  twenty  miles  into  the  interior,  with  a  popu 
lation  estimated  at  about  ten  thousand.  They  seem — particu 
larly  those  who  reside  in  the  villages  beneath  the  fortress — to 
be  entirely  under  the  control  of  their  European  masters,  and  to 
live  comfortably,  and  be  happy  in  their  condition.  The  natives 
possess  slaves ;  and  there  are  also  many  "  pawns,"  of  a  descrip 
tion  seldom  offered  to  the  pawnbrokers  in  other  parts  of  the 
world  ;  namely,  persons  who  have  pledged  the  services  of  them 
selves  and  family  to  some  creditor,  until  the  debt  be  paid.  It  is  a 
good  and  forcible  illustration  of  the  degradation  which  debt  al 
ways  implies,  though  it  may  not  always  be  outwardly  visible,  as 
here  at  Axim.  The  Governor  himself,  who  is  a  native  of  Am 
sterdam,  and  apparently  a  mulatto,  is  one  of  those  pawn-brokers 
who  deal  in  human  pledges.  He  is  a  merchant-soldier,  bearing 
the  military  title  of  lieutenant,  and  doing  business  as  a  trader. 
The  Governor  of  El  Mina  is  his  superior  officer,  and  the 
fort  at  Axim  is  garrisoned  by  twelve  black  soldiers  from  the  for 
mer  place.  War  has  existed  for  several  years  between  these 
Dutch  settlements  and  their  powerful  neighbor,  the  king  of 
Appollonia,  who  is  daily  expected  to  attack  the  fortress.  In  that 


CHAP,  xvi.]  .iUISER.  131 

event,  the  people  in  the  neighboring  villages  would  take  refuge 
within  tlu?  walls,  and  there  await  the  result. 

The  native  houses  are  constructed  in  the  usual  manner,  of 
small  polt's  and  bamboo,  plastered  over  with  clay,  and  thatched. 
They  might  be  kept  comfortable  if  kept  in  repair,  but  are  most 
ly  in  a  wretched  state,  although  thronged  with  occupants.  The 
proportion  of  women,  as  well  as  children,  appears  larger  than  in 
othi  r  places;  and  they  wear  a  greater  amplitude  of  apparel 
than  those  of  their  sex  on  the  windward  coast,  covering  their 
persons  from  the  waist  to  the  knee,  and  even  lower.  The  most 
remarkable  article  of  dress  is  one  which  I  have  vaguely  under 
stood  to  constitute  a  part  of  the  equipment  of  my  own  fair 
countrywomen — in  a  word,  the  veritable  bustle.  Among  the 
belles  of  Axim,  there  is  a  reason  for  the  excrescence  which  does 
not  exist  elsewhere. ;  for  the  little  children  ride  astride  of  the 
maternal  bustle,  which  thus  becomes  as  useful,  as  it  is  unques 
tionably  ornamental.  Fashion,  however,  has  evidently  more 
to  do  with  the  matter  than  convenience  ;  for  old  wrinkled  gran- 
dams  wear  these  beautiful  anomalies,  and  little  girls  of  eight 
years  old  display  protuberances  that  might  excite  the  envy  of 
a  Broadway  belle.  Indeed,  fashion  may  be  said  to  have  its 
perfect  triumph  and  utmost  refinement,  in  this  article ;  it  being 
a  positive  fact,  that  some  of  the  Axim  girls  wear  merely  the 
bustle,  without  so  much  as  the  shadow  of  a  garment.  Its  na 
tive  name  is  "  tarb  koshe." 

Axim  is  said  to  be  perfectly  healthy,  there  being  no  marshes 
in  the  vicinity.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  the  growth  luxuriant. 
There  is  a  fine  well  of  water,  from  which  ships  may  be  sup 
plied  abundantly  and  easily,  though  not  cheaply.  The  land 
ing  place  is  protected  by  small  islands  and  reefs,  which  break 
the  force  of  the  swell ;  so  that  boats  may  land  with  as  much 
safety  and  as  little  difficulty  as  in  a  river.  One  of  our  boats, 
nevertheless,  with  fifteen  or  sixteen  persons  on  board,  ran  on 
a  rock  and  bilged,  in  attempting  to  go  ashore.  All  were  hap 
pily  saved  by  canoes  from  the  beach.  There  is  a  great  abun 
dance  of  pearl-shells  to  be  found  along  tho  shore,  not  valuable, 
but  pretty. 

The  currency  here  is  gold  dust,  which  passes  from  hand  to 


132  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvi. 

hand  as  freely  as  coin  bearing  the  impress  of  a  monarch  or 
a  republic.  The  governor's  weights  for  gold  are  small  beans;  a 
brown  one  being  equivalent  to  a  dollar,  and  a  red  one  to  fifty 
cents. 

22. — Ashore  ;  and  spent  most  of  the  day  in  the  fortress  ;  one 
of  the  cool  places  of  Africa.  Situated  on  a  high,  rocky  point  of 
land,  with  the  sea  on  three  sides,  every  breeze  that  stirs,  however 
lightly,  is  sure  to  be  felt  on  the  terraces  of  the  castle  of  Axim  ; 
and  they  bring  coolness  even  at  noontide,  being  tempered  by  the 
spray  constantly  rising  from  the  waves  that  dash  against  the 
rocks  below. 

There  is  great  difficulty  in  procuring  any  supplies  here,  except 
wood  and  water,  and  those  at  a  high  rate — seven  dollars  per 
cord  for  the  former,  and  one  dollar  for  each  hundred  gallons  of 
the  latter ;  this,  too,  including  only  the  filling  of  the  casks,  and 
rolling  them  a  short  distance  on  the  beach.  We  found  it  im 
possible  to  purchase  bullocks,  sheep,  or  pigs,  and  but  very  little 
poultry.  The  governor  explained,  that  several  men-of-war  had 
recently  visited  the  settlement,  and  taken  all  the  live  stock  that 
could  be  spared,  and  that  the  war  with  Appollonia  had  cut  off  the 
large  supply  formerly  drawn  from  that  country.  The  natives 
at  this  place  cannot  furnish  vessels  with  supplies,  unless  by  the 
governor's  express  permission ;  which,  it  is  said,  he  does  not 
grant,  except  upon  condition  that  they  expend  the  proceeds  in 
purchasing  goods  from  him.  One  of  our  stewards  bought  a 
roasting-pig,  on  shore  ;  and  the  fact  coming  to  the  ears  of  Gov 
ernor  Rhule,  he  notified  the  people  that  there  would  be  a  pala 
ver  after  our  departure,  for  the  discovery  of  the  offender.  The 
fine  for  a  transgression  of  this  kind  is  two  ounces  of  gold,  or 
thirty-two  dollars.  Let  us  imagine  a  village  storekeeper,  in  our 
own  country,  possessing  supreme  control  over  all  the  traffic  of 
his  neighbors — and  we  shall  have  an  idea  of  the  relative  posi 
tion  of  the  Governor  of  Axim  and  the  natives.  Moreover,  he  is 
the  general  arbitrator,  ex  officio,  and  expects  that  all  awards 
shall  be  paid  in  cash,  and  that  the  successful  party  spend  the 
amount  at  his  shop. 

We  learned  from  Governor  Rhule,  that  the  Dutch  govern 
ment,  some  years  ago,  had  sent  agents  from  El  Mina  to  Comas- 


CHAP,  xvi.]  ^  RIC  AN  CRUISER. 


see,  the  capital  of  Ashantee,  for  the  purchase  of  slaves,  to  be 
employed  in  the  wars  between  the  Dutch  East  India  settlements 
and  the  natives  of  that  region.  Three  thousand  were  thus  pur 
chased,  at  forty  dollars  each,  and  transported  to  Batavia.  Per 
haps  no  circumstance,  possible  to  be  conceived,  could  do  more 
to  strip  war  of  its  poetry,  than  such  a  fact  ;  and  yet  it  is  in 
good  keeping  with  the  character  of  a  shrewd,  commercial,  bu 
siness-like  people,  endowed  with  more  common  sense  than  chi 
valry  or  sensibility.  A  British  general,  in  order  to  carry  on  an 
expedition  against  a  French  colony,  once  entered  into  a  similar 
speculation  ;  but  it  was  indignantly  annulled  by  his  government. 
In  the  present  case,  the  exportation  of  slaves,  to  fight  the  battles 
of  their  masters,  ceased  only  two  or  three  years  since,  on  the 
termination  of  the  war.  These  servile  soldiers  continued  in 
Batavia,  except  a  few  wounded  ones,  who  have  been  sent  back 
to  El  Mina,  and  now  reside  there  on  pensions. 

Between  Axim  and  Accra,  both  inclusive,  there  are  six  Dutch 
forts  now  occupied  and  in  repair,  besides  several  which  have  been 
abandoned.  I  was  told  that  the  annual  cost  of  these  establish 
ments,  to  the  home-government,  is  not  more  than  twenty  thousand 
dollars  ;  most  of  their  expenses  being  defrayed  by  duties,  port- 
charges.  and  other  revenue  accruing  on  the  spot. 

24.  —  We  left  Axim  yesterday,  and  anchored,  last  night,  off  the 
British  settlement  at  Dixcove.  This  morning,  while  heaving  up 
the  anchor,  a  boat  came  off  from  the  schooner  Edward  Burley  of 
Bevaley,  requesting  assistance,  as  her  spars  had  been  shivered 
by  lightning.  Soon  after,  the  commandant  of  the  fort  came  on 
board,  in  a  large  and  handsome  canoe,  paddled  by  ten  or  twelve 
natives.  The  passengers  sit  in  the  bows,  using  chairs  or  stools 
for  seats,  and  protected  from  the  surf  and  spray  by  the  high  sides 
of  the  canoe.  We  dined  on  shore  with  the  Governor,  Mr.  Swansey, 
at  his  new  residence,  in  the  cool  and  refreshing  atmosphere  of 
a  high  hill.  The  house  is  handsomely  furnished  in  the  English 
style.  Mr.  Swansey  has  resided  ten  years  on  the  coast,  and  was 
one  of  the  persons  examined  before  the  Committee  of  Parliament 
in  reference  to  the  state  and  affairs  of  this  region.  There  is  a 
circumstance  that  connects  this  gentleman,  though  but  slightly, 
with  poetic  annals.  Being  at  Cape  Coast  Castle  at  the  time  of 


134  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvi. 

Mrs.  McLean's  death,  he  was  one  of  the  inquest  that  examined 
into  that  melancholy  event.  His  account  confirms  the  general 
impression,  that  her  death  was  unpremeditated,  and  caused  by  an 
accidental  over-dose  of  prussic-acid,  which  she  was  in  the  habit 
of  taking  for  spasms.  She  was  found  alone,  and  nearly  dead,  be 
hind  the  door  of  her  apartment.  Alas,  poor  L.  E.  L. !  It  was 
certainly  a  strange  and  wild  vicissitude  of  fate  that  made  it  the 
duty  of  this  respectable  African  merchant,  in  company  with  men 
of  similar  fitness  for  the  task,  to  "  sit"  upon  the  body — say, 
father,  on  the  heart — of  a  creature  so  delicate,  impassioned,  and 
imaginative. 

The  native  houses  here  are  quite  large  ;  three  or  four  being 
two  stories  high,  with  balconies,  built  of  stone,  in  the  Spanish 
style.  They  are  furnished  with  sofas,  bedsteads,  and  pictures. 
One  elderly  native  received  us  in  a  calico  surtout,  and  gave  us 
ale.  Another  wore  the  native  garb,  with  the  long  cloth  folded 
around  him  and  resting  upon  his  shoulder,  like  a  Roman  toga. 
He  offered  champagne,  Madeira,  gin,  brandy,  ale,  and  cigars, 
and  pressed  us  to  partake,  with  a  dignified  and  elegant  hospitali 
ty.  This  was  Mr.  Brace.  He  had  a  clerk  (of  native  blood,  but 
dressed  in  cap,  jacket,  and  pantaloons,  in  the  English  style),  who 
spoke  good  English,  and  was  very  gentlemanly.  It  is  interest 
ing  to  meet  the  natives  of  Africa  at  so  advanced  a  stage  of  re 
finement,  yet  retaining  somewhat  of  their  original  habits  and 
character,  which  is  of  course  entirely  lost  in  the  Liberian  colo 
nists. 

25. — Spent  the  morning  on  shore,  at  the  government-house, 
reading  the  English  newspapers,  and  enjoying  the  coolness  of  the 
position  and  the  society  of  the  intelligent  governor.  I  was  inter 
ested  in  observing  an  alligator,  inhabiting  a  fresh-water  pond,  on 
the  edge  of  the  town.  A  chicken  being  held  out  to  him  as  a 
lure,  he  came  out  of  the  pond  and  snapped  at  it,  making  a  loud, 
startling  noise  with  his  teeth.  He  had  entirely  emerged  from 
his  native  element,  and  remained  some  fifteen  minutes  on  land, 
during  which  time  he  snapped  five  or  six  times  at  the  fowl,  which 
was  as  often  drawn  away  by  a  string.  At  length,  seizing  his 
prey,  he  plunged  with  it  into  the  water,  dived,  swam  across  the 
pond,  and  rose  to  the  surface  on  the  other  side,  where  he  masti- 


CHAP,  xvi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  135 

catcd  his  breakfast,  at  his  leisure.  Three  alligators  inhabit  this 
pond,  and  being  regarded  as  "  f« -ashes,"  or  charmed  and  sacred 
creatures,  are  never  injured  by  the  natives.  On  their  part,  the 
amphibious  monsters  seem  to  cherish  amicable  feelings  towards 
the  human  race,  and  allow  children  to  bathe  and  sport  in  the 
pond,  without  injury  or  molestation.  The  reptile  that  I  saw  was 
seven  or  eight  feet  long,  with  formidable  teeth  and  scales. 

Instead  of  the  cassada  and  rice  of  the  windward  coast,  corn  is 
here  the  principal  food.  After  being  pounded  in  their  long 
mortars,  it  is  ground  fine,  by  hand,  between  two  stones  like  those 
used  by  painters,  and  is  mixed  with  palm-wine. 

28. — Having  repaired  the  American  schooner,  and  supplied 
her  with  one  of  our  spare  topmasts,  we  are  ready  to  sail  to-day. 


136  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvii. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Dutch  Settlement  at  El  Mina — Appearance  of  the  Town — Cape  Coast  Cas 
tle — Burial-place  of  L.  E.  L. — An  English  Dinner — Festivity  on  Ship 
board — British,  Dutch,  and  Danish  Accra — Native  Wives  of  Europeans — 
A  Royal  Princess— An  Armadillo — Sail  for  St.  Thomas — Aspect  of  the 
Island. 

April  29.— AT  10  A.  M.,  anchored  off  the  Dutch  settlement 
of  El  Mina.  The  Governor's  lieutenant  boarded  us  in  a  large  ca 
noe,  paddled  by  about  a  score  of  blacks.  A  salute  was  fired  by 
our  ship,  and  returned  from  the  castle  with  a  degree  of  splendor 
quite  unexpected ;  for  a  portion  qf  the  native  town,  situated  be 
neath  the  castle-walls,  was  set  on  fire  by  the  wad  of  a  cannon, 
and  twenty  or  thirty  houses  burnt  to  the  ground.  On  landing, 
we  received  a  message,  intimating  that,  the  Governor  would  be 
glad  to  see  us,  and  consequently  called  upon  him.  He  is  a  man 
of  about  thirty,  who  came  out  in  1832,  as  a  clerk,  and  has  risen 
to  be  Governor, with  the  military  rank  of  lieutenant-colonel.  All 
the  civil  officers  have  military  titles,  and  wear  the  corresponding 
uniforms,  for  effect  upon  the  natives  ;  but  the  Dutch  evince 
their  shrewdness  by  placing  practical  men  of  business,  rather 
than  soldiers,  at  the  head  of  their  colonial  establishments.  The 
only  officer  of  the  regular  army  is  a  lieutenant,  commanding 
the  guard,  of  one  hundred  men. 

El  Mina — the  Mine — was  built  in  1482,  or  thereabouts,  by  the 
Portuguese,  whose  early  navigators  have  left  tokens  of  their  en 
terprise  all  along  this  coast ;  although  the  achievements  of  those 
adventurous  men  do  but  illustrate  the  nation's  present  supineness 
and  decay.  The  settlement  was  taken  by  the  Dutch  about  a 
century  after  its  foundation.  The  main  fortress  is  extensive, 
mounting  ninety  guns,  and  is  capable  of  withstanding  the  assault 
of  a  large  force  of  regular  troops.  On  an  eminence,  above  the 
town,  is  a  second  fort,  apparently  strong  and  in  good  repair ;  and 
two  small  batteries  are  placed  in  commanding  situations. 


CHAP,  xvii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  137 

The  houses  in  the  town  are  built  of  stone,  and  thatched.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and  dirty,  imparting  to  the  place 
the  air  of  intricate  bewilderment  of  some  of  the  old  European 
cities.  Much  of  the  trade  is  done  in  the  streets,  and  entirely  by 
women,  who  sit  with  their  merchandize  on  the  ground  before 
them,  and  their  gold-scales  in  their  laps,  waiting  for  customers. 
It  would  perhaps  add  to  our  manliness  of  character,  if  at  least 
the  minor  departments  of  traffic  were  resigned  to  the  weaker 
sex,  among  ourselves.  Crossing  a  small  river,  we  came  to 
another,  and  by  far  the  best  section,  of  the  town.  There  are 
long,  wide  streets,  two  of  which,  meeting  at  an  obtuse  angle, 
form  together  an  extent  of  nearly  a  mile.  A  double  row  of  trees 
throw  their  shade  over  the  central  walk  of  this  Alameda.  At 
intervals  are  seated  groups  of  women-traders.  The  wares  of 
some  are  deposited  upon  the  ground,  while  pieces  of  cloth  are 
displayed  to  advantage  upon  lines,  stretching  from  tree  to  tree. 
Before  returning  on  board,  we  bespoke  rings  and  chains  of  a 
native  goldsmith.  The  fashions  of  Africa  are  less  evan> 
than  those  of  Europe  ;  and  we  may  expect  to  see  such  orna 
ments  as  glittered  on  the  bosom  of  the  Queen  of  Sheba. 

May  2. — Sailed  for  Cape  Coast  Castle  with  the  evening  breeze. 
3. — At  Cape  Coast  Castle. 

The  landing  is  effected  in  large  canoes,  which  convey  passen 
gers  close  to  the  rocks,  safely  and  without  being  drenched,  al 
though  the  surf  dashes  fifty  feet  in  height.  There  is  a  peculiar 
enjoyment  in  being  raised,  by  an  irresistible  power  beneath  you, 
upon  the  tops  of  the  high  rollers,  and  then  dropped  into  the  pro 
found  hollow  of  the  waves,  as  if  to  visit  the  bottom  of  the  ocean, 
at  whatever  depth  it  might  be.  We  landed  at  the  castle-gate, 
and  were  ushered  into  the  castle  itself,  where  the  commander  of 
the  troops  received  us  in  his  apartment. 

I  took  the  first  opportunity  to  steal  away,  to  look  at  the  burial- 
place  of  L.  E.  L.,  who  died  here,  after  a  residence  of  only  two 
months,  and  within  a  year  after  becoming  the  wife  of  Governor 
McLean.  A  small,  white  marble  tablet  (inserted  among  the 
massive  grey  stones  of  the  castle-wall,  where  it  faces  the  area 
of  the  fort)  bears  the  following  inscription  : — 


133  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvn. 


Hie  jacet  sepultum 
Omne  quod  mortale  fuit 
LETITIAE  ELISABETH  A  E 

Quam,  egregia  ornatam  indole, 

Musis  unice  amatam, 
Omniumque  atnores  secum  trahcntem, 

In  ipso  aetatis  flore, 

Mors  immatura  rapuit, 

Die  Octobris  xv.,  A.  D.  MDCCCXXXVIII, 

^Etat.  30. 


Quod  spectas  viator  marmor, 

Vanum  heu  doloris  monumentum, 

Conjux  moerens  erexit. 

The  first  thought  that  struck  me  was  the  inappropriateness  of 
the  spot  for  a  grave,  and  especially  for  the  grave  of  a  woman, 
and,  most  of  all,  a  woman  of  poetic  temperament.  In  the  open 
area  of  the  fort,  at  some  distance  from  the  castle-wall,  the  stone 
pavement  had  been  removed  in  several  spots,  and  replaced  with 
plain  tiles.  Here  lie  buried  some  of  the  many  British  officers 
who  have  fallen  victims  to  the  deadly  atmosphere  of  this  region  ; 
and  among  them  rests  L.  E.  L.  Her  grave  is  distinguishable  by 
the  ten  red  tiles  which  cover  it.  Daily,  the  tropic  sunshine 
blazes  down  upon  the  spot.  Daily,  at  the  hour  of  parade,  the 
peal  of  military  music  resounds  above  her  head,  and  the  garri 
son  marches  and  counter-marches  through  the  area  of  the  for 
tress,  nor  shuns  to  tread  upon  the  ten  red  tiles,  any  more  than 
upon  the  insensible  stones  of  the  pavement.  It  may  be  well  for 
the  fallen  commander  to  be  buried  at  his  post,  and  sleep  where 
the  reveille  and  roll-call  may  be  heard,  and  the  tramp  of  his 
fellow-soldiers  echo  and  re-echo  over  him.  All  this  is  in  unison 
with  his  profession ;  the  drum  and  trumpet  are  his  perpetual  re 
quiem  ;  the  soldier's  honorable  tread  leaves  no  indignity  upon 
the  dead  warrior's  dust.  But  who  has  a  right  to  trample  on  a 
woman's  breast  ?  And  what  had  L.  E.  L.  to  do  with  warlike 
parade  ?  And  wherefore  was  she  buried  beneath  this  scorching 
pavement,  and  not  in  the  retired  shadow  of  a  garden,  where  sel 
dom  any  footstep  would  come  stealing  through  the  grass,  and 
pause  before  her  tablet  ?  There,  her  heart,  while  in  one  sense 
it  decayed,  would  burst  forth  afresh  from  the  sod  in  a  profusion 


CHAP,  xvii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  130 

of  spontaneous  llouvrs,  such  as  her  living  fancy  lavished  through 
out  the;  world.  But  now,  no  verdure  nor  blossom  will  ever  grow 
upon  her  grave. 

If  a  man  may  ever  indulge  in  sentiment,  it  is  over  the  ashes 
of  a  woman  whose  poetry  touched  him  in  his  early  youth,  while 
he  yet  cared  anything  about  either  sentiment  or  poetry.  Thus 
much,  the  reader  will  pardon.  In  reference  to  Mrs.  McLean,  it 
may  be  added,  that,  subsequently  to  her  unhappy  death,  different 
rumors  were  afloat  as  to  its  cause,  some  of  them  cruel  to  her 
own  memory,  others  to  the  conduct  of  her  husband.  All  these 
reports  appear  to  have  been  equally  and  entirely  unfounded. 
It  is  well  established  here,  that  her  death  was  accidental. 

We  dined  at  the  castle  to-day,  and  met  the  officers  of  a  new 
English  brig,  the  Sea-Lark,  among  whom  I  was  happy  to  re- 

cognize  Lieutenant  B ,  an  acquaintance  at  Mahon,  and  a 

messmate  of  my  friend  C .  All  these  officers  are  gallant 

fellows  ;  and  the  commencement  of  our  acquaintance  promises 
to  place  them  and  ourselves  on  the  most  cordial  terms.  The 
dinner,  like  other  English  dinners,  was  rather  noisy,  but  rendered 
highly  agreeable  by  the  perfect  good  feeling  that  prevailed.  At 
eight  in  the  evening,  we  returned  on  board,  though  strongly 
urged  to  sleep  on  shore  by  the  Governor  and  all  our  other  friends. 
Such  hospitality,  though  unquestionably  sincere,  and  kindly 
meant,  it  was  far  better  to  decline  than  accept ;  for  it  was  much 
the  same  as  if  Death,  in  the  hearty  tone  of  good-fellowship,  had 
pressed  us  to  quaff  another  cup  and  spend  the  night  under  his 
roof.  Had  we  complied,  it  would  probably  have  cost  the  lives 
of  more  than  one  of  us.  Our  captain  took  wisdom  by  the  sad 
experience  of  the  English  brig,  which  had  lost  her  purser  and 
master  by  just  such  a  festivity,  prolonged  to  a  late  hour,  and 
finished  by  the  officers  passing  the  night  on  shore.  The  fever 
of  the  climate  punished  their  imprudence. 

All  vessels,  except  those  of  our  own  navy,  allow  their  officers 
to  sleep  on  shore.  They  expect  to  be  taken  sick,  but  hope  that 
the  first  attack  of  fever  will  season  them.  Possibly,  this  is  as 
wise  a  course  as  the  British  officers  could  adopt ;  for,  unlike 
ourselves,  they  are  compelled  by  duty  to  trust  themselves  in 
pestiferous  situations,  particularly  in  the  ascent  of  rivers,  where 


140  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvn. 


there  is  scarcely  a  chance  of  escaping  the  deadly  influence  of 
t.he  atmosphere.  They  therefore  confront  the  danger  at  once, 
and  eitherfall  beneath  it,  or  triumph  over  it. 

4. — Governor  McLean,  and  all  the  officers  of  the  castle  and 
brig,  dined  on  board.  The  table  was  laid  on  the  quarter-deck, 
and  was  the  scene  of  much  mirth  and  friendly  sentiment.  In 
the- evening,  the  theatre  was  open,  with  highly  respectable  per 
formances  ;  after  which  came  a  supper  ;  and  the  guests  took 
their  leave  at  midnight,  apparently  well-pleased. 

6. — We  sailed  yesterday  from  Cape  Coast  Castle,  and  anchor 
ed  to-day  at  Accra,  abreast  of  the  British  and  Dutch  forts. 

7. — Early  this  morning,  we  were  surrounded  with  canoes,  filled 
with  articles  for  sale.  The  most  remarkable  were  black  mon 
key-skins.  There  are  seven  vessels  at  anchor  here,  including 
our  own,  and  an  English  war-steamer.  Three  of  the  seven,  a 
barque,  brig,  and  schooner,  are  from  the  United  States  Land 
ing  in  a  canoe,  we  were  met  on  the  beach  by  the  Governor  and 
some  of  his  gentlemen,  and  escorted  to  the  castle.  Thence  we 
went  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Bannerman.  He  is  the  great  man 
of  Accra,  wealthy,  liberally  educated  in  England,  and  a  gentle 
man,  although  with  a  deep  tinge  of  African  blood  in  his  cheeks. 
But  when  native  blood  is  associated  with  gentlemanly  charac 
teristics  and  liberal  acquirements,  it  becomes,  instead  of  a  stigma 
of  dishonor,  an  additional  title  to  the  respect  of  the  world  ;  since 
it  implies  that  many  obstacles  have  been  overcome,  in  order  to 
place  the  man  where  we  find  him.  This,  however,  is  a  view 
not  often  taken  by  those  who  labor  under  the  misfortune  (for 
such  it  is,  if  they  so  consider  it)  of  having  African  blood  in 
their  veins. 

8. — A  missionary,  on  his  way  to  the  Gaboon,  and  two  Ameri 
can  merchant-captains,  Hunt  and  Dayley,  dined  with  us  in  the 
ward-room.  The  latter  are  respectable  men.  The  missionary, 
Mr.  Burchell,  seems  much  depressed.  He  has  had  the  fever  at 
Cape  Palmas,  the  effects  of  which  still  linger  in  his  constitution  ; 
while  his  companion,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Campbell,  although  but  re 
cently  from  America,  has  already  finished  his  earthly  labors, 
and  gone  to  his  reward.  We  left  them  only  a  month  ago  at 
Cape  Palmas,  in  perfect  health. 


CHAP,  rvii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  Ill 

9. — My  impressions  of  Accra  arc  more  favorable  than  of  any 
other  place  which  I  have  yet  seen  in  Africa.  British  and  Dutch 
Accra  are  contiguous.  Tho  forts  of  the  two  nations  are  within 
a  mile  of  each  other,  situated  on  ground  which,  at  a  little  dis 
tance,  appears  not  unlike  the  "  bluffs  "  on  our  western  rivers; 
level  upon  the  summit,  with  a  precipitous  descent,  as  if  the  land 
had  "  caved  in  "  from  the  action  of  the  water.  The  country 
round  is  level,  and  nearly  free  from  woods  as  far  as  the  rise  of 
the  hills,  some  ten  miles  distant.  About  three  miles  to  the  east 
ward,  Danish  Accra  shows  its  neat  town  and  well-kept  fortress. 
1  did  not  visit  the  place,  but  learn  that  it  is  fully  equal  to  its 
neighbors.  Thus,  within  a  circuit  of  three  or  four  miles,  the 
traveller  may  perform  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  the  grand 
tour,  visiting  the  territory  of  three  different  countries  of  Europe, 
and  observing  their  military  and  civil  institutions,  their  modes  of 
business,  their  national  characteristics,  and  all  assimilated  by  a 
general  modification,  resulting  from  the  climate  and  position  in 
which  they  arc  placed.  There  seems  to  be  an  exchange  of 
courtesy  and  social  kindness  among  the  three  settlements. 
Seven  or  eight  Europeans  reside  in  the  different  forts  ;  so  that, 
together  with  the  captains  of  merchant-vessels  in  the  roads,  there 
are  tolerable  resources  of  society. 

All  the  Europeans  have  native  wives,  who  dress  in  a  modest, 
but  peculiar  style,  of  whicli  the  lady  of  Mr.  Bannerrnan  may 
give  an  example.  She  wore  a  close-fitting  muslin  chemisette, 
buttoned  to  the  throat  with  gold  buttons,  a  black  silk  tunic  ex 
tending  to  the  thigh,  a  colored  cotton  cloth,  fastened  round  thf 
waist  and  falling  as  low  as  the  ancles,  black  silk  stockings  ana 
prunella  shoes.  This  lady  is  jet  black,  of  pleasing  countenance, 
and  is  a  princess  of  royal  blood.  In  the  last  great  battle  between 
the  Europeans  on  the  coast  and  the  powerful  King  of  Ashantee 
(the  same  who  defeated  and  slew  Sir  Charles  McCarthy),  the 
native  army  was  put  to  total  rout  by  the  aid  of  Congreve  rock 
ets.  The  king's  camp,  with  most  of  his  women,  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  victors.  Three  of  nis  daughters  were  appropriated 
by  the  English  merchants,  here  and  at  Cape  Coast,  and  became 
their  faithful  and  probably  happy  wives.  One  of  the  three  fell 
to  the  lot  of  Mr.  Bannerman,  and  is  the  lady  whom  I  have  des- 


142  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvn. 


cribed.  These  women  are  entrusted  with  all  the  property  of 
their  husbands,  and  are  sometimes  left  for  months  in  sole  charge, 
while  the  merchants  visit  England.  The  acting  governor  of  the 
British  fort,  Mr.  Topp,  departs  for  that  country  to-morrow,  leav 
ing  his  native  wife  at  the  head  of  affairs. 

Mr.  Bannerman  is  of  Scottish  blood  by  paternal  descent,  but 
African  by  the  mother's  side,  and  English  by  education,  and  is 
a  gentleman  in  manner  and  feeling.  He  is  the  principal  mer 
chant  here,  and  transacts  a  large  business  with  the  natives,  who 
come  from  two  or  three  hundred  miles  in  the  interior,  and  con 
stantly  crowd  his  yard.  There  they  sit,  in  almost  perfect  silence, 
receiving  their  goods,  and  making  payment  in  gold-dust  and 
ivory.  Towards  us  Mr.  Bannerman  showed  himself  most  hospi 
table,  yet  in  a  perfectly  unostentatious  manner. 

Accra  is  the  land  of  plenty  in  Africa.  Beef,  mutton,  turkeys 
and  chickens  abound  ;  and  its  supply  of  European  necessaries 
and  luxuries  is  unequalled. 

10. — We  got  under  way,  yesterday,  for  the  "  Islands,"  a  term 
well  understood  to  mean  those  of  St.  Thomas  and  Prince's.  Mr. 
Bushnell  (one  of  the  two  missionaries  who  proposed  to  take  pas 
sage  with  us  from  Cape  Palmas,  a  month  since)  is  now  on  board 
as  a  passenger  to  Prince's  Island.  The  other,  Mr.  Campbell,  is 
dead.  He  was  of  a  wealthy  and  influential  family  in  Kentucky, 
and  is  said  to  have  been  a  young  man  of  extraordinary  talent 
and  promise. 

Yesterday  we  fired  seventeen  minute-guns,  in  obedience  to  an 
order  from  the  Navy-Department  for  the  melancholy  death  of  its 
chief,  by  the  explosion  of  the  Princeton's  gun.  At  twelve  o'clock 
to-day,  we  fired  thirteen  minute  guns,  as  a  tribute  of  respect  to 
the  memory  of  Commodore  Kennon,  who  fell  a  victim  to  the  same 
disastrous  accident.  Alone  on  the  waters,  months  after  tube 
event,  and  five  thousand  miles  from  the  scene  of  his  fate,  we 
gave  a  sailor's  requiem  to  a  brave  and  accomplished  officer. 

11. — Calm  and  sunny.  Oh,  how  sunny! — and,  alas,  how 
calm ! 

At  Accra,  I  received  a  present  of  an  armadillo,  or  ant-eater, 
who  is  certainly  a  wonderful  animal,  and  well  worth  studying, 
in  the  tedium  of  a  calm  between  the  tropics.  The  body  proper 


CHAP,  xvii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  143 

is  but  about  nine  inches,  but,  when  stretched  at  length,  he  covers 
an  extent  of  two  and  a  half  feet,  from  head  to  tail,  and  is  wholly 
fortified  with  an  impenetrable  armor  of  bony  scales.  On  any 
occasion  of  alarm,  it  is  his  custom  to  thrusi  his  long  nose  between 
his  hind-legs,  and  roll  his  body  and  tail  compactly  together,  so  as 
to  appear  like  the  half  of  a  ball,  presenting  no  vulnerable  part 
to  an  enemy.  In  this  condition  he  affords  an  excellent  example; 
of  a  self- involved  philosopher,  defending  himself  from  the  annoy 
ance  of  the  world  by  a  stoical  crustiness,  and  seeking  all  his 
enjoyment  within  his  own  centre.  His  muscular  strength  being 
great,  and  especially  that  of  his  fore-legs,  it  is  very  difficult 
to  unroll  him.  An  attempt  being  made  to  force  his  coil,  he  sticks 
his  fore-claws  into  the  scales  of  his  head,  and  holds  on  with  a 
death-like  grip.  At  night,  however,  or  when  all  is  quiet,  he 
vouchsafes  to  unbend  himself,  and  waddles  awkwardly  about  on 
his  short  logs,  in  pursuit  of  cockroaches,  weevils  and  spiders.* 

18. — After  many  days  of  calm  or  light  winds,  a  stitfand  fair 
breeze,  for  twenty-four  hours  past,  has  been  driving  us  rapidly 
on  our  course.  We  hope  to  sec  St.  Thomas  to-morrow. 

19. — Land  was  discovered  at  daylight ;  but  the  wind  had 
again  failed  us.  It  being  Sunday,  divine  service  was  performed, 
and  well  performed,  by  Mr.  Bushnell.  He  has  gained  the 
respect  and  regard  of  all  on  board,  by  his  amiable,  guileless 
disposition,  and  unassuming  piety. 

At  noon  the  breeze  freshened,  and  brought  us  within  ten  miles 
of  the  island,  by  the  close  of  day.  St.  Thomas  is  high,  and  pos 
sesses  strong  features.  One  landmark  is  so  singular  as  to  strike 
every  beholder  most  forcibly.  It  is  a  rock,  apparently  not  less 
than  five  hundred  feet  high,  and  shaped  like  a  light  house,  tow- 
ering  into  the  air,  about  a  third  of  the  distance  from  the  southern 
extremity  of  the  island.  We  are  now  within  a  few  miles  of  the 
equator;  and  sundry  jokes,  not  unfamiliar  to  the  nautical  Joe 

•  The  above-described  ant-cater  is  properly  the  hag-tailed  Manis,  being 
an  African  species  of  the  Pangolin.  His  scaly  armor  will  turn  a  musket- 
ball.  This  animal,  with  a  few  other  natural  and  artificial  curiosities  from 
Africa,  has  boon  deposited  in  the  National  collection,  atUched  to  the  Patent 
Office  at  Washington. 


144  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  XVIT. 

Miller,  are  passing  through  the  ship,  touching  the  appearance  of 
"  the  line." 

20. — A  heavy  tornado  struck  us  last  night.  We  were  prepar 
ed  for  it,  however,  with  nothing  on  the  ship  but  the  topsail,  clewed 
down,  and  the  fore-topmast-staysail.  The  last  mentioned  sail 
blew  away,  and  the  ship  lay  over  with  her  guns  in  the  water.  In 
five  minutes,  nevertheless,  we  were  going  before  the  wind  and 
away  from  shore. 

The  appearance  of  the  island  is  pleasant.  A  high  volcanic 
peak,  hills  covered  with  wood,  and  spots  of  ground  reminding  us 
of  the  lawns  or  pasture-lands  of  our  own  country.  On  these 
tracts  not  a  tree  or  a  bush  is  visible  for  acres  together ;  but 
whether  the  soil  was  left  naked  by  nature,  or  rendered  so  by  cul 
tivation,  is  yet  to  be  ascertained.  A  ruined  chapel  on  the  top  of 
a  hill,  a  large  mansion,  apparently  unoccupied,  on  the  shore, 
and  a  few  huts  among  the  cocoa-trees,  are  the  only  evidences 
that  men  have  ever  been  here.  Several  canoes  have  now  come 
off  to  us,  bringing  fruit  and  shells. 


CHAP,  xviii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  145 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Excursion  to  St  Anne  de  Chaves — Mode  of  drying  Coffee-*-Black  Priests — 
Madame  Domingo's  Hotel — Catering  for  the  Mess — Man  swallowed  by  a 
Shark — Letters  from  Home — Fashionable  Equipage — Arrival  at  the  Ga 
boon — King  Glass  and  Louis  Philippe — Mr.  Griswold— Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wil 
son — Character  of  the  Gaboon  People — Symptoms  of  Illness. 

May  22. — I  HAVE  just  returned  from  an  excursion  to  St.  Anne 
de  Chaves,  the  capital  of  St.  Thomas.  Leaving  the  ship,  yes 
terday,  at  9  A.  M.,  we  landed,  but  did  not  find  the  horses 
which  had  been  ordered  from  the  city.  Deeming  it  unadvisable 
to  wait,  three  of  the  party  started  on  foot,  and  two  in  the  "  gig  " 
(not  the  land-vehicle  of  that  name),  which  was  to  proceed  on  the 
same  destination.  After  walking  three  or  four  miles  along  the 
beach,  we  met  two  of  the  six  horses  expected.  These  served  to 
mount  a  pair  of  us,  while  the  third,  with  the  guide  and  boys, 
proceeded  on  foot ;  it  being  arranged  that  we  should  travel  in 
the  old-fashioned  mode  of  "  ride  and  tie."  Most  of  the  distance 
was  across  open  land,  without  a  tree  or  shrub,  but  overgrown 
with  coarse,  high  grass.  The  whole  appearance  was  that  of  a 
western  prairie,  but  without  the  grandeur  of  its  extent,  or  the 
flowers  that  attract  the  traveller,  when  wearied  with  the  im 
mensity  of  prospect.  The  soil,  like  that  of  the  cocoa-nut  groves, 
is  a  black,  deep,  fertile  loam. 

In  two  hours,  we  arrived  at  St.  Anne  de  Chaves.  The  town, 
is  spread  out  upon  the  circular  shore  of  the  bay,  nearly  half  a 
mile  in  extent,  and  is  defended  by  a  stone  fort,  situated  on  the 
extreme  point  of  the  cape.  There  are  three  or  four  hundred 
houses,  which,  with  few  exceptions,  are  small,  and  constructed 
of  wood.  A  long  stone  building  is  appropriated  as  the  residence 
of  the  governor,  and  contains  the  public  offices.  The  only  re 
markable  edifices  besides,  are  a  large  wooden  church,  looking 
very  like  a  barn,  and  a  smaller  one  of  stone.  The  streets  are 
11 


146  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvm. 


unpaved,  but  kept  remarkably  clean,  and  not  without  an  especial 
reason.  The  great,  and  almost  only,  article  of  commerce  is 
coffee,  which  is  kept  in  the  houses,  and  dried  daily  in  the  streets. 
As  soon  as  the  sun  is  up,  therefore,  servants  sweep  tho  streets, 
as  carefully  as  if  it  were  a  parlor-floor,  and  bring  out  large 
quantities  of  coffee,  which  they  spread  upon  the  ground  to  dry. 
At  night,  it  is  carried  in.  More  than  half  the  street,  at  the  pro 
per  season,  is  covered  with  coffee  yet  in  the  husk.  Tho  exports 
of  this  article  amount  annually  to  about  a  million  of  pounds, 
producing  from  seventy  to  eighty  thousand  dollars.  The  only 
whites  residing  on  the  island,  with  one  exception,  are  about  sixty 
Portuguese  ;  the  number  of  colored  inhabitants  is  estimated  at 
fifteen  thousand. 

Black  priests  are  plenty  in  the  streets,  walking  about  in  bom 
bazine  robes,  with  the  crisp  hair  shaven  from  their  crowns.  The 
Jesuits  invariably  followed  hard  upon  the  heels  of  the  early 
Portuguese  adventurers,  in  their  African  discoveries ;  but  I  am 
not  aware  that  their  efforts  to  Catholicise  the  natives  have  any 
where  produced  such  permanent  results,  as  in  this  island.  To 
be  sure,  the  religion  of  the  inhabitants  seems  to  amount  to  little 
more  than  the  practice  of  a  few  external  rites;  for  they  have 
both  the  appearance  and  character  of  dishonesty  and  treachery, 
and  are  said  to  be  addicted  to  all  sorts  of  vice.  So  far  as  the 
black  priests  possess  any  influence,  however,  it  is  believed  to  be 
used  conscientiously,  and  with  excellent  effect ;  nor,  though  pro 
voked  to  smile  at  these  queer  specimens  of  the  cloth,  could  I 
indulge  the  impulse  '.vithout  being  self-convicted  of  narrowness 
and  illiborality.  St.  Augustine,  and  other  Fathers  of  the  church, 
if  I  have  heard  aright,  were  of  the  same  sable  hue  as  the  priests 
of  St.  Anne  de  Chaves. 

The  currency  of  the  island  is  wretched.  Coppers  are  the 
sole  coin  in  r.se,  in  all  domestic  transactions,  and  pass  at  ten 
times  their  intrinsic  value.  They  are  said  to  be  introduced 
mainly  by  the  American  merchantmen,  who  do  most  of  the  trade 
with  the  island. 

The  foreign  business  is  chiefly  transacted  by  Mr.  Lippitt,  a 
Hamburgh  merchant,  at  whose  house  we  were  hospitably  re 
ceived.  He  set  his  best  fare  before  us ;  and  some  of  the  party 


CHAP,  xvin.]  R1CAN  CRUISER.  147 


not  only  ate  at  his  table,  but  slept  bom-ath  his  roof.  The  others 
took  lodgings  at  the  house  of  Madam  Domingo,  a  fat  black  lady, 
whci>.'  first  husband,  a  merchant  of  considerable  business,  had 
left  her  a  largo  mansion,  srvi-ral  -hives,  some  children,  and 
other  (1.  sirable  property.  A  young,  dandy-looking  negro  suc 
ceeded  to  the  vacant  place  in  her  house  and  heart,  and  now  does 
the  honors  of  the  establishment.  The  largest  room  hud  a  sin 
gular  aspect  of  familiarity  to  our  eyes  ;  its  walls  being  adorned 
with  prints  of  American  origin,  among  which  were  portraits  of 
all  the  Presidents  of  the  United  States,  previous  to  General  Har 
rison.  These,  perhaps,  were  the  gift  of  some  merchant-captain 
to  his  hospitable  landlady ;  or,  more  probably,  they  had  been 
hung  up  in  compliment  to  the  national  sensibilities  of  Madam 
Domingo's  most  frequent  guests.  Tawdry  mirrors  and  chande 
liers  completed  the  decoration  of  the  apartment.  A  supper  of 
coffee  and  hard-boiled  eggs,  beds  harder  than  the  eggs,  and  a 
bill  equally  difficult  of  digestion,  comprise  all  that  is  further  to 
be  said  of  the  fashionable  hotel  of  St.  Anne  de  Cliaves.  Aftei 
a  good  breakfast  with  our  Hamburgh  friend,  we  al!  embarked 
in  the  gig,  and,  spreading  our  canvass  to  the  breeze,  reached 
the  ship  in  an  hour  and  ten  minutes. 

23. — Ashore  with  the  caterer  of  the  mess,  marketing  for  sea- 
stores ;  a  difficult  task  among  a  set  of  people  who,  though  poor, 
care  little  about  making  a  profit  by  selling  what  they  have. 
Many  of  them  would  not  take  money,  requiring  in  payment 
some  article  of  clothing,  especially  shirts,  or,  as  the  next  grand 
desideratum,  trowscrs.  By  careful  research  among  the  small 
plantations  we  were  able  to  pick  up  a  few  goats,  pigs,  and  fowls, 
and  came  off  with  materials  to  keep  the  mess  in  good  humor  for 
at  least  ten  days.  None  but  sea-faring  men  can  appreciate  the 
great  truth,  that  amiability  is  an  affair  of  the  stomach,  and  that 
the  disposition  depends  upon  the  dinner. 

We  found  the  soil  very  fertile.  Groves  of  cocoa-nuts  cover 
many  acres  together.  Beneath  the  shade,  coffee  trees  were  in 
full  bearing ;  and  bananas,  plantains,  and  corn,  flourished  luxu 
riantly.  The  people  arc  all  blacks,  speak  Portuguese,  and — a 
circumstance  that  affords  the  voyager  an  agreeable  variety,  af 
ter  seeing  so  much  nakedness — wear  clothes.  Their  habitations 


US  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvm. 

are  scattered  among  the  trees.  It  is  usual  to  have  one  house  for 
rainy  weather,  for  sleeping,  and  for  storage,  and  another  as  a 
kitchen,  and  for  occupation  during  the  day.  The  first  is  close, 
the  other  has  merely  corner-posts,  supporting  a  roof  sufficiently 
light  to  make  a  shade. 

Part  of  the  day  was  spent  in  picking  up  shells  upon  the  shore. 
Occasionally,  I  unhoused  a  "soldier-crab,"  who  had  taken  up 
free  quarters  in  some  unoccupied  cone,  and  became  so  delighted 
with  its  shelter  as  never  to  move  without  dragging  it  at  his 
heels  along  the  sand. 

24. — 6  P.  M.,  a  horrid  accident  has  just  occurred.  As  the 
gig  was  coming  alongside,  under  sail,  the  tiller  broke,  and  the 
coxswain  who  was  steering,  fell  overboard.  He  was  a  good 
swimmer,  and  struck  out  for  the  ship,  not  thirty  yards  distant, 
while  the  boat  fell  off  rapidly  to  the  leeward.  In  less  than  half  a 
minute,  a  monstrous  shark  rose  to  the  surface,  seized  the  poor 
fellow  by  the  body,  and  carried  him  instantly  under.  Two 
hundred  men  were  looking  on,  without  the  power  to  afford  as 
sistance.  We  beheld  the  water  stained  with  crimson  for  many 
yards  around — but  the  victim  was  seen  no  more  !  Once  only, 
a  few  seconds  after  his  disappearance,  the  monster  rose  again 
to  the  surface,  displaying  a  length  of  well  nigh  twenty  feet,  and 
then  his  immense  tail  above  the  water,  as  if  in  triumph  and  de 
rision.  It  was  like  something  preternatural;  and  terribly  pow 
erful  he  must  have  been,  to  take  under  so  easily,  and  swallow, 
in  a  moment,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  athletic  men  in  the 
ship.  Poor  Ned  Martin  ! 

25. — Again  visited  the  town,  where  we  found  an  American 
brig,  the  Vintage  of  Salem,  Captain  Frye.  She  is  from  the 
South  Coast,  homeward  bound,  with  a  cargo  of  gum  copal. 
The  Captain  had  some  letters  for  the  squadron,  which  were  now 
eleven  months  old.  My  own  gave  an  account  of  the  President's 
visit  to  Boston,  the  Bunker  Hill  Celebration,  and  other  events  of 
that  antediluvian  date.  Epistolary  communication  is,  at  the 
best,  a  kind  of  humbug.  What  was  new  and  true,  when  writ- 
ten,  has  become  trite  and  false,  before  it  can  be  read.  It  as 
sures  of  nothing — not  even  of  the  existence  of  the  writer  ;  for 
his  hand  may  have  grown  cold,  since  the  characters  which  it 


CHAP,  xviii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  149 

traced  began  their  weary  voyage  in  quest  of  us;  and  all  of 
which  we  can  be  absolutely  certain  is,  that  many  unexpected 
events  have  happened,  and  many  expected  ones  have  failed  to 
happen,  betwixt  ihc  sealing  of  the  letter  and  the  unfolding  it 
again.  Until  the  ocean  be  converted  into  an  electric  telegraph, 
through  which  intelligence  will  thrill  in  an  instant,  there  can  be 
no  real  communication  between  the  sailor  and  his  far-off  friends. 
And  yet.  after  all,  how  pleasant  it  is  to  write  letters! — how 
much  pleasanter  to  receive  them  !  I  acknowledged  the  receipt 
of  these  musty  epistles,  by  the  same  vessel  that  conveyed  them 
to  me. 

I  have  seen  but  one  equipage  in  the  capital  of  St.  Thomas, 
but  that  was  a  sufficiently  remarkable  one ;  a  small,  three- 
wheeled  vehicle,  like  a  velocipede,  with  a  phaeton-top  to  it. 
Drawn  by  two  negroes,  and  pushed  by  three,  it  rolled  briskly  to 
the  door  of  the  church,  and  there  deposited  a  plump  and  youth 
ful  dame,  as  black  as  ebony.  From  the  deference  shown  her 
by  the  priests,  I  inferred  that  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  behold 
the  leading  belle  of  St.  Anne  de  Chaves. 

After  dining  with  Mr.  Lippitt,  we  returned  to  the  boats,  and 
got  safely  on  shipboard  before  dark.  My  impressions  of  St. 
Thomas  and  its  delightful  climate  are  highly  favorable.  A  visit 
to  an  island  has  generally  more  of  interest  and  amusement  than 
one  to  a  spot  on  the  continent,  because  the  secluded  position  of 
the  inhabitants  imparts  an  originality  and  raciness  to  their  modes 
of  life. 

27. — Got  under  way  yesterday  morning  for  the  Gaboon.  To 
day  the  wind  has  been  favorable,  and  we  are  now  at  anchor  for 
the  night,  off  the  mouth  of  the  river,  five  miles  from  land. 

28. — At  4  P.  M.,  anchored  within  three  miles  of  the  mission 
ary  establishment.  Mr.  Bushnell  took  his  leave,  respected  by 
us  all,  as  a  pious,  unpretending,  sensible,  and  amiable  man. 

29. — Ashore.  We  found  our  friends  well,  and  glad  to  see 
us.  They  are  comfortably  situated  in  large  houses,  made  of 
bamboos,  and  thatched  with  the  bamboo-leaves  sewed  together. 
These  present  an  airy,  cool,  and  light  appearance,  highly  suita 
ble  to  a  tropical  region,  and  yet  are  impervious  to  rain. 

We  visited  the   house  of  King  Glass,  where  several  of  the 


150  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvni. 

chiefs  assembled  to  talk  a  palaver.  They  are  apprehensive  of 
difficulties  with  the  French,  and  wish  the  English  and  Ameri 
cans  to  interpose.  According  to  their  story,  the  commandant  of 
a  French  fort,  three  miles  distant,  had  attempted,  a  short  time 
ago,  to  procure  a  cession  of  their  territory.  This  they  constantly 
refused,  declaring  their  intention  to  keep  the  country  open  for 
trade  with  all  nations,  and  allow  exclusive  advantages  to  none. 
After  several  trials,  the  commandant  apparently  relinquished 
his  purpose.  A  French  merchant-captain  now  appeared,  who 
ingratiated  himself  into  the  favor  of  the  simple  King  Glass,  in 
vited  him  to  a  supper,  and  made  his  majesty  and  the  head-man 
drunk.  While  in  this  condition,  he  procured  the  signatures  of 
the  King  and  two  or  three  chiefs  to  a  paper,  which  he  declared 
to  be  merely  a  declaration  of  friendship  towards  the  French,  but 
which  proved  to  be  a  cession  of  certain  rights  of  jurisdiction. 
Next  morning,  the  French  fired  a  salute  of  twenty-one  guns  in 
honor  of  the  treaty  between  Louis  Philippe  and  King  Glass,  and 
sent  presents  which  the  natives  refused  to  receive.  They  now 
apprehend  a  forcible  seizure  of  their  territory  by  the  French, 
and  desire  our  interposition,  as  calculated  to  prevent  such  a 
national  calamity.  Our  captain,  however,  declined  to  interfere, 
or  to  express  any  opinion  in  the  premises,  on  the  ground  that  it 
was  not  his  province  to  judge  of  such  matters  abroad,  unless  the 
interests  of  Americans  were  involved. 

The  missionaries  have  perhaps  some  agency  in  this  movement. 
They  see  the  probability  that  the  Catholic  priests  will  follow 
them  to  the  Gaboon,  and  subvert  their  influence  with  the  natives. 

31. — In  the  morning  I  visited  Mr.  Griswold's  place,  about  two 
miles  from  Baracca,  the  residence  of  Mr.  Wilson.  The  former 
establishment  was  commenced  only  eight  months  ago ;  and 
already  there  are  two  buildings  finished,  and  two  more  nearly 
so,  all  of  bamboo.  The  ground  is  more  fertile  than  that  occu 
pied  by  Mr.  Wilson,  and  has  been  brought  thus  seasonably  into 
a  good  state  of  cultivation.  Mr.  Griswold  is  a  Vermonter,  a 
practical  farmer,  and  an  energetic  man,  and  doubtless  turns  his 
agricultural  experience  to  good  account,  great  as  is  the  differ 
ence  between  the  bleak  hills  of  New  England,  and  this  equate- 


CHAP,  xvin.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  151 

rial  region.  His  lady,  an  interesting  woman,  is  just  recovering 
from  f.  ver. 

Aft<  r  an  agreeable,  visit,  wo  returned  to  the  ship,  accom- 
panii  d  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Griswold,  an-1  there  fiuind  Mr.  Wilson 
und  lady,  and  Mr.  James  and  his  daughter.  They  all  dined  and 
spent  the  day  on  board.  Mr.  Wilson  is  well  known  in  America 
by  reputation,  and  is  one  of  the  most  able  and  judicious  amon^ 
the  three  hundred  missionaries,  whom  the  American  Hoard 
sends  forth  throughout  the  world.  Here  at  Gaboon,  he  preaches 
to  the  natives  in  their  own  language,  which  he  represents  as 
being  very  soft,  and  easy  of  acquirement.  The  people  frequent 
divine,  services  with  great  regularity,  and  arc  at  least  attentive 
listeners,  if  not  edified  by  what  they  hear.  Mrs.  Wilson  is  a 
lady  of  remarkable  zeal  and  energy.  Reared  in  luxury,  in  a 
Southern  city,  she  liberated  her  slaves,  gave  up  a  handsome 
fortune  to  the  uses  of  missions,  and  devoted  herself  to  the  same 
great  cause,  in  that  region  of  the  earth  where  her  faith  and 
fortitude  were  likely  to  be  most  severely  tried.  It  is  now  six 
years  since  she  came  to  Africa;  and  she  has  never  faltered  for 
a  moment.  Having  had  the  good  fortune,  on  a  former  cruise,  to 
make  the  acquaintance  of  Mrs.  Wilson,  at  Cape  Pal  mas,  I  was 
happy  to  renew  it  here.  I  have  seldom  met  with  a  person  so 
well  fitted  to  adorn  society,  and  never  with  one  in  whose  high 
motives  of  action  and  genuine  piety  I  had  more  confidence. 

The  natives  at  the  Gaboon,  to  whom  these  excellent  people 
are  sacrificing  themselves,  are  said  to  present  more  favorable 
points  of  character  than  those  in  most  other  parts  of  Africa. 
They  are  mild  in  their  manners,  friendly  to  Europeans  and 
Americans,  and  disposed  to  imitate  them  in  dress  and  customs. 
They  own  many  slaves  among  themselves,  but  treat  them  with 
singular  gentleness,  and  never  sell  them  to  foreigners.  They 
ry  indolent,  and  make  no  adequate  improvement  of  their 
advantages  for  agriculture  and  trade.  Their  country  is  excel 
lent  for  grazing,  and  the  cattle  of  the  best  kind  ;  but  they  take 
so  little  forethought  as  to  sell  even  the  last  cow,  should  a  pur- 
chas^r  offer.  Consequently,  there  are  hardly  more  than  thirty 
cottle  left  in  a  tract  of  country  capable,  in  its  present  state,  of 
sustaining  a  thousand. 


152  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xvin. 

King  Glass  is  an  old  man,  much  inclined  to  drink,  yet  more 
regular  than  any  of  his  subjects  in  attendance  at  church.  Toko, 
a  headman,  is  very  shrewd  and  intelligent,  and  highly  spoken 
of  by  Mr.  Wilson,  in  reference  to  his  moral  qualities.  Will 
Glass,  nephew  to  the  King,  is  blessed  with  a  couple  of  dozen 
wives,  and  seldom  moves  without  a  train  of  five  or  six  of  them 
in  attendance.  He  paid  a  visit  to  our  ship  in  a  full-dress  Eng 
lish  uniform,  said  to  have  cost  three  hundred  dollars.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  river  lives  King  Will,  a  great  man,  and  with 
the  reputation  of  a  polished  gentleman.  The  slave-trade  is 
carried  on  in  this  King's  dominions ;  and,  while  I  write,  a 
Spanish  slaver  lies  at  anchor  off  his  town,  waiting  for  her  hu 
man  cargo. 

June  1. — Got  under  way,  and  went  down  the  river  about 
three  miles,  when,  the  wind  failing,  we  anchored.  At  3  P.  M., 
we  started  again,  and  stood  out  to  sea.  Mr.  Wilson  accom 
panied  us  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  there  left  us,  bearing 
back  our  hearty  good  wishes  for  his  personal  prosperity  and  that 
of  the  mission. 

2. — At  12,  meridian,  we  have  made  the  run  to  the  island  of 
St.  Thomas,  and  are  now  about  fifteen  miles  to  «the  northward 
of  it. 

3. — The  wind  is  still  sufficiently  fresh  and  fair  to  enable  us 
to  make  seven  knots  westing  j  the  great  desideratum.  Four 
months  we  have  been  running  away  from  our  letters ;  and  now 
we  go  to  meet  them.  Blow,  breezes,  blow,  and  waft  us  swiftly 
onward ! 

4. — A  continuance  of  favorable  winds.  I  am  not  well  to-day. 
Slight  headache,  and  heaviness  of  feeling — no  great  matter — but 
these  are  ominous  symptoms,  on  the  coast  of  Africa. 

5. — One  year  since  we  left  America  ;  a  year  not  without  inci 
dent  and  interest.  We  are  still  on  the  first  parallel  of  north 
latitude,  and  going  nine.  I  am  under  the  surgeon's  hands,  ap 
prehending  a  fever,  but  hoping  to  throw  it  off. 

6. — We  have  made  two  hundred  and  twenty  miles  within  the 
last  twenty-four  hours ;  and  still  the  breeze  does  not  slacken. 
Much  better  in  health.  Bless  the  man  who  first  invented  Doc 
tors! 


CHAP  xir.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  1*3 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Recovery  from  Fever— Projected  Independence  of  Liberia— Remarks  on 
Climate  and  Health — Peril  from  Breakers — African  Arts — Departure  for 
the  Cape  de  Verds — Man  Overboard. 

June  18. — A  WEARY  blank  !  Since  my  last  date,  I  have  had 
the  coast  fever,  caught  by  sleeping  on  shore,  at  St.  Anne  de 
Chaves,  and  am  now  just  recovering  my  physical  force.  My 
sickness  was  accompanied  with  little  bodily  pain,  but  with  great 
prostration  of  strength.  Able  medical  advice,  and  kind  and 
judicious  treatment,  have  brought  me  up  a  little ;  and,  with  the 
help  of  God,  I  may  again  call  myself  well,  in  a  week  or  two 
more.  But  there  is  great  danger  of  relapses,  caution  ! 

We  are  now  at  Monrovia,  having  made  the  passage  from  the 
river  Gaboon,  hitherward,  in  seven  days  and  fourteen  hours, 
from  anchorage  to  anchorage — an  unprecedented  run !  The 
Macedonian  has  been  here,  and  is  gone. 

19. — Still  better  this  morning.  The  sky  looks  brighter  than 
before ;  the  woods  seem  greener,  and  cast  a  lovelier  shade  ;  the 
surf  breaks  more  gracefully  along  the  beach  ;  and  the  natives, 
paddling  their  canoes  around  the  ship,  look  more  human — more 
like  brethren.  Returning  health  gives  a  more  beautiful  aspect 
to  all  things.  It  is  almost  worth  while  to  have  been  brought  so 
low  by  sickness,  for  the  sake  of  the  freshness  of  body  and  spirit, 
the  renewed  youth,  the  tenderer  susceptibility  to  all  good  im 
pressions,  which  make  my  present  consciousness  so  delightful. 
It  is  like  being  new-created,  and  placed  in  a  new  world.  Life, 
to  the  convalescent,  looks  as  fair  and  promising  as  if  he  had 
never  tried  it,  and  been  weary  of  it. 

20. — Still  improving.  The  fine  weather  of  yesterday  and 
to-day  invigorates  and  cheers  me.  Lieutenant  Governor  Bene 
dict  and  some  friends  are  expected  on  board,  by  special  invita- 


154  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xix. 

tion.  We  pay  much  attention  to  the  persons  in  authority  here ; 
it  being  the  policy  of  our  government  to  befriend  and  counte 
nance  the  colonies.  I  hear  that  a  serious  effort  is  now  in  pro 
gress,  at  this  place,  to  declare  Liberia  independent  of  the  Colo 
nization  Society,  and  set  up  a  republic.  Lieutenant  Gover 
nor  Benedict  and  Mr.  Teage  are  said  to  be  at  the  head  of  the 
movement.  Both  are  men  of  talent.  Mr.  Teage  formerly 
edited  the  Liberia  Herald,  and  preached  in  the  Baptist  Church, 
where  his  services  were  most  emphatically  gratuitous ;  for  he 
not  only  ministered  without  a  stipend,  but  supplied  a  place  of 
worship — the  sacred  edifice  being  his  own  private  property. 
He  is  certainly  one  of  the  ablest,  if  not  the  very  ablest,  writer 
and  preacher  in  the  colony.  The  project  above-mentioned 
seems  to  me  an  unwise  one  ;  but  benefits,  which  do  not  now 
appear,  may  possibly  be  obtained  by  sundering  the  relations  be 
tween  the  settlement  and  the  parent  society.  Much  is  expected 
from  England.  That  nation,  however,  can  never  feel  a  mater 
nal  interest  in  the  colony,  nor  will  do  for  it  what  the  Society  has 
all  along  done,  and  continues  to  do. 

21. — Still  stronger.  I  am  now  able  to  resume  my  place  at  the 
mess-table.  But  care  is  necessary  to  avoid  a  relapse.  It  is  one 
of  the  worst  features  of  this  disease,  that  it  appears  to  continue 
in  the  system  for  many  jjnonths  after  the  patient's  recovery,  and 
to  renew  its  attacks  upon  the  slightest  exposure.  Most  persons 
find  it  necessary  to  leave  the  coast,  in  order  to  the  re-establish 
ment  of  their  health.  I  am  not  the  only  convalescent  on  board 
the  ship.  Mr.  Ewal,  a  young  Danish  supercargo,  is  here  for  a 
few  days,  to  try  the  benefit  of  a  change  of  air,  and  enjoy  the 
attendance  of  a  regular  physician.  He  has  been  on  shore  above 
a  month,  sick  of  the  fever,  under  the  charge  of  Dr.  Prout,  a 
colored  practitioner.  Our  captain  pitied  his  condition,  invited  him 
on  board,  and,  with  his  uniform  kindness,  took  him  into  the 
cabin,  where,  in  only  three  days,  he  has  already  improved 
wonderfully. 

27. — A  sunny  day,  after  three  or  four  dull  and  rainy  ones. 
My  health  is  now  so  far  restored,  that  I  shall  insert  no  more 
bulletins.  I  owe  much  to  the  care  of  our  surgeon,  who  is  very 
able  and  attentive,  and  has  seen  much  yellow- fever  practice,  in 


CHAP,  xix.]  AFRICAN  CRUISKK. 


the   West  Indies.     Tin*   assisjaiit-surgi  on   is  ul><>   an  ev<  llrnt 
and  an  untiring  officer.     My  f  v,-r.  like  the  Other  ctts.  s  ulm-h 
have  happened  on  board,  was  of  a  bilious  kind.     All  foreigners 
make   tlirins.  Ivcs   liable  to  it,  either   in  its  milder  or  more  ag 
gravated  forms,  by  sleeping  even  a  single  night  on  shore  ;  but, 
according  to  Dr.  Hall,  a  physician  of  great  experience  on  tlu- 
coast,  health  may  be  preserved  for  an  indefinite  period,  by  the 
simple  precaution  of  sleeping   always  on  ship-board,  at  a  very 
moderate  distance  from  land.    This  does  not  altogether  coincide 
with  my  own  observations.     It  is  true,  that  during  eight  or  t<  n 
months  after  the  arrival  of  a  ship  y  pon  the  coast,  the  health  of 
her  crew  will  probably  continue  good,  if  they  neither  sleep  on 
shore  nor  ascend  the  rivers.     But,  if  exposed  for  a  longer  period 
to  the  enervating  influences  of  the  unceasing  heat,  JMN!  the  fre 
quent  penetrating  rains,  it  may  reasonably  be  expect*  d  that  any 
ship's  company  will  be  broken  down,  even  though  not  a  single 
death  may  occur.     In  our   own   ship,  we    have    recently  had 
many  cases  of  fever,  where  the  patients  have  neither  slept  on 
shore,  nor   been    exposed   to   the    peculiar    malaria  of  rivers. 
Doubtless,  however,  the  fever  of  the  country,  wl.«-r    all  due  pre 
cautions  have  been  used,  will  be  much  lighter  on  board,  than  on 
shore.     But  the  patients  will  be  liable  to  frequent  relapses,  and 
a  complete  recovery  will  be  almost  out  of  the  question,  without 
a  change  of  climate.     It  is  another  objection  to  the  long  con- 
tinuance  of  ships  on  this  station,  that  all  wounds  or  injuries, 
however   slight,    have    a    tendency   to   become    obstinate    and 
dangerous  sores,  which  incapacitate  these    afflicted  from    per- 
forming  any  duty. 

Besides  the  coast  fever  (which,  Dr.  Hall  remarks,  he  has 
never  known  an  emigrant  completely  to  escape),  there  is  an  in- 
tormittcnt  fever,  against  which  no  aeclimation  will  protect  the 
colonist,  any  more  than  against  the  bilious  fever  of  America. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  James,  a  colored  missionary,  told  me,  that,  ior 
seven  years,  he  had  been  accustomed  to  sutler  attacks  of  fever, 
once  in  every  four  or  five  weeks. 

The  natives  of  this  country  are  as  healthy  as  any  people  under 
Heaven.  A  benignant  Providence  has  adapted  the  climate,  soil, 
and  productions,  of  every  part  of  the  globe  to  the  constitutions 


156  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xrx. 

of  those  races  of  mankind  which  it  has  placed  there.  Nor  is 
Africa  an  exception.  In  spite  of  her  desolating  wars,  and  the 
immense  drain  of  her  children  through  the  slave  trade  which 
for  centuries  has  checked  the  increase  of  population,  she  is 
still  a  populous  country.  The  aboriginal  natives,  unless  killed 
through  superstition  or  cruelty,  survive  to  an  almost  patriarchal 
longevity.  The  colored  people  of  America,  or  any  other  part 
of  the  world,  may  be  regarded  as  borrowed  from  Africa,  and 
inheriting  a  natural  adaptation  to  her  soil  and  climate.  Such 
emigrants,  therefore,  may  be  expected  to  suffer  less  than. the 
whites,  in  the  process  of  acclimation,  and  may,  in  due  time,  find 
their  new  residence  more  genial  to  their  constitutions,  than  those 
which  they  have  quitted.  At  all  events,  their  children  will  pro 
bably  flourish  here,  and  attain  a  fulness  of  physical,  and  per 
haps  moral  and  intellectual  perfection,  which  the  colored  race 
has  fallen  short  of,  in  other  regions. 

As  the  country  becomes  cleared  and  cultivated,  the  mortality 
of  the  emigrants  decreases.  It  is  asserted  to  be  one-third  less, 
at  this  period,  than  it  was  ten  years  ago.  The  statistic^  of  Cape 
Palmas  show  the  population  to  be  on  the  increase,  independently 
of  immigration.  Dr.  Hall  affirmed  (but,  I  should  imagine,  with 
unusual  latitude  of  expression)  that,  in  the  sickliest  season  ever 
known  at  Cape  Palmas,  the  rate  of  mortality  was  lower  than  that 
of  the  free  colored  population  in  Baltimore,  in  an  ordinary 
year.  In  another  generation,  this  may  no  doubt  be  said  with 
perfect  accuracy. 

28. — Last  night,  the  Porpoise  came  in,  and  anchored  inside 
of  us.  As  we  lay  unusually  near  the  shore,  and  as  the  wind 
was  rising,  with  a  heavy  swell,  the  brig  found  herself,  this 
morning,  in  a  dangerous  position.  She  sent  us  a  boat,  to  say 
that  she  was  dragging  her  anchor,  and  to  ask  for  a  hawser. 
This  was  immediately  supplied ;  but,  before  we  could  give  her 
the  end  of  it,  she  had  drifted  into  the  breakers.  She  hoisted  her 
colors,  union  down,  and  was  momentarily  expected  to  strike. 
At  this  instant,  a  tremendous  roller  swamped  one  of  our  boats, 
and  left  the  men  swimming  for  their  lives.  The  other  boats  went 
to  their  assistance,  and  providentially  succeeded  in  rescuing 
them  all.  Meantime,  the  brig  made  sail,  and,  by  the  help  of 


CHAP,  xiv]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  157 

our  hawsrr,  was    able  to  keep  her  wind,  and  got  out  to  sea, 
leaving  both  her  anchors  behind. 

Soon  after  the  Porpoise  was  saved,  we  found  ourselves  like 
wise  in  equal  peril.  The  breakers  began  to  whiten  about  the 
ship.  The  wind  was  not  violent,  but  the  swell  was  terrible ; 
and  the  long  rollers  filled  the  bay,  breaking  in  forty  feet  of 
water,  and  covering  the  sea  with  foam.  Our  anchors  held 
tolerably  well ;  but  we  dragged  slowly,  until,  from  seven  fathoms, 
we  had  shoaled  our  water  to  four  and  a  half.  A  council  of  the 
officers  being  called,  it  was  determined  to  get  under  way.  A 
hawser  and  stream-anchor  being  sent  out,  in  order  to  bring  the 
ship's  head  in  the  proper  direction  for  making  sail,  the  cables 
were  slipped.  It  was  a  moment  of  intense  interest;  for,  had  the 
rollers  or  the  wind  inclined  the  ship  from  her  proper  course,  we 
must  inevitably  have  been  lost ;  but  «he  stood  out  beautifully, 
and  soon  left  all  peril  astern. 

There  were  still  three  merchant-vessels  at  anchor ;  the 
American  barque  Reaper,  a  Bremen  brig,  and  a  Hamburg 
schooner.  While  we  had  our  own  danger  to  encounter,  we 
thought  the  less  of  our  fel low-sufferers ;  but,  after  our  escape, 
it  was  painful  to  think  of  leaving  them  in  jeopardy.  To  the 
American  barque  (which  lay  inshore  of  us,  with  her  colors 
union  down)  we  sent  a  boat,  with  sixteen  Kroomen,  by  whose 
assistance  she  was  saved.  The  Bremen  brig  had  her  colors  at 
half-mast,  appealing  to  us  for  aid.  She  was  nearer  to  the  shore 
than  the  other  vessels,  and  lay  in  the  midst  of  the  breakers,  which 
frequently  covered  her  from  stem  to  stern.  Her  escape  seemed 
impossible  ;  and  her  cargo,  valued  at  thirty  thousand  dollars, 
would  have  been  considered  a  dear  purchase  at  a  thirtieth  of 
that  sum.  We  gave  her  all  the  help  in  our  power,  and  not 
without  effect ;  but  her  salvation,  under  Providence,  was  owing 
to  a  strong  tide,  which  was  setting  out  of  the  river,  and  counter 
acted  the  influence  of  wind  and  swell.  Finally,  we  had  the 
satisfaction  to  see  all  the  vessels,  one  after  another,  come 
off  safe. 

During  this  scene,  there  was  great  commotion  on  shore,  the 
people  evidently  expecting  one  or  all  of  us  to  be  lost.  When 


158  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xix. 

the  Porpoise  got  off,  the  Kroomen  on  the  beach  raised  a  great 
shout  of  joy. 

29. — There  is  a  very  heavy  sea  this  morning,  with  no  prospect 
of  its  immediately  subsiding.  The  Kroomen  say  that  it  will 
last  four  days  from  its  commencement.  It  must  have  been 
terrific  in  the  bay,  last  night.  All  the  vessels  are  in  sight, 
keeping  off  till  the  swell  abates.  We  have  left  two  boats  behind 
us,  and  two  anchors,  besides  the  stream-anchor.  There  has 
been  nothing  like  this  storm,  since  our  arrival  on  the  coast. 

July  2. — Again  at  anchor. 

As  we  shall  soon  have  done  with  Liberia,  I  must  not  forget  to 
insert,  among  the  motley  records  of  this  journal,  some  account 
of  its  ants.  The  immense  number  of  these  insects,  which  infest 
every  part  of  the  land,  is  a  remarkable  provision  in  the  economy 
of  Africa,  as  well  as  of.  other  tropical  countries.  Though  very 
destructive  to  houses,  fences,  and  other  articles  of  value,  their 
ravages  are  far  more  than  repaid  by  the  benefits  bestowed ;  for 
they  act  as  scavengers  in  removing  the  great  quantity  of  decay 
ing  vegetable  matter,  which  would  otherwise  make  the  atmosphere 
intolerable.  They  perform  their  office  both  within  doors  and 
without.  Frequently,  the  "drivers,"  as  they  are  called,  enter 
houses  in  myriads,  and,  penetrating  to  the  minutest  recesses, 
destroy  everything  that  their  omnivorous  appetite  can  render 
eatable.  Whatever  has  the  principle  of  decay  in  it,  is  got  rid 
of  at  once.  All  vermin  meet  their  fate  from  these  destroyers. 
Food,  clothing,  necessaries,  superfluities,  mere  trash,  and  valu 
able  property,  are  alike  in  their  regard,  and  equally  acceptable 
to  their  digestive  powers.  They  would  devour  this  journal  with 
as  little  compunction  as  so  much  blank  paper — and  a  sermon  as 
readily  as  the  journal — nor  would  either  meal  lie  heavy  on  their 
stomachs.  They  float  on  your  coffee,  and  crawl  about  your 
plate,  and  accompany  the  victuals  to  your  mouth. 

The  ants  have  a  Queen,  whom  the  colonists  call  Bugga-Bug. 
Her  subjects  are  divided  into  three  classes;  the  Laborers,  who 
do  nothing  but  work — the  Soldiers,  who  do  nothing  but  fight — and 
the  Gentry,  who  neither  work  nor  fight,  but  spend  their  lives  in 
the  pleasant  duly  of  continuing  their  species.  The  habitations 
of  these  insects,  as  specimens  of  mechanical  ingenuity,  are  far 


CHAP,  xix  1  AFRICAN  CRUISER. 


superior   to  the   houses  of  the   natives,  and  are   really  the  finest 
works  of  architecture  to  be  met  with  on  the  African  coast.     In 
height,  thcs^  edifices  vary  from  four  to   fifteen   or  twenty  feet, 
and  are   sometimes  ten  or  twelve  feet   in  diameter  at  the  base. 
They  contain  apartments  for  magazines,  for  nurseries,  and  for 
all  other  domestic,  social,  and  public  purpose  s,  communicating 
with  one  another,  and  with  the  e\t«  rior,  by  innumerable  galleries 
and    passages.     The   clay,   which   forms   the    material   of  the 
buildings,    is    r  11  lercd   very  compact,  by  a  glutinous  matter, 
mixed  with  earth  ;  and  all  the  passages,  many  of  which  extend 
great  distances  under  ground,  are  plastered  with  the  same  kind 
of  stucco.     Captain  Tuckcy,  in  his  expedition  to  the  river  Zaire, 
discovered  ant-hills  composed  of  similar  materials  to  tiie  above, 
but  which,  in  shape,  precisely  resembled  gigantic  toad-stools,  as 
high  as  a  one-story  house.      In  this  part  of  Africa,  they  have 
the  form  of  a  mound.     At  the  present  day,  when  the  community. 
principle  is  attracting  so  much   attention,  it  would   seem  to   bo 
seriously  worth  while  for  the  Fourierites  to  observe  both   the 
social  economy  and  the  modes  of  architecture  of  these  African 
ants.     Providence   may,  if  it  see  fit,  make  the  instincts  of  the 
lower  orders  of  creation  a  medium  of  divine  revelations  to  the 
human  race:  and,  at  all  events,  the  aforesaid  Fourierites  might 
stumble  upon  hints,  in  an  ant-hill,  for  the  convenient  arrangement 
of  those  edifices,  which,  if  I  mistake  not,  they  have  christened 
Phalanxteries. 

g.  _  At  11  A.  M.,  got  under  way  for  the  Cape  de  Vcrds. 
10.  —  Calm  in  the  morning,  and  predictions  of  a  long  passage. 
At  noon,  sprung  up  a  ten-knot  breeze  ;  and  are  sanguine  of 
making  a  short  run.  In  the  evening,  at  the  tea  table,  we  were 
talking  of  tho  delights  of  Saratoga,  at  this  season,  and  contrasting 
the  con<l:'i"n  of  the  fortunate  visitors  to  .that  fashionable  resort, 
with  that  of  the  sallow,  debilitated,  discontented  cruisers  on  the 
African  station.  In  the  midst  of  the  conversation,  the  cry  of  "  man 
overboard,"  brought  us  all  on  deck  with  a  rush.  There  was 
not  much  sea,  though  we  wore  going  seven  knots.  The  man 
kept  his  head  well  above  water,  and  swam  steadily  toward  tho 
life-buoy,  V.!M  h  fluted  at  a  short  distance  from  him  —  his  only 
hope  —  while  the  wide  Atlantic  was  yawning  around  him,  eager 


160  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP,  xix, 

for  his  destruction.  We  watched  him  anxiously,  until  he  seized 
it,  and  then  thought  of  sharks.  We  were  too  far  at  sea,  how- 
ever,  for  many  of  these  monsters  to  be  in  attendance.  In  a  few 
moments  a  boat  picked  up  man  and  buoy,  and  the  ship  was  on 
her  course  again. 

21. — Anchored  at  Porto  Praya. 

The  season  of  journalizing,  to  any  good  purpose,  is  over. 
Scenes  and  objects  in  this  region  have  been  so  often  presented 
to  my  eyes,  that  they  now  fail  to  make  the  vivid  impressions 
which  could  alone  enable  me  (were  that  ever  possible)  to  weave 
them  into  a  lively  narrative  of  my  adventures.  My  entries, 
therefore,  for  the  rest  of  the  cruise,  are  likely  to  be  "  few,  and 
far  between." 


CHAP,  xx.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  101 


CHAPTER   XX 

Glimpses  of  the  bottom  of  the  Sea — The  Gar-Fish — The  Booby  and  the 
Mullet — Improvement  of  Liberia — Its  Prospects — Higher  social  position 
of  its  Inhabitants — Intercourse  between  the  White  and  Colored  Races — 
A  Night  on  Shore — Farewell  to  Liberia. — Reminiscence  of  Robinson 
Crusoe. 

September  1. — AT  Porto  Grande. 

To-day,  as  for  many  previous  days,  the  water  has  been  beau 
tifully  clear.  The  massive  anchor  and  the  links  of  the  chain- 
cable,  which  lay  along  the  bottom,  were  distinctly  visible  upon 
the  sand,  full  fifty  feet  below.  Hundreds  of  fish — the  grouper, 
the  red  snapper,  *the  noble  baracouta,  the  mullet,  and  many 
others,  unknown  to  northern  seas — played  round  the  ship,  occa 
sionally  rising  to  seize  some  floating  food,  that  perchance  had 
been  thrown  overboard.  With  my  waking  eye,  I  beheld  the 
bottom  of  the  sea  as  plainly  as  Clarence  saw  it  in  his  dream ; 
although,  indeed,  here  were  few  of  the  splendid  and  terrible 
images  that  were  revealed  to  him : — 

"A  thousand  fearful  wrecks; 
A  thousand  men  that  fishes  gnawed  upon  ; 
Wedges  of  gold,  great  anchors,  heaps  of  pearl, 
Inestimable  stones,  unvalued  jewels." 

Nevertheless,  it  was  a  sight  that  seemed  to  admit  me  deeper 
into  the  liquid  element  than  I  had  ever  been  before.  Now  and 
then  came  the  long,  slender  gar-fish,  and,  with  his  sword-like 
beak,  struck  some  unhappy  fish  which  tempted  his  voracity.  I 
watched  the  manoeuvres  of  the  destroyer  and  his  victims,  with 
no  little  interest.  The  fish  (which,  in  the  two  instances  par 
ticularly  observed,  was  the  mullet)  came  instantly  to  the  sur 
face,  on  being  struck,  and  sprang  far  out  of  water.  He  swam 
on  his  side  with  a  circular  motion,  keeping  his  head  above  the 
12 


162  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xx. 

surface.  From  time  to  time  he  leaped  into  the  air,  spasmodi 
cally,  and  in  a  fit  of  painful  agony ;  for  it  could  not  be  from 
alarm,  as  the  foe  was  nowhere  visible.  Gradually,  his  strength 
failed,  and  his  efforts  became  feebler,  and  still  more  feeble. 

The  fates  of  the  two  mullets  were  different.  One  received  a 
second  blow  from  the  inexorable  gar-fish,  which,  for  a  moment, 
increased  his  agony  and  his  exertions.  He  then  lay  motionless 
upon  the  surface,  at  rest  from  all  trouble.  The  conqueror  came 
a  third  time,  seized  his  prey,  and  swam  swiftly  out  of  sight. 

The  other  mullet,  which  rose  half  an  hour  afterwards,  swam 
closer  to  the  ship  than  his  predecessor,  and  received  no  second 
blow.  While  the  poor  fellow  was  yet  in  the  death-struggle, 
came  two  great  sable  birds,  with  bills,  wings,  and  legs,  like 
those  of  the  heron.  Flapping  their  dark  wings  in  the  air,  they 
circled  round,  and  repeatedly  swooped  almost  upon  the  dying 
fish.  But  he  was  not  doomed  to  be  their  victim.  Presently, 
with  his  brown  back,  white  breast,  and  pink  bill,  came  flapping 
along  a  booby,  and,  without  a  moment's  hesitation,  stooped  upon 
the  mullet,  and  appeared  to  swallow  him  in  the  twinkling  of  an 
eye.  The  fish  was  at  least  six  inches  in  length,  and  the  bird 
not  twice  as  much.  How  so  liberal  a  morsel  could  be  so 
quickly  disposed  of,  was  a  marvel  to  a  dozen  idlers,  who  had 
been  curiously  observing  this  game  of  life  and  death  to  one 
party,  and  a  dinner  to  the  other.  Certainly,  the  booby  carried 
off  the  fish.  Borne  down  by  the  weight  of  his  spoil,  the  feathered 
gormandizer  alighted  on  the  water — rested  himself  for  a  mo 
ment — rose  again,  and  re-alighted — and  in  this  manner,  with 
many  such  intervals  of  repose,  made  his  way  to  the  shore. 

25. — At  1  P.  M.,  sailed  for  the  Coast,  in  company  with  the 
Truxton. 

26. — Anchored  off  Cape  Mesurado. 

It  is  now  fourteen  months  since  our  ship  first  visited  Monrovia. 
Within  that  period  there  has  been  a  very  perceptible  improve 
ment  in  its  condition.  The  houses  are  in  better  repair;  the 
gardens  under  superior  cultivation.  There  is  an  abundant 
supply  of  cattle,  which  have  been  purchased  from  the  natives. 
More  merchant-vessels  now  make  this  their  port,  bringing  goods 
hither,  and  creating  a  market  for  the  commodities,  live  stock, 


CHAP,  xx.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  163 


and  vegetables,  of  the  colonists.  An  increased  amount  of  money 
is  in  circulation ;  and  the  inhabitants  find  that  they  can  dispose 
of  the  products  of  their  industry  for  something  better  than  the 
cloth  and  tobacco,  which  they  were  formerly  obliged  to  take  in 
payment.  The  squadron  of  United  States  men-of-war,  if  it  do 
no  other  good,  will  at  least  have  an  essential  share  in  promoting 
the  prosperity  of  Liberia. 

After  having  seen  much,  and  reflected  upon  the  subject  even 
to  weariness,  I  write  down  my  opinion,  that  Liberia  is  firmly 
planted,  and  is  destined  to  increase  and  prosper.  This  it  will 
do,  though  all  further  support  from  the  United  States  be  discon 
tinued.  A  large  part  of  the  present  population,  it  is  true,  are 
ignorant,  and  incompetent  to  place  a  just  estimate  on  freedom, 
or  even  to  comprehend  what  freedom  really  is.  But  they  are 
generally  improving  in  this  respect ;  and  there  is  already  a 
sufficient  intermixture  of  intelligent,  enterprising  and  sagacious 
men,  to  give  the  proper  tone  to  the  colony,  and  insure  its  ulti 
mate  success.  The  great  hope,  however,  is  in  the  generation 
that  will  follow  these  original  emigrants.  Education  is  univer 
sally  diffused  among  the  children  ;  and  its  advantages,  now  be- 
ginning  to  be  very  manifest,  will,  in  a  few  years,  place  the  desti- 
nies  of  this  great  enterprise  in  the  hands  of  men  born  and  bred 
in  Africa.  Then,  and  not  till  then,  will  the  experiment  of  Afri 
can  colonization,  and  of  the  ability  of  the  colonists  for  self-support 
and  self-government,  have  been  fairly  tried.  My  belief  is  firm 
in  a  favorable  result. 

Meantime,  it  would  be  wiser  in  the  Colonization  Society,  and 
its  more  zealous  members,  to  moderate  their  tone,  and  speak  less 
strongly  as  to  the  advantages  held  out  by  Liberia.  Unques- 
tionably,  it  is  a  better  country  than  America,  for  the  colored 
race.  But  they  will  find  it  very  far  from  a  paradise.  Men, 
who  expect  to  become  independent  and  respectable,  can  only 
achieve  their  object  here  on  the  same  terms  as  everywhere  else. 
They  must  cultivate  their  minds,  be  willing  to  exert  themselves, 
and  not  look  for  a  too  easy  or  too  rapid  rise  of  fortune.  One 
thing  is  certain.  People  of  color  have  here  their  fair  position  in 
the  comparative  scale  of  mankind.  The  white  man,  who  visits 
Liberia,  be  he  of  what  rank  he  may,  and  however  imbued  with 


104  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xx. 


the  prejudice  of  hue,  associates  with  the  colonists  on  terms  of 
equality.  This  would  be  impossible  (speaking  not  of  individuals, 
but  of  the  general  intercourse  between  the  two  races)  in  the 
United  States.  The  colonist  feels  his  advantage  in  this  respect, 
and  reckons  it  of  greater  weight  in  the  balance  than  all  the 
hardships  to  which  he  is  obliged  to  submit,  in  an  unwonted  cli 
mate  and  a  strange  country.  He  is  redeemed  from  ages  of 
degradation,  and  rises  to  the  erect  stature  of  humanity.  On 
this  soil,  sun-parched  though  it  be,  he  gives  the  laws ;  and  the 
white  man  must  obey  them.  In  this  point  of  view — as  restoring 
to  him  his  long-lost  birthright  of  equality — Liberia  may  indeed 
be  called  the  black  man's  paradise. 

It  is  difficult  to  lay  too  great  stress  on  the  above  consideration. 
When  the  white  man  sets  his  foot  on  the  shore  of  Africa,  he 
finds  it  necessary  to  throw  off  his  former  prejudices.  For  my 
own  part,  I  have  dined  at  the  tables  of  many  colored  men  in 
Liberia,  have  entertained  them  on  shipboard,  worshipped  with 
them  at  church ;  walked,  rode,  and  associated  with  them,  as  equal 
with  equal,  if  not  as  friend  with  friend.  Were  I  to  meet  those 
men  in  my  own  town,  and  among  my  own  relatives,  I  would 
treat  them  kindly  and  hospitably,  as  they  have  treated  me.  My 
position  would  give  me  confidence  to  do  so.  But,  in  another 
city,  where  I  might  be  known  to  few,  should  I  follow  the  dictates 
of  my  head  and  heart,  and  there  treat  these  colored  men  as 
brethren  and  equals,  it  would  imply  the  exercise  of  greater 
moral  courage  than  I  have  ever  been  conscious  of  possessing. 
This  is  sad  ;  but  it  shows  forcibly  what  the  colored  race  have  to 
struggle  against  in  America,  and  how  vast  an  advantage  is 
gained  by  removing  them  to  another  soil. 

10. — Yesterday,  Governor  Roberts  gave  our  officers  a  fare 
well  dinner.  We  left  the  table  early,  made  our  adieus,  and 
were  on  our  way  down  the  river  half  an  hour  before  sunset. 
The  pilot  and  some  of  our  friends  endeavored  to  dissuade  us 
from  attempting  the  passage  of  the  bar,  pronouncing  the  surf  too 
dangerous.  Some  Kroomen  also  discouraged  us,  saying  that  the 
bar  was  "too  saucy."  With  the  fever  behind  us,  and  the  wild 
breakers  and  sharks  before,  it  was  matter  of  doubt  what  course 
to  pursue.  Anxiety  to  be  on  our  way  homeward  settled  the 


CHAP,  xx.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  165 

difficulty  ;  and  we  left  the  wharf,  to  make,  at  least,  a  trial.  A 
trial,  and  nothing  more,  it  proved ;  for,  as  we  neared  the  bar, 
it  became  evident  that  there  would  be  great  rashness  in  attempt- 
ing  to  cross.  The  surf  came  in  heavily,  and  with  the  noise  of 
thunder,  and  the  gigantic  rollers  broke  into  foam,  across  the 
whole  width  of  the  bar.  Darkness  had  fallen  around  us,  with 
the  sudden  transition  of  a  tropical  climate.  There  was  no  open 
space  visible  amid  the  foam  ;  and,  while  the  men  lay  on  their 
oars,  we  looked  anxiously  for  the  clear  water,  which  marks  the 
channel  to  the  sea.  Many  minutes  were  thus  spent,  looking 
with  all  our  eyes. 

A  council  of  war  was  held  between  the  captain  and  myself, 
in  which  we  discussed  the  probabilities  of  being  swamped  and 
eaten.  Having  once  fairly  started,  we  did  not  like  to  turn  back, 
especially  as  it  would  be  necessary  to  go  through  the  insipid 
ceremony  of  repeating  our  good-bye.  Then,  too,  the  image  of 
fever  rose  behind  us.  By  the  prohibition  of  the  Commodore, 
and  the  dictates  of  prudence,  not  an  officer  had  slept  on  shore  on 
any  part  of  the  mainland  of  the  African  coast,  during  the  whole 
period  of  our  cruise  ;  and  now,  at  the  very  last  moment,  to  be 
compelled  to  incur  the  risk,  was  almost  beyond  patience.  On 
the  other  hand,  there  was  the  foaming  surf,  and  the  ravenous 
sharks,  in  whose  maws  there  was  an  imminent  probability  of  our 
finding  accommodation,  should  we  venture  onward.  It  is  a  fate 
proper  enough  for  a  sailor,  but  which  he  may  be  excused  for 
avoiding  as  long  as  possible.  Our  council  ended,  therefore,  with 
a  determination  to  turn  back,  and  trust  to  the  tender  mercies 
o/the  fever. 

It  was  a  splendid  moonlight  night ;  one  of  those  nights  on  which 
the  natives  deem  it  impossible  to  catch  fish,  saying  that  the 
sky  has  too  many  eyes,  and  that  the  fish  will  shun  the  bait. 
The  frogs  kept  up  an  incessant  chorus,  reminding  me  of  the 
summer  evening  melodies  of  my  native  land,  yet  as  distinct 
from  those  as  are  the  human  languages  of  the  two  countries.  I 
have  observed  that  the  notes  of  frogs  are  different  in  different 
parts  of  the  world.  On  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  Arno,  it  is 
like  the  squalling  of  a  cat.  Here,  it  is  an  exact  imitation  of  the 
complaining  note  of  young  turkeys.  Unweariedly,  these  min- 


166  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xx. 

strels  made  music  in  our  ears,  until  dawn  gleamed  in  the  East, 
and  ushered  in  a  bright  and  glorious  morning.  The  birds  now 
took  the  place  of  the  frogs  in  nature's  orchestra,  and  cooed, 
peeped,  chattered,  screamed,  whistled,  and  sang,  according  to 
their  various  tastes  and  abilities.  The  trees  were  very  green, 
and  the  dew-drops  wonderfully  brilliant;  and,  amid  the  cheer 
ful  influence  of  sun-rise,  it  was  difficult  to  believe  that  we  had 
incurred  any  deadly  mischief,  by  our  night's  rest  on  the  shore 
of  Africa. 

At  a  later  period,  I  add,  that  no  bad  result  ensued,  either  to 
the  captain.,  myself,  or  the  eight  seamen,  who  were  detained 
ashore  on  the  above  occasion.  This  good  fortune  may  be  attri 
butable  to  the  care  with  which  we  guarded  ourselves  from  the 
night- air  and  the  damps;  and  besides,  we  left  the  coast  imme 
diately,  and,  after  a  brief  visit  to  Sierra  Leone,  pursued  our 
homeward  course  to  America.  On  another  occasion,  a  lieute 
nant,  a  surgeon,  and  six  men,  belonging  to  our  squadron,  wece 
detained  on  shore  at  Cape  Mount,  all  night,  after  being  capsized 
and  wet.  What  were  their  precautions,  I  am  unable  to  say; 
but,  all  the  officers  and  men  were  attacked  by  fever,  more  or 
less  severely,  and  in  one  instance  fatally.* 

And  now  we  leave  Liberia  behind  us,  with  our  best  wishes  for 
its  prosperity,  but  with  no  very  anxious  desire  to  breathe  its 
fever-laden  atmosphere  again.  There  is  enough  of  interest  on 
the  African  station ;  but  life  blazes  quickly  away,  beneath  the 
glare  of  that  torrid  sun  ;  and  one  year  of  that  climate  is  equiva 
lent  to  half  a  dozen  of  a  more  temperate  one,  in  its  effect  upon 
the  constitution.  The  voyager  returns,  with  his  sallow  visage, 
and  emaciated  form,  and  enervated  powers,  to  find  his  contem 
poraries  younger  than  himself — to  realize  that  he  has  taken  two 

*  While  revising  these  sheets  for  the  press,  the  writer  hears  of  an  exam 
ple  which  may  show  the  necessity  of  the  health-regulations  imposed  on  the 
American  squadron.  The  U.  S.  ship  Preble  ascended  the  River  Gambia  to 
the  English  settlement  of  Bathurst,  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  to  protect  the 
European  residents  against  an  apprehended  attack  of  the  natives.  Although 
the  ship  remained  but  one  or  two  days,  yet,  in  that  brief  space,  about  a  hun 
dred  cases  of  fever  occurred  on  board,  proving  fatal  to  the  master,  a  midship 
man,  and  seventeen  of  the  crew. 


CHAP,  xx.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  167 

or  three  strides  for  their  one,  towards  the  irrevocable  bourne ; 
and  has  abridged,  by  so  much,  the  season  in  which  life  is  worth 
having  for  what  may  be  accomplished,  or  for  any  zest  that  may 
be  found  in  it. 

Before  quitting  the  coast,  I  must  not  forget  that  our  cruising- 
ground  has  a  classical  claim  upon  the  imagination,  as  being  the 
very  same  over  which  Robinson  Crusoe  made  two  or  three  of  his 
voyages.  That  famous  navigator  sailed  all  along  the  African 
shore,  between  Cape  de  Verd  and  the  Equator,  trading  for  ivory, 
for  gold  dust,  and  especially  for  slaves,  with  as  little  compunc 
tion  as  Pedro  Blanco  himself.  It  is  remarkable  that  De  Foe,  a 
man  of  most  severe  and  delicate  conscience,  should  have  made 
his  hero  a  slave-dealer,  and  should  display  a  perfect  insensibility 
to  anything  culpable  in  the  traffic.  Morality  has  taken  a  great 
step  in  advance,  since  that  day  ;  or,  at  least,  it  has  thrown  a 
strong  light  on  one  spot,  with  perhaps  a  corresponding  shadow 
on  some  other.  The  next  age  may  shift  the  illumination,  and 
show  us  sins  as  great  as  that  of  the  slave-trade,  but  which  now 
enter  into  the  daily  practice  of  men  claiming  to  be  just  and 
wise. 


J68  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxi. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Sierra  Leone — Sources  of  its  Population — Appearance  of  the  Town  and  sur 
rounding  Country — Religious  Ceremonies  of  the  Mandingoes — Treatment 
of  liberated  Slaves — Police  of  Sierra  Leone — Agencies  for  Emigration  to 
the  West  Indies — Colored  Refugees  from  the  United  States — Unhealthi- 
ness  of  Sierra  Leone — Dr.  Fergusson — Splendid  Church — Melancholy 
Fate  of  a  Queen's  Chaplain— Currency — Probable  Ruin  of  the  Colony. 

October  15. — WE  arrived  off  the  point  of  Sierra  Leone,  last 
night,  and  were  piloted  up  to  the  town,  this  morning. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  important  and  interesting  places  on  the 
coast  of  Africa.     It  was  founded  in  1787,  chiefly  through  the  bene 
volent  agency  of  Mr.  Granville  Sharp,  as  a  place  of  refuge  for  a 
considerable  number  of  colored  persons,  who  had  left  their  mas 
ters,  and  were  destitute  and  unsheltered  in  the  streets  of  London. 
Five  years  later,  the  population  of  the  colony  was  recruited  by 
above  a  thousand  slaves,  who  had  fled  from  the  United  States  to 
Nova  Scotia,  during  the  American  revolution.     Again,  in  1800, 
there  was  an   addition  of  more  than  five  hundred  maroons,  or 
outlawed  negroes,  from  Jamaica.    And  finally,  since  1807,  Sierra 
Leone  has  been  the  receptacle   for  the  great  numbers  of  native 
Africans  liberated  from  slave-ships,  on  their  capture  by  British 
cruisers.     Pensioners,  with  their  families,  from  the  black  regi 
ments  in  the  West  Indies,  have  likewise  been  settled  here.     The 
population  is  now  estimated  at  about  forty-five  thousand  ;  a  much 
smaller  amount,  probably,  than  the  aggregate  of  all  the  emi 
grants  who  have  been  brought  hither.     The  colony  has  failed 
to  prosper,  but  not  through  any  lack  of  effort  on  the  part  of  Eng 
land.     It  is  the  point,  of  all  others  on  the  African  coast,  where 
British  energy,  capital,  and  life,  have  been  most  profusely  ex 
pended. 

The  aspect  of  the  Cape,  as  you  approach  it  from  the  sea,  is 
very  favorable.     You  discern  cultivated  hills,  the  white  man- 


CHAP,  xxr.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  169 

sions  of  the  wealthy,  and  thatched  cottages,  neat  and  apparently 
comfortable,  abodes  of  the  poorer  class.  Over  a  space  of  seve 
ral  miles,  the  country  appears  to  be  in  a  high  state  of  improve 
ment.  One  large  village  is  laid  out  with  the  regularity  of 
Philadelphia,  consisting  of  seven  parallel  streets,  kept  free  from 
grass,  with  thatched  huts  on  either  side,  around  which  are  small 
plots  of  ground,  full  of  bananas  and  plantain  trees.  The  town 
itself  is  a  scene  of  far  greater  activity  than  any  other  settlement 
on  the  West  Coast.  Great  numbers  of  negroes,  of  various  tribes 
and  marks,  are  to  be  seen  there.  So  mixed,  indeed,  is  the 
colored  population,  that  there  is  little  sympathy  or  sense  of  fel 
lowship  among  them.  The  Mandingoes  seem  to  be  the  most  nu 
merous,  and  are  the  most  remarkable  in  personal  appearance. 
Almost  without  exception,  they  are  very  tall  figures,  and  wear 
white  robes,  and  high  caps  without  visors. 

These  Mandingoes  hold  the  faith  of  Mahomet,  and  at  the  time 
of  our  arrival,  were  celebrating  the  feast  of  the  Ramazan. 
Several  hundreds  of  them  paraded  through  the  streets  in  a  con 
fused  mass,  occasionally  stopping  before  some  gentleman's  house, 
and  enacting  sundry  mummeries,  in  consideration  of  which 
they  expected  to  receive  a  present.  In  front  of  a  house  where 
I  happened  to  be,  the  whole  body  were  ranged  in  order ;  and 
two  of  them,  one  armed  with  a  gun,  and  the  other  with  a  bow 
and  arrow,  ran  from  end  to  end  of  the  line,  crouching  down  and 
pretending  to  be  on  the  watch  against  an  enemy.  At  intervals, 
their  companions,  or  a  portion  of  them,  raised  a  cry,  like  those 
which  one  hears  in  the  mosques  of  Asia.  The  above  seemed  to 
compose  nearly  all  the  ceremony ;  and  our  liberality  was 
in  proportion  to  the  entertainment,  consisting  merely  of  a  hand 
ful  of  coppers,  scattered  broadcast  among  the  multitude.  When 
this  magnificent  guerdon  was  thus  proffered  to  their  acceptance, 
they  forthwith  forgot  their  mummery,  and  joined  in  a  general 
scramble.  The  king,  or  chief,  now  stept  forward,  and  protested 
energetically  against  this  mode  of  distribution  ;  it  being  custo 
mary  to  consign  all  the  presents  to  him,  to  be  disposed  of  ac 
cording  to  his  better  judgment.  However,  the  mob  picked  up 
the  coppers,  and  showed  themselves  indifferently  well  contented. 

When  cargoes  of  slaves  are  brought  to  Sierra  Leone,  they 


170  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxr. 


are  placed  in  a  receptacle  called  the  Queen's  Yard,  where 
they  remain  until  the  constituted  authorities  have  passed  judg 
ment  on  the  ship.  This  seldom  requires  more  than  a  week. 
The  liberated  slaves  are  then  apprenticed  for  five,  seven,  or 
nine  years ;  the  Government  requiring  one  pound  ten  shillings 
sterling  from  the  person  who  takes  them.  Unless  applicants 
come  forward,  these  victims  of  British  philanthropy  are  turned 
adrift,  to  be  supported  as  they  may,  or,  unless  Providence  take 
all  the  better  care  of  them,  to  starve.  For  the  sick,  however, 
there  is  admittance  to  the  Government  Hospital ;  and  the  coun 
trymen  of  the  new-comers,  belonging  to  the  same  tribe,  lend 
them  such  aid  as  is  in  their  power.  Food,  consisting  principally 
of  rice,  cassadas,  and  plantains,  or  bananas,  is  extremely  cheap  ; 
insomuch  that  a  penny  a  day  will  supply  a  man  with  enough  to 
eat.  The  market  is  plentifully  supplied  with  meats,  fowls,  and 
vegetables,  and  likewise  with  other  articles,,  which  may  be  tid 
bits  to  an  African  stomach,  but  are  not  to  be  met  with  in  our  bills 
of  fare.  For  instance,  among  other  such  delicacies,  I  saw  seve 
ral  rats,  each  transfixed  with  a  wooden  skewer,  and  some  large 
bats,  looking  as  dry  as  if  they  had  given  up  the  ghost  a  month 
ago.  Supporting  themselves  on  food  of  this  kind,  it  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at,  that  the  working-classes  find  it  possible  to  live  at 
a  very  low  rate  of  labor.  The  liberated  slaves  receive  from 
four  to  six  pence,  and  the  Kroomen  nine  pence  per  diem  ;  these 
wages  constituting  their  sole  support. 

As  may  be  supposed,  so  heterogeneous  and  wild  a  population 
as  that  of  Sierra  Leone  requires  the  supervision  of  a  strict  and 
energetic  police.  Accordingly,  the  peace  is  preserved,  and 
crimes  prevented,  by  a  whole  army  of  constables,  who,  in  a 
cheap  uniform  of  blue  cotton,  with  a  white  badge  on  the  arm, 
and  a  short  club  as  their  baton  of  office,  patrol  the  streets,  day  and 
night.  Their  number  cannot  be  less  than  two  or  three  hundred. 

There  is  a  desire,  in  some  quarters,  to  destroy  the  colony  of 
Sierra  Leone ;  and  one  of  the  means  for  accomplishing  this  end 
is,  of  procuring  the  emigration  of  the  colored  colonists  to  the 
West  Indies.  For  this  purpose  there  are  three  different  agen 
cies.  One  has  over  its  door : — "  British  Guiana  Emigration 
Office ;"  another  is  for  Trinidad ;  and  a  third  for  Jamaica. 


CHAP,  xx..]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  171 

Great  promises  are  made  to  persons  proposing  to  emigrate  ;  such 
as  a  free  passage  to  the  West  Indies,  wages  of  from  seventy-five 
cents  to  a  dollar  per  day,  and  permission  to  return  when  they 
choose.  Very  few,  however,  of  those  who  have  been  long  resident 
here,  can  be  induced  to  avail  themselves  of  these  offers,  small  as 
are  the  earnings  of  labor  at  Sierra  Leone.  They  believe  that 
the  stipulations  are  not  observed  ;  that  emigrants,  on  their  arrival 
in  the  West  Indies,  will  be  called  upon  to  pay  their  passages,  and 
that  it  will  not  be  at  their  option  to  return.  In  short,  they 
suspect  emigration  to  be  only  a  more  plausible  name  for  the  slave- 
trade.  The  Kroomen  are  the  class  most  sought  for  as  emigrants, 
although  negroes  of  any  tribe  are  greedily  received.  Even  the 
Africans  just  re-captured  are  sent  off,  as  the  authorities  are 
pleased  to  term  it,  "voluntarily."  The  last  emigration,  con 
sisting  of  somewhat  less  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  persons, 
included  seventy-six  slaves,  almost  that  instant  landed  from  a 
prize.  A  respectable  merchant  assured  me,  that  these  men  were 
not  permitted  to  communicate  with  their  countrymen,  but  were 
hurried  off  to  the  vessel,  without  knowing  whither  they  were 
bound.  The  acting  governor,  Dr.  Fcrgusson,  denied  the  truth 
of  this,  although  he  admitted  that  the  seventy-six  liberated  slaves 
did  emigrate  to  the  West  Indies,  very  soon  after  landing  from 
the  prize. 

It  is  to  be  remarked,  that  the  white  inhabitants  of  Sierra 
Leone,  as  well  as  the  colored  people,  entertain  very  unfavorable 
notions  of  this  scheme  of  procuring  laborers  for  the  West  Indies. 
The  best  defence  of  it,  perhaps,  is,  that  neither  blacks  nor  whites 
can  flourish  in  this  settlement,  and  that  a  transportation  from 
its  poor  soil  and  sickly  climate,  to  any  other  region,  may  proba 
bly  be  for  the  better.  But,  undeniably,  the  British  government 
is  less  scrupulous  as  to  the  methods  of  carrying  out  its  phi 
lanthropic  projects,  than  most  other  nations  in  their  schemes  of 
self-aggrandizement. 

In  Freetown,  which  is  the  residence  of  all  the  Europeans,  are  to 
be  found  what  remains  of  the  emigrants  from  Nova  Scotia,  and 
their  descendants.  The  whole  number  transported  hither  at 
several  periods,  was  about  fifteen  hundred.  Not  more  than 
seventy  or  eighty  of  these  people,  or  their  progeny,  now  survive 


172  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxi. 


upon  the  spot.  Our  pilot  is  one  of  the  number.  He  affirms, 
that  his  countrymen  were  promised  fifty  acres  of  land,  each,  in 
Sierra  Leone,  on  condition  of  relinquishing  the  land  already  in 
their  possession  in  Nova  Scotia.  With  this  understanding  they 
emigrated  to  Africa ;  but,  in  more  than  half  a  century  which 
has  since  elapsed,  the  government  has  never  found  it  convenient 
to  fulfil  its  obligations.  Only  two  or  three  acres  have  been 
assigned  to  each  individual.  Meantime,  the  body  of  emigrants 
has  dwindled  away,  until  the  standard  six  feet  of  earth  by  two, 
the  natural  inheritance  of  every  human  being,  has  sufficed  for 
almost  all  of  them,  as  well  as  fifty,  or  five  thousand  acres  could 
have  done.  These  emigrants  were  the  colonial  slaves,  who  were 
taken  or  ran  away  from  the  United  States,  during  the  Revolu 
tionary  war.  Considered  physically  and  statistically,  their 
movement  was  anything  but  an  advantageous  one.  It  would  be 
matter  of  curious  speculation  to  inquire  into  the  relative  propor 
tions  now  alive,  of  slaves  who  remained  upon  our  southern  soil, 
and  of  these  freed  men,  together  with  the  amount  of  their  pos 
terity.  Not,  of  course,  that  it  has  been  in  any  degree  a  fair  ex 
periment  as  to  the  result  of  emancipating  and  colonizing  slaves. 
The  trial  of  that  experiment  has  been  left  to  America  ;  and  it  has 
been  commenced  in  a  manner  that  might  induce  England  to  mis 
trust  her  own  beneficence,  when  she  contrasts  Liberia  with  Sierra 
Leane. 

This  settlement  has  been  known  as  "  The  White  Man's 
Grave  ;"  and  it  is  certainly  a  beautiful  spot  for  a  grave — as  lovely 
as  one  of  those  ornamental  cemeteries,  now  so  fashionable,  and  on 
which  so  much  of  our  taste  is  lavished  ;  as  if  only  the  dead  had 
leisure  for  the  enjoyment  of  shrubbery  and  sculpture.  Sierra 
Leone,  however,  is  by  no  means  the  fatal  spot  that  it  once  was. 
Formerly,  a  governor  was  expected  to  die  every  year,  although 
a  few  held  the  reins  of  power,  and  enjoyed  the  pomp  and  dignity 
of  office,  twice  or  even  thrice  that  period.  Brave  and  excellent 
men  have  accepted  the  station,  on  this  fearful  tenure.  Among 
them  was  Colonel  Denham,  the  adventurous  traveller  in  Africa. 
Very  great  mortality  likewise  prevailed  among  the  merchants, 
military  and  civil  officers,  and  soldiers.  This  was  partly  owing 
to  the  recklessness  of  their  mode  of  life.  The  rich  were  in  tho 


CHAP,  xxi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  173 

habit  of  giving  champagne-break  fasts  at  nooi,  and  heavy  and 
luxurious  suppers  at  night.  The  continual  neighborhood  and 
near  prospect  of  death  made  them  gaily  desperate  ;  so  that  they 
grew  familiar  with  him,  and  regarded  him  almost  as  a  boon  com- 
panion.  And,  besides,  in  a  sickly  climate,  each  individual  is  con- 
fident  of  his  own  personal  immunity  against  the  disease  which, 
he  is  ready  to  allow,  may  be  fatal  to  those  around  him.  I  have 
noticed  this  absurd  hallucination  in  others,  and  been  conscious  of 
it  in  myself.  In  battle  it  is  the  same — the  bullet  is  expected  to 
strike  any  and  every  breast,  except  one's  own — and  here,  per 
haps,  is  the  great  secret  of  courage. 

Latterly,  the  Europeans  at  Sierra  Leone  practise  a  more  tern- 
perate  life.  Another  circumstance  that  has  conduced  to  render 
the  settlement  less  insalubrious,  is  the  clearing  of  lands  in 
the  vicinity,  and  conversion  of  the  rank  jungle  into  cultivated 
fields.  The  good  effect  of  this  change  will  be  readily  appreci 
ated  by  those  who  have  noticed  the  improved  health  of  our  \\ "••<•- 
ern  settlers,  as  the  forest  falls  before  the  axe ;  or  who  have  seen 
the  difference  between  the  inhabitants  of  old  and  new  lands,  in 
any  country. 

It  is  said,  by  the  old  residents  here,  that  they  do  not  find  it  very 
sickly,  except  once  in  seven  years,  when  an  epidemic  rages,  and 
carries  off  many  settlers.  This  has  happened  regularly  since 
1823,  until  the  present  year,  when,  in  the  proper  order  of  things, 
the  angel  of  death  should  have  re-appeared.  Several  persons 
provided  for  their  safety  by  quitting  the  place  ;  and  others  made 
their  arrangement  to  retreat,  on  the  first  symptoms  of  danger. 
But  the  year,  thus  far,  seems  to  have  been  distinguished  by  no 
peculiar  mortality. 

Life,  in  a  climate  like  this,  must  generally  be  much  more  brief 
than  in  temperate  regions,  even  if  it  do  not  yield  at  once  to  the 
violence  of  disease.  Yet  there  are  circumstances  of  Europeans 
attaining  a  good  and  green  old  age  at  Sierra  Leone.  Mr.  Hor- 
nell,  a  Scotch  merchant  of  great  wealth  and  probity — which 
latter  virtue  is  rare  enough,  in  this  quarter,  to  deserve  special 
mention — has  resided  here  fifteen  years,  and  twenty-seven  years 
in  the  West  Indies.  He  lives  regularly,  but  generously  imbib- 


174  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxi. 

ing  ale,  and  brandy-and-water,  in  moderate  quantities,  every  day 
of  his  life. 

The  governor,  Colonel  George  Macdonald,  is  now  absent  in 
England.  In  the  interim,  the  duties  of  the  office  are  performed 
by  Dr.  Fergusson,  a  mulatto  in  color,  but  born  in  Scotland,  and 
married  to  a  white  lady,  who  now  resides  in  that  country.  Dr. 
Fergusson  was  regularly  educated  at  Edinburgh,  and  is  a  medi 
cal  officer  of  the  British  army ;  a  man  of  noble  and  command- 
ing  figure,  handsome  and  intellectual  countenance,  and  finished 
manners.  He  is  affable,  as  well  as  dignified,  in  his  deportment, 
and  fluent  and  interesting  in  conversation.  To  him,  and  five  or 
six  other  men  of  color,  whom  I  have  met  on  the  coast,  I  should 
refer,  as  proofs  that  individuals  of  the  African  race  may,  with 
due  advantages,  be  cultivated  and  refined  so  as  to  compare  with 
the  best  specimens  of  white  gentlemen. 

There  is  a  large  church  here,  said  to  have  cost  seventy  thou 
sand  pounds  sterling  ;  notwithstanding  which  vast  expenditure, 
divine  service  has  ceased  to  be  performed.  The  last  clergyman, 
a  young  man  universally  beloved  and  respected,  lost  his  life, 
two  or  three  years  ago.  He  had  gone  with  a  party  of  friends, 
five  in  all,  on  board  a  homeward-bound  vessel,  which  lay  at  a 
short  distance  from  the  shore.  On  their  return  the  boat  cap 
sized  and  sunk.  The  five  Kroomen  saved  themselves,  by  swim 
ming,  until  picked  up  by  a  canoe  ;  the  five  whites  were  lost ; 
and  the  young  clergyman  among  them.  The  latter  swam  well, 
and  was  almost  within  reach  of  a  canoe,  when  he  threw  up  his 
hands,  exclaiming,  "  God  have  mercy  on  me  !" — and  disappear 
ed.  A  shark  had  undoubtedly  seized  him,  at  the  moment  when 
he  believed  himself  safe.  This  gentleman  held  the  office  of 
Queen's  Chaplain ;  and  since  his  melancholy  fate,  no  new  ap 
pointment  of  that  nature  has  been  made.  If  credit  be  due  to 
the  statements  reciprocally  made  by  the  colonists,  in  reference 
to  one  another,  there  is  great  need  of  teachers  to  inculcate  the 
principles  of  religion,  morality,  and  brotherly  love  ;  although 
the  spiritual  instruction  heretofore  bestowed  (which  has  cost 
large  sums  to  the  pious  in  England)  has  been  almost  entirely 
thrown  away.  There  are  some  missionaries  here,  who  have 
directed  their  labors  principally  to  the  business  of  education. 


CHAP,  xxi.]  .    AFRICAN  CRUISER.  175 


The  tide  runs  so  strongly,  into  and  out  of  the  river,  that  such 
accidents  as  that  which  befell  the  five  Europeans,  above-men 
tioned,  are  of  no  unfrequent  occurrence.  When  boats  or  canoes 
are  upset,  it  is  impossible  for  the  passengers  to  swim  against  the 
current.  We  had  an  instance  of  the  danger,  while  at  anchor 
there.  The  captain  was  seated  in  his  cabin,  with  the  stern 
windows  open,  when  he  heard  a  native  in  a  canoe,  under  the 
stern,  say  "  Man  drown  !"  Being  asked  what  he  meant,  he  re 
iterated  the  words,  pointing  towards  the  sea.  Just  then,  a  cry 
was  indistinctly  heard.  Two  of  our  boats  were  instantly  des 
patched,  and  picked  up  three  Kroomen,  whose  canoe  had  sunk, 
leaving  them  to  the  mercy  of  the-  current,  which  was  rapidly 
drifting  them  towards  the  ocean.  The  Humane  Society  of 
Sierra  Leone  bestows  a  reward  for  every  person  rescued  from 
drowning.  In  this  instance,  of  course,  no  claim  was  made  upon 
their  funds. 

The  currency  here  differs  from  that  of  all  the  other  settle 
ments  on  the  coast,  except  those  belonging  to  Great  Britain. 
The  Spanish  and  South  American  doubloons  are  valued  at  only 
sixty-four  shillings  sterling  each,  or  fifteen  dollars  and  thirty-six 
cents  ;  while  they  are  worth  elsewhere,  sixteen  dollars.  Spanish 
and  South  American  dollars  pass  at  about  one  per  cent,  discount. 
The  English  sovereign  is  reckoned  at  four  dollars  eighty  cents  ; 
and  the  French  five-franc  piece  at  ninety-two  cents.  The  gold 
and  silver  coin  of  the  United  States  is  not  current  at  Sierra 
Leone.  Bills  on  London,  at  thirty  days  sight,  are  worth  from  par  to 
five  per  cent,  premium,  and  may  actually  be  sold  in  small  sums 
(say,  from  £100  to  £2000)  at  fair  rates. 

Pilotage  is  five  shillings  sterling  per  foot ;  and  the  port-charges 
are  so  exorbitant  as  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  many  vessels, 
which  would  otherwise  stop  to  try  the  market.  Of  late  years, 
the  trade  of  Sierra  Leone  has  suffered  great  diminution.  Money 
having  been  lost  on  all  the  timber  exported,  that  business  is  at 
present  nearly  abandoned.  Another  cause  of  decay  is  the  with 
drawal  of  the  British  squadron,  which  has  now  its  principal  ren 
dezvous  at  Ascension.  More  than  all,  as  contributing  to  the 
decline  of  the  colony,  the  home-government  has  discontinued  the 
greater  part  of  the  assistance  formerly  rendered.  The  governor, 


176  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxi. 

colonial  secretary,  anfl  chief  justice,  are  believed  to  be  all  the 
civil  officers  who  now  draw  their  salaries  from  England.  The 
military  force  consists  of  a  captain,  five  or  six  subalterns,  and 
probably  two  or  three  hundred  soldiers.  In  consequence  of  the 
failure  of  support  from  the  mother-country,  the  colony  has  im 
posed  higher  duties  upon  certain  articles,  in  order  to  try  the 
experiment  of  raising  a  revenue  from  their  own  resources.  The 
most  sagacious  and  best  informed  residents  predict  that  the  re 
sult  aimed  at  will  not  follow,  and  that  three  or  four  years  will 
suffice  to  render  the  colony  of  Sierra  Leone  bankrupt. 


CHAP,  xxii.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  177 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Failure  of  the  American  Squadron  to  capture  Slave- Vessels — Causes  of  that 
Failure — Hi^h  character  of  the  Commodore  and  Commanders — Similar 
ill-success  of  the  French  Squadron — Success  of  the  English,  and  why — 
Results  effected  by  the  American  Squadron. 

IT  will  not  have  escaped  the  reader's  notice,  that  the  foregoing 
journal  of  our  cruise  records  not  the  capture  of  a  single  slave- 
vessel,  either  by  our  own  ship  or  any  other  belonging  to  the 
American  squadron.  Such  is  the  fact,  and  such  it  must  inevi 
tably  be,  so  long  as  the  circumstances,  which  prevented  our 
efficiency  in  that  respect,  shall  continue  to  exist.  The  doctrines 
relative  to  the  right  of  search,  held  by  our  Government  and  cor 
dially  sanctioned  by  the  people,  declare  that  the  cruisers  of  no 
foreign  nation  have  a  right  to  search,  visit,  or  in  any  way  de 
tain  an  American  vessel  on  the  high  seas.  Denying  the  privi 
lege  to  others,  we  must  of  course  allow  the  same  inviolability  to 
a  foreign  flag,  as  we  assert  for  that  of  our  own  country.  Hence, 
our  national  ships  can  detain  or  examine  none  but  American 
vessels,  or  those  which  they  find  sailing  under  the  American  flag. 
But  no  slave-vessel  would  display  this  flag.  The  laws  of  the 
United  States  declare  the  slave-trade,  if  exercised  by  any  of  its 
citizens,  to  be  piracy,  and  punishable  with  death ;  the  laws  of 
Spain,  Portugal  and  Brazil,  are  believed  to  be  different,  or,  at 
least,  if  they  threaten  the  same  penalty,  arc  certain  never  to 
inflict  it.  Consequently,  all  slaves  will  be  careful  to  sail  under 
the  flag  of  one  of  these  latter  nations,  and  thus  avoid  the  danger 
of  losing  life  as  well  as  property,  in  the  event  of  capture. 

Undoubtedly,  many  American  vessels  have  been  sold  to  fo 
reigners,  by  unprincipled  citizens  of  our  country,  with  a  belief 
or  full  understanding  that  they  were  to  be  employed  in  this  ne 
farious  trade.  In  some  instances,  such  vessels  have  been  sold, 
with  stipulations  in  the  contract,  binding  the  seller  to  deliver 
13 


1*78  JOURNAL  OF  AN  [CHAP.  xxu. 

them  at  slave-stations  on  the  coast  of  Africa;  they  have  been 
sent  out  to  those  stations  under  American  colors,  and  commanded 
by  American  captains ;  and  there,  being  transferred  to  new 
masters,  they  have  immediately  taken  on  board  their  cargoes  of 
•  human  flesh.  But  how  is  an  American  cruiser  to  take  hold  of 
a  vessel  so  circumstanced  ?  On  her  departure  from  the  United 
States,  and  until  the  transfer  takes  place,  she  is  provided  with 
regular  papers,  and  probably  sails  for  her  destined  port  with  a 
cargo  which  may  be  used  in  lawful,  as  well  as  unlawful  trade. 
After  the  transfer,  she  appears  under  foreign  colors,  is  furnished 
with  foreign  papers,  commanded  by  a  foreign  master,  and  man 
ned  by  a  foreign  crew.  It  is  not  to  be  presumed  that  this  change 
of  nationality  will  be  effected  in  presence  of  one  of  our  men-of- 
war.  How  then  can  such  a  vessel  be  taken  or  molested,  so  long 
as  the  present  treaties  and  laws  continue  in  force  ? 

It  is  well  that  the  public  should  be  prepared  for  an  ineffi 
ciency  which  can  hardly  fail  to  continue ;  and,  in  justice  to  the 
American  squadron,  it  should  be  imputed  to  the  true  cause,  and 
not  to  any  lack  of  energy  or  good-will  on  the  part  of  the  officers. 
Whatever  be  their  .zeal  (and  hitherto  they  have  been  active  and 
indefatigable),  it  is  almost  certain  that  their  efforts  will  not  be 
crowned  with  success,  in  the  capture  of  a  single  prize.  The 
Commodore,  under  whose  general  direction  we  have  acted,  is 
a  gentleman  of  the  highest  professional  character,  persevering, 
sagacious,  and  determined,  and  well  known  as  such,  both  in  and 
out  of  the  service.  The  commanders  of  the  different  vessels 
were  likewise  men  of  elevated  character,  zealous  in  performing 
their  duty,  and  honorably  ambitious  of  distinction.  If  the  in- 
centive  of  gain  be  reckoned  stronger  than  considerations  of  duty 
and  honor,  it  was  not  wanting  ;  for,  besides  half  the  value  of  the 
vessel,  each  liberated  slave  would  have  been  worth  twenty-five 
dollars  to  the  captors — a  handsome  amount  of  prize-money,  in  a 
cargo  of  six  or  eight  hundred. 

The  French,  like  ourselves,  having  no  reciprocal  treaties  with 
Spain,  Portugal,  and  Brazil,  are  equally  unsuccessful  in  making 
prizes.  Eleven  of  their  vessels  of  war  were  stationed  on  the 
coast,  during  the  period  of  our  cruise,  but  effected  not  a  single 
capture.  England,  by  virtue  of  her  treaties  with  the  three  na- 


CHAP,  xxi.]  AFRICAN  CRUISER.  179 

lions  above  mentioned,  empowers  her  cruisers  to  take  slave-ves 
sels  under  either  of  their  flags.  Hence  the  success  of  the  Eng 
lish  commanders  ;  a  success  which  is  sometimes  tauntingly  held 
up,  in  contrast  with  what  is  most  unjustly  termed  the  sluggish 
ness  of  our  own  squadron. 

Still,  the  presence  of  American  national  vessels,  on  the  coast 
»>f  Africa,  has  not  been  unattended  with  results  that  may  partly 
compensate  for  tin-  sarrilice  of  human  life  and  health,  which  the 
climate  renders  inevitable.  The  trade  of  the  United  States  has 
been  protected.  The  natives  have  been  taught,  that  the  hum- 
blest  American  merchant- vessel  sails  under  the  shadow  of  a  flag, 
which  guarantees  security  to  everything  that  it  covers.  The 
colonies  of  Liberia  have  been  made  more  respectable  in  the  eyes 
of  the  barbarian  nations  that  surround  them.  This  latter  ad 
vantage  it  is  creditable  to  our  country  to  bestow ;  for  the  United 
States  demand  from  Liberia  no  commercial  exemptions,  nor  any 
thing  in  return  for  the  countenance  which  she  lends  to  that  grow 
ing  commonwealth.  Never  before,  perhaps,  did  a  colony  exist, 
so  entirely  free  from  vexatious  interference  on  the  part  of  the 
mother-country,  and  so  carefully  fostered  by  tho  benevolence 
that  planted  it.  Slight  as  is  the  present  political  connection  be 
tween  the  United  States  and  Liberia,  the  latest  advices  inform 
us  that  it  is  in  contemplation  to  sever  the  silken  thread.  The 
Colonization  Society,  I  understand,  is  discussing  the  expediency 
of  relinquishing  its  further  control  over  the  government,  and 
allowing  the  infant  colony  to  take  a  place  among  independent 
nations.  Should  this  event  come  to  pass,  and  Lib'eria  either  find 
the  protection  of  another  maritime  power,  or  prove  adequate  to 
protect  herself,  there  will  be  one  reason  the  less  for  sending  a 
squadron  of  gallant  ships  to  chase  shadows  in  a  deadly  climate. 


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